‘Emerald Green’ Arborvitae screening a property line. Photo: Miri Talabac, University of Maryland Extension
Q: I have limited space in a tiny city front yard and would like to block some of my view of the street. What types of evergreens would work well but not get too wide?
A: The width of the mature plants is the tricky part, since many upright evergreens mature at least 3 to 5 feet wide at their base, and not many are trimmable to keep them smaller. Plant options will depend on whether you have full sun or some shade from nearby trees or the house itself. Few city yards have issues with deer (though some do), so I’ll assume for now that browsing is not a factor.
Soil compaction is a common challenge, and poor drainage (is a roof downspout nearby?) can exacerbate root stress and cause plants to fail. If the site drains reasonably well and receives full sun in summer, your choices include slender-growing cultivars of widely-used evergreens. (Alas, there are very few native options to fit these criteria.) Examples include arborvitae (Thuja), juniper (Juniperus), yew (Taxus), Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus), boxwood (Buxus), and holly (Ilex).
Yew as well as broadleaf evergreens like the boxwood and holly can be pruned relatively easily to manage size, since they rebound well. Even so, it’s best to select cultivars that will mature close to the size you can accommodate without having to prune, both to save yourself the task and to reduce plant stress.
For the rest of those listed plants, especially other conifers (needled evergreens), pay close attention to expected mature size on the plant tag and make sure you have room, taking into account overhead utility lines. Take that stated size with a grain of salt too, since older plants keep growing and will not plateau at a set height forever.
Yew, Japanese plum yew, boxwood, and holly will handle a fair amount of shade and still look good, though the less sun they get, the less dense they might stay (or growth will slow). None of these species are super fast-growing (otherwise they’d get much too large for the space), but boxwoods and the upright yew varieties are among the slowest in pace. Even so, planting small, young specimens will be easier on both you and the plants (especially if shade tree roots are infiltrating the area), and they will catch up.
By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.
Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.
Tree planting efforts are picking up as Maryland’s 5 Million Trees Initiative moves forward in 2024. Getting these trees – any landscape trees – off to a good start at planting time and through their first few years of establishment is important for their long-term growth and benefits to the environment.
At Ask Extension, we often receive photos of newly planted trees and older specimens with signs and symptoms of trouble. One of the things we do in our diagnostic process is look to see if there is a “root cause.” Is a girdling root present at the base of the tree trunk? Is the tree planted too deeply? Can we see a root flare? Today I want to bring these questions to the surface and explain why an exposed root flare can help prevent the formation of girding roots and why it matters for tree health and pest management.
A beech tree with normal, healthy root flare. Photo: Miri Talabac, University of Maryland Extension (UME)
What is a root flare?
The root flare is the area at the base of a tree trunk where the topmost roots emerge outward. This area is sometimes referred to as the trunk flare or root crown. In many species of trees, the trunk widens and curves outward (“flares”) like the base of a wine glass. This is illustrated nicely in this brief video by the University of Maryland Arboretum and Botanical Garden’s Outreach Coordinator, Meg Smolinkski.
What is the root flare of a tree?
When thinking about the trunk and root system of a tree, it is important to keep in mind: Roots need to be in the soil to get a steady supply of moisture and nutrients. The trunk (stem) portion should be out of the ground where exposure and good airflow help to keep the bark dry.
In our landscapes, we have many trees that are planted too deeply and the root flare is not visible at all. The trunks go straight into the ground like telephone poles. This can result in lower bark rotting, reduced oxygen supply to the roots, disease and pest problems, and girdling roots.
We have an epidemic of planting trees too deeply
At the University of Maryland Extension Advanced IPM Conference for the commercial horticulture industry last month, Jacob Hendee, an arborist for the Smithsonian Institution Gardens, talked about how common it is nowadays to see trees planted too deeply. Burying the root flare has reached “epidemic” proportions in our landscapes, he noted – and it is killing trees.
The main problem he addressed in his talk was that buried root flares can set the stage for stem girdling roots to develop unnoticed. Stem girdling roots (SGRs) grow around the tree’s base, rather than pointing outward away from the trunk as normal roots should. As girdling roots grow and enlarge, they compress the water- and nutrient-conducting tissues in the tree. This interrupts normal plant functions and can lead to symptoms such as leaf yellowing (chlorosis), smaller-than-normal leaves, leaf scorch (browning), branch tip dieback, and bark cracking. SGRs can and do result in overall tree decline and eventual failure.
An example of girdling roots. Photo: M. Talabac, UME
Looking at a cross-section of a tree trunk, the light-colored portion is the water-conducting sapwood (xylem). Source: Jacob Hendee, Smithsonian Gardens
When a stem girdling root forms around the trunk of a tree (represented in orange in the diagrams), it compresses and kills the water-conductive sapwood, which can result eventually in a dead tree.Source: Jacob Hendee, Smithsonian Gardens
Trees under moisture stress due to stem girdling roots become more susceptible to pests and diseases.Scale insects are significant pests of some landscape trees, as are some types of beetles and other insects. If a tree develops a pest issue, the pest may be secondary to the problem that made the tree vulnerable to the pest in the first place – stress.
Hendee emphasized that maintaining a visible root flare and preventing SGRs are practices of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). IPM involves using physical, cultural (plant care), and biological methods to manage pests and diseases, leaving chemical pesticides as a last resort. In the example of tree care, correct planting and monitoring to prevent stem girdling roots are key steps to preventing tree stress. Instead of thinking about killing secondary pests that show up on trees, think about how to prevent stressful growing conditions from the beginning and during the life of a tree. Trees with minimal stress are more resilient to insect pests and less likely to be overwhelmed by them or need intervention to recover.
How do stem girdling roots get started?
Hendee noted that plant care practices, both before planting (at the nursery), during planting, and afterward (over-mulching) contribute to this problem.
1. Many trees are grown too deeply in the nursery. Girdling roots can start to form inside nursery pots when the roots hit the container and start circling. This issue can worsen when young trees are moved into larger containers as they grow (such as saplings being transplanted into a bigger pot as they mature) and their roots are not loosened or pruned to correct deformities. Larger trees are sometimes planted too deeply in the nursery field and come to the customer in “ball and burlap” form with the root flare already covered in soil.
2. Many trees are planted too deeply at the time of installation. If the planting hole is dug too deeply, the root flare gets buried when the soil is filled back in, and often then further covered with mulch. In that situation, stem girdling roots can develop and worsen undetected.
3. Tree flares are often buried deeply in mulch. Too often we see huge piles of mulch – sometimes one foot high or more “mulch volcanoes” – around trees. This will keep the bark moist and can encourage new roots to sprout from the trunk above the main supporting roots (the flare). Those adventitious roots will grow upward for oxygen and may begin to girdle the flare and trunk. They will also be more vulnerable to moisture stress since the mulch does not retain water in the same way soil does. There is absolutely no horticultural basis for putting a big mound of mulch around a tree like this!
An example of incorrect mulching. Photo: Dr. David L. Clement, UME
Here fresh mulch was incorrectly placed on top of a girdling root and up against a tree trunk. Photo: C. Carignan, UME
What can you do? “Free the Flare”
1. Check the roots at planting time. If you purchase a container-grown tree, ensure it is free of circling roots inside of the pot. If you do find roots that are circling the root ball, cut through those roots with a pruner or other sharp tool. Set the roots in the planting hole so that they are pointing in an outward direction.
Prevent girdling roots when planting a container-grown tree
2. Keep the top of the root flare visible. Root flares should be above the soil line. Plant so the root flare is 2 to 4 inches above grade. When purchasing a container-grown or burlapped tree, you may need to wash away some of the soil to see where the root flare begins. If a landscaper is installing a tree for you, make sure they set the tree at the correct depth.
A hose was used to wash away the soil from a container-grown tree, revealing the top of the root flare. The difference in the lower bark color (on the trunk) indicates that the plant was several inches too deep in its container. Photo: M. Talabac
When a root flare is visibly present, it can help deflect any stem girdling roots that begin to grow, forcing them away from the trunk. It also makes it easier to see where girdling roots begin to form. Monitor the root flare area of your tree(s) regularly and cut through any circling roots that begin to grow. It is easier to cut wayward roots when they are small. The process of locating and remediating stem girdling roots on older trees can be very expensive.
Also note that some species of trees are more prone to developing girdling roots (e.g., maples), and sometimes girdling roots develop below the soil surface where they are not easily detectable except by above-ground clues. If you see symptoms of water stress in the canopy of an otherwise sufficiently-irrigated tree (e.g. leaf scorch, smaller-than-normal leaves), consult with a certified arborist for a tree assessment.
3. Don’t overdo it with the mulch! Keep a mulch-free buffer zone around the root flare. Hendee suggested leaving a 3 to 12-inch area bare around the base of the tree. Think of it as a donut hole: mulch should be laid down in the shape of a wide, shallow donut rather than a big heaping mound. The total depth of the mulch should be only about 2 to 4 inches.
Mulch applied correctly. 1 Free root flare, 2. Mulch-free buffer around the root flare, 3. 2 to 4 inches mulch depth, 4. Broad mulch width. Infographic by Smithsonian Gardens
For further exploration of these topics and correct tree-planting procedures, I recommend the following resources:
By Christa Carignan, Certified Professional Horticulturist & Coordinator, University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center. Read more posts by Christa.
Illustrations used with permission from Jacob Hendee, Smithsonian Gardens
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Shrub rose pruned back in early March. Photo: M. Talabac
Q: When do I prune shrub roses? Is now okay? How far back do I cut?
A: Although you probably won’t kill a plant by doing it now (November) it’s best to wait until late winter or early spring (late February to early March time frame for central Maryland). Pruning before the dormant season might reduce some winter hardiness, potentially contributing to stem dieback. If you pruned in fall and a drastic cold snap were to cause plant tissue damage during the winter, then the second trimming to remove the dead wood would shorten the stem even more, as opposed to delaying trimming until the worst of winter is past and only making one trim at the height you prefer.
The height to reduce the stems depends on personal preference, and recommendations vary, but one convention is to cut shrub rose stems down to about 15 or 18 inches off the ground, though you could go lower to 12 inches or higher to 24 inches. Roses bloom on new growth (except for many climbing roses that also flower on old growth), so pruning at the end of winter will not remove flower buds. If you delay pruning into April or so, though, you might postpone when those first flowers of the season appear.
If a rose is so rangy that it’s just in the way, like arching over a sidewalk or blocking a hose spigot, you can compromise and make a light trim now to tidy it up so the thorns don’t catch people and then do the main pruning in several months.
By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.
Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.
Roseslug sawfly damage on rose. Photo: UME/Ask an Expert
Q: My rose leaves have white spots and holes in them. What causes this and how do I treat it? Is there a natural remedy that does not involve powerful chemicals?
Answer: It looks like your rose has symptoms of sawfly damage. Check the undersides of the leaves and look for tiny green larvae that look like little worms or caterpillars. These are the juvenile stage of an insect called roseslug sawfly.
Roseslug sawflies are neither slugs nor flies. They belong to the same order of insects as wasps, bees, and ants (Hymenoptera). Adult female sawflies use their unique ovipositor (egg-laying part) to saw a small slit in a leaf or stem where they lay their eggs. When the eggs hatch, the larvae feed on the leaf surfaces and cause an etched or scratched appearance. Some roseslug larvae chew through the leaves entirely. Damaged foliage turns brown and curls up as the season progresses.
In Maryland, there are three species of roseslug sawflies that cause damage to roses: the bristly roseslug sawfly, the roseslug sawfly, and the curled rose sawfly. Most of the feeding activity on roses in Maryland is seen in May and June, but some sawfly larvae can continue to be active until fall. Other insects, such as Japanese beetles, also cause chewing damage on rose foliage (typically in June-July).
Browning and leaf curling from rose slug sawfly damage. Photo: UME/ Ask an Expert
The best way to manage roseslug sawflies without chemicals is to monitor your plant(s) for damage symptoms early in the season (start looking in May) and manually remove any larvae (squish them or pick them off and discard them). A forceful spray of water from a garden hose targeted toward the leaf undersides can also get them off. Once dislodged, they cannot climb back up into the plant. Horticultural oil and Spinosad also work well against sawflies. Read and follow the product label instructions for the correct application procedures.
Two sawfly larvae are present on the undersides of rose leaves. Photo: C. Carignan
Predatory insects and birds help to manage sawfly populations naturally. Adding more flowering plant diversity to your landscape will provide food and habitat for beneficial animals that in turn help to reduce future pest problems.
Rose shrubs usually recover from sawfly damage eventually, as long as they are not struggling from other ailments or stressors such as drought.
Rosie Defoliators | Bug of the Week, University of Maryland, Department of Entomology
By Christa Carignan, Maryland Certified Professional Horticulturist, Coordinator, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Read more by Christa.
Have a plant or insect question? University of Maryland Extension’s experts have answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension.
Patent-leather beetle on a rotting log. Photo: M. Talabac
Q: I found several of these beetles in an old decaying stump and am concerned for my healthy trees. Will they attack live trees?
A: No, these beetles feed on rotting wood and the fungi decaying it, and they pose no threat to other trees. Several common names are given to them: Patent-leather Beetle, Bess Bug, and Horned Passalus.
These insects have a rare life history in that they live in groups and provide parental care for their larvae, feeding them pre-chewed rotting wood, likely for over a year while the young mature slowly.
The feature I find the most entertaining about them is their ability to squeak. Both adults and larvae can stridulate, which means they use one body part to rasp against another to create noise. The purpose of this is probably to communicate with each other. Cricket chirping and katydid calling are forms of stridulation, but in the case of these beetles, it produces more of a high-pitched sound akin to a person making “kissy” noises at a pet.
Interestingly, Iowa State University’s BugGuide web page for Bess Beetles speculates that the “bess” part of its name might derive from baiser, French for “to kiss.” (Or it’s derived from the fact that their forward-facing jaws can pinch, though I’ve never been bothered and I pick up these beetles every time I see them because they’re fun to find. “Petting” them sometimes makes them stridulate, which is always endearing.)
Wood-recycling insects like these are great to have around and rarely if ever pose a risk to healthy plants. Not only do they get those old stumps and logs out of the way for free (even though it can take a while), but both they and the fungi they work with are a means to make the old tree’s nutrients available again to the rest of the ecosystem.
By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.
Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.
This is a guest post by Esther Bonney, a student in Charles County, Maryland, and a member of the University of Maryland Extension 4-H Program.
Invasive plants are detrimental to Maryland’s well-being, and their damaging effects are becoming more evident each year as we witness declines in crop productivity, reductions in pollinators critical to maintaining stable ecosystems, and widespread displacement of native habitats. Between 2008 and 2013, wild bees declined by 23 percent across the U.S.—a serious concern to farmers and consumers alike. Through educational programs, guides, and native giveaways, Nurture Natives is taking a stand against invasive species to protect native plants and pollinators, restore natural habitats, and support farmers. Nurture Natives is led by University of Maryland 4-Hers Esther Bonney and Samantha Rutherford and Extension 4-H Educator Amy Lang and UME Charles County Master Gardener Marlene Smith.
Visitors line up for native trees at Maryland Day, stretching down the courtyard and around the sidewalk, sometimes longer than the line for free ice cream!
In March 2022, our team was selected to attend the National 4-H Youth Summit on Agriscience. There, we developed our project, Nurture Natives, to address a prevalent agricultural issue in our community: invasive plant species. Invasive plants choke out native species and are a major cause of crop loss and food insecurity. Invasive trees such as the Tree of Heaven rapidly overtake farmlands and attract invasive pests such as the Spotted Lanternfly, which is a serious threat to grape crops. In the U.S. alone, invasive species cause $40 billion worth of production losses to crops and forests per year.
Nurture Natives is dedicated to increasing biodiversity through the planting of native trees and the eradication of invasive plants. In the past year, Nurture Natives has been featured on the National 4-H and University of Maryland Extension websites, won a Lead to Change Grant, and was selected by the National 4-H Council as one of two projects nationwide to receive the highly-competitive Scale for Success Award. Nurture Natives was also recently featured in the Southern Maryland Independent: Nurturing natives and the next generation of environmental scientists.
Our team began our work by educating and raising awareness about invasive species in our community of Charles County. We hosted educational programs at schools and camps and, in October 2022, partnered with eight local organizations to host the first annual Nurture Natives Giveaway. We hosted games, crafts, presentations, and a honey-tasting to showcase the importance of native species and pollinators. In just two hours, we distributed 150 native trees and shrubs and reached over 70 families.
Samantha Rutherford (left) hands out trees to visitors at Maryland Day, and Marlene Smith (right), Charles County Master Gardener, collects forms from patrons before they reach the tree distribution table.Continue reading →
Spring is incomplete without the bold and soft hues of azaleas in your home garden. These spectacular plants are prevalent and have dominated yards and countless gardens in North America. These plants originated in Asia and made their way to the US via Europe around two hundred years ago. Since then, according to the American Azalea Society (ARS), over 10,000 different cultivars, or cultivated varieties, have been registered or named. The high demand for cultivated azalea can be attributed to its small manageable dwarf sizes, diverse attractive colors, deep green leaves year-round, and adaptability to the climate, making them easy to grow.
However, there are equally beautiful native azaleas in North America that are seldom seen in home gardens and are still not as well-known as their Asian cousins. To find them, it would be best to wander from the landscaped yards into the woods. In this post, I talk about the extraordinary beauty and ecology of native azaleas, as they require more attention and care from the gardening community.
What are native azaleas?
Azaleas are members of the heaths (Ericaceae) plant family, which includes cranberry, blueberry, and huckleberries. Because there is often confusion among people between azaleas and rhododendrons, it is much easier to remember that all azaleas are rhododendrons, but that all rhododendrons are not azaleas. In fact, azaleas belong to the genus Rhododendron. Azaleas native to North America are usually medium-sized or tall shrubs with soft, deciduous leaves, funnel-shaped flower lobes, and long tubular flowers with stamens extending beyond their showy petals. There are eighteen North American native azaleas (visit the American Azalea Society and American Rhododendron Society to learn more).
Rhododendron vicosum and Rhododendron calendulaceum. Photos: S. Basnett
Why grow native azaleas?
Native azaleas display shades of white, orange, pink, red, and yellow throughout the spring and summer. Although most people associate azaleas with spring, several native ones bloom in mid and late summer. It is often noticed that azaleas in their natural habitat show some staggering in their flowering timing, and their flowering durations usually range between 15 to 20 days. So, if you carefully select species based on their flowering timing, you can have azaleas bloom in your home gardens for at least four to five months. Unlike the evergreen cultivated ones, native azaleas have exceptional fall color before they shed their leaves for winter. Most native Azaleas can reach heights of 4’-8’ and can be used in hedgerows and as the background to other flowering dwarf shrubs. Some of the common native azaleas in the woodlands of Maryland, Virginia, and DC are smooth azalea (Rhododendron arborescens), swamp azalea (Rhododendron viscosum), pinxter azalea (Rhododendron periclymenoides), coast azalea (Rhododendron atlanticum) and early azalea (Rhododendron prinophyllum).
Besides the colorful hues in your green space, growing azaleas will also help maintain the native pollinator network in your local environment. Native azaleas can sustain a variety of fauna through their flowers; they are attractive to bees, butterflies, moths, and hummingbirds. The quantity and quality of nectar and pollen among these plants are often observed to be higher than in the cultivated ones. In general, they have a high amount of concentrated nectar and string-like pollen threads that help attract myriad forms of floral visitors native to North America.
Some azalea species have attractive warm orange and red flowers, and birds can detect warm colors easily. At the same time, insects, including bumblebees and smaller bees (e.g., Andrena sp.), are attracted to light pink, purple, and white palettes. Certain native species, such as sweet azalea and piedmont azalea, have a strong sweet fragrance. Besides providing a sweet smell, their fragrance also helps attract night pollinators such as moths. Nectar volume among the azalea flowers is relatively low compared to its nectar concentration; therefore, the migratory ruby-throated hummingbird makes occasional visits, as birds usually prefer flowers with high voluminous nectar. Their unique floral characteristics also attract diverse butterflies, recognized as potential pollinators for these species. Commonly observed butterflies are eastern tiger swallowtails (Papilio glaucus), silver spotted skippers (Epargyreus clarus), and great spangled fritillaries (Speyeria cybele). The flapping of butterfly wings helps transfer pollen from the male to the female organ and facilitates successful reproduction in these plants. Therefore, growing different shades of native azaleas in your yards and home gardens will be a good idea to support native pollinators.
Native azaleas are also relatively free of pests and diseases compared to cultivars, making them low-maintenance plants. They do not require regular pruning and are moderately slow growers. However, knowing the ecology of these species may be helpful for plant growers. For example, in the forest, these plants are mostly found as an understory of other tall hardwood trees like oaks and chestnuts; therefore, they will do well in less light and shaded areas in the home gardens. Most of them require moisture with good drainage and humus-rich acidic soil. You can learn more about the detailed requirements of the conditions preferred by these plants at the American Azalea Society.
It is never too late to add these cool plants to your home garden.
By Shweta Basnett, Fulbright Postdoctoral Fellow, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland. Visit her website for more information about her current research.
