Maryland Grows

Welcome to the Year of Container Gardening!

February 4, 2026Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

2026 is Grow It Eat It’s Year of Container Gardening! Growing in containers (pots, planters, boxes, bags, etc.) is one of the best approaches for vegetable gardening beginners. It’s also a terrific way to sneak in a few more plants even if you already have a garden. The key word in container gardening is flexibility. Nearly everyone can find a place where they live to grow something edible in a container.

Different sized containers grouped together on a deck growing a mixture of edibles and flowers like pansies and marigolds. — *Container plants on my deck*

Maybe you live in an apartment, but have a balcony or patio, or even just a sunny window. You might have a small backyard with no room for planting, but you’ve got a deck, or a spot on a driveway or other paved area. Some people even put containers on an accessible rooftop! (Make sure it can support the weight of multiple pots full of soil if you’re going this route.)

The other big advantage of growing in containers is that you control the soil mixture. Don’t use soil directly out of the ground for containers; it’s too dense and will be full of bugs and weed seeds. You can buy potting soil at any garden center or big box store, or if you’re ambitious you can buy the ingredients and mix your own to order. Different plants may prefer different combinations of peat or coir plus compost, perlite or vermiculite, or other materials. Commercial potting mixes are usually pretty good for all common garden plants, though.

Because you’re not adding weed seeds to your growing mix, you will barely need to weed your containers, which is a great advantage. Pest problems may be lessened as well.

There are some basic rules to follow when growing in containers:

Use the sun. Most edible garden plants require plenty of sunshine. Find the sunny spots in your growing area and place your pots there. If you don’t have a spot with more than six hours of sun available, you should still be able to grow some spring crops like peas or spinach (especially if the lack of summer sun is explained by trees that don’t leaf out until late spring), and lettuce grows well in only a few hours of direct sun or indirect light all day. But look around! Maybe you have a sunny location you hadn’t considered.
Fertilize. Container plants need nutrients, and they will only find them in potting soils for a short while. Establish a regular feeding schedule according to package directions, and stick to it.
Water. This is very important! Plant roots dry out much faster in containers than in in-ground or raised bed gardens. Rain doesn’t always reach the soil through the leaves of plants. Check the soil regularly to see if it’s moist, and if not, give your plants a drink. On hot summer days, you may need to water daily or even more than once a day. If you go away, arrange for someone else to keep your container garden watered.

The other important rule is to use appropriate containers. They should be food-safe (designed to hold edible crops), well-drained (make sure they have holes in the bottom and are not sitting in a saucer unless you’re prepared to empty it), and large enough for the crop.

2 large plastic garbage cans growing large tomato plants. There is a Grow It Eat it sign advertising UMD Extension resources. — *These containers are definitely large enough for tomatoes*!

Get bigger pots than you think you’ll need. Guidelines will tell you to use a pot of at least five gallons to grow tomatoes; unless you are growing dwarf tomatoes, your plants will be spindly and minimally productive in that size of container. For an indeterminate tomato plant, ten gallons would be better. Grow eggplants or peppers in those five-gallon pots.

Different style containers with various plants (vegetables, herbs, and flowers) arranged in a trial garden space. — *A variety of container types in a trial garden*

Where do you find these containers? You don’t necessarily have to spend tons of money. Check discount stores; join freecycle/buy-nothing groups; source five-gallon food-grade buckets from restaurants and grocery stores. If you’re handy, you can build your own salad table or planter out of wood. Fabric growing bags are another great low-cost option; many online gardening retailers and garden centers stock them.

What plants can you grow in containers? Just about anything, if the container is big enough. You may want to seek out vegetable varieties that are bred specifically for growing in small spaces.

Start a new adventure this year! We’ll post more about specific container plants, techniques and methods, and solving problems as the year goes on.

By Erica Smith, Montgomery County Master Gardener. Read more posts by Erica.

Avoid the Holiday Plant Blues

January 25, 2026Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

A cluster of red and white blooms display on Amaryllis stalks. — Amaryllis sport large lily-like flower clusters.
Photo: Home & Garden Information Center

There should be a support group for those determined to keep holiday plants like poinsettias and cyclamen looking fabulous long past the holidays. We’ll call it the Post-Holiday Plant Blues Club.

Okay, some holiday plants like Christmas cactus are pretty easy. Others, not so
much. But if you’re willing to give it a go, I’m happy to give you the low-down on what each needs.

Poinsettias

red poinsettia plants — Rich red poinsettias are a classic holiday plant.
Photo: Home and Garden Information Center

Poinsettias are tropical plants, so they like it warm and moist. Put them in bright
– but not direct – light with no drafts. Water when the soil feels dry. If your plant is
wrapped in foil, ditch the foil and set the plant in a pot so water can drain. Or poke holes
in the foil and set it in a saucer. You’ll get several weeks of blooms, maybe more if you
speak sweetly to it.

Amaryllis

Amaryllis bulbs often come dipped in wax for an instant gift that does not need soil or water. Typically, they bloom quickly like this. If planting, you would carefully remove the wax coating by peeling it off.
Photo: Miri Talabac, UMD Extension – HGIC

Amaryllis sends up clusters of large lily-like blooms on thick stems. If you received an amaryllis in bud or bloom, put it in a sunny spot in a room that stays 60 degrees or warmer. Water when the top of the soil is dry. If you got an amaryllis bulb as a gift, plant it in potting soil in a container just larger than the bulb. Allow a third of the bulb to stick up above the soil, with its pointed tip – amusingly called the nose – up. Water thoroughly and move it to a sunny spot when it sprouts. Amaryllis bloom about four weeks after they sprout and keep blooming for
about a month.

Cyclamen

Cyclamen hold their delicate red, white or pink blooms high above their leaves like fistfuls of scarves fluttering in the breeze.
Unfortunately, they are more than a little fussy. They like temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees and very bright light, conditions that are rare in most homes. Water them like a violet, from the bottom with room-temperature water. I love this plant, but we rarely have a long-term relationship. A gorgeous pink one blooms on my windowsill, mocking me with its fickleness. I look great! I flop. I perk up! I flop. Such a drama queen. But a half-price sale lured me into trying once again.

Photo: Annette Cormany, UMD Extension

Christmas Cactus

At the other end of the care spectrum are oh-so-easy Christmas cactus. They like
bright, indirect light but need more water than their desert cousins. In fact, they are
tropical epiphytes that grow in trees in their natural habitat. I water mine weekly.
Christmas cactus also wins the top prize for longevity among holiday plants. I know
many people who have had them for years, generously sharing cuttings.
I once flew Christmas cactus cuttings home in my luggage, stumping everyone at
the airport security scan. What is that?! I did a little show and tell, and they let me keep
my treasure.

Unlike Christmas cactus, most holiday plants are fickle. Yes, poinsettias,
amaryllis and cyclamen can be kept year-round and forced to bloom again after varying
periods of darkness and dormancy. But honestly, I never bother.

It’s just too much trouble to track X hours of darkness for Y weeks at Z
temperatures. Plants are supposed to be fun. So, my holiday plants are just that: holiday
plants that add color and beauty to the season. I just chucked my poinsettia. Don’t judge.

However, if you love a challenge and want to try to keep these plants going, here
are some links with care tips for maximizing their beauty long-term.

Poinsettas – UMD Extension
Amaryllis Care – UMD Extension
Growing and caring for amaryllis – University of Minnesota Extension
Amaryllis, Hippeastrum – University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension

Happy nurturing!

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. Read more by Annette.

Create a Stunning Boxwood Tree for Holiday Decor

December 20, 2025December 22, 2025Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

Boxwoods have graced gardens for thousands of years and become part of our holiday traditions. Native to Europe and Asia, boxwoods were used in Egyptian gardens as early as 4,000 BC. Ancient Romans and Greeks used the fine-grained wood to carve intricate combs, utensils, flutes, and, yes, boxes.

Boxwoods came to the Americas in the 1600s with European colonists. Today boxwood joins holly as an evergreen symbol of the holidays. What better way to honor its rich tradition than creating your own tabletop boxwood tree. It’s easier than you think.

You’ll need:

boxwood cuttings
pruners
floral foam block (the kind that absorbs water)
a knife
shallow waterproof container (which fits the end of the foam block snugly)
wire or floral picks
Your choice of decorations

Instructions:

When you’re ready to go, assemble all your supplies on a waterproof surface.

Soak your floral foam in a bucket for a few hours to a day before you make your tree.
Use your pruners to fill a bucket with boxwood cuttings, resting their stems in a few inches of water. When you make your tree, you’ll re-cut those stems into four- to six-inch lengths.
Cut your boxwood the day before you make your tree to let the cut stems drink heavily. And yes, I said the stems, not you! Okay, a little cider is fine. Or mulled wine!
- No – you aren’t harming your boxwoods by pruning them now. A late fall or winter pruning helps to shape them for next year. Just go easy, cutting no more than a third of the plant.
Cut the sides of one end of a block of floral foam at an angle to create a tree shape, leaving a flat top at the peak. Put the wider uncut side of the floral foam into your container.
Starting at the bottom, push cut boxwood stems into the foam in a circle around the base. Work your way up the foam, using shorter pieces as you go. Some find it easier to establish the base and top, then fill in.
- Push stems into the foam only once. Moving them damages the foam. Stripping off some leaves at the base of stems helps them to go in more easily.

Tip: Stand back often as you work to look at the shape. Perfection is overrated, but it should have an overall tree shape. Fill in any gaps. When you’re done, no green foam should show.

Voila! You’ve just made your first boxwood tree.

Now comes the fun part: decorating it!

Use floral picks or wire to attach ribbons and bows, pinecones and picks, balls, beads, birds, or other baubles. My last tree wore vintage lace, star anise, berries, and strands of pearls. When you’re done – and smiling, no doubt – water your boxwood tree. Put your finger in the container and slowly water from the top until you feel water on your finger. A well-watered tree can last for a month or two.

A decorated and fully assembled boxwood tree featuring a red cardinal at the top. — Holiday boxwood trees are unique, long-lasting holiday decorations.

I tip my hat to Master Gardener Dusty Graham for teaching me how to make boxwood trees, so I could now teach you. Thanks, Dusty!

I hope you’ll try your hand at making a boxwood tree or two. They add elegance to your holiday home and make wonderful gifts.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. Read more by Annette.

Q&A: How can I fix flowering issues with my Christmas cactus?

December 19, 2025December 19, 2025Emily PorterLeave a comment

Christmas Cactus with a few dark pink blooms near a window. — This Christmas cactus may be struggling to bloom due its location in the home with lower light conditions.
Photo: Ask Extension, UMD HGIC.

Q: This year, I am again having problems with the flowers on my Christmas Cactus. The plant gets an abundance of flower buds, but most of the ones that flower do not flower completely. Many partially flower, but then start drooping before fully blooming and opening. Also, many of the buds fall off before blooming. I am careful not overwater, and the plant is in a window facing the east.

A: It can be difficult to know for sure what is causing the symptoms, but possibilities include low ambient humidity (these cacti are native to jungle environments, where they grow as epiphytes on the trees like orchids do), temperature fluctuations, under-watering, and possibly exposure to ethylene gas, which can come from a group of ripe fruit and leaks in gas appliances.

When watering, make sure the potting mix is thoroughly rehydrated, and excess water freely drains out of the bottom drain holes. To boost humidity, consider using a humidifier (misting foliage will not be effective).

An east-facing window doesn’t give the plant much light (especially this time of year and if the plant isn’t directly in front of the pane), so if you have an option to grow it in a west- or south-facing window, that may help with growth and vigor overall, even if it may not change much with regards to flower bud dropping. In fact, that may need to wait until after the flowering period, as Iowa State notes that “to avoid flower bud drop, do not move the plant during flower bud development,” though it can be moved once flowers are opening. Michigan State mentions a couple of other causes, such as exposing the plant to light that interrupts its required 13 hours of darkness (a seasonal trigger for flowering) and exposing the plant to temperature swings (drafts), particularly below about 50 degrees. The linked page has more details about the darkness period.

You can also refer to a blog post from a few years back for some further reading: Christmas cacti make lovely gifts and decor by Annette Cormany.

By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.

Okra is Summer

December 12, 2025December 10, 2025Maryland Grows4 Comments

As I write this, it’s a cold rainy day in early December, and I’m thinking about okra.

This sounds bonkers. You can’t even buy okra in grocery stores right now, and the only crop I’m harvesting from my garden is turnips. But I firmly believe that we should think about summer vegetables in the winter, at least for purposes of garden planning. The time to consider your okra seed purchase is not August, or July, or even June, when you might want to be planting it. If you’re ordering from a seed catalog (and you will get a far better choice of varieties that way, since stores usually offer one or possibly two kinds of okra seed), you need to plan ahead. Okay, maybe not as early as December. I’ve been thinking about okra because I plan to feature it in my own community garden plot next year, and I’ll also be in charge of a bed at the Derwood Demo Garden.

Frankly, we’ve underserved okra at Derwood in the past. We tend to think of it late in the planning process, or maybe not at all, and stick in about three plants in some less-than-ideal location. Okra will not be productive if it doesn’t get enough space to grow, or enough sun, and even under better conditions three plants are not sufficient for a decent harvest. Give it what it needs, however, and it will thrive. Okra is one of those rare crops that truly loves our hot, humid summers.

The other thing okra needs, that we’ve found hard to provide at the demo garden, is frequent harvesting. The pods grow fast and turn hard and inedible, and picking once a week is definitely not enough; we end up composting half our crop. We’ll need to get to the garden more often, but I doubt it’ll be more than twice a week, so as I’m looking at varieties to order seed, I’m concentrating on those that claim pods are tender even at larger sizes.

Not everyone loves okra (more on that below) but if you do, it is worth growing your own. Here are some things to think about as you peruse the seed catalogs and plan your garden:

Some catalogs also only have two sorts of okra available. That’s okay, they are probably well-tested ones (Clemson Spineless and Red Burgundy, I’m looking at you). But if you want to have a broader choice, check out catalogs that feature heirloom varieties, or that originate in the south, where okra is a beloved crop.
Read the descriptions carefully. Some varieties are meant for small gardens or container growing, and max out at two or three feet; some will be eight feet tall and three feet wide. Most are in the middle. The pods also vary considerably in length and thickness. Colors vary as well (green, red (anywhere from burgundy to orange), or green with red highlights).
You can start seeds either in pots or directly in the garden, but read up on seed scarification. Okra seeds are tough and will need to be soaked and/or nicked or roughened up before they will germinate.
Okra likes it hot, so wait until late May or early June to put it in the garden. Or later, if you’re pulling out a spring crop and have bed space available. Check days to maturity to figure out how late you can start a variety; you’ll want to start harvesting at least by mid-August, so for a 60 day crop, plant by mid-June.
Give the plants full sun and plenty of space (about 18 inches apart for larger varieties). They are fairly drought-resistant when full-grown, but of course they need watering well as seedlings.
Okra flowers are gorgeous, by the way, so make sure you enjoy them!
Harvest frequently. Every other day is ideal. You can save up the pods for a few days in the fridge and cook them all at once. If I’m not certain whether a pod is too tough to eat, I give it a squeeze; if it makes a cracking sound, it goes in the compost.

All right, but isn’t okra slimy? Or, to use a perhaps even less attractive word, mucilaginous? It certainly can be, if it’s not treated right. Maybe in soups and stews that’s okay, especially in whatever favorite okra dish you may have grown up with, but if the sliminess turns you off, here are some ways to mitigate the mucus.

Young okra is great eaten raw in a salad, with dips, or as a snack while standing in the garden, and it’s fresh and crunchy and not slimy at all.
Traditional breaded and fried okra is terrific and if there is slime, you don’t notice it. Probably you don’t want to eat it this way every day, but it’s a fantastic treat. You can also use an air fryer to avoid all that oil.
If you’re frying okra without a crisp coating to distract you, here’s a secret: keep it dry. Wash it and then rub it thoroughly in a dish towel to get rid of any moisture. Make sure the cutting board and the knife are dry before cutting into the okra. You can either toss it in oil and seasonings before putting it in the pan, or place it in an oiled pan and season there, but make sure no water-based liquid touches it. The slime doesn’t develop in its absence. Air fryers work here too.

I hope you’ll join me in thinking about okra for next summer!

By Erica Smith, Montgomery County Master Gardener. Read more posts by Erica.

Q&A: Should I Avoid Cut Nandina Berry Decor?

December 9, 2025December 4, 2025christa12001 Comment

Two bundles of cut winter greens featuring red berries. — Winterberry branches in mixed greens bunches.
Photo credit: Miri Talabac

Q: Are Nandina berries okay to use in holiday decor? I love their bright color and long-lasting berries, but I heard they may be invasive.

A: I would not use them, since yes, Nandina domestica is invasive in our region. While observations of the species growing in natural areas suggest it hasn’t run as rampant as other invasive shrubs (Multiflora Rose, various honeysuckle species, Autumn Olive, etc.), we should not assume it will stay that way as the climate changes. For example, a decade ago, I didn’t notice Mahonia seedlings to the extent that I do now. They are easy to see in deciduous woodlands in winter, with their evergreen, holly-like leaves on shrubs that are short enough for deer to ravage if they were actually willing to eat them.

For colorful berries in winter holiday arrangements, Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata) is a commonly available alternative, and the species is native across the state. (The forms grown for cut branch use are cultivars that produce larger or more prolific berries than wild forms.) The berries should last from when cut branches are first sold for the season (usually early December, at least from local farms) to when you compost the aging arrangement after the new year. As with most cut holiday greens, Winterberry branches hold up best when kept cool and out of direct sunlight.

Other hollies, like Foster Holly (Ilex x attenuata ‘Fosteri’), can also be used for showy branch cuttings, and the hybrid’s leaves are more slender and less prickly than American Holly or other evergreen species. It may be harder to find cut Foster Holly boughs, though, especially since a farm will need to reach high branches to harvest. A red accent to a greens arrangement can also be added via cut stems of Redtwig Dogwood, though overall they’re a darker red color than holly berries. There are native (Cornus stolonifera, which is rare in Maryland) and non-native (Cornus alba and Cornus sanguinea) species and cultivars available on the market, which vary in stem color and brightness. If you grow your own for harvesting, it’s the youngest wood that has the richest bark color; older stems are less showy, which is why older shrubs are often cut back every few years to force more colorful regrowth.

‘Tis the Season to Upcycle: Winter Solstice Container Gardening

December 5, 2025December 5, 2025Emily Porter2 Comments

Last weekend, I was doing the usual seasonal clutter sort and purge, and I discovered several partially used bags of planting material in the garage and a whole lot of vintage stuff piling up around the house that needed to be redistributed before holiday guests arrived. What better time to design a Winter Solstice container garden to brighten our porch entryway? It was time to clear out all of the gardening tools that had piled up in that corner, anyway!

I visited my local native plant nursery and found some deeply discounted, cold-tolerant native plants with which to deck the halls (or, in my case, the front porch). Wanting to create a layered effect, I searched out examples of ground cover, rushes, sedges, ferns, and small shrubs, going for as much color as this transitional time can offer.

Decorative wooden planter featuring native plants with brightly colored stems, evergreen foliage, and red berries.

To my delight, I found a small young pussy willow (Salix discolor) with reddish branches, an intriguing Soft Rush “corkscrew” variety (Juncus effusus var.), some Appalachian Barren Strawberry (Waldsteinia fragarioides), Broadleaf Sedge (Carex platyphylla), Coral Bells (Heuchera americana), and abundant berrying Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens). Any number of native plants could be used to achieve a similar effect, depending on what is available locally. Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea), American Holly (Ilex opaca), Winterberry (Ilex verticillata), Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), and Pretty Sedge (Carex woodii) would all be great Maryland native options.

Some of what I found on clearance were “nativars,” cultivated varieties of native plants, or are endemic to other ecoregions of Maryland, so I may not be inclined to put them all in the ground, but I’m comfortable with using them in a lovely container planting like this. With more advanced planning next year, I’ll pre-order more local, native “straight” species.

Close up of a drill adding drainage holes to the bottom of a wooden barrel.

My discount plant haul was so large, though, that I needed to upgrade my container from the old terra cotta pot I had on hand to a re-purposed oak whiskey barrel I found at a local hardware store. Its aroma indicated that it was the real deal, no imported factory knock-off! This did require drilling some holes for drainage, though, to protect the barrel against freeze and thaw, and water ponding at the bottom.

I added potting soil with a small amount of leftover 50/50 peat/sand mix over a layer of small rocks to retain soil in the pot while allowing for drainage, then it was time to plant!

Close up of a mass of roots from a container plant.

Following a vigorous growing season, my new plants were more than a little root-bound, so I trimmed the root ends with garden shears to allow me to ease the plants out of their nursery pots, then gave each root ball a light massage between my palms.

Everything nestled into the container well, and I was able to tuck it all in with some small scraps of moss left over from an earlier project, for insulation and moisture retention. I finished the display off with a green Jarrahdale pumpkin that will eventually become a homemade pie and some vintage decor I had around the house, along with a colorful watering can that reminds me to water.

Close up of plants in a container garden with a small decorative owl.

I was pleased with the final result as a way to celebrate the transition from fall to winter and brighten the entryway of our front porch.

Container gardening is a great way for small-space gardeners to get into growing native plants throughout the seasons, as well.

Larger view of the Winter Solstice container featuring various plants with different textures.

If you try Winter Solstice container gardening this year, please drop us a note or picture below in the comments!

Photos & Text: Stacy Small-Lorenz, Ph.D. University of Maryland Extension | Statewide Specialist for Residential Landscape Ecology

Read more posts by Stacy.