Christmas trees can shelter and feed wildlife long after the holidays.
Ping. Ping. Ping. As the needles fall from your Christmas tree are you wondering if you can repurpose it somehow? Well, here are a few environmentally smart, garden-friendly ideas.
Make it a living birdfeeder. Leave your tree in its stand or put it into a large pot or bucket weighted with rocks. Put it on your deck or patio where you can see it or lean it against a fence.
Next, have fun decorating it with food for birds and other animals. Try apple or orange slices or halves, suet cakes, dried fruit, mini bagels, bunches of dried seed heads or berries or whole sunflower heads.
Spread a peanut butter and cornmeal mixture onto pinecones, then roll them in birdseed and hang. String popcorn for a festive garland.
Protect wildlife by using natural materials like raffia, jute or cotton string for hangers.
Create shelter. Lay down your tree in the corner of your property or at the edge of your woods or meadow to give birds and other small animals cover from predators and nasty weather. This is a gift that keeps giving. As it decays in the coming years, your former Christmas tree’s wood will feed many living creatures and the soil.
Make mulch. Break out your shredder or join with neighbors in renting a shredder to chip branches for mulch.
Create compost. Shredded wood can also be added to your compost pile. And no, the conifer needles will not acidify a compost pile.
Winterize your perennials. Cut branches from your tree and lay them over your perennials to protect them from snow and reduce frost heaving. Remove the branches in early spring.
Feed your fire pit. Cut boughs can be used to feed your fire pit. Evergreens tend to have an abundance of sap, so only use their branches as fire starters and fuel in outdoor fire pits, not indoor fireplaces or stoves.
Beautify containers. Fill your outside containers with cut branches. Add colorful winterberries, dried seed heads, and a bow for an attractive winter look.
Build garden edging. Dried and sliced 2-inch trunk rounds can be set on end in a shallow trench to make a natural border for garden beds.
Get crafty. Let the wood dry for several months, then slice the trunk and branches into rounds for crafting. A quick online search on “repurposing Christmas trees” yields many craft options from trivets and coasters to napkin rings and ornaments.
Donate your tree. Towns and counties often collect Christmas trees to chip and use as mulch. Check with your town or county offices to learn more.
Your Christmas tree can live on in a dozen different ways after the holidays. I hope this year you’ll be creative in giving those boughs new life.
By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.
Blue Atlas Cedars on the American University campus in Washington, D.C. Photo: M. Talabac
Q: I have always loved the look of blue spruces, and I see many Maryland nurseries stocking them. I’ve heard that I should consider alternatives, though. Why?
A: Although every plant has something it can be vulnerable to (pests, diseases, environmental stress) and nothing is risk-free, Colorado spruce (Picea pungens), the species with the popular blue-needled cultivars, struggles in Maryland growing conditions. As such, it is at risk for several problems that cause dieback and significant aesthetic damage. Overall, spruces as a group are not well-adapted to high summer heat and humidity, or compacted or clay-dominated soils common to urban or suburban landscaping.
No spruces are native to the state except for the tip of western Maryland, where the locally rare red spruce grows in the mountains. (Maryland Biodiversity Project notes that prior logging and wildfires reduced this already limited population.) You can see from the spruce species range maps on the Biota of North America Program website that no other spruce species grows wild anywhere near Maryland.
Due to the particularly damaging nature of the issues spruces can develop here, primarily from fungal infections — drastic needle browning and shedding, plus branch dieback — I suggest using alternatives if you want a large-statured, pyramidal, and/or blue-leaved evergreen specimen tree. This spruce decline issue is prevalent enough that it has its own University of Maryland Extension web page, “What’s Wrong with my Colorado Blue Spruce Tree?”
A substitute plant won’t necessarily look the same (it might have broader or looser branching, or won’t have blue foliage), but it can have a better chance of thriving. Your options will depend on the site conditions, including how much space you have for the plant to mature, though your best range of choices will be for a location in full sun (in summer) with good drainage and no deer browsing pressures.
Few locally native species are evergreen and large-statured, but they include American holly (Ilex opaca), Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana), and Atlantic whitecedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides), the latter of which is rare, unfortunately hard to find for purchase, and limited to the coastal plain in the wild. Several species of pine grow wild throughout Maryland, but their mature habit is quite different from spruce.
Left: Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana), Right: American holly (Ilex opaca). Photos: M. Talabac
Non-native candidates include other holly species or hybrids, Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), true cedars (Atlas Cedar, Cedrus atlantica, and Deodar cedar, Cedrus deodara), and Western arborvitae (Thuja plicata). Arizona cypress (Cupressus glabra) and atlas cedar come in silvery-blue forms if you want a foliage color similar to blue spruce. While leyland cypress (Cupressocyparis leylandii) is commonly planted, it suffers from some serious shortcomings that can make it short-lived and prone to fungal branch dieback.
Smooth Arizona cypress (Cupressus arizonica glabra). Photo: M. Talabac
Whichever plants you try, use a mix of species if you’re growing them in a group, like a screen or living fence, rather than mass-planting only one species or variety. This helps the planting to resist future pest, disease, or weather stress problems, since different species have different tolerances and vulnerabilities. That way, a future issue won’t be likely to impact them all equally severely, like a fungal needle cast infection wiping-out a row of blue spruce.
By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.
Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.
Mulch piled high around trees is harmful. Photo: D. Clement, University of Maryland Extension
I’ve been a bit twitchy lately. I keep seeing mulch piled high around trees and it makes me more than a little crazy. Those mulch volcanoes are so very bad for trees.
Why? They hold moisture against the bark, inviting rot, pests, rodents, and disease.
With mulch, less is more. One to three inches is all you need.
Done right, mulch can be a good thing. It suppresses weeds, holds moisture, prevents soil compaction, moderates temperature, and improves soil structure when it breaks down.
Proper mulch is 1 to 3 inches deep. Photo: UME-HGIC
Mulch can be attractive and create a protective barrier between lawns and plantings. It creates a no-go zone, keeping mowers and weed whackers from damaging tree bark.
A ring of mulch around trees also keeps thirsty grass from robbing tree roots of much-needed water. Water passes more easily through mulch than turf.
But too much of a good thing is bad. Very bad. So many plants die an early death due to excessive applications of mulch.
One client had lost three trees in one spot and called me for help. I nearly drove off the road as I approached her home. There were 17 inches of mulch, the bark was black and mushy, and the tree was dead as a doornail.
Once you start looking for them, you’ll notice mulch volcanoes everywhere. My phone is full of photos of these dastardly cones.
Chipped leaves applied too deeply around a tree as mulch. Photo: Jennifer Foltz
I can’t save all the trees, so I’m enlisting your help. Don’t let mulch volcanoes happen on your watch.
Know that the type of mulch you choose is important, too.
Shredded bark mulch is the most popular choice for flower, tree, and shrub beds. It resists compaction, looks good, and is readily available.
Avoid using chunkier nugget mulches where water flows regularly. Those nuggets float, so they tend to move – sometimes quite dramatically – in heavy rains.
Consider stone mulches carefully. Leaves, debris, and weeds are difficult to remove, and stones can dry plants with the heat they reflect. Baked Alberta spruce, anyone?
Also, avoid mulch made from recycled tires. It blocks the flow of air and water to plant roots and can leach harmful chemicals. Plus, it doesn’t break down to feed the soil.
Regardless of the type of mulch you use, keep it an inch or two away from trunks. This avoids moisture buildup that can cause rot and invite insects and disease.
I also encourage you to look at mulch alternatives. Not only are they more sustainable, they can save the cost and effort of applying and reapplying traditional mulch.
Plant groundcovers or a mix of perennials and groundcovers around trees to create a plant community that supports pollinators, beneficial insects, and wildlife.
Try using groundcovers instead of mulch in your flower beds. Newspapers and straw or untreated grass clippings work well in vegetable beds as does an inch or two of compost.
Untreated grass clippings can be used to mulch vegetables.
So join in the mulch mania. Toss it forth with glee but not too deeply. Or explore some mulch alternatives that not only block weeds, hold moisture, and feed the soil, but provide vital habitat.
By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.
A topped tree growing water sprouts. Photo: UME-HGIC
I love trees. I’m betting you do, too. They’re striking and statuesque. They shade us and inspire us, offer wildlife habitat, and provide a backbone to our landscapes.
But sometimes bad things happen to good trees. Well-intentioned but harmful practices such as topping threaten their health.
Pruning is good for trees. Done well, it can help to control size, remove potentially hazardous branches and improve both appearance and health. But bad pruning is harmful and can kill trees.
Topping – whacking off large limbs indiscriminately to stubs – is a very bad practice indeed. It’s damaging, dangerous, and expensive.
According to Dr. Alex Shigo, the world-renowned scientist and author of books on tree care, topping is the most serious injury you can inflict on a tree.
Why do people top trees? Most have trees too big for their space and feel topping is a good way to control size and prevent hazards. It’s not. Topping weakens trees.
In fact, a topped tree is much more prone to problems, including poor health and an inclination to drop branches or fall.
Leaves are food factories for trees. Since topping removes much of the leaf-bearing crown of a tree, it literally starves it.
Topped trees react by forcing out fistfuls of thin shoots around the cut to make more leaves. Creating these shoots drains even more energy.
A stressed tree is more vulnerable to insect and disease problems. The large, open wounds topping creates invite attack.
Good pruning cuts are made where a branch meets the trunk or another branch. Trees can heal this type of cut. Topping cuts in the middle of a branch create ugly stubs that often don’t heal.
Multiple large cuts – a staple of topping – create serious wounds. The exposed wood often decays and creates a pathway for infection. Columns of decay from repeat topping make a tree more likely to fall.
The multiple thin shoots that form near a topping cut are weak and bring problems all their own. They aren’t anchored in deep tissue like a normal branch, so they tend to break.
The thick regrowth of new branches also makes a tree top-heavy and more likely to catch the wind in a storm.
Also, topping is expensive. Topped trees need to be pruned regularly due to the rapid regrowth of all those skinny branches. Repeat toppings are more costly in the long run than proper professional pruning.
Topping has hidden costs, too. Weakened trees are more likely to cause damage by falling or dropping branches. And disfigured trees do nothing to enhance property values.
According to the International Society of Arboriculture, well-maintained, healthy trees can add 10 to 20 percent to the value of your property, while topped trees reduce value.
If a tree has overgrown its space, know that there are better options, including crown reduction or removal and replacement with a smaller tree. Just be safe and leave the big jobs for the pros.
Here’s our fact sheet on tree pruning that tells you more.
Topped trees are ugly, unhealthy, hazardous, and costly. Please don’t top your trees. I want you to enjoy happy, healthy trees for a very long time.
By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.
Plastic tree tie embedded in a crapemyrtle trunk because it was not removed promptly. Photo: Miri Talabac, University of Maryland Extension
Q: There’s a crapemyrtle in our new yard that has a plastic cable tying it to a stake that has become stuck in the wood. Should I cut it out so the trunk can heal?
A: No, that will cause more damage and potentially lead to even more wood decay and crown dieback. All you can do is carefully cut off the excess outside the bark (don’t worry about making it flush; you don’t want to cut into live wood). Gardeners and landscapers should monitor any trees they stake for indications a trunk tie is abrading, cutting into, or being enveloped by the bark. Most trees don’t need staking, and even when they benefit from it, removal of the stakes and ties is recommended after six to twelve months of use. No tie or trunk brace should be so tight that the trunk cannot sway a bit in the wind.
It’s hard to predict how much of an impact the damage you found will have on the branches that particular trunk feeds. Fortunately, the tie in your case did not encircle the trunk, just brace one side of it; I’ve seen several instances where encircling ties become embedded and essentially strangle and kill the entire top of the tree (Leyland cypress and Arborvitae being common victims).
Tree and shrub wood expands outwards as it grows, increasing in diameter as each ring of new wood growth is formed yearly. Although an imperfect comparison, there are parallels to how coral reef colonies grow – over time, the innermost “skeleton” is no longer alive, though it provides support, and the outer shell of tissues is living and actively growing, save for the bark itself. (You can think of bark a bit like nails on a person or pet…it’s produced by live tissue, but the material itself is not alive.)
If the tie extensively obstructs the cambium that lies under the bark (the live tissues moving water, sugars, and nutrients around the tree), one or more major branches above it may die back in the coming years, for which there is no treatment. In some cases, the obstruction just becomes buried under years of growth, hiding it from view. (This is a hazardous situation if the tie or obstructing material were metal, and the tree was removed and chipped up one day.)
Trees can’t heal quite the way animals do, but with luck, this damage will remain minor and not cause significant dieback. If it does, though, you’ll have to cut down that trunk. Since crapemyrtle tends to sucker readily, new growth can take its place if you let a sucker mature into another trunk.
By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.
Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.
Tree planting efforts are picking up as Maryland’s 5 Million Trees Initiative moves forward in 2024. Getting these trees – any landscape trees – off to a good start at planting time and through their first few years of establishment is important for their long-term growth and benefits to the environment.
At Ask Extension, we often receive photos of newly planted trees and older specimens with signs and symptoms of trouble. One of the things we do in our diagnostic process is look to see if there is a “root cause.” Is a girdling root present at the base of the tree trunk? Is the tree planted too deeply? Can we see a root flare? Today I want to bring these questions to the surface and explain why an exposed root flare can help prevent the formation of girding roots and why it matters for tree health and pest management.
A beech tree with normal, healthy root flare. Photo: Miri Talabac, University of Maryland Extension (UME)
What is a root flare?
The root flare is the area at the base of a tree trunk where the topmost roots emerge outward. This area is sometimes referred to as the trunk flare or root crown. In many species of trees, the trunk widens and curves outward (“flares”) like the base of a wine glass. This is illustrated nicely in this brief video by the University of Maryland Arboretum and Botanical Garden’s Outreach Coordinator, Meg Smolinkski.
What is the root flare of a tree?
When thinking about the trunk and root system of a tree, it is important to keep in mind: Roots need to be in the soil to get a steady supply of moisture and nutrients. The trunk (stem) portion should be out of the ground where exposure and good airflow help to keep the bark dry.
In our landscapes, we have many trees that are planted too deeply and the root flare is not visible at all. The trunks go straight into the ground like telephone poles. This can result in lower bark rotting, reduced oxygen supply to the roots, disease and pest problems, and girdling roots.
We have an epidemic of planting trees too deeply
At the University of Maryland Extension Advanced IPM Conference for the commercial horticulture industry last month, Jacob Hendee, an arborist for the Smithsonian Institution Gardens, talked about how common it is nowadays to see trees planted too deeply. Burying the root flare has reached “epidemic” proportions in our landscapes, he noted – and it is killing trees.
The main problem he addressed in his talk was that buried root flares can set the stage for stem girdling roots to develop unnoticed. Stem girdling roots (SGRs) grow around the tree’s base, rather than pointing outward away from the trunk as normal roots should. As girdling roots grow and enlarge, they compress the water- and nutrient-conducting tissues in the tree. This interrupts normal plant functions and can lead to symptoms such as leaf yellowing (chlorosis), smaller-than-normal leaves, leaf scorch (browning), branch tip dieback, and bark cracking. SGRs can and do result in overall tree decline and eventual failure.
An example of girdling roots. Photo: M. Talabac, UME
Looking at a cross-section of a tree trunk, the light-colored portion is the water-conducting sapwood (xylem). Source: Jacob Hendee, Smithsonian Gardens
When a stem girdling root forms around the trunk of a tree (represented in orange in the diagrams), it compresses and kills the water-conductive sapwood, which can result eventually in a dead tree.Source: Jacob Hendee, Smithsonian Gardens
Trees under moisture stress due to stem girdling roots become more susceptible to pests and diseases.Scale insects are significant pests of some landscape trees, as are some types of beetles and other insects. If a tree develops a pest issue, the pest may be secondary to the problem that made the tree vulnerable to the pest in the first place – stress.
Hendee emphasized that maintaining a visible root flare and preventing SGRs are practices of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). IPM involves using physical, cultural (plant care), and biological methods to manage pests and diseases, leaving chemical pesticides as a last resort. In the example of tree care, correct planting and monitoring to prevent stem girdling roots are key steps to preventing tree stress. Instead of thinking about killing secondary pests that show up on trees, think about how to prevent stressful growing conditions from the beginning and during the life of a tree. Trees with minimal stress are more resilient to insect pests and less likely to be overwhelmed by them or need intervention to recover.
How do stem girdling roots get started?
Hendee noted that plant care practices, both before planting (at the nursery), during planting, and afterward (over-mulching) contribute to this problem.
1. Many trees are grown too deeply in the nursery. Girdling roots can start to form inside nursery pots when the roots hit the container and start circling. This issue can worsen when young trees are moved into larger containers as they grow (such as saplings being transplanted into a bigger pot as they mature) and their roots are not loosened or pruned to correct deformities. Larger trees are sometimes planted too deeply in the nursery field and come to the customer in “ball and burlap” form with the root flare already covered in soil.
2. Many trees are planted too deeply at the time of installation. If the planting hole is dug too deeply, the root flare gets buried when the soil is filled back in, and often then further covered with mulch. In that situation, stem girdling roots can develop and worsen undetected.
3. Tree flares are often buried deeply in mulch. Too often we see huge piles of mulch – sometimes one foot high or more “mulch volcanoes” – around trees. This will keep the bark moist and can encourage new roots to sprout from the trunk above the main supporting roots (the flare). Those adventitious roots will grow upward for oxygen and may begin to girdle the flare and trunk. They will also be more vulnerable to moisture stress since the mulch does not retain water in the same way soil does. There is absolutely no horticultural basis for putting a big mound of mulch around a tree like this!
An example of incorrect mulching. Photo: Dr. David L. Clement, UME
Here fresh mulch was incorrectly placed on top of a girdling root and up against a tree trunk. Photo: C. Carignan, UME
What can you do? “Free the Flare”
1. Check the roots at planting time. If you purchase a container-grown tree, ensure it is free of circling roots inside of the pot. If you do find roots that are circling the root ball, cut through those roots with a pruner or other sharp tool. Set the roots in the planting hole so that they are pointing in an outward direction.
Prevent girdling roots when planting a container-grown tree
2. Keep the top of the root flare visible. Root flares should be above the soil line. Plant so the root flare is 2 to 4 inches above grade. When purchasing a container-grown or burlapped tree, you may need to wash away some of the soil to see where the root flare begins. If a landscaper is installing a tree for you, make sure they set the tree at the correct depth.
A hose was used to wash away the soil from a container-grown tree, revealing the top of the root flare. The difference in the lower bark color (on the trunk) indicates that the plant was several inches too deep in its container. Photo: M. Talabac
When a root flare is visibly present, it can help deflect any stem girdling roots that begin to grow, forcing them away from the trunk. It also makes it easier to see where girdling roots begin to form. Monitor the root flare area of your tree(s) regularly and cut through any circling roots that begin to grow. It is easier to cut wayward roots when they are small. The process of locating and remediating stem girdling roots on older trees can be very expensive.
Also note that some species of trees are more prone to developing girdling roots (e.g., maples), and sometimes girdling roots develop below the soil surface where they are not easily detectable except by above-ground clues. If you see symptoms of water stress in the canopy of an otherwise sufficiently-irrigated tree (e.g. leaf scorch, smaller-than-normal leaves), consult with a certified arborist for a tree assessment.
3. Don’t overdo it with the mulch! Keep a mulch-free buffer zone around the root flare. Hendee suggested leaving a 3 to 12-inch area bare around the base of the tree. Think of it as a donut hole: mulch should be laid down in the shape of a wide, shallow donut rather than a big heaping mound. The total depth of the mulch should be only about 2 to 4 inches.
Mulch applied correctly. 1 Free root flare, 2. Mulch-free buffer around the root flare, 3. 2 to 4 inches mulch depth, 4. Broad mulch width. Infographic by Smithsonian Gardens
For further exploration of these topics and correct tree-planting procedures, I recommend the following resources:
By Christa Carignan, Certified Professional Horticulturist & Coordinator, University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center. Read more posts by Christa.
Illustrations used with permission from Jacob Hendee, Smithsonian Gardens
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Last month, my blog post was an introduction to invasive plants and today I want to share information on three invasive, deciduous trees found in Maryland.
Springtime provides a breathtaking display of contrasting flowers in a wide array of colors, shapes, and sizes, which are found in herbaceous plants, as well as woody shrubs and trees. Unfortunately, some of these spring flowering trees are invasive and you need to be aware of their negative effects on ecosystems such as competition for resources including sunlight, soil nutrients, and space.
Q: What medium-sized invasive tree has white blooms in the early spring in Maryland?
Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana) in flower. Photo: Britt Slattery, US Fish and Wildlife Service, Bugwood.org
Callery Pear (Pyrus calleryana), sometimes referred to as ‘Bradford’ Pear, has several cultivars including ‘Chanticleer,’ ‘ Cleveland Select’, and ‘Autumn Blaze’, all of which will be in bloom around this time of year. The Callery pear was imported from Asia to Maryland with the hope of being able to help edible Bartlett pears, which were being threatened by a disease called fire blight. The plan was to cross these pears to gain disease resistance in the pear industry. Unfortunately, this experiment was unsuccessful in preventing fire blight, but these crosses seemed to have potential for the ornamental industry and were planted widely. Bloom time often coincides with our native serviceberry, which produces white flowers too.
The ‘Bradford’ cultivar was thought to be sterile; however, when new cultivars of Callery pear were developed, it was able to cross-pollinate with those and produce viable seeds. Birds and other wildlife eat the fruits, which results in spreading them to different areas. The seeds sprout and grow into dense thorny thickets, which are very difficult to control and result in crowding out native vegetation. Callery pear provides a stunning show of beautiful white blossoms; unfortunately, these trees are highly invasive, which has led a few states to ban all cultivars of Callery pear (Pennsylvania, Ohio, and South Carolina). This tree has an attractive V-shaped crotch that unfortunately will often split from high wind and snow weight damage.
For more information, history, and control options, please visit the University of Maryland Extension webpages: Invasives in Your Woodland and Bradford Pear.
Q: What invasive tree has purple blooms in early spring?
Princess Tree (Paulownia tomentosa). Photo:Leslie J. Mehrhoff, University of Connecticut, Bugwood.org
Paulownia (Paulownia tomentosa), also called princess tree or empress tree, has purple, pleasant-scented blooms that appear before the foliage in early spring. I saw this tree for the first time when I traveled to Howard County for training in 2012, as this is not a tree we have in Garrett County. Its striking, large, heart-shaped leaves automatically caught my attention and reminded me of the Northern catalpa tree, a great native tree that should not be mistaken for Paulownia. According to Plant Invaders of the Mid-Atlantic Areas, one empress tree is capable of producing 20 million seeds that mature to flowering in only 10 years! These trees prefer full sun but can grow on disturbed soils, creek banks, and even forested areas which gives them a big advantage over native species that often require more special environments to grow and thrive. Paulownia’s ability to sprout from adventitious buds on stems and roots allows it to survive fire, cutting, and bulldozing. It is, therefore, a very difficult and costly invasive plant to control, according to the Maryland Invasive Species Council Plant Invader of the Month listing.
A great alternative to Paulownia is the native Eastern redbud, which produces early, purple/reddish-purple blooms.
For additional information, history, and control options for Paulownia, visit the University of Maryland Extension web pages Invasives in your Woodland and Princess Tree.
Q: What invasive tree looks similar to black walnut?
Tree-of-Heaven (Ailanthus altissima). Photo: Chuck Bargeron, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org
Tree-of-Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) was introduced in the late 1700’s and thrives in many soil conditions. It has an amazing ability to grow very quickly and can disturb building foundations and even pavement! It was widely planted as a street tree and thus is found far and wide in the Eastern United States. This tree is called by other names including China-sumac, stinking sumac, or varnish tree due to its strong unpleasant odor. Tree-of-Heaven is sometimes mistaken for sumac, hickory, or black walnut because of similarities in leaf shape; however, look for the glands on the bottom of each leaflet to confirm its identity.
Just in case you needed one more reason to remove Tree-of-Heaven, it is a preferred food source for the new, exotic, invasive insect pest, spotted lanternfly.
For more specific information, history, and control options, visit these web pages:
Keep an eye out this spring for non-native, invasive trees as there are many others that I did not address in this article. Take any opportunity to help educate friends or family about the negative impact of invasive plants on biodiversity.
