Semi-novice Gardener – Raised Bed Vegetable Garden Adventure (vol. 4)

Here’s update #4 on my raised bed garden efforts this year. While we are enjoying eating our vegetables, some other creatures are as well. As our summer crops are winding down, we are starting some light fall vegetable crops, and planning to prepare the other beds for the winter.

Critters are back

Last time, we had corn coming up in one bed. It looked like we’d eventually have little corn cobs to pick, but soon after we took the picture below, something came in and ate the entire crop!

The same night our green bean crop, which was providing lots of beans for our dinners, was eaten as well.

That’s pretty much the end of both crops. We got a lot out of our green beans, so that was not a big loss, but we are sad that we didn’t get to see what the corn was like eventually.

Since we think our short fence is pretty solid, we are assuming this was deer coming in to eat the crops. Next year, better deer protection is definitely on the menu. We’ll look into either floating row cover or building a bigger fence to keep out the deer.

Interesting insects

This doesn’t have much to do with our vegetables, but we have a potted butterfly milkweed plant placed just inside the fencing, and it was a host to a bunch of insect activity.

We found a couple big, juicy monarch caterpillars hanging out munching on its leaves, and at the same time, a whole crew of orange aphids were sucking sap out of the stem. A few days later, all the leaves were gone off the plant.

We began to have to check our green beans for caterpillars. We’d occasionally find these little guys or their holes in the beans. We think it is a young armyworm caterpillar. The problem wasn’t enough to do anything about — just an entertaining mention.

Caterpillar eating my green bean
Caterpillar eating my green bean!

In this action-packed scene below, we have a tomato hornworm hanging out on my tomato plant while being a parasitized host for Braconid wasps, while a tomato fruitworm lounges above with a fly on top of it.

a tomato hornworm hanging out on my tomato plant while being a parasitized host for Braconid wasps, while a tomato fruitworm lounges above with a fly on top of it.

Powdery mildew and insect stippling on our ornamentals

Our zinnia and marigolds got these white spots all over. At first, I suspected this was powdery mildew on both due to their close proximity and both symptoms appearing white. However, my trusty, knowledgeable editors commented while reviewing this post that the issue on the marigolds was likely feeding damage from insects, but we don’t know what insects.  As a reminder; you too can tap the knowledge of HGIC certified professional horticulturists via our free Ask an Expert service.  Send in your questions!

The powdery mildew hasn’t transferred to the vegetable crops around them, so we haven’t been too concerned about it. The HGIC article on powdery mildew mentions that overcrowding of plants can create good conditions for mildew to grow due to the limited airflow. Our beds are definitely overcrowded. We’ll be spacing things out next year, and likely putting our ornamental pollinator attractors in pots outside of the raised beds.

Tomato trimming

Overgrown tomato plants
Overgrown tomato plants

We have been really learning that tomatoes are a crop that needs quite a bit of attending to. I should have been pruning suckers maybe every other day. The vines kept growing and growing, covering other plants and laying on the ground. Interior vegetation started browning and maybe getting moldy due to lack of airflow. There were green tomatoes growing, but it took them a while to ripen and be ready. I suspect my lack of pruning allowed the plant to use its energy to grow more vines rather than developing tasty tomatoes.

A few tomatoes on our orange tomato plant were on the vine for a LONG time and developed odd bulging characteristics.

I went hard trimming both plants; cutting off a lot of branches that didn’t have fruit on them, or were growing on the ground. Fruit has seemed to come in faster and more plentiful since, but I need to keep pruning! This is easier and less traumatic for the plant (I would assume) if I just picked those little suckers early.

As the season wears on, more and more of our tomatoes are getting cracking, but the fruits are mostly good to eat. The HGIC page says that this could be caused by excessive fertilizer, but we haven’t added anything to the soil. It mentions irregular watering could do it, and I suspect that may be the culprit. My wife and I have been in a perpetual, “Hey, you’ve been watering the garden these last few days, right?” “Uh, no, I thought you were” cycle recently. We’ll need to keep vigilant with our chores!

Tomato cracking
Tomato cracking

The future of this garden

So what’s next? We’ll see how long our tomatoes keep producing. Krysten planted a couple kale seeds and winter squash seeds that are coming up. We don’t have a grand plan for these, but we’ll see how they do.

For the rest of the beds, we will likely pull the leftover ornamentals and the tomatoes once done, and plant crimson clover cover crop. Cover crops lessen soil erosion during the winter, add organic material when turned under in the spring, improve soil quality, and add valuable nutrients. In the spring, we just mow it (in our case, in the raised beds, we will string trim it) to kill it, then later turn it over into the soil.

View previous updates

Dan Adler
HGIC Web and Communications Manager

‘Costata Romanesco’: A zucchini that will make you smile

If you like zucchini, I think you’ll love ‘Costata Romanesco.’ If you don’t like zucchini, please keep reading. It may change your life.

I became acquainted with this extraordinary summer squash many years ago, and it’s the only zucchini I plant each year. Will Bonsall, well-known Maine seed-saver, and farming/gardening guru reportedly mused that it’s “the only summer squash worth bothering with, unless you’re just thirsty.” Although its Italian name is beautiful, I will refer to it as CR to save space.

Large zucchini flower
‘Costata Romanesco’ flowers are large and can remain attached for some time.
Two zucchinis
Late-season ‘Costata Romanesco’ fruits.

CR is a stunner with alternating dark green and light green stripes with white flecking, like ‘Cocozelle’ and some other Italian varieties. “Costata” means rib in Italian. Fruits develop 8-10 prominent ribs which give cross-cut slices a unique and fun look. It has a dry, meaty texture, not unlike eggplant, that holds up when sauteed, baked, broiled, steamed, or grilled. It has a distinctive flavor described as sweet, nutty, and earthy. In addition to shredding it for cakes and breads I find it makes the best zucchini fritters (see recipe below). This year, I’m freezing loads of shredded CR.

Grate, bag, and freeze extra-large zucchini fruits.
Grate, bag, and freeze extra-large zucchini fruits.

Tips for getting the most from CR:

  • This is a large plant that can easily fill a 4 ft. x 4 ft. space. Some of the sprawling stems will flop to the ground where they will root, even through an organic mulch. These additional stems increase fruiting and allow the plant to survive a squash vine borer infestation in the main stem.
Crowded garden
‘Costata Romanesco’ plants need elbow room.
Roots from a zucchini plant stem that grew into the soil.
Roots from a zucchini plant stem that grew into the soil.
  • Try planting in mid-June to avoid cucumber beetles and squash bugs. That strategy has worked for me if you also delay planting of cucumber and melon.
  • CR produces large, sturdy male flowers if you are into stuffed blossoms. Even when the fruits get overly big, 12-16 inches long and 3-4 inches in diameter, they remain tender. Larger fruits can be shredded.
  • A variety of bees cross-pollinate the flowers, especially squash bees and bumblebees. Plant annuals and perennials to feed bees through the growing season. Interestingly, one small Cornell University study in 2013 showed that CR was somewhat parthenocarpic (produces fruits without cross-pollination). Of 19 bagged CR flowers in the research study, 58% set marketable fruit without bee pollination.

Saving seeds:

  • CR is open-pollinated. With a little bit of planning seed saved this year will produce an identical crop next year (unlike hybrid cultivars).
  • Avoid cross-pollination with non-CR pollen by not growing any other members of Cucurbita pepo, a species that includes yellow summer, acorn, scallop, and spaghetti squash and most pumpkins. Cross-pollination may still occur if these squashes and pumpkins are growing in neighboring gardens.
  • Or, you can hand-pollinate female flowers.
  • If possible, save seed from multiple fruits and multiple plants. Harvest fruits when they become very large with a hardened rind that starts to turn yellow. Allow seeds to mature inside fruits for 3-4 weeks. Cut fruits open and remove, clean, and air-dry seed at room temperature. Store seeds in a sealed container in a cool, dry location. They will remain viable for 5-6 years.
Zucchini cut in half
Seeds being saved for 2021.

Zucchini fritter recipe

2 lbs. shredded zucchini

1 medium onion finely chopped (can substitute scallions)

2 eggs

1 cup panko

2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. black pepper

1 ½ tsp. turmeric

1 ½ tsp. paprika

Shred the zucchini and either squeeze out excess water by hand or allow it to drain in a colander.

Mix all ingredients and shape into patties. Fry in vegetable oil until brown on both sides. Makes 15 fritters. Serve with plain yogurt.

By Jon Traunfeld, Extension Specialist. Read more posts by Jon.

Help! Too much food!

Early September in the vegetable garden can be a time of late summer bounty when the cooling breezes of fall energize you into completing the season’s work with a heart full of joy and purpose. Or, perhaps more likely, your garden may be an overgrown fungal jungle full of humid air, rotten tomatoes, and waist-high weeds. (I hope that’s not just me. I only looked away for a second, I swear.)

But even if you’re organized and tidy, you may have experienced the dreaded glut. Just too many, of whatever it is. Zucchini, beans and tomatoes are the usual culprits, but you might also have overdone it on the peppers or the eggplant. You may manage to harvest everything, only to have no idea what to do with all of it once it reaches the kitchen. Or it may never find its way out of your garden to begin with. What to do?

Just some of the tomatoes awaiting my attention today. I roast and freeze what I can’t eat fresh.
Continue reading

Semi-novice Gardener – Raised Bed Vegetable Garden Adventure (vol. 3)

Hi all!  It’s time for check-in #3 on my summer gardening efforts.  Overall, things are going well, but there have been big ups and downs.

The new raised bed we built is doing well.  Krysten planted corn in the center one, and a couple cucumber seedlings in the rightmost one.  The cucumbers have been slow to develop and grow.  I think this is because of the extreme heat.  In the last week or two, one’s growth has accelerated and it’s finally growing one nice cucumber.  I may harvest it and slice it up to use as an ingredient in a nice summer cocktail drink tonight (It’s Friday as I write this draft!). Do a web search for “porch swing” cocktail recipes.

Since we got the fencing up that encloses the whole space, we have had 0 evidence of animals munching our crops!  Huzzah!  However, we DID see one deer in our yard and it was eating our hostas elsewhere on our property (and has continued to; the hostas are mostly gone now).  So, we DO have deer, but they haven’t been interested in our vegetables (yet).  I wonder if they don’t like walking on the gravel we have down?

Tomatoes

We have been harvesting a lot of tomatoes! One of our plants grew very large and tall and ended up flopping over the tomato cages we built in the last update.  We needed something taller!  We were worried that the tropical storm in the first week of August was about to topple the biggest one completely, so we hurriedly built an extension.  We found some scrap wood in the garage, attached it vertically to the sides of the raised bed, and strung twine around nails in the boards back and forth from board to board.  This seems to hold it up well and while the tropical storm wasn’t too bad here, there was no damage afterward.  We need to do the same for our second largest one this weekend.

Taller tomato support
Taller tomato support

The early blight issue I spoke about in the last update has seemed to be controlled by pruning more heavily and keeping air flowing.  However, our smaller tomato plant has been slow to fruit and has some holes/spots on the leaves.  After perusing the HGIC site, my guess was that it was Septoria leaf spot which is a fungal disease, however as a couple knowledgeable HGIC coworkers proof-read this post, they said it was actually most likely from flea beetles. It may sound like I’ve got the inside connection with experts, but everyone can send in questions to our Certified Professional Horticulturists for help like this!

Septoria leaf spot on my tomato plant
Flea beetle damage on my tomato plant

There are prevention and control directions on the HGIC page for flea beetles, but since the damage isn’t large at the moment, I think we’ll leave it as-is now, and plan to clean up and remove garden debris to reduce overwintering sites for the beetles when we wind down the growing season this year.

Overall though, we’ve been harvesting more tomatoes than we know what to do with, so we’re happy with our tomato efforts here! I’m considering making a whole lot of sauce.

Tomato harvest
Tomato harvest

Squash and zucchini

In the last update, I mentioned I suspected squash vine borer larvae to be killing my zucchini plant from the inside.  I did the surgery and discovered I was right.

Squash vine borer larvae in zucchini plant
See the white larvae in the center, lower third of the image?

I remember reading on the HGIC site at some point that in general with cucurbits, you can cover parts of the plant that grow above the soil with soil, and they will begin to root.  I cut the plant to disconnect the borer-infested segment (which was pretty much down into the roots) from the good parts.  I ripped out the roots and infested stuff, then planted the remaining stuff back in, mounding soil over it.

For a few weeks, things seemed promising.  Most of the large leaves did not make it, but some younger and new leaf sprouts were growing strong, and a small fruit started growing.  This suggested to me that after some time, we’d likely have this zucchini plant back from the dead and producing again.  However, that little fruit died and rotted, and the leaves and stems suddenly showed damage.

Our squash had been doing great.  It kept producing great fruit at a rapid pace, and kept expanding.  It was healthy; not showing damage from squash vine borers or cucumber beetles like the zucchini had.  It expanded outside of the raised bed and sometimes those leaves would appear wilted.  We assumed it was because of the extra heat from the gravel and the hot sun.

All was going well until a few days ago – it began wilting everywhere and wasn’t recovering.  Fruit production stopped.  We took a closer look, and we’re seeing the same squash vine borer type damage we saw with the zucchini!  Noooo!  It looked pervasive.  I wasn’t about to do more larvae extraction (it was gross, and squash isn’t my favorite vegetable).

So, we called it on both the zucchini and the squash plants.  2:35 pm, Friday, August 10th, 2020.  We ripped them out and tossed them far from the garden.  We’re making space for some sort of cooler season crops (the planning hasn’t started yet).

Next year, we are absolutely taking the following prevention steps (taken from the HGIC page on squash vine borers):

  • To prevent egg-laying, wrap a collar of aluminum foil around lower stems or dust or spray lower stems with spinosad or pyrethrum.
  • Cover plants with floating row cover until flowering.
  • Plant early to lessen injury. Use transplants instead of seeds. Or, plant squash seed mid-June.
  • Butternut and cushaw are resistant; yellow crookneck less susceptible than zucchini.

Green beans

We’ve been harvesting a few green beans from the mature plants that survived the rodent massacres that happened before we got the fence up, but it wasn’t enough to make a meal out of.  Several weeks ago, I planted more seeds to replace the eaten ones and those have grown and should be fruiting soon.  I hope that we can have some dinners with roasted green beans soon; they are my favorite of our garden veggies after tomatoes (and since tomatoes are fruit, I could say that green beans are my favorite veggies).

The zinnia we planted in the center of the green beans has gotten large and is crowding them.  We will likely try to tie it up to keep it more vertical than horizontal.

There are a couple bean leaves with holes munched out of them from some insect, but nothing to be too concerned about yet.

Moving forward

We’re still having fun with the garden.  It’s great to be done building for the most part.  Krysten has been adding a few pots on the outskirts with flowers in them which makes the space look nice.  I think in the next season, we’ll probably add more flowers in pots and save the beds for the vegetables.  The flowers have overcrowded vegetables in some instances in the raised beds, and we should be able to attract pollinators close enough to the vegetables via potted flowers.

I’m looking forward to more tomatoes and our first meal with green beans.  Perhaps in the next update, I may present our plan for cool-season crops.

View previous updates:

Dan Adler
HGIC Web and Communications Manager

Food gardening in summer heat

“Hot enough for you?”

That used to be a summer joke, right? I haven’t heard it in a while. We all know it’s way too hot out there. This time of year, with the heat and humidity and bugs and weeds, it’s a challenge even to step into the garden and do what needs to be done. But if we ignore our garden tasks they just get more overwhelming. I’m overwhelmed myself, but let me try to give you a few hints on making summer in the vegetable garden more bearable.

IMG_6826
Even plants like eggplant that like the heat can fail to form flowers or fruits when it gets really hot. A little afternoon shade helps.

Continue reading

Semi-novice Gardener – Raised Bed Vegetable Garden Adventure (vol. 2)

I’m back with a big update on our raised bed vegetable garden efforts!  It’s been eventful: wildlife has eaten some of the plants, we built a whole new raised bed from scratch, and we’ve begun harvesting some of our first crops.

Tomatoes need support!

Our three tomato plants have been growing up well.  We procrastinated on adding support because I wanted a better solution than those flimsy conical wire doodads you can buy at the hardware store.  I eventually located some old lengths of wire fencing and just set them around each plant in a cylindrical shape and then attached them to a single metal garden stake to keep them steady.  I criss-crossed some twine back and forth which will give the tomatoes something more to grab onto and keep the support from bending outward.

Somebody is munching my plants!

Wildlife and insects have been having a feast on our garden, unfortunately. Continue reading

New Vegetable Gardeners Face Old Problems

“What’s that bug doing on my bean plants”? “Should I be worried by these droopy leaves”? “Help – the lower leaves on my container tomato plants are turning yellow. What should I do?”

HGIC is receiving many questions from first-time vegetable gardeners this year through our Ask Extension service. It’s great to see more people growing some of their own food! We are trying to address specific concerns and help people learn how to prevent problems and garden sustainably and lovingly on Planet Earth. Our food gardens can be peaceful and restorative spaces and exciting laboratories where problems can be learning experiences.

Here are some of the major concerns of new vegetable gardeners:

Plants just don’t get big and healthy

The first step in IPM (integrated pest management) is to know and meet the needs of your plants. Healthy, resilient plants are better able to withstand pests, diseases, and challenging weather. When plants look weak, under-sized, and stressed we need to ask some basic questions: Is it the right plant for our climate? Does it get enough sunlight, and does it have enough room to grow? Is the container too small? Was it planted at the right time? Is the plant getting enough water and nutrients?

Cauliflower with spotty leaves
Cauliflower is a challenging spring crop. It’s early July and these plants are too
small and too late to produce heads. Close spacing, inadequate nutrients, and a disease
(black rot) are possible causes.

No fruits from summer squash and cucumber plants

Many gardeners are frustrated by plants that aren’t producing many (or any) fruits. This family of plants requires cross-pollination. Pollinating insects must move pollen from male to female flowers multiple times before a full-size fruit will form. Most of the first flowers are male flowers and when female flowers do appear (they can be identified by the small, undeveloped fruit below the flower) they may drop off. Small fruits may also dry up and drop off. This is caused by incomplete flower pollination or fertilization of the tiny undeveloped seeds (ovules), caused by low pollinator activity or heat stress. If the plants are healthy you will start to see more fruits as the season progresses. In the meantime, you can try hand-pollinating individual female flowers using a small, soft paintbrush or the male flower itself. There are many online videos to show you the way.

Male squash flowers
Male squash flowers on long slender stems (pedicels) may outnumber female flowers 10:1.

Spots, marks, blotches on leaves

Plant leaves do not need to be perfect to be healthy. Some leaf spots are indeed symptoms of a disease, insect or mite pest, and some of these can injure and kill plants. However, many leaf imperfections are not a cause for alarm. They may be caused by minor insect feeding, environmental conditions, and even misuse of fertilizers and pesticides.

Plant burn on leaves
No disease here. This is phytotoxicity (plant burn) from spraying a home-made liquid detergent solution on bean plants.

Wilting leaves and stems

Plant leaves and stems that begin to go limp are a serious concern. A lack of moisture is the most common cause, especially for container vegetables or gardens planted in sandy soil. Root damage from cultivation, insect feeding, diseases, and waterlogged soil can also cause wilting symptoms. It’s important to quickly figure out why a plant is wilting.

Cucumber leaves wilting
Cucumber leaves wilting from bacterial wilt disease spread by cucumber beetles. Plants recover at night, but the wilting symptom progresses and kills them.

Distinguishing major and minor insect pests

Hundreds of different insect species will visit your garden each year. Some are beneficial to gardeners, many are innocuous, a few are minor pests, and a very small number are serious pests. They are all fascinating and interesting to observe! Close monitoring of plants, including leaf undersides, will help you detect and manage the serious insect and mite pests:

These are examples of three relatively minor pests in vegetable gardens:

An Oriental beetle adult visiting an okra leaf
An Oriental beetle adult visiting an okra leaf

adult golden tortoise beetle
An adult golden tortoise beetle with fecal shield to ward off predators. This minor feeding injury on tomato, sweet potato, and other plants can be ignored.

Pigweed flea beetles (that resemble cucumber beetles) on leafy amaranth.
Pigweed flea beetles (that resemble cucumber beetles) on leafy amaranth. Plants continue to grow and remain healthy.

When to cut your losses?

Every growing season you will probably have some crops that fail for a variety of reasons. Your garden will be more productive if you learn when it makes sense to pull out ailing plants and re-plant the area. Of course, figuring out what caused the plants to fail is the key to preventing the same problem next year.

Cucumber leaf with holes
This level of cucumber beetle (major pest) feeding can significantly weaken plants. If all the leaves look like this or worse and fruit production is reduced, it’s time to yank out and compost plants.

Tips for dealing with plant diseases

Many bacterial, fungal, and viral diseases attack vegetable crops in Maryland home gardens. Most of them can be managed without significant yield loss and in very few cases is spraying a fungicide recommended.

Foliar diseases can vary in severity from season to season according to rainfall and temperature. Regular plant inspection, especially on lower and inner leaves, will alert you to problems. Foliar diseases are progressive- they begin as small spots on a few leaves. Lesions grow and coalesce and may cause leaves to yellow and die. Identify problems early on to determine the cause of the problem.

  1. Select disease-resistant varieties, particularly for those diseases that appear in your garden each year.
  2. Purchase certified, disease-free potato tubers, garlic bulbs, and asparagus and rhubarb crowns.
  3. Avoid planting on wet, poorly drained sites. Plant in raised beds if drainage is not very good.
  4. Add organic matter to your soil each year.
  5. Grow healthy plants by providing adequate light, water, and nutrients. Give each plant adequate space to ensure good air circulation.
  6. Keep bare ground covered with an organic mulch.
  7. Avoid watering foliage in the evening. It is best to use soaker hoses and drip irrigation, or water around the plant base where it can quickly reach the root zone.
  8. Avoid handling wet foliage.
  9. Harvest your vegetables before they become over-ripe.
  10. Cut off and discard leaves and pull up and discard entire plants that are badly infected by disease.
  11. Clear your garden at the end of the season of all plant debris. This should be composted or tilled into the soil. Plant parts infected with especially damaging diseases, like late blight of tomato and potato, southern blight, and white rot (garlic and onions), should be bagged and put out with your trash.
  12. Keep weeds to a minimum and control those insect pests like thrips, aphids, flea beetles, and cucumber beetles that are most likely to spread diseases.
  13. When disease symptoms are observed it is often too late to apply a fungicide, although fungicide treatments can help to protect new or un-infected foliage. Fixed copper, sulfur, and horticultural oil are some organic fungicides used by home gardeners. Always, carefully read and follow all pesticide label information and test the spray on a small part of the crop to check for signs of leaf injury (phytotoxicity). Don’t spray on very hot and humid days.

Keep notes this year on plant issues to help you avoid them or manage them better next year. Keep planting and growing!

By Jon Traunfeld, Extension Specialist. Read more by Jon.