Author:Annette – Maryland Grows

Think Spring! Gardening Projects to Start in February

February 24, 2026February 25, 2026Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

A tree in front of a house set in a snowy landscape featuring a broken branch due to ice and snow.

Baby, it’s cold outside. Console your green thumb by tackling some February garden projects.

Veggie Planning

Grab a sketch pad or some graph paper and plan your vegetable and flower beds. You can work out crop rotation, placement and successive crops without getting your hands dirty.

Beginning gardeners – and those that want a refresher – might appreciate this reference from our Seed to Supper webpages that take you from seed to harvest (hence the name!) Guides are also available in Spanish! ¡Las guías también están disponibles en español!

Weeding

Okay, if you want to get your hands a little dirty, pull a few weeds. Winter weeds pop up here and there and many can be vanquished with a quick dig or tug in our soggy soil.

Here’s a nice reference for weed ID and management:

Groundsel is a winter weed that can be identified from its frilly leaves that are dark green to purple and yellow flowers that quickly go to seed. — Common groundsel is a winter annual weed you can manage now by pulling or digging.
Photo credit: Betty Marose

Garden Bones

While you’re scouting for weeds, look at your garden’s basic structure – its bones. Without the distraction of leaves, it’s easier to identify areas that could use an arbor, trellis or hardscaping.

You’ll probably spy opportunities to liven up your winter landscape, too. How about a sweep of native grasses, a winterberry pop of red, or bright yellow and oh-so-fragrant wintersweet?

Carry a notepad to capture all your ideas. Wouldn’t a big container make a marvelous focal point there? And that downspout is crying out for a rain barrel, isn’t it?

a winterberry shrub full of red berries — Winterberry Holly (*Ilex verticillata*).
Photo: Stacy Small-Lorenz, UMD Extension

Pruning

January to mid-March is prime time for pruning most trees and shrubs. Make sharp cuts at an angle. Remove no more than a third of the plant. And step back often to avoid overdoing it. Here’s a good pruning guide.

February also marks the season for grapevine pruning. My collection of grapevine wreaths from trimmings ranges from petite 3-inch rings to 2-foot whoppers.

Starting Seeds

Get a jump on spring by starting some plants from seed under grow lights. Now is a good time to start peppers, onions, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts.

Growing plants from seeds gives you more choices for plant varieties, organic growing options, and the satisfaction of growing your own food from start to finish. Plus, you can save money. Learn how on our Staring Seeds Indoors page.

I enjoy the glow of a friend’s grow lights as I drive by her home each winter. I can see the tidy rows of sprouts in my mind regardless of the amount of ice and snow piled around me.

Seedlings emerging from soil. — Starting seeds indoors jump-starts your growing season.
Photo credit: Home & Garden Information Center

Ice and Snow Damage

Deal with that ice and snow gently. To remove snow from tree branches without damage, brush up, not down. If ice coats the branches, let it melt naturally.

Should winter’s worst snap off a branch of a tree, make a clean cut now or in early spring. Clean cuts heal faster. Call on an arborist for jobs too big to tackle on your own.

Broken branch on a tree in winter. — Make a clean cut on winter-damaged branches to minimize health impacts.
Photo credit: Home & Garden Information Center

Feeding Birds

Wintertime can be a tough time for birds, too. To ensure their springtime birdsong and bug-eating services, keep their feeders clean and well-stocked.

Tool Maintenance

Are you looking sharp? How about your tools? If you didn’t sharpen your garden tools in the fall, do it now to have them ready for spring. Here’s a reference that includes tool care tips.

See? I told you there were a dozen different ways to keep your green thumb happy this winter. Grab some graph paper, seed catalogs, notepad and pruners and get going!

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. Read more by Annette.

Avoid the Holiday Plant Blues

January 25, 2026Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

A cluster of red and white blooms display on Amaryllis stalks. — Amaryllis sport large lily-like flower clusters.
Photo: Home & Garden Information Center

There should be a support group for those determined to keep holiday plants like poinsettias and cyclamen looking fabulous long past the holidays. We’ll call it the Post-Holiday Plant Blues Club.

Okay, some holiday plants like Christmas cactus are pretty easy. Others, not so
much. But if you’re willing to give it a go, I’m happy to give you the low-down on what each needs.

Poinsettias

red poinsettia plants — Rich red poinsettias are a classic holiday plant.
Photo: Home and Garden Information Center

Poinsettias are tropical plants, so they like it warm and moist. Put them in bright
– but not direct – light with no drafts. Water when the soil feels dry. If your plant is
wrapped in foil, ditch the foil and set the plant in a pot so water can drain. Or poke holes
in the foil and set it in a saucer. You’ll get several weeks of blooms, maybe more if you
speak sweetly to it.

Amaryllis

Amaryllis bulbs often come dipped in wax for an instant gift that does not need soil or water. Typically, they bloom quickly like this. If planting, you would carefully remove the wax coating by peeling it off.
Photo: Miri Talabac, UMD Extension – HGIC

Amaryllis sends up clusters of large lily-like blooms on thick stems. If you received an amaryllis in bud or bloom, put it in a sunny spot in a room that stays 60 degrees or warmer. Water when the top of the soil is dry. If you got an amaryllis bulb as a gift, plant it in potting soil in a container just larger than the bulb. Allow a third of the bulb to stick up above the soil, with its pointed tip – amusingly called the nose – up. Water thoroughly and move it to a sunny spot when it sprouts. Amaryllis bloom about four weeks after they sprout and keep blooming for
about a month.

Cyclamen

Cyclamen hold their delicate red, white or pink blooms high above their leaves like fistfuls of scarves fluttering in the breeze.
Unfortunately, they are more than a little fussy. They like temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees and very bright light, conditions that are rare in most homes. Water them like a violet, from the bottom with room-temperature water. I love this plant, but we rarely have a long-term relationship. A gorgeous pink one blooms on my windowsill, mocking me with its fickleness. I look great! I flop. I perk up! I flop. Such a drama queen. But a half-price sale lured me into trying once again.

Photo: Annette Cormany, UMD Extension

Christmas Cactus

At the other end of the care spectrum are oh-so-easy Christmas cactus. They like
bright, indirect light but need more water than their desert cousins. In fact, they are
tropical epiphytes that grow in trees in their natural habitat. I water mine weekly.
Christmas cactus also wins the top prize for longevity among holiday plants. I know
many people who have had them for years, generously sharing cuttings.
I once flew Christmas cactus cuttings home in my luggage, stumping everyone at
the airport security scan. What is that?! I did a little show and tell, and they let me keep
my treasure.

Unlike Christmas cactus, most holiday plants are fickle. Yes, poinsettias,
amaryllis and cyclamen can be kept year-round and forced to bloom again after varying
periods of darkness and dormancy. But honestly, I never bother.

It’s just too much trouble to track X hours of darkness for Y weeks at Z
temperatures. Plants are supposed to be fun. So, my holiday plants are just that: holiday
plants that add color and beauty to the season. I just chucked my poinsettia. Don’t judge.

However, if you love a challenge and want to try to keep these plants going, here
are some links with care tips for maximizing their beauty long-term.

Poinsettas – UMD Extension
Amaryllis Care – UMD Extension
Growing and caring for amaryllis – University of Minnesota Extension
Amaryllis, Hippeastrum – University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension

Happy nurturing!

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. Read more by Annette.

Create a Stunning Boxwood Tree for Holiday Decor

December 20, 2025December 22, 2025Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

Boxwoods have graced gardens for thousands of years and become part of our holiday traditions. Native to Europe and Asia, boxwoods were used in Egyptian gardens as early as 4,000 BC. Ancient Romans and Greeks used the fine-grained wood to carve intricate combs, utensils, flutes, and, yes, boxes.

Boxwoods came to the Americas in the 1600s with European colonists. Today boxwood joins holly as an evergreen symbol of the holidays. What better way to honor its rich tradition than creating your own tabletop boxwood tree. It’s easier than you think.

You’ll need:

boxwood cuttings
pruners
floral foam block (the kind that absorbs water)
a knife
shallow waterproof container (which fits the end of the foam block snugly)
wire or floral picks
Your choice of decorations

Instructions:

When you’re ready to go, assemble all your supplies on a waterproof surface.

Soak your floral foam in a bucket for a few hours to a day before you make your tree.
Use your pruners to fill a bucket with boxwood cuttings, resting their stems in a few inches of water. When you make your tree, you’ll re-cut those stems into four- to six-inch lengths.
Cut your boxwood the day before you make your tree to let the cut stems drink heavily. And yes, I said the stems, not you! Okay, a little cider is fine. Or mulled wine!
- No – you aren’t harming your boxwoods by pruning them now. A late fall or winter pruning helps to shape them for next year. Just go easy, cutting no more than a third of the plant.
Cut the sides of one end of a block of floral foam at an angle to create a tree shape, leaving a flat top at the peak. Put the wider uncut side of the floral foam into your container.
Starting at the bottom, push cut boxwood stems into the foam in a circle around the base. Work your way up the foam, using shorter pieces as you go. Some find it easier to establish the base and top, then fill in.
- Push stems into the foam only once. Moving them damages the foam. Stripping off some leaves at the base of stems helps them to go in more easily.

Tip: Stand back often as you work to look at the shape. Perfection is overrated, but it should have an overall tree shape. Fill in any gaps. When you’re done, no green foam should show.

Voila! You’ve just made your first boxwood tree.

Now comes the fun part: decorating it!

Use floral picks or wire to attach ribbons and bows, pinecones and picks, balls, beads, birds, or other baubles. My last tree wore vintage lace, star anise, berries, and strands of pearls. When you’re done – and smiling, no doubt – water your boxwood tree. Put your finger in the container and slowly water from the top until you feel water on your finger. A well-watered tree can last for a month or two.

A decorated and fully assembled boxwood tree featuring a red cardinal at the top. — Holiday boxwood trees are unique, long-lasting holiday decorations.

I tip my hat to Master Gardener Dusty Graham for teaching me how to make boxwood trees, so I could now teach you. Thanks, Dusty!

I hope you’ll try your hand at making a boxwood tree or two. They add elegance to your holiday home and make wonderful gifts.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. Read more by Annette.

Savor the Season, But Don’t Take Off the Gardening Gloves

May 19, 2025May 19, 2025Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

“In early June the world of leaf and blade and flowers explodes and every sunset is different.”
– John Steinbeck

June is a giddy month. As gardeners we have time to exhale and enjoy. Spring tasks like mulching and heavy-duty planting are done. Flowers are going gangbusters. Veggies are plumping up. But, as ever, there are a few things to do. So revel you must, but keep those garden gloves at the ready to ensure your garden keeps looking good and producing well.

Pinch back fall-blooming plants such as asters, mums, and tall sedum to prevent them from getting leggy. Use this trick to avoid supports for perennials that tend to flop, such as Shasta daisies.

Are there empty spaces in your vegetable beds from harvested crops? Consider planting a second crop of beans, beets, radishes, or cucumbers. This is called succession planting. The UME Vegetable Planting Calendar can help guide you.

A ripe pickling cucumber on the vine. — Fill in empty spaces in your beds with second plantings of vegetables like cucumbers.

Fruit trees naturally drop excess fruit this time of year. That is normal thinning that helps to produce fewer, larger fruit. You also can manually thin plum, peach, apple and pear trees. Just leave 5 to 6 inches between fruits.

Just say no to mulch volcanoes! The excessive mounding of mulch around trees and shrubs can injure and even kill them. Mulch should be only one to three inches deep and not be in contact with the base of your trees and shrubs.

The hum of mowers is a constant serenade. Are you remembering to let those grass clippings lie to provide up to a quarter of the nitrogen your lawn needs? It’s free fertilizer, folks. We just had a week of rain, but hot dry weather is coming. Mow high – 3 to 4 inches – to keep your lawn healthy and reduce weeds and disease issues. No scalping, please.

A closeup of a lawnmower next to grass that is mowed and some that is not mowed. — Let grass clippings lie for free fertilizer.

How is your compost pile doing? If all the rain has made it damp and a bit smelly, stir in some dry, carbon-rich materials such as straw or shredded leaves or newspaper. You need a mix of green (nitrogen-rich) and brown (carbon-rich) ingredients to keep compost cooking. Turn compost regularly and keep it slightly moist to create the best ever soil amendment.

A man next to a compost bin made out of chicken wire is using a pitchfork to toss rotted straw into the bin. — Turn compost regularly to make a 4-star soil amendment. Photo credit: Elizabeth Howe

Mosquitoes love wet weather. It makes tiny breeding pools more likely in pot saucers, buckets, tarps, outdoor toys and more. Look for standing water and remove it regularly.

The wet weather also has made millipedes emerge from damp leaf litter to wander up the exterior house walls, patios, basements and even one area hot tub. These inch-long brown worm-like creatures get their name from the many tiny legs. They do no harm and will disappear once things dry out. There’s no need to treat for them.

This is also snake mating season. A few years ago I came across a happy couple in a slithery embrace in my yard. My neighbor’s young boy asked me what they were doing. His mom smiled and nodded so I started with, “When a girl snake and a boy snake like each other very much…” Oh dear. Some people have a snake phobia. I don’t, but I get it. Just remember that snakes are good garden buddies, helping to rid our yards of mice, moles and voles. Let them be. It’s illegal to kill snakes in Maryland.

Enjoy this time in your glorious June garden…snakes and all!

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Obsessing Over Orchids

February 10, 2025Maryland Grows2 Comments

Confession time. I am more than a little obsessed with orchids. Why not? They are drop-dead gorgeous, the Grace Kelly of floral displays. Here’s their dirty little secret: some can be deceptively easy to grow. Phalaenopsis (fayl-eh-nop-sis) are the easiest to grow. Also called moth orchids, their round faces float above arched stems making them the darlings of home décor magazines.

Close-up photo of the flower petals of the Phalaenopsis orchid, also known as the moth orchid. — Phalaenopsis (moth orchid). Photo credit: UME-HGIC

And they are ever so undemanding. Just give them bright indirect light, very little water and a room with normal temperatures and they will be quite happy. Honest. Plus – drumroll, please – Phalaenopsis orchids bloom for two to three months starting right about now. Yes, that long.

I have a gaggle of orchid gals lined up on a table in my office, many of whom I’ve had for years. Last year’s birthday orchid (thanks, Dusty) bloomed off and on for six months. Just. Don’t. Overwater. That’s the primary cause of their demise. All they need is a gentle weekly spray of water in the sink. A tablespoon or two of water a week will do. Why? They are epiphytes. In the wild, they attach themselves to tree trunks and absorb the moisture and dissolved nutrients running down the bark during rain. They’re adapted to drying out in between rains because the root velamen acts like a sponge and holds moisture for a time. Those dangling “legs” growing up, down, and around are aerial roots. That’s what you spray.

In the wild, orchids drape themselves over tree bark and branches. They don’t need soil. The orchids we buy are in a special chunky bark potting mix that offers support and holds a bit of moisture. It’s okay to moisten that mix a bit and let it drain to boost the humidity. It’s also okay to add a bit of specialized orchid fertilizer to boost your orchid’s health and bloom time. Do you need a special orchid pot with decorative holes? Nope. But it does look kinda cool when those roots come rambling out aka Audrey in Little Shop of Horrors.

Two types of the Phalaenopsis orchid, also known as the moth orchid. One orchid has alternating flower petals that are light green and light maroon in color. Each petal has faint green veins. The other orchid has white petals with small maroon dots. — Phalaenopsis varieties. Photo credit: Marcia Toder, UME Master Gardener- Washington Co.

The most challenging thing about Phalaenopsis orchids is deciding which one to try. Petite or full-size? Fiery magenta, buttery yellow, or pure white? With or without contrasting veins, sepals, or spots? Stroll through any orchid display, and you’ll soon wear a slap-happy grin. Stay focused by looking for solid, deep green leaves, robust aerial roots, perky blooms, and many buds to maximize bloom time. Where should you look? Garden centers often have handsome plants, but I’ve found quite nice specimens at home improvement and grocery stores.

Once hooked, you might venture into other orchids such as Dendrobium, Cymbidium, Cattleya, or Lady Slippers. Forms vary from 6-inch ruffled blooms to cascades of tiny stars. And oh, the fragrances. Be dazzled by all the myriad colors and forms of orchids by visiting a public garden exhibit. Two outstanding collections are a day trip away. The U.S. Botanic Garden in D.C. has an annual orchid show, “Orchids: Masters of Deception,” from February 14 to April 27. And world-class Longwood Gardens offers an immersive experience with a floor-to-ceiling orchid display in their conservatory.

It’s easy to go overboard on orchids. And yes, there are support groups. The American Orchid Society’s website is a good place to learn more, as is our webpage. So, be bold. Try an orchid. It may become a delightful new obsession.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

10 Ways to Repurpose Your Christmas Tree

December 29, 2024Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

Photo of a live Christmas tree in a natural setting, adorned with beads and ornaments. — Christmas trees can shelter and feed wildlife long after the holidays.

Ping. Ping. Ping. As the needles fall from your Christmas tree are you wondering if you can repurpose it somehow? Well, here are a few environmentally smart, garden-friendly ideas.

Make it a living birdfeeder. Leave your tree in its stand or put it into a large pot or bucket weighted with rocks. Put it on your deck or patio where you can see it or lean it against a fence.
Next, have fun decorating it with food for birds and other animals. Try apple or orange slices or halves, suet cakes, dried fruit, mini bagels, bunches of dried seed heads or berries or whole sunflower heads.
Spread a peanut butter and cornmeal mixture onto pinecones, then roll them in birdseed and hang. String popcorn for a festive garland.
Protect wildlife by using natural materials like raffia, jute or cotton string for hangers.
Create shelter. Lay down your tree in the corner of your property or at the edge of your woods or meadow to give birds and other small animals cover from predators and nasty weather. This is a gift that keeps giving. As it decays in the coming years, your former Christmas tree’s wood will feed many living creatures and the soil.
Make mulch. Break out your shredder or join with neighbors in renting a shredder to chip branches for mulch.
Create compost. Shredded wood can also be added to your compost pile. And no, the conifer needles will not acidify a compost pile.
Winterize your perennials. Cut branches from your tree and lay them over your perennials to protect them from snow and reduce frost heaving. Remove the branches in early spring.
Feed your fire pit. Cut boughs can be used to feed your fire pit. Evergreens tend to have an abundance of sap, so only use their branches as fire starters and fuel in outdoor fire pits, not indoor fireplaces or stoves.
Beautify containers. Fill your outside containers with cut branches. Add colorful winterberries, dried seed heads, and a bow for an attractive winter look.
Build garden edging. Dried and sliced 2-inch trunk rounds can be set on end in a shallow trench to make a natural border for garden beds.
Get crafty. Let the wood dry for several months, then slice the trunk and branches into rounds for crafting. A quick online search on “repurposing Christmas trees” yields many craft options from trivets and coasters to napkin rings and ornaments.
Donate your tree. Towns and counties often collect Christmas trees to chip and use as mulch. Check with your town or county offices to learn more.

Your Christmas tree can live on in a dozen different ways after the holidays. I hope this year you’ll be creative in giving those boughs new life.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Gardeners Wrap Up the Gardening Season

November 22, 2024November 18, 2024Maryland Grows1 Comment

Okay, gardeners. We can see the finish line. It’s been a busy gardening season, but we are almost ready to wrap things up for the year. Almost.

October and November are the wrap it up, clean it up months. Now’s the time to give the last of your withering vegetable plants the heave-ho.

I know there is still one tomato out there, but it’s a brick. Let it go. Toss healthy plants on the compost pile and bag and trash the rest.

Are you one of those garden daredevils who cheat the season with late plantings of cool weather crops? Good for you. Just be ready with frost protection such as floating row covers or a deep layer of straw.

vegetable plant with a row cover — Floating row covers extend the growing season. Photo: UME/HGIC

Cut back any perennials that had serious disease or insect problems, but leave the rest standing to provide food and shelter for birds and overwintering pollinators and beneficial insects.

Mums have sensitive crowns – the part where the roots and stems meet– so treat them gently. After their fall show, leave them standing to increase their chances of coming back. Not all hardy mums are hardy.

Use leaves as mulch around trees and shrubs and in your vegetable and flower beds. Use a fine layer on your lawn and toss the rest in your compost pile.

Collect fallen branches to start a brush pile for wildlife. Put larger pieces on the bottom and smaller ones on the top to create cover and resting places for creatures great and small.

Yes, you can still sneak in some bulbs. Remember to plant them three times as deep as they are wide. In other words, a 1-inch daffodil bulb goes into a 3-inch hole.

You can plant trees and shrubs until the ground is frozen, too. Earlier is better to give roots a chance to get established. Just make sure you water them deeply every week.

red leaves on a tree — There’s still time to plant trees such as this native black gum *(Nyssa sylvatica)* with brilliant fall color. Photo: T. David Sydnor, Bugwood

Here’s a fact sheet that tells you how to plant trees and shrubs and lists plants that are best planted in the spring.

Also deep water any tree or shrub you planted earlier this year to send them into the winter well-hydrated. Water until we get a ground-penetrating frost, usually around Thanksgiving.

Water any newly planted trees and shrubs to help them overwinter. Photo: M. Talabac, UME

Want a live Christmas tree? Save yourself some colorful language by digging the planting hole now before the ground freezes. Drop in a few unopened bags of mulch to avoid losing Bowser or any holiday guests in there.

We’re almost to the cuddle up with cocoa season. Taking care of these few last-minute garden tasks will let us smile and sigh under the afghan, reveling in a job well done.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.