Six years ago, I visited Burpee’s Fordhook Farm in Pennsylvania as part of the International Master Gardener Conference. We toured their trial garden, and one of the crops I noted was a direct-sow tomato plant. This is an exciting innovation to vegetable gardeners, because it means not having to start seeds indoors and raise your tomato plants under lights until it’s time to transplant them outdoors. You could just plant the seeds directly in the ground and still harvest your tomatoes at the same time as conventionally grown ones. I decided I had to try this when the seeds were available.
Well, it’s 2025, and the seeds have appeared in Burpee’s catalog, so I bought some. Here’s the lineup: two tomatoes and three peppers. I got seed for the Rain Drops tomato, a cherry (claims 70 days to maturity from sowing), and the Sow Sweet snacking pepper (60 days). Here’s how growing them went for me and what I thought of the results. (Note: this is nothing like a real field trial, but rather one small-scale gardener’s experience in one year.)
Last year, I accidentally introduced bacterial leaf spot into the pepper beds in my own community garden plot and the Derwood Demo Garden, probably through infected seed. BLS is a common disease of peppers that spreads quickly in warm, humid weather (a.k.a. our summers) and can be devastating to an entire crop, especially in small gardens. Lesions on leaves expand until the foliage drops; lesions on fruits make them unattractive though still edible. Cooler, drier weather (the kind we mostly don’t get) can slow or even stop the disease, but otherwise, the only solution once it really gets going is to pull the plants. Trash them, don’t compost them, because while the disease doesn’t linger long in soil, it can last quite a while in plant debris. This also means that garden cleanup is important. Read more about BLS and how to prevent and manage it here.
It’s the beginning of May, so it’s time for my annual appeal to hold off on planting out your tomatoes and other cold-sensitive crops. I think the plea may fall on deaf ears this year, because looking ahead at the 10-day forecast here in upper Montgomery County, I see only one night that might fall below 50 degrees F., and only barely below. Days are nice and warm. It feels like tomato-planting time.
Let’s just state a few caveats, though, and then I’ll let you go about your business.
In many recent years, we’ve had a substantial drop in temperature in mid-May, even after summerlike conditions had already taken hold. That may not happen this year, but it still could.
It looks like we are finally going to get some rain coming up—hurray!! We really need it. But a rainy period isn’t the best time to put tomatoes in the ground, not because you get wet, but because the plants do. Wet leaves and splashing mud will make them more susceptible to fungal diseases that could be lurking in the soil. If you do plant during or before a lot of rain, make sure the soil is covered by mulch.
Most importantly, the air temperature at planting time matters less than the soil temperature, and at least where I’m measuring, the soil temperature is far below the ideal 60 degrees F. that tomatoes prefer. Get yourself a soil/compost thermometer and stick it in the ground where you intend to plant; see for yourself. Cold soil temperatures hold back the growth of plants that like it warm, and fruit may be poorly formed.
My tomato and pepper plants are still inside under lights. They’ll venture outside to start hardening off this weekend, so that in another week or so, if the forecast looks good, I’ll be able to consider putting them in the ground. But I’m definitely going to check that forecast and stick that thermometer in the soil.
If you’re in a hurry, and are ready to jump in and protect your plants if we have a mid-May frost, I can’t stop you from planting. You may end up with plants that produce much earlier than mine. Or they may sulk and get diseases and make misshapen fruit. Sometimes the bet pays off, and sometimes it doesn’t. I like to play it safe.
By Erica Smith, Montgomery County Master Gardener. Read more posts by Erica.
I mentioned in my post last month that many of the pepper plants I grew from seed this year were infected by bacterial leaf spot. I did my best to remove diseased material from the garden, but undoubtedly some of it still lingers in the soil and might survive to infect plants next year, so I will plan to grow varieties that are resistant to this disease.
Pepper leaves infected by bacterial leaf spot. Photo from HGIC.
And no, I don’t just have a list of these varieties in my head. I’ll have to do some research. Maybe you’ve faced this problem too, when all or some of your tomatoes or squash or some other vegetable succumbed to a disease you managed to get identified—and your friendly Master Gardener or Extension specialist advised you to plant resistant varieties. How do you go about finding them?
First, check out Cornell Cooperative Extension’s Disease Resistant Vegetable Varieties page. Here you can find a list for each of many common vegetables of available varieties and the diseases to which they’re resistant. For example, if you have a problem with fusarium wilt in tomatoes, click on Tomato and then skim down the list to note all the varieties with fusarium wilt resistance. (Lucky you; there are lots.) You can also download the information in spreadsheet form for easy reference.
If you have favorite seed catalogs, they can be another good source. Most seed catalogs will add codes to each variety listing that represent disease resistance; for example, fusarium wilt is coded as “F” and if you see “F1-2” that means it’s resistant to both races 1 and 2 of fusarium. (The more resistance, the better, since you probably don’t know which race infected your plants.) Somewhere in the catalog section for each vegetable there will be a list of codes and what they mean.
If you don’t grow your own plants from seed, use these resources anyway. Make a list of resistant varieties, find a garden center or other plant source with a wide selection, and pick out the plants that meet your criteria. Make sure the plants you select look healthy!
Here are some other things to keep in mind:
Hybrid varieties are more likely than heirloom or other open-pollinated varieties to have demonstrated disease resistance. If you have anecdotal evidence that an heirloom is pretty resistant, try it out, but you might want to grow it separately from your bed of resistant types. Same goes with that variety you just have to grow because you can’t do without it, but you suspect it may come down with the bug—grow it away from the others.
“Disease resistant” does not mean “can’t possibly get the disease.” If the pathogen is present, it will probably still infect plants, but the resistant plants will stay healthy much longer—maybe until the very end of the season, if you’re lucky.
Know the source of your pathogen: is it present in the soil, or will it reappear blown in on the wind, or is it more likely to come from infected seed or plant material? Knowing a bit about how transmission works will help you strategize to keep plants healthy. The HGIC website is a good source for information about plant diseases and how they spread (hint: look at the entry for the vegetable and it will list relevant diseases).
There may be other methods available to keep disease away, such as treating seeds with bleach or hot water, using fungicides, and most importantly keeping soil around plants covered with mulch to prevent splashing onto leaves. Also try to avoid overhead watering; water at the base of the plant. You can also remove and destroy infected plant parts when you spot them. Using these methods in combination with planting resistant varieties will increase your odds of success.
Do your research and have a bountiful, disease-free growing season next year!
By Erica Smith, Montgomery County Master Gardener. Read more posts by Erica.
As Dr. Spock famously said about parenting: “Trust yourself. You know more than you think you do.” This is equally true about gardening, even for beginners. People sometimes ask me when they should pick vegetables, as if it was a total mystery, and I generally reply that they’ll know it when they see it, especially if it’s a crop that’s commonly available in markets and grocery stores. If not, a quick online search or a look at the seed packet or catalog may enlighten you. Yours may not achieve the shiny perfection of the catalog models, but it’ll be recognizable. There are exceptions to this easy-to-tell model (melons are notoriously enigmatic) but mostly it’s not so hard.
Being ready to pick and eat, however, is not the same thing as being ripe, and this is a matter of great confusion among even some experienced gardeners, so I’ll plant a few ideas here that might help. Or make you more confused. I don’t know, I can’t think in this heat either.
You won’t find a lot of experienced gardeners—at least those who are honest with themselves—talking about “rules” in gardening. That’s because, strictly speaking, there are very few of them. There are certainly guidelines, which are created through a combination of experimentation, synthesis of results, lots of mistakes and corrections, and effective communication of principles. There’s also a lot of bad advice out there, which you can weed out in simple ways (try using “Extension” as part of your web searches) or by disregarding those helpful nuggets that use only anecdote or tradition as rationales. (“This happened to me once, so it must always be true!” “My grandmother always said…”) Personally, I think you can also ignore pundits who declare rules without exceptions. There are always exceptions.
Or maybe I’m saying that because I just broke a rule. It’s May, so time for hardening off seedlings. The guideline for hardening off is to introduce your young plants to the outdoors gradually. Carry your tray full of pots outside and put them in a sheltered spot (out of the wind and sun). Give them a few hours of outdoor conditions and then bring them inside again. Next day, lengthen the time outdoors. Over a week, expose the plants to more sun and some light breezes. Leave them outside overnight on the last few nights before you plant them in the garden. This way, they don’t get shocked by a sudden change in exposure, and they will settle into their new life more readily. Failure to make this gradual transition could result in a serious growth setback, or even in death. (Of the plant. You’ll be fine, I hope.)
Just a quick note from me (Erica) this month to report on some new pepper cultivars I’m growing. These include ‘Lesya’ sweet pepper, ‘Tam’ jalapeño, and ‘Escamillo’ frying pepper.
First, ‘Lesya.’ Wow, I’m in love with this one.
It’s a heart-shaped red pepper, about 3-4 inches long, thick-walled and super-sweet. Those thick walls make it great for roasting, but it can also be eaten raw or cooked other ways. It also just looks terrific growing on strong plants that don’t get leggy and seem pretty disease-resistant.
I bought seed for ‘Tam’ jalapeño because it’s supposed to be on the milder side, but with some spice to it, unlike the ‘Nadapeño’ heatless type I grew last year (which was kind of boring). The first thing I did with the fruits was to make them into refrigerator pickles (sliced), and those turned out pretty hot. So I thought I’d do a taste test comparing ‘Tam’ to other jalapeños. Please note, this was not a scientifically valid comparison; that would involve a lot more testers (instead of just me and my son), a lot more peppers, and many tests over time. Peppers can be more or less hot depending on the weather, the soil the plants are grown in, the genetics of particular plants, and probably lots of other factors.
Anyway, I picked a couple of peppers from the Derwood Demo Garden, and a ‘Tam’ from my own garden.
L to R: ‘Tam,’ ‘Lemon Spice,’ and ‘Jalafuego’ jalapeños
I’ll also note that picking the ‘Lemon Spice’ fully ripe made the comparison even less valid (but it’s so pretty!), and that I should have found a larger and more mature ‘Jalafuego.’ But onwards. Of the three, ‘Lemon Spice’ was definitely the hottest, nice and eye-watering. ‘Tam’ had practically no heat on first bite, and then it crept up on me, but it was definitely milder. ‘Jalafuego’ was weirdly mild as well; I suspect another fruit on another day would have knocked my socks off. So, nothing definitive, but I think if you want a milder jalapeño ‘Tam’ is worth trying.
Apparently this year some people, in some places, bought ‘Tam’ plants that turned out to be sweet banana peppers – all part of the great pepper seed mixup that you can read about on this Garden Professors blog post – but my seed (purchased from Sow True Seed, for the record) turned out to be the real thing.
Finally, this is my second year growing ‘Escamillo’ frying pepper, and I’m very satisfied.
It’s a nice meaty yellow pepper that can easily reach 6 inches or more, ripens up fast, has thick walls for good roasting, and is also great for frying or eating raw.
And that’s the pepper report!
By Erica Smith, Montgomery County Master Gardener. Read more posts by Erica.
