Master Gardener

Grow Peas, Please!

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Peas growing at the Derwood Demo Garden in 2015 in a very appropriate container! (We must have cut out the bottom, since you need a soil depth of more like 8-10 inches to grow peas.)

Spring is the time to plant peas! We are nearing the end of our pea-planting window, so if you want to grow them this year, get them in the ground soon. Sowing peas is very weather- and temperature-dependent. There’s a tradition of planting them on St. Patrick’s Day, which is not a bad guide, but obviously if there’s snow on the ground that day, or it’s pouring rain or freezing cold, you might want to hold off. Peas are very hardy, and since we’ve had a recent trend of warm late winters (followed by chilly springs), planting them as early as February might actually work, but be ready to throw a protective row cover over the plants when there’s a freeze. But early April is not too late, since it’s often on the cool side well into May. If the weather gets too warm, peas will not bear well, and the vines will dry up.

Soil temperature is also important. Peas can germinate at as low as 40°F, but warmer temperatures (up to 75°F) will aid germination. If the soil is both cold and muddy, pea seeds will likely rot before germinating. Peas grow easily in containers and raised beds, and using these will provide more drainage.

You can also pre-germinate pea seed (see instruction on the HGIC “Growing Peas” page). This pretty much guarantees that pea seeds will at least start growing, and once they get going they’ll likely mature. If you don’t have time for pre-germination, just soaking the seeds for a few hours in a container of water immediately before planting will help them get a good start.

Pea seeds soaking in water prior to planting

Pay attention to the “days to maturity” listed on the seed packet. You can find varieties of peas that mature in as little as 30 days, or as long as 80 days, but most of them will be in the 50-70 day range. Giving them a good head start with the techniques above will help you harvest a crop in time. Shelling peas, snap peas and snow peas can all be grown easily here in Maryland. Pick your favorite! You can also find types that emphasize the growth of tendrils, used most frequently in Asian cooking.

Peas should be planted thickly, 1 to 3 inches apart. The growing plants will tangle together and can support each other, but they’re helped out by using a trellis or fence to climb on. You can also create a trellis out of sticks—just take some small fallen branches and shove them into the ground, overlapping to make a rough structure. Be creative! Place your trellis when you plant your peas, not after they have sprouted, to prevent damage to roots. Read the variety description to find out how long the vines will grow; there are dwarf varieties that top out at less than two feet or long vines that can reach six feet.

Some notes on nomenclature:

  • The edible peas you grow in your garden are Pisum sativum. They are often called “sweet peas” because they are sweeter than field peas (see below).
  • “Sweet peas” are also a flowering vining plant you may grow as an ornamental, Lathyrus odoratus. Don’t confuse the two when you’re buying seeds! Sweet pea is a lovely plant but not edible, and the seeds may be toxic.
  • “Field pea” can refer to Lathyrus hirsutus, also known as Austrian winter pea, which you can buy as cover crop seed. Also not recommended as an edible crop.
  • “Field pea” can also refer to the plant known as cowpea, Southern pea, or black-eyed pea (though only some varieties are white with black spots). The scientific name for these is Vigna unguiculata subspecies unguiculata. (Subspecies sesquipedalis is known as yardlong bean or asparagus bean.) Cowpeas are grown more like beans than peas, in summer weather, and they are a great edible crop as well as a forage crop or cover crop.

So the moral of this is, as usual in gardening: know what you’re buying, and pay attention to scientific names. Also, if you want pretty flowers, Pisum sativum is not bad.

Flower colors vary, but purple is especially nice!

By Erica Smith, Montgomery County Master Gardener. Read more posts by Erica.

Getting Rid of Invasive Plants: Solarization, Smothering, Repeated Cutting, Herbicides?

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Asian honeysuckle has white flowers
Invasive Asian honeysuckle (Lonicera sp.). Photo: Rachel J. Rhodes, UME

Eliminating unwanted plants is often one of the most challenging chores that gardeners face. Not introducing invasive plants is the fastest and most economical way to make a positive impact, as once invasive plants are introduced to your garden, it can take many years to eliminate these invaders from your landscape. 

Invasive plants propagate and spread by many different methods, which makes controlling them difficult and different for each species. Please learn feasible control tactics provided by land-grant universities or Extension factsheets/webpages before starting. Fact-based research is the absolute first step in getting ahead of plant invaders. Often invasive plants cannot be controlled 100% in just one growing season, but preventing the plant from making seeds or spreading is better than doing nothing at all.

Questions to guide your research: 

  1. Get proper plant identification! Use Ask Extension, Local Extension Professionals, and Master Gardener Plant Clinics. Smartphone plant ID apps can give you some idea, but you should follow up and confirm the correct identification. Apps may be limited by photo quality and geographic area.
    1. Is the plant a woody perennial, herbaceous perennial, or annual? 
    2. Has the plant been a problem for several years in your landscape, or is it a relatively new concern? 
  2. You must know how it is reproducing/spreading in your particular situation. For example, if the plant reproduces from stem/root cuttings, the last action you want to take is to mow/weed-eat/till the roots, which would cause the plant to produce hundreds of new plants.  
  3. If controlling 100% is not a feasible option, determine how you can prevent the plants from spreading or allowing them to get stronger. 
  4. If you have an invasive plant in your landscape and you really enjoy it, learn how to prevent it from spreading. For example, the spread of some plants can be prevented by removing flowers/viable seeds so that wildlife does not consume and spread them, or so that wind/rain does not blow away the seeds. 
  5. Always include “MD Extension” with internet search engines to be sure that identification and control tactics specific to Maryland are being filtered to the top of your results.
purple and blue berries of invasive porcelainberry vines
Invasive porcelain-berry vines (Ampelopsis glandulosa var. brevipedunculata). Photo: Rachel J. Rhodes, UME

Three basic control options are categorized below.

Mechanical control

Mechanical control options are often the first step that people take in controlling unwanted plants; however, these are by far the most physically demanding and often lead to a high level of site disturbance. Examples of mechanical control are:

  1. Pulling  and digging.
  2. Suffocation or smothering with landscape fabric, mulch, cardboard, multiple layers of newspaper, anything to block the sunlight and prevent the plant from growing.
  3. Solarization: laying plastic over the plants to “cook” live plants and viable seeds with the heat that builds up underneath. 
  4. Cutting, repeated cutting, or mowing in hopes of weakening stored nutrients so that the plants can not regenerate. This is also done to remove the flowering/seed structures. 

Biological control 

Biological control options utilize something else that is alive—insects, fungi, grazing livestock animals, etc. More and more of these options are being explored; however, sometimes the control agent may be 100% specific to the problem plant, or sometimes it may be able to feed on other plants too, which is the case with the Kudzu bug.  

Kudzu bug (Megacopta cribraria). Photo: Russ Ottens, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org

Chemical control through herbicide application

  1. Foliar Applications
  2. Cut Stem or “Hack and Squirt” Treatments

Herbicides are a management tool that may be considered when other control measures have not been successful. Sometimes this control option provides the least amount of physical labor, low soil disturbance, and is more effective than other options. Pesticides can be overwhelming and intimidating, with misinformation and inaccurate “facts” being shared. If you would like to learn more about “mode of action” and how different herbicides are classified, check out this Herbicide Mode of Action link from Purdue.

A few questions that might help you determine if it’s time to explore herbicides as an option. 

  1. Have you tried mechanical or physical control options without success? 
  2. Would one application of herbicide save the soil on the site from being excavated, dug, or destroyed?  
  3. Always use the most appropriate chemical control option by finding the plant that you want to control on the product label and following the application instructions carefully.
  4. Remember, with any pesticide (herbicide, insecticide, fungicide, rodenticide, etc.), the Label is the LAW! This is true even with organic pesticides. 
  5. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is charged with approving, analyzing, and standing behind pesticides. Before approval, these herbicides are tested and labeled for use with specific instructions to minimize negative risk to yourself and the environment. Always use in accordance with the label and keep good records.
    1. Herbicides that are commercially available to purchase have been tested to know the recommended rates and residual activity in soils and on micro/macro organisms. There are a lot of unknowns with homemade solutions, so homemade “remedies” are not recommended.
Invasive winged burning bush (Euonymus alatus). Photo: Rachel J. Rhodes, UME

Disposal of invasive plants

The last step in controlling invasive plants is proper disposal. Leftover plant materials can lead to potential accidental new infestations.

Proper disposal guidance: 

  1. Burn– If your county/city allows the burning of yard debris, be sure to follow all safety regulations and restrictions and do not breathe the smoke.
  2. Pile– Fully dead/dried woody material that does not have seeds/fruits and is not covered in soil (which could allow it to sprout roots) can provide great nesting and shelter sites for wildlife- Read “The Value of a Pile of Sticks in Your Yard or Landscape”. 
  3. Dry or expose debris to intense heat– place debris in a black trash bag and let it “cook” for several weeks out in the hot sun, this will ensure that there are no viable seeds in the debris and all moisture is removed so that nothing can sprout. You can then add this to compost piles or dispose of it as you would “normal” landscape trimmings.
  4. Check with your county/city government to find out if invasive plants should go in your yard waste or regular trash.
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica)
Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus)

Let the particular plant that you are trying to control guide your management plan, and research the plant before you begin. Start control strategies on a small scale to see what works best and remember that many of the characteristics that led people to begin planting these invasives are the exact reasons that they are hard to control— some examples: wildlife resistance, good at spreading, breaking dormancy before natives early in the season. Also, keep in mind that many invasive species are a long-term fight and will require perseverance and, for best results, will require the use of different control tactics. 

Lastly, once you successfully control the problem species, have a clear plan of what you will do with this space in your landscape. Installing new plants or keeping the area mulched will help prevent soil erosion or new infestations of weeds. Here is a list of recommended native plants for Maryland. 

Additional resources: 

Removing Invasive Plants and Planting Natives in Maryland – University of Maryland Extension

(PDF) Managing Invasive Plants: Methods of Control – New England Wildflower Society

(PDF) Guidelines for Disposal of Terrestrial Invasive Plants – University of Connecticut

Everyone can help in the fight against invasive plants! Check the University of Maryland Extension website for an Introduction to Invasive Plants in Maryland and more information on how to reduce them. The absolute best way is to just never plant or introduce them into your landscape. 

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.

Topping Harms the Health of Trees

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A topped tree growing water sprouts. Photo: UME-HGIC

I love trees. I’m betting you do, too. They’re striking and statuesque. They shade us and inspire us, offer wildlife habitat, and provide a backbone to our landscapes.  

But sometimes bad things happen to good trees. Well-intentioned but harmful practices such as topping threaten their health.

Pruning is good for trees. Done well, it can help to control size, remove potentially hazardous branches and improve both appearance and health. But bad pruning is harmful and can kill trees.

Topping – whacking off large limbs indiscriminately to stubs – is a very bad practice indeed. It’s damaging, dangerous, and expensive.

According to Dr. Alex Shigo, the world-renowned scientist and author of books on tree care, topping is the most serious injury you can inflict on a tree.  

Why do people top trees? Most have trees too big for their space and feel topping is a good way to control size and prevent hazards. It’s not. Topping weakens trees.

In fact, a topped tree is much more prone to problems, including poor health and an inclination to drop branches or fall.    

Leaves are food factories for trees. Since topping removes much of the leaf-bearing crown of a tree, it literally starves it.  

Topped trees react by forcing out fistfuls of thin shoots around the cut to make more leaves.  Creating these shoots drains even more energy.

A stressed tree is more vulnerable to insect and disease problems. The large, open wounds topping creates invite attack.  

Good pruning cuts are made where a branch meets the trunk or another branch. Trees can heal this type of cut. Topping cuts in the middle of a branch create ugly stubs that often don’t heal.  

Multiple large cuts – a staple of topping – create serious wounds. The exposed wood often decays and creates a pathway for infection. Columns of decay from repeat topping make a tree more likely to fall.

The multiple thin shoots that form near a topping cut are weak and bring problems all their own. They aren’t anchored in deep tissue like a normal branch, so they tend to break.  

The thick regrowth of new branches also makes a tree top-heavy and more likely to catch the wind in a storm. 

Also, topping is expensive. Topped trees need to be pruned regularly due to the rapid regrowth of all those skinny branches. Repeat toppings are more costly in the long run than proper professional pruning.  

Topping has hidden costs, too. Weakened trees are more likely to cause damage by falling or dropping branches. And disfigured trees do nothing to enhance property values. 

According to the International Society of Arboriculture, well-maintained, healthy trees can add 10 to 20 percent to the value of your property, while topped trees reduce value.  

If a tree has overgrown its space, know that there are better options, including crown reduction or removal and replacement with a smaller tree. Just be safe and leave the big jobs for the pros.    

Here’s our fact sheet on tree pruning that tells you more.   

Topped trees are ugly, unhealthy, hazardous, and costly. Please don’t top your trees. I want you to enjoy happy, healthy trees for a very long time. 

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

What is Low-Till Gardening?

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In today’s post, I am going to focus on how to embrace low-till gardening systems, but first a quick refresher on soil.

The importance of soil

  1. Soil is a living and complex natural covering of the Earth. 
  2. Soil acts as a sponge to absorb water, nutrients, pollutants, and carbon. 
  3. Many aspects of soil cannot be changed, but properties can be managed to provide the elements needed to grow desired plants and it is the pillar of plant life in your landscape/ecosystem.
    1. Chemical, physical, and biological components make up the living soil. 
    2. Soil scientists are only beginning to understand the complex biological systems and how important they are to overall soil health.
  4. Topsoil is the usable portion for gardeners. Thus, all management techniques should aim to protect and enhance this valuable layer.
a row of plants in a freshly tilled garden
What you might see in a traditional in-ground garden with soil tilled in between the rows of desired plants. Image by Nadezhda56 from Pixabay

Pros and cons of tilling garden soil

In-ground gardening techniques have long been the method of vegetable gardening used in large-scale production. This system focuses on the mechanical tilling of a section of the earth. This soil is prepared and then seeds or transplants are placed in rows. In between these rows of plants is the walkway, which is either tilled at regular intervals or mulched to prevent weeds from growing. This technique works well but results in high levels of soil disturbance. Mechanical tillers require the use of a motor or a large amount of physical labor/exertion if done by hand. Once the soil is tilled, it is more likely to suffer from soil compaction. 

100% no-till gardening options

For alternative gardening methods that are 100% no-till, learn more by visiting these links:

Growing in Containers– University of Maryland Extension

Raised Beds– University of Maryland Extension

Lasagna Gardening or Sheet Mulching– Oregon State University Extension

Although tilling is the easiest and fastest way to create new planting areas and is also used as a weed control option, mechanical tilling of the soil (especially multiple times throughout the season) breaks down its structure and can reduce soil quality.

Negative effects of repeated mechanical tillage

Repeated tillage:

  1. Breaks down organic matter. The more often you are churning the soil the more the natural structure can be degraded and compacted. It disturbs natural pathways for water flow and for soil macro- and microorganisms. 
  2. Reduces soil stability by breaking apart aggregates.
  3. Exposes rocks and deeper layers of soil that are less developed.
  4. Exposes the seed bank of the soil to light and allows new weed seeds to germinate.  
an an exapleof a no-till garden with grassy paths between plantings
Image by Stéphane CHADOURNE from Pixabay

Differences between conventional and low-till systems

Low-till gardening systems often look different than traditional gardening systems. Low-till management techniques focus more on installing permanent pathways that are not disturbed yearly. These pathways may be outlined with stones or other permanent items. In the actual planting bed, low tilling is done with a handheld tool to create the planting space. Often these tilled areas would be smaller in size. 

Implement these practices slowly and expand as you have success. 

  1. Use a broadfork to loosen the topsoil, but do not dig deeper than necessary. This allows the natural pathways made by micro- and macroorganisms (earthworm tunnels) and plant roots to stay intact. 
  2. Keep the soil covered. Use mulch to prevent erosion. Mulch sourced from your landscape such as pine needles, grass clippings, clean straw, newspaper, cardboard, etc. can be used.
    1. Mother Nature always wants the soil to be covered. If you disturb the soil and do not cover it with mulch or other weed barrier, plants, or seeds, then weeds will grow. Wind and rain can quickly dissipate topsoil— replacing one inch of natural topsoil can take 500-1000 years! If the soil is covered it should not be as easy to wash or blow away.
    2. Add organic matter– whatever you have readily available. Mushroom compost, bagged cow manure, homemade compost, leaves, grass clippings, kitchen waste, etc. 
    3. Plant crops (cover crops, green manure) that will be cut down and left to decompose naturally in the soil or lightly turned in with a broadfork.
      1. Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) and other plants can provide large amounts of nutrients when used as mulch.
  3. Fertilize and amend the soil based on analysis results. Test your soil every 3 years.
    1. Add fertilizer sources through amendments.
  4. Till or disturb the soil as close to planting time as possible. This helps to minimize the time when no plant roots are helping to stabilize the soil. 

More details on improving soil structure can be found in the blog post:  How Can You Improve Your Soil?

bean plants growing in a no-till garden
Malabar spinach growing with corn. Example of companion planting in a no-till garden. Image by MAURÍCIO UCHÔA Bruttos from Pixabay

More on low-till gardens

Low-till is part of some permaculture practices. Permaculture practices have a goal of creating “permanent” growing spaces that utilize natural self-sustaining systems. Some of these permaculture practices can be adapted and used in our landscapes, especially those that include native plant areas, perennial fruits, and herbs. Other terms that incorporate these ideas and principles are food forests or forest gardening.

Tillage is a good tool, just remember to use it at the right time and for the right purpose to capture the benefits. Good soil management practices may be open to interpretation based on your personal goals for your garden space and remember that what makes sense in your landscape doesn’t always have to match what others are doing. If you are seeing positive results, then keep trying new techniques.

I hope that this Spring finds you dreaming and excited about the upcoming growing season and making a positive impact in adding diversity to your landscape. 

Resources for more information

Soil management in home gardens and landscapes | Penn State University

No-till gardening keeps soil — and plants — healthy | Oregon State University

Low and no-till gardening | University of New Hampshire

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.

Winter Weeds Creep up on Gardeners

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You can hear them cackling. The winter weeds are laughing because they’re sure you haven’t noticed them.  

They think you’ll just stroll by and not notice them lurking in your lawn and beds, sneaking and snaking their way across your landscape.  

The loudest howls come from the mighty few that have the audacity to be unfurling a few flowers or a smattering of seedheads.   

Think this is fiction? Nope. Weeds classified as winter annuals are having a field day out there and they spell big headaches for our springtime gardens.

tiny white flowers on common chickweed plants
Common chickweed (Stellaria media), a winter annual weed that vexes many local gardeners. Photo: K. Mathias, University of Maryland


Winter annuals germinate in the fall to kick-start their growing. Cold weather slows them down some, but in milder winters they do some serious expanding to vex us in the spring.

Don’t let them. Get out there and show them who’s the boss.  

I got a call from a client whose lawn was being eaten by henbit (Lamium amplexicaule), a notorious winter annual. Its scalloped leaves and purple flowers make us think it belongs, but it doesn’t. Be merciless.  

purple flowers of henbit
Henbit’s charming name belies an aggressive habit. Photo: UME – Home & Garden Information Center


The yellow flowers of common groundsel (Senecio vulgaris) are popping up around our offices. It’s another one that needs to go. 

Common chickweed looks innocent enough with its tiny white star-shaped flowers. Don’t be fooled.  

Chickweed, purple deadnettle (Lamium purpureum), and hairy bittercress (Cardamine hirsuta) have all done well in the last few years. While their names are lovely, they have terrible habits.  

white flowers are blooming on hairy bittercress
Like most winter annuals, hairy bittercress makes abundant seeds. Photo: Betty Marose


So how do you banish these beasts? Knowledge is power. Scout your gardens and look for plants that are out of place and looking particularly vigorous. They might be winter annuals.

Next, use a good resource to identify them. One is our Home & Garden Information Center website which has photos and management tips.

You also can send me photos for identification and advice on cultural, mechanical, and chemical controls.  

Cultural controls focus on how you manage your landscape. Many lawn weeds can be controlled by beefing up your lawn to stave off interlopers.  

Other preventive cultural controls include planting tightly, mulching, and using groundcovers or cover crops.

Mechanical controls are physical controls such as pulling, digging, or mowing to keep weeds from making seeds.  

It’s particularly important to control winter annuals before they set seed. Annuals make up for the fact that they only live one year by making ridiculously large amounts of seeds.  

Beat them at their game. 

I generally stress organic, non-chemical controls. A good reference is our fact sheet on managing weeds without chemicals.

But sometimes it is necessary to reach for a chemical herbicide to control weeds. I can recommend ones that work.    

Using chemicals is all about applying the right product the right way at the right time so they work and have minimal environmental impact.  

Always, always follow the directions on the product label. More is not better and can cause harm. 

Break the cycle of winter annual weeds in your landscape. Use all the tools in a smart gardener’s toolbox:  prevention, identification, and informed controls.    

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Dream Up New Gardens This Winter

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a snow covered garden in January

“Anyone who thinks that gardening begins in the spring and ends in the fall is missing the best part of the whole year. For gardening begins in January with the dream.”

– Josephine Nuese

January is the month of garden dreams. The winter pause gives us time to think, to plan, to ponder. How can we make our gardens better, more productive, more beautiful and sustainable, more the gardens of our dreams?

A garden is never done. This idea eludes new gardeners. But those of us with a few gardening years behind us realize that we are always pursuing an ideal.  

Misty memories recall our grandmother’s garden. Trips to public gardens inspire. Friends’ gardens spark ideas. And so our gardens evolve. 

These changes are part of the joy of gardening. As gardeners, we are always learning and adapting.  

When we bring into our garden an idea that we’ve seen elsewhere, it isn’t stealing. It’s imitation, the ultimate flattery. Soon our garden becomes a memory garden, a reflection of special people and places.  

So as the snow falls, the wind howls, the rain whips our windows, we dream of better gardens.  

We flip through photos of gardens we’ve visited. Ah, yes. There is that arbor we fancied for the perennial bed. We must have that peony. And that birdbath would be perfect in that corner.   

That jars a memory of a berry-laden bush in a friend’s yard that a mockingbird favored. We make the call, get the name, and add it to our wish list for spring nursery visits.

Seed catalogs tumble from our mailboxes. Ripe with ideas, they make our dreams flavorful as we salivate over heirloom tomatoes, Thai basil, and hot peppers. We rush to put together an order before the best varieties sell out. 

A crimson flash catches our eye as a cardinal glides by the window. An arc of ornamental grasses would enliven that view, wouldn’t it? Grasses sway in our minds as we add them to our list.  

Seeing a copy of Garden Revolution on our bookshelf, we are reminded of our New Year’s resolution to be more sustainable.  

We sketch ideas for a compost pile and download instructions for making a rain barrel. Onto our shopping list go soaker hoses and insecticidal soap.

We remember from a garden talk the suggestion to add seating to our gardens – places to rest, relax, and enjoy the lovely views we create. Our wish list grows to include a wooden garden bench.    

Winter is the time to dream of a garden that feeds body and soul, that delivers a bountiful harvest of food and beauty. So pour a cup of tea, wrap yourself in an afghan, and dream on. 

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Proper Care Extends the Beauty of Holiday Plants

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red poinsettia plants
Well-kept poinsettias can bloom for up to 8 weeks.

Poinsettias and amaryllis and paperwhites, oh my. These holiday beauties add grace to our homes but need proper care to keep up their show. 

Caring for Poinsettias

Poinsettias are the divas of holiday decor. Their colorful bracts – modified leaves that change color – deliver an instant “wow” factor. But like all divas, they can be challenging.  

They like bright, not direct, light and prefer daytime temps between 60 and 70 degrees and nighttime temps in the mid-fifties. They hate drafts, so keep them away from heat vents, fireplaces, doors, and windows.   

Water them only when the soil is dry. Let the water run through the bottom of the pot. Good drainage is crucial.  

Foil wraps are pretty but problematic. So poke a hole in the foil for drainage and set your poinsettias on a pretty plate or tray. A well-kept poinsettia will bloom for six to eight weeks.  

I toss my poinsettias at the end of the season (cue the gasps), but determined, thrifty, or thrill-seeking gardeners keep them going from year to year. Here’s how it’s done.

Cut back your poinsettias in early May to 3 inches and repot them into a soilless potting mix. 

Move them outdoors after all danger of frost has passed, usually mid-May. Start them out in the shade and introduce more sun over several weeks. When the new growth is 2 inches tall, start fertilizing every month.  

Pinch or prune out the tips of branches when the new growth reaches 4 inches and again after the new growth reaches 2 or 3 inches. Stop pinching in early September.

Bring your poinsettias inside in late September before the nighttime temperatures dip below 60 degrees. Cut back on fertilizer and put the plants in bright light.  

Now comes the fun part.  

Poinsettias need a period of darkness since shorter days trigger their “flowering.” So, put yours in a dark closet or box for at least 14 hours every day until Thanksgiving. 5:00 p.m. to 7:00 a.m. works well.   

Next, bring your poinsettias back into full-time light and get ready to enjoy another show.  

Caring for Paperwhites

Another holiday favorite, paperwhites deliver a sweet perfume from dozens of white shooting star-like blooms for a month or two. 

If you received paperwhite bulbs as a gift, choose a shallow pot for forcing them into bloom. Put an inch of sterile potting mix or gravel in the pot. They grow well in both. 

Tuck the bulbs in tight, pointed ends up. Add soil or gravel until half the bulbs are covered. Water thoroughly and often to keep the bulbs moist.  

Put them in a cool, well-lit room until the shoots are an inch tall. Then move them to a warmer spot.  If their stems topple, support them with thin stakes or chopsticks tied with raffia or ribbon.  

Paperwhites bloom only once, so toss the bulbs after you’ve enjoyed their show. Sorry, no encores.

Amaryllis

Amaryllis is another holiday bulb that delivers drama. For tips on planting and care, snag our fact sheet.

red and white amaryllis flowers
Amaryllis delivers drama with clusters of colorful flowers up to 6 inches across. 

Enjoy all your holiday plants and time spent with friends and family in this most special time of year.   

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.