Insects – Maryland Grows

Small but mighty. The amazing ground-nesting bee!

June 19, 2026Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

The summer is almost here, and if you are like me, you have already been outside and seen a bunch of tiny bees digging, digging, digging, and buzzing around flowers. Who are these little ladies? And what on earth (pun intended) are they doing? In today’s blog, I want to explain a bit about these super powerhouses, how they do what they do, and point to some of these cool bees that we can find right here in Maryland and our general region.

What are ground-nesting bees?

As its name indicates, ground-nesting bees are bees that nest in the ground, mostly by digging their nests. Ground-nesting bees are found in several families of bees, and being a soil nester/digger is actually one of the most common nesting strategies among solitary bees. In these bees, once the female finds a good nesting site, she starts excavating it to create an underground nest, which often has several brood cells, in which the larvae develop. These nests are usually found in spaces where the vegetation is sparse or the soil bare, and can sometimes be built along with other nests of the same species, leading to communal nesting areas. It is because of this preference for relatively open ground that it is often recommended that at least some uncovered ground is left in our green spaces, which helps provide habitat for their establishment.

A tiny bee is seen crawling out of a mound of soil on the ground. — *Ground-nesting bee coming out of her nest. Photo: Colleen (CC0).*

How do ground nesters build their nests?

As good miners or soil diggers, ground-nesting bees also have specific behavioral and morphological traits that make them good at what they do. Bees that excavate have modified leg structures that allow them to easily move within tunnels, strong mandibles that they use to actually dig the cavity, and modified extremities of the abdomen (the pygidial plate) that function as sorts of trowels and allow them to pack soil on the walls of the cavity they are digging.

Along with having the right tools of the trade, these bees are also selective of the type of soil they use to build their nests. Most ground-nesting bees prefer soils that are not too compacted, with at least some sand content, which makes them easier to dig through. This means that it is more likely that we will find these bees in rockier/sandier soils than in super clay-y ones. As a matter of fact, many ground-nesting bees are associated with dune nesting, and because dunes are often endangered habitats (because they are often disturbed/destroyed by human activities), many sand-nesting specialists end up becoming endangered as well. And as a fun fact about soil choice, bee experts think that because finding “good soil” is so important for the survival of these bees, bees tend to become associated with specific spots for nesting, with the nesting site becoming a sort of “family place”, where several generations of females from the same family line come back to nest over the years/generations.

A close up of the pygidial plant which is a small darker triangular structure at the tip of the bee's abdomen. — *The pygidial plate is a structure present at the tip of the abdomen of ground-nesting bees that functions as a trowel. Photo: MN Native Bees.*

Because digging through the soil with their mandibles (and sometimes their legs) is hard work, bees usually tend to choose the best timing to start their digging. In fact, the hardest part of the soil to dig through for a bee is the surface, which is often the most compacted. For this reason, bees tend to start digging after the soil has become moist (e.g., after rains). Incredibly, some ground-digging bees are even able to add, if needed, secretions or even nectar to humidify and loosen the soil! Once the bee has started her excavation, she continues digging deeper and bringing soil out of the construction area, which leads to all sorts of “mounts” being built around the nest entrance and sometimes chimney-looking structures.

What are some ground nesters from Maryland?

Andrena vicina – The neighborly mining bee

a close up of a bee gathering pollen from white flowers — *Andrena vicina.* *Photo: K. P. McFarland (CC0).*

This Andreniid is relatively large (about 1- 1.5 cm), present in North America and common in the Eastern USA. This species received that cute name because it is one of those that builds communal nesting areas (“neighborhoods”). In Maryland, the species is active right now (~June/July) and is generally seen visiting many native plants and crops. In particular, this is one of the known visitors of, among other plants, Rhododendron and Azaleas, several heather family plants (like Vaccinium, Kalmia), as well as several rose family plants (Prunus, Rubus).

Augochlorella aurata – Golden sweat bee

a tiny metallic green sweat beed in the center of a yellow flower

Augochlorella aurata. Photo: C. Martin (CC0).

This is a species in the Halictid family, and is called a sweat bee because it is often found collecting sweat (for water and salts). This is one of those tiny bees that you may find landing on you on a hot day, really committed to not letting go of your skin! This particular bee is relatively easy to recognize because it is small, metallic-looking, with beautiful green/golden iridescence. This bee is not fully solitary and is a species recognized to display primitive eusociality (for example, honey bees are true eusocials). In this species, there is a queen that starts a nest, and across the season, generations of first infertile and later fertile workers are produced. By the end of the season, the fertile workers are inseminated and disperse to overwinter. This bee species is pretty generalist in its choice of plants, known as a pollinator of many crops (e.g., apples, tomatoes, watermelon) as well as native plants.

By Anahí Espíndola, Associate Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.

Anahí also writes an Extension Blog in Spanish! Check it out here, extensionesp.umd.edu, and please share and spread the word to your Spanish-speaking friends and colleagues in Maryland. ¡Bienvenidos a Extensión en Español!

Enhance Biodiversity in Your Vegetable Garden by Planting More Flowers!

May 28, 2026Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

A view of a fenced in vegetable garden with Salad tables in the forground and multiple raised garden beds full of various vegetables. Bright orange marigold flowers line the edges of the raised beds and there are wood chip paths inbetween the planting areas. — *Marigolds line the edges of raised garden beds, bursting with vegetables in this county extension demonstration garden. Photo: Jon Traunfeld*

A practice generally used in agricultural contexts is that of floral supplementation. In today’s blog, I would like to dig a bit into this idea and present some strategies to implement it at smaller scales, like small vegetable gardens and green spaces. Read along to learn a bit more!

What is floral supplementation?

Agriculture using western methods generally leads to losses of plant biodiversity in and around fields, mostly because it transforms diverse spaces into large monocultures (the crop fields). This, in turn, reduces the ability of the ecosystem to regulate pests, maintain pollination and eventually can negatively affect yield and production, along with increasing environmental erosion. As a response to these needs, strategies have been developed to increase biodiversity in agricultural contexts, and one of those is floral supplementation. In this strategy, the areas surrounding the crop fields are planted with diverse floral mixes or hedges, or the crop rows are intercropped with flowering plants. Such approaches improve soil quality and reduce erosion, increase diversity of plants and animals associated with them, and in many cases lead to improved pest control and pollination of the crop. Although this is a practice more or less widespread and recognized for production fields, it is not often officially promoted in smaller areas such as gardens or the green spaces that surround them. Let’s fix that! 😊

Why does floral supplementation work?

The idea behind these practices is that they increase the spatial and plant resources available to the local biotic community. By increasing the number of plant species present in an area, the different types of food and nesting resources are also increased and become more complex. For example, there may be flowers that bloom at different times of the season, that produce different types of nectar and can support different pollinators, fruits that support different insects and birds, plants of different heights and structure that can offer shelter to different organisms. These modifications eventually lead to more diverse animal communities being present in the area where the supplements are added. From the point of view of the benefits of these changes on the actual performance of the crop field, this diversity promotes the presence of biological control of pest agents (e.g., predators of pests, parasitoids), as well as increases the diversity and abundance of potential pollinating species. The presence of a more robust plant community can also promote soil retention through the presence of more roots to physically retain it, reducing erosion and water runoff.

Tomato plants with green tomatoes growing in a raised garden bed with a railing in the background. Interspersed plantings include basil, and chard. — *A way to implement floral supplementation in small spaces is through the combination of different crops on the same pace, such as offered by the idea of companion plantings. Photo: Steph L.*

Floral supplementation in gardens

Although the extent of floral supplementation done at the agricultural scale can not be reproduced at the garden level, the same principles can be implemented, especially if the gardening space is not necessarily embedded in a very biodiverse context. Here are some ideas on how to do it.

Intercropping and Companion Planting

A cool way to both increase diversity and production per unit of area is the use of intercropping with companion plantings. Here, different crops can be interplanted, with rows alternating species, or with several crop species planted in a mixed way in the same part of the garden. This relates to the idea of companion planting, where species that are planted together are selected for their ability to successfully coexist and support each other. The table gives some ideas on potential combinations to promote and avoid.

Companion planting promotes the interplanting of different crops/herbs, with species known to be compatible and incompatible in these plantings. Table from Virginia Cooperative Extension publication, Companion Planting in Gardening

Hedgerows

Green bushes with pink flowers along a grassy area under trees. — *Especially if planted with native species, hedgerows can offer a complex structure for a lot of animal diversity to establish close to our gardens. Photo: M. Gimber.*

This strategy can be especially effective if there is a lot of room around the garden plot. Instead of leaving that as a mowed space, it is possible to turn it into a structurally and species-diverse space! For this, one can consider planting sets of native shrubs/small trees that can provide complex shelter spaces and flower/fruit/seed resources for many animals (including humans! 😛 ). Some choices I really like for our area are fringe trees, spicebushes, witch hazels, hazels, pawpaws, serviceberries, native elderberries, or redbuds. Of course, not all these species are appropriate for all areas, so depending on the level of light and soil conditions, some may be preferred over others.

Flower Strips

A close up of Monarda or beebalm with red blooms — Even when not much space is available, the planting of native herbaceous plants can lead to an important bump in diversity around our vegetable gardens. This strip of *Monarda, Solidago, Penstemon, Rudbecia* and some other native plants is directly adjacent to my vegetable garden and attracts many pollinators and predators such as wasps and mantids. Photo: A. Espindola.

Flower strips are also a great choice, and if space is available, one can easily turn them into a small floral meadow. These spaces can be planted with seed mixes, which can be purchased from seed companies specialized in the establishment of native meadows. (Be sure to review the species list since some meadow mixes can contain invasive or borderline invasive plants, others may contain annuals like Cosmos.) If the space available is not very large, it may be more practical to just plant a set of native flowers that bloom at different times through the season. Check out this other post where I direct people to some specific plant lists that can be handy for our area. Especially if the species chosen are perennial, the planting will lead to a long term establishment, and if wanted, new plants can be added over the years, as some species become more established.

Book Review: The Nature of Oaks

January 15, 2025January 15, 2025Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

Winter’s leafless landscapes, while beautiful in their own right, can look barren compared to the cacophony of color and activity of late spring/early summer. Once an oak’s leaves have senesced and its acorns have fallen, you’d think that not much is happening way up there in the canopy. But surprisingly there is! Tallamy’s The Nature of Oaks, takes the reader on a month by month journey of how these mighty trees support an abundance of life year round.

In fact, indigenous oaks (genus Quercus) support the highest number of Lepidoptera (butterflies, moths, and skippers) species in the mid-Atlantic region- some 534 different native species (Tallamy & Shropshire, 2009). Lepidoptera in the larva or caterpillar stage, such as the Greater Oak Dagger Moth (Acronicta lobeliae) (Fig. 1), often have a narrow diet breadth feeding on only a single family of plants. The over 500 species of caterpillars that oaks support, in turn, feed birds and other wildlife further up the food chain.

Fig. 1. Greater Oak Dagger Moth caterpillar. Photo: Nick Furlan

Tallamy’s Nature of Oaks gives numerous examples of insects’ impressive camouflaging, and describes how it helps them go undetected by hungry birds. For instance, the oak specialist American Oak Beauty (Phaeoura quernaria) blends in amazingly well with its host plant during both its larval and adult stages (Figs. 2 & 3). It’s no wonder that we often don’t notice all of the activity on oaks, especially given that much of it takes place at night.

Photo of an American Oak Beauty caterpillar on a tree twig. The caterpillar looks very much like the tree twig. — Fig. 2. American Oak Beauty caterpillar. Photo credit: Adrian Romo

Photo of an American Oak Beauty moth on the bark of an oak tree. The bark is covered with gray and green colored lichens. The moth's body colors and color pattern make it difficult to see the outline and shape of the moth. — Fig. 3. American Oak Beauty moth. Photo credit: Basil Conlin

Tallamy also considers what’s going on beneath the canopy. Many oak-dependent species complete their life cycle in either the leaf litter or soil at the base of the tree. Research by our state entomologist and UMD alum Max Ferlauto shows that raking less results in more butterflies, moths, and beneficial arthropods. The harmful effects of leaf removal are widespread, impacting community composition, nutrient cycling, and soil stability (Fig. 4).

Illustration showing the negative effects of removing leaves from the ground. — Fig. 4. Negative effects of leaf removal. Illustration by Maggie Lin

Of course oaks support a host of other arthropods and critters- from tiny wasps that form galls on oak leaves and terminal buds to numerous birds and mammals that depend on the trees’ nutrient rich acorns. Tallamy’s Nature of Oaks contains compelling data and entertaining anecdotes that left me awestruck by the beauty and interconnectedness of these mighty trees with all living things. Tallamy suggests if you can only plant one tree, make it an oak.

If you’re feeling inspired to plant an oak in your yard, Tallamy provides guidance on where and how to plant oaks for long term success. For instance, to overcome the concern of tree damage, he suggests planting young trees closer together (vs a specimen tree) so that they’ll be smaller in diameter and their roots will interlock. In Maryland, we’ve 21 native oak species that are commercially available, including two that reach a max height of 20 feet. For photos and details on growth requirements, habitat value, etc. see the new Commercial Maryland Native Plant List.

Where can you purchase native oaks (and other plants)? This month, the MD Department of Agriculture (MDA) launched a certification program for wholesalers, growers, and retailers of native plants. The program will make it easier for consumers to find sellers via a tiered system (novice, pro, and premium). Certified sellers will be listed on MDA, MD DNR, and UME’s web sites (coming soon). The program will also help consumers quickly identify which plants are native to MD via a new ‘Best Maryland Native Plant’ logo that retailers are encouraged to use on plant tags and signage.

If you’ve any questions or comments about growing or using oaks or native plants in general, I’d love to hear from you at lkuder@umd.edu.

Reference:

Tallamy, D. W., & Shropshire, K. J. (2009). Ranking lepidopteran use of native versus introduced plants. Conservation Biology, 23(4), 941-947.

By Lisa Kuder, Native Plants and Landscapes Specialist, University of Maryland Extension. See more posts by Lisa.

Leave the Leaves, All While Not Making Your Neighbors Mad

November 13, 2024Maryland Grows4 Comments

With the fall season we are starting to see a lot of articles talking about the massive ecological and soil quality benefits of leaving leaves, stems, and sticks in our green spaces. As a biologist, I understand why doing so is indeed the right thing to do, but I often face pushback on this topic from people I mention this to through my Extension work or just in my neighborhood. There are of course many barriers to adopting such practices that I have heard people mention, but one that comes up often is the one that involves social or peer pressure. In other words, how to adopt this without making your neighbors mad? In today’s blog, I want to give some pointers to avoid conflict with (and maybe even convince) neighbors who may be less convinced than you on these practices.

Some fall practices that we know are good for biodiversity and your soil

I do not want to talk yet again in depth about these practices (you can read more about it in these other articles if you want to know more):

But I want to just quickly state some of them, so you know what I am referring to throughout this article. I feel that there are three major types of practices that can be adopted for protecting pollinators and other insects during the winter: leaving the fallen leaves on the ground, not pruning certain pithy stems to the ground until the Spring, and making branches and stick piles in sections of your green spaces.

For all these practices, common sense should be used when deciding whether to adopt them or not (e.g., if you are in a fire-prone area, perhaps making huge wood piles is not a good idea), remembering that these are indeed all practices that have been shown to improve biodiversity in our green spaces.

Fallen tree leaves have been spread about fours inches deep in a wide circle around the base of a very large tree in a backyard. Stones are used to create the circular perimeter and contain the leaves. — Piling the leaves around trees is a good way to retain them in the green space, all while giving an impression of “tidiness” to the yard. Photo: D. Mizejewski.

How to avoid “leaving the leaves” look messy?

So, you want to participate in the ”leave the leaves” action, but you still want to make clear that somebody is actually taking care of it. What to do?

If you have the option to ignore others’ opinions, you can just leave the leaves where they fell and go on with your life. 😊 That said, this may or not apply to most people.
You can pick certain areas of your green space to leave the leaves, but rake other areas. Perhaps you want to have the areas that are less exposed to people’s eyes be those selected for leaving the leaves. This will show that your leaving the leaves is purposeful and not just a lack of care.
If you have trees on your space, you can also decide to pile up the leaves around trees. This will provide shelter to insects and other small critters, provide mulch for the tree, and sign active care of your space.
A problem I sometimes hear about is leaves blowing over to another person’s yard or space. To avoid this, you can use plants to line/fence your green space. These plantings will have the positive effects of both allowing your leaves to stay on the ground, while minimizing “spill overs”.
Explain what you are doing. You can tell your neighbors about what is going on, and even put a sign up to clarify what is happening (if you want to go “fancy”, the Xerces Society has a neat one).
A thing NOT to do if you would like to retain arthropod diversity but also make the leaves look “tidier”, is mow them over. This has been shown to kill the insects that were preparing to overwinter in them. ☹

A "Pollinator Habitat" sign is visible in this part of the landscape where fallen tree leaves are spread about four inches deep in a garden bed. The sign explains that the leaves help overwintering pollinators survive the winter. — Displaying a sign that explains that some activities in our green spaces are creating pollinator habitat can go a long way. Photo: C. Corner.

How to leave the stems without issues

Another practice shown to support stem-nesting insects (including several bees) is not trimming pithy stems all the way down during the fall.

If you have the option to ignore others’ opinions, you can just leave the stems and go on with your life. 😊 That said, this may or not apply to most people.
As for the leaves, you can select sections of your space where you decide to implement this. An extension of this idea is that perhaps you can reconsider where your plantings are, so you have the pithy plants (e.g., brambles) in areas that you know are not going to be looked at all the time.
You can also decide to trim the plants down to some extent (about 2-3 ft from the ground) but not completely. This will show that you are taking care of the plants, but that you actively decided not to trim them all the way down.
Letting people know what is going on is always a good thing. You can add a little sign to tell people about what you’re doing and why, and/or you can talk to your neighbors to let them know.

2 foot to 3 foot lengths of tree branches and sticks are piled together in an out-of-the way spot in the yard to provide habitat for insects and other small critters. The pile is surrounded and held up four medium-size sticks stuck in the ground vertically at the corners of the pile. — Make your wood and stick piles look “organized” by defining spaces in your yard that you allocate to creating those biodiversity habitats. Photo: Natural History Museum.

Making a pile of sticks and wood without scaring people

Making stick piles is a very good practice to retain biodiversity in green spaces. That said, people can feel like a pile can look untidy, and even some cities may have some regulations about what type of pile may be OK versus not.

If you have the option to ignore others’ opinions, you can just make a pile and go on with your life. 😊 That said, this may or not apply to most people.
You can restrict the pile clearly to a specific area of your space, and make clear that you have actively decided to make one and are taking care of it. This is to sign that this is not just some brush you left around after you trimmed some plants, but actually a specific green space feature you are trying to build.
You can make it look cute. Check out this other blog, A Brilliant Fall Banquet, where some ideas are given.
Information, information, information. Let people know what this is and why you are doing it. And also, if there are some afraid of snakes or fires, make sure that the area you live is not known for its high fire or venomous snake danger (you can inform yourself about these topics online or ask an Extension agent; e.g., Venomous Snakes of Maryland.

A Brilliant Fall Banquet for Birds, Butterflies, and Bees

November 6, 2024November 6, 2024Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

It’s that most glorious time of year in Maryland, peak autumn, a time of constant change where every day brings new explosions of color. Beyond leaf peeping along our morning commutes, changes large and small are detectable in exquisite detail, if we only pause to step out in nature to look, listen, and smell the fragrance of the season in the air.

Right now, migratory birds are coming and going, shrubs are blooming and berrying, bees of all stripes are scrambling for the last drops of nectar as fall flowers fade. With some surprisingly low-cost, low-maintenance strategies, you can begin right away to transform your local landscape into a brilliant fall banquet for birds, bees, and butterflies.

bumble bee on yellow flower — Pollinators continue to gather nectar from late fall flowers. Photos: S. Small-Lorenz

honeybee on a pink flower — Pollinators continue to gather nectar from late fall flowers. Photos: S. Small-Lorenz

At this time of year, wintering birds are beginning to arrive from the north, while some summer visitors linger to enjoy the bounty of fall. Dark-eyed Juncos (Junco hyemalis) are already returning from their northern breeding grounds. I spotted my first juncos of the season flitting about the raised garden beds on Halloween right outside of the Anne Arundel County Extension office.

cabbage white butterfly — Cabbage White (*Pieris rapae*) butterflies were introduced to North America and are common across Maryland. Their larvae are considered to be crop pests. They typically reach the end of their adult life cycles toward late October. Photo: S. Small-Lorenz

On the same day, Cabbage White butterflies were still mobbing blooming New York asters in the brilliant noon sunlight on a day of record-breaking late October heat. The viburnum berries had already been plucked, possibly by the Northern Mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos) singing nearby, and its outermost foliage had turned a deep Cabernet red on a chillier night. I suspect that mockingbird has now staked out the American holly berries ripening nearby, as he seeks to maximize his energy intake before winter sets in.

Northern Mockingbird. Photo: Matt MacGillivray, CC BY 4.0

At Howard County Conservancy the day before, I noticed winterberry shrubs loaded with ripening berries, where another singing mockingbird steadfastly stood guard. Native honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is flowering and berrying simultaneously, gracing the trellis archway into the native plant garden, and the common witch-hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) is blooming, our only witch-hazel to bloom in the fall.

red holly berries — Ripening American Holly (Ilex opaca) Berries.
Photo: S. Small-Lorenz

red flowers and berries on native honeysuckle plant — Ripening American Holly (Ilex opaca) Berries.
Photo: S. Small-Lorenz

a winterberry shrub full of red berries — Winterberry Holly *(Ilex verticillata). Ph*oto: S. Small-Lorenz

common witch-hazel tree in the fall - yellow leaves and flowers — Winterberry Holly *(Ilex verticillata). Ph*oto: S. Small-Lorenz

Taking cues like this from nature can be an excellent strategy for planning our conservation landscaping for year-round color. Planting native berrying shrubs and evergreens not only extends our color palette, it provides natural sources of food and shelter for songbirds like Gray Catbirds (Dumetella carolinensis), Northern Mockingbirds, Cedar Waxwings (Bombycilla cedrorum), Eastern Bluebirds (Sialia sialis), Yellow-rumped Warblers (Setophaga coronata), Ruby-crowned Kinglets (Corthylio calendula), and thrushes as temperatures cool and extra energy is required to fuel up before, during and after migration.

Depending on your specific location and site conditions, consider planting Maryland native berrying shrubs to enhance your fall bird banquet. These could include northern bayberry, maple leaf viburnum, red osier dogwood, native honeysuckle, black elderberry, native hollies (American, inkberry, and winterberry), huckleberries, and red chokeberry.

Leaving fall seed heads standing into winter also provides resources for a whole array of seed-eating birds like sparrows and finches. Even as flowers begin to wilt and fade, they still provide essential nectar resources to native insects that are beneficial for their pollination and pest control services, not to mention as songbird prey.

So if you are considering what you can do right now for nature and the environment in your own neighborhood, here are a few low- to no-cost fall strategies to get you started right away:

Map out one or more locations that you would like to dedicate to a native shrub planting area. Make note of conditions (wet/dry, sunny/shady, soil type) so that you can select the right plants for your site when the time comes. It isn’t too late to plant native shrubs in most parts of Maryland, but if you choose to wait for spring, you can still start preparing the bed and browsing for fall-berrying shrubs now (see #5)! If you don’t know your soil type, this is the perfect time to do some home soil analysis. Observe where stormwater flows off of your property, and consider planting a mulched stormwater buffer using arborist wood chips and native plants to absorb rainwater which can both help reduce downstream flooding and improve water quality while beautifying your landscape.

Pledge to leave the leaves this fall. Raking a thick layer of leaves into your designated shrub planting bed will almost immediately start to create habitat, retain soil moisture, and build rich living soils. I call this “Raking by Design.” Think about this – who rakes the leaves in the forest? Towhees, sparrows, jays, bats, squirrels, deer, and many more wild residents…a reminder that leaf “litter” is an important habitat component for many creatures, and it puts essential nutrients back into the soil as the leaves decompose. If you’re concerned about leaves blowing around, it’s fairly easy to contain whole leaves with low garden border fencing, but it isn’t entirely necessary. Consider designating a portion of your yard a ‘no-rake’ wild zone, where you leave the leaves undisturbed, right where they fall.

leaves piled in a garden with a leave the leaves sign — Leave the leaves for healthy soil and habitat. Photo: S. Small-Lorenz

Leave your native flowers standing well into winter, beyond peak bloom. Birds, bees, and butterflies will benefit from the stems and seed heads well into fall and early winter.

Use fall prunings, cuttings, logs or stumps to create shelter for overwintering birds, bees, and other wildlife. Recycling your “yard waste” is one of the easiest, low cost ways to start building healthy soil and creating habitat to benefit biodiversity in your local landscape. This can take the form of a brush pile, wood pile (situated well away from your home’s foundation), leaving a natural stump instead of stump-grinding, or building a simple “bug snug” like the one pictured here.

sticks piled into a pyramid to make a bug snug shelter for insects — A “bug snug” made with cut woody stems, seed heads, and leaves will provide a shelter for overwintering insects, stem-nesting bees, and birds. Photo: C. Carignan

Browse options for native berrying shrubs to plant this fall or next spring that would be right for the conditions in your yard. While browsing native plant resources like Alliance for Chesapeake Bay’s Native Plant Center, also make note of whether the shrubs you choose are dioecious or not, meaning that you may need to consider planting female and male plants near one another in order for flowers to be fertilized and berries to form. Finding native plants locally right when you want them can be a bit challenging when getting started, so take some time to familiarize yourself with Maryland native plant material sources via Maryland Native Plant Society’s native plant shopping resources.

Which of these low-cost, low-maintenance strategies are you planning to try to enhance your fall living landscape? Which berrying shrubs might you consider adding to your fall banquet? Leave us a comment below, and don’t forget to let us know which wild visitors are enjoying the fall feast in your neighborhood!

By Stacy Small-Lorenz, Agent, Residential Landscape Ecology, University of Maryland Extension. Read more posts by Stacy.

Fear of Insects: Understanding Our Fears to Help Conservation

October 7, 2024October 4, 2024Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

Over the years, I have been involved in several initiatives that aim to summarize and translate our knowledge of insects, biodiversity, and some of the ecological services they provide, so that it can be understood by policymakers and the general public to inform decision-making and help ourselves and the living planet. The overwhelming take-home of these works is that insects (and biodiversity in general) are declining at a very fast speed, with very negative consequences on our ability to survive in a less diverse future world. When taking on these knowledge translation activities, however, there is one topic that keeps coming back: people are scared of insects (and wildlife, generally)! Then, how to promote the protection of something we’re scared of and disgusted by? In this blog post, I decided to embark on a mission: to help us understand our fears and recognize how they may be affecting our ability to protect the natural world, and what we can do to turn the wave on this to the benefit of all. Keep reading; I promise I will not shame or judge anybody 😉.

a beautiful collection of colorful beetles on display — Insects (only beetles shown in this picture) are the most diverse and abundant group of animals and play central roles in maintaining ecosystems. Photo: “Insects Unlocked” Project, University of Texas at Austin

The biodiversity crisis – a real problem with real consequences

There is now massive evidence that biodiversity is being lost. This is true for many groups of organisms, but here I want to focus on one in particular: insects. Why? Insects are the most diverse and abundant group of animals and, as such, they are deeply embedded in the running of the natural world. This diversity and abundance turn insects into sorts of ecosystem architects and janitors. They pollinate, feed on other organisms, degrade organic material and make nutrients available for others to consume, disperse seeds, and much more! Beyond the importance of all this to all organisms, these functions, in particular, are central to allowing us to produce food, maintain soil quality and balance, sustain rich ecosystems, and naturally control pests. Promoting insect protection, however, often faces a big challenge: low traction and low engagement, given the fear of insects.

Fear of insects – an encounter between humans and our natural world

Fear and disgust of insects is a very widespread feeling, especially in developed countries and urbanized societies. Although it is understood that the presence of fear or disgust usually develops as a protection system against potential dangers (and there are a few insects that we need to be wary of!), the extent to which fear of insects is present goes beyond what would be needed to properly protect us from a potential danger… And this is starting to have an impact on our ability (and willingness) to protect this important part of biodiversity. How does this work?

People have been studying fear of insects for a while and their findings are really interesting (you can read some neat reviews on this in Current Opinion in Insect Science and Science of the Total Environment). For example, researchers think that this extreme fear of insects may have evolved as a sort of “smoke alarm” (a loud but very non-specific type of alarm). In fact, there is reason to have respect for some insects, since some of them can lead to painful and potentially fatal bites/stings or can carry diseases. The presence of fear against those insects thus makes sense, because they lead to protecting our health. However, there is a balance to be found between responding to a real danger (e.g., hitting a hornet’s nest) or to an inexistent one (e.g., encountering a moth). Because the cost of responding to an inexistent danger is not super high in this case (like for a “smoke alarm”), then an extreme response to any insect can simply appear and spread through human populations. In this case, the only way to “tune” such an extreme response is to learn how to recognize harmful from non-harmful insects, something that many programs (including this blog! 😊) try to do.

Going back to biodiversity conservation, it is illuminating and empowering to realize that the simple action of learning can lead to increased conservation actions… learning when there is reason to stay away from insects or not leads to an appreciation of their huge diversity and more engagement in their protection. Some ways to do this involve using formal learning methods like courses, books, or guides, but also some more interactive ones, such as citizen science projects like iNaturalist or group-specific projects (e.g., the fireflies atlas).

a monarch butterfly — Rearing insects at home (like this monarch butterfly) can be a fun and learning-rich experience through which our appreciation for insects can grow and our fear decrease. Photo: Tim and Selena Middleton (CC)

Another way this fear develops is through social learning. As humans, we can learn through both direct experiences and social interactions. In fact, studies have shown that a large part of this establishment of fear or disgust in humans is learned through interpersonal interactions and not innate. For example, people have discovered that before age 5, most kids are not repelled by most insects or arthropods, and that the level of fear and disgust kids show is correlated with the fear their caretakers have of them. We see this a lot in our work. The Insect Zoo of our Department at the University of Maryland (UMD) is a very popular attraction at outreach events such as UMD’s open house event, Maryland Day. When participating in this event, we see time and time again how kids are not afraid of petting insects or other arthropods, while their parents are grunting and screaming in the background at the simple sight of one. Dealing with this learned fear is a bit trickier because it requires caretakers to become more aware of how they can imprint fear in kids. However, seeking to better understand and recognize insects and their potential (or not) of harm can help break this cycle. Rearing with kids insects like butterflies can be a great positive experience for all, and can happen in pretty much any house. Engaging in learning activities with kids, such as through insect summer camps (UMD has a super-fun Bug Camp!), is another way to restrict the establishment of this type of fear.

a women holds a spider in front of a boy at the insect petting zoo — Petting zoos and other exhibits that feature insects and other arthropods can be a great way to engage kids and adults in healthy and safe interactions with organisms they may fear. Photo: UMD Department of Entomology.

Finally, there is another way this fear may appear. We said above that this sort of fear is more common in urbanized societies. It is thought that a part of the fear may come from a lack of exposure to biodiversity. Under urbanization, there is indeed a removal of contact with natural environments, with people becoming less and less exposed to wildlife. When insects are seen (often in the house), the other two types of fears may pop up and join forces to, on the one hand, trigger repulsion or fear and, on the other, increase avoidance of natural spaces that could contain “bugs.” The good news is that even in cases when there are few natural spaces available close to home, there are indeed many ways people can be exposed and establish positive experiences with insects. Visiting exhibits where insects are featured is one of these ways. You can learn about many other ways in this cool article: Teaching About Insects in a World Afraid of Bugs.

Termites and Carpenter Ants: How to Tell the Difference

September 25, 2024September 25, 2024Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

Wood-damaging insect pests are a concern for anyone who lives in a structure made of wood. So it’s not surprising that we get several samples of insects for identification at our county offices.

Pests can damage wood by eating, excavating, or using it for their homes or galleries. Damage to foundational components can be especially alarming and expensive to fix.

Q. What are some physical differences between a carpenter ant and a termite that can be seen with the naked eye?

Antennae – straight or elbowed?
- Ants have elbowed antennae
- Termites have straight antennae
Wing length – same length or is the front set longer?
- Winged termites have wings that are much longer than the body and are of equal length
- Winged ants have wings of different lengths

Pinched or narrow waist versus one long segment?
- Ants have a narrow or pinched waist
- Termites have bodies that are all the same width

a diagram comparing a termite and an ant — *Comparing a termite (top) to an ant (bottom). Diagram courtesy of USDA Forest Service Archive, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org*

a carpenter ant female — *Black carpenter ant (Camponotus pennsylvanicus), winged queen. Photo: Jon Yuschock, Bugwood.org*. Note the narrow or pinched “waist.”

Q. Is there a difference in the damage caused by carpenter ants and termites?

Yes. Both can compromise the structural integrity of a building but the actual damage is going to be different. Carpenter ants make galleries and excavate damp or moisture-compromised lumber to make their colonies. Termites eat the lumber and live in tunnels that they make.

Q. What are the similarities between termites and carpenter ants?

Both are social insects that live in large complex colonies.
Both carpenter ants and termites are attracted to moisture, so be sure to fix any drainage issues that would create a wet environment.

Q. Does landscape mulch lead to termites in your home?

The short answer is no; however, mulched areas may be more attractive to termite activity because of the increased moisture.

Here are some suggestions for protecting your home offered by the University of Kentucky.

Try to prevent the wooden foundation from coming into direct contact with the soil. Also, prevent tree limbs from touching your roof, as this gives insects an easy pathway from the soil to your home.
Do not let moisture accumulate near the foundation. Divert drains and downspouts away from the foundation, as well as lawn sprinkler or other irrigation systems.
Reduce and eliminate excess moisture and humidity around the foundation of your home including both basements or crawl spaces.
Never store firewood or debris against foundations or inside the home.
Use mulch sparingly, especially up against the foundation.

If you are looking for information on how to treat or prevent termite infestations, Mississippi State University Extension has all the details in its Methods of Termite Control.

Remember that both these insects can be nuisance pests when they invade your home or other buildings; however, in nature, they are responsible for helping to break down stumps, fallen trees, and other debris. They also serve as a valuable protein source for birds and other small carnivores. So when possible, appreciate the value that they bring to your local ecosystem and food web.

For all the details on termites and carpenter ants, visit the Home and Garden Information Center webpage.

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.