Smart Watering Helps Plants Beat the Heat

Cole Porter was right. It’s too darn hot. 

As we watch the high temps stubbornly refuse to budge, it’s tempting to hunker down indoors and let our gardens go. Don’t. Those plants really need us now.

The best thing you can do to help is to water well. That means watering deeply less often.  

a show of water from a hose - watering a garde plant
Water at the base of plants to soak the roots.
Photo: Miri Talabac, UME

Daily sprinkles do more harm than good, stimulating shallow roots, which have a harder time drawing up the water plants need.  

Light watering also encourages tomatoes and peppers to develop black, leathery blossom end rot

So water vegetable plants deeply twice a week. Dial it back to once a week when things cool down.   

Watering in the morning is best as is directing water to the base of plants.  

If you planted new trees or shrubs this year, water them slowly and deeply at least once a week to soak the root ball. Use a soaker hose, a 5-gallon bucket with a few nail holes, or a hose on a slow trickle. 

a green tree bag placed around the trunk of a tree
Tree bags help to keep trees and shrubs well watered. 
Photo:  Joe Murray, Bugwood.org

And no, rain is not enough. Here are a few more tips on watering trees and shrubs.

If you’re growing anything in containers, check those pots daily. Most need to be watered every day.  And do some supplemental watering in your perennial beds. Everything is dry, dry, dry.

Smart tools make watering easier and use less water.

Soaker hoses – made from recycled tires – water plants slowly at the base of plants so you don’t lose water to evaporation.  

Drip irrigation does the same and lets you customize water zones. I can’t say enough good things about the drip irrigation system on a timer in my vegetable beds.  

a drip irrigation system set up in a raised bed garden
Drip irrigation saves time and money.
Photo:  Robert Cook

Rain barrels are a godsend. An eighth of an inch of rain on the average roof fills a 50-gallon barrel.  That’s free water, folks. I have four rain barrels and plan to add two more.  

a rain barrel next to a garden
Rain barrels capture rain from roofs to reduce water bills. 
Photo:  Rutgers University

Avoid watering with sprinklers. Overhead watering can promote disease and cause the loss of up to 80 percent of water to evaporation. 

Here are some more tips on conserving water and using smart tools. 

In addition to boosting plants’ water needs, heat zaps plants in other ways. 

Have you noticed flowers falling off your tomato plants? Sustained high temps prevent pollination, causing plants to jettison their blooms. Don’t worry. Flowering and fruiting will restart when it cools.

Trees react to high heat, too. Many are raining down leaves. This is a natural stress reaction. In fact, trees don’t need all their leaves. They’re just shedding some to cut down on maintenance. 

Unless the leaf loss is dramatic, those trees will be just fine.  

Lawns are feeling the heat as well, browning here, there, and everywhere. They are not – I repeat not – dead. Lawns naturally go dormant in high heat and will spring back with rains. Only new lawns need to be watered.

If you’d like to boost your landscape’s resistance to heat and drought – and the need for supplemental watering – add some water-wise plants.  

Deep-rooted, well-adapted native plants are a great choice. So are plants with fleshy leaves or roots, blue leaves, skinny or fuzzy leaves – all natural adaptations that mean these plants need less water. Think sedum, iris, lavender, threadleaf coreopsis, and lamb’s ear. 

Here are some tips for creating a more climate-resilient landscape.

Watering wisely and picking the right plants will help you build a more heat-resilient landscape that can not only beat the heat but look good doing it.     

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Q&A: Reduce the Height of an Arborvitae?

Arborvitae (Thuja sp.). Photo: Jason Sharman, Vitalitree, Bugwood.org

Q: I need to reduce the height of an arborvitae…. I might take around 5 feet off the top because it’s too big. When should I prune?

A:  While late winter or early spring is generally a good time to prune conifers (needled evergreens), in this case timing won’t matter much, because the amount you want to remove is more than the plant can handle. Instead, it may be better to replace the plant with a smaller-growing option.

Most conifers, including arborvitae, do not regrow foliage when it’s lost due to heavy pruning, deer browsing, or crowding from being planted too close together or too close to a wall or fence. Unlike broadleaf evergreens (boxwood, holly, euonymus, etc.), they don’t have dormant buds along the older stems, lying in wait to grow if the branch or foliage beyond them is removed.

Once the foliage is gone and bare wood is visible, it’s not coming back on that part of the plant. This is the reason why deer-browsed arborvitae are easy to spot, developing a shape sort of like a stemmed flute glass, because the parts the deer can reach become stripped of foliage and never fill back in again, even as the out-of-reach tops get wider.

As conifers age, it’s perfectly normal for the innermost branches to become quite bare, as those older leaves shed over time. They are deliberately jettisoned by the plant because they are being progressively shaded by the outer shell of live growth, so they cost the plant more to keep alive than the meager photosynthesis energy they get back. This will be exacerbated if the plant is sheared, where the foliage tips are lightly trimmed to give the plant a more manicured look, because that makes the layer of foliage casting shade on the plant’s interior even denser.

Pruning cuts that take off that outer layer or shell of younger growth on the branch tips will result in permanent bare areas. Once the foliage is gone from that inner wood, it will not regrow, even if sunlight now reaches the interior due to pruning cuts. This also applies to the main leaders. Reducing the height of a tall arborvitae will stunt the top growth and give it a permanent gap or flat-looking top. If this isn’t really visible from where you typically view the plant, then it’s not necessarily a problem (assuming the pruning cuts seal-over well and don’t develop wood decay). Otherwise, nothing will give the plant its former shape back.

Fortunately, there are lots of compact and dwarf conifer varieties on the market these days. A couple conifer types, like yews, will be able to rejuvenate after heavy pruning. Even so, it’s still best practice to select a plant that should fit in a given space in the yard without relying on pruning to make it fit.

I acknowledge that there are many gardeners that inherit poorly-chosen plants in their new yards, but if or when it comes time to replace them, research your options to make sure you won’t run into the same problem down the road. Plants never really stop growing, though older specimens can slow down. Due to a reduced growth rate, dwarf and miniature cultivars will stay much smaller over the same amount of time as their full-size counterparts, even though some dwarf cultivars can also get larger than you’d expect a few decades after planting.

By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.

Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask ExtensionOur horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.

Lilac Rejuvenation by Pruning

Each year, the spring and summer seasons seem to go faster and faster, and 2024 is no exception. If you have a lilac shrub, you can probably still imagine the sweet fragrance and beautiful flowers from a few months ago. I get several questions each year about lilacs, so the blog today is going to answer some of those inquiries! 

A few years ago, we decided to begin excavating for our new garage in late summer, and unfortunately, had to move a lilac shrub. The transplanting was not as high of a priority as it should have been, and the shrub suffered tremendously the following year. We gave it a season to see if it would recover, but ultimately, it was too damaged. At that point, we decided to try rejuvenation pruning and cut everything back to 6” above the soil line in hopes that the shrub would come back and have a better overall shape and appearance. We had nothing to lose as the plant was suffering, not growing, and not flowering. 

A lilac that was transplanted at the wrong time of the year and damaged. Photo: A. Bodkins, UME

Question:  What is rejuvenation pruning?

Answer: Lilac rejuvenation pruning involves cutting the entire woody shrub back to a few inches above the soil surface. This can be done if a shrub is really scraggly or if you want to change its shape entirely. Last summer, my parents had to do a construction project behind their very large, 20+-year-old white lilac, and they had to cut it back to the ground. It seems to be rebounding just fine, though!

University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension guidance recommends doing rejuvenation pruning in late winter or very early in the spring.

March 8th: First sign of life on the rejuvenation pruning. Photo: A. Bodkins, UME
a lilac bush that was pruned severely now has new green leaves
June 4th: Regrowth progress. Photo: A. Bodkins, UME

Question: My lilac has not bloomed for the last several years. What could be wrong? It used to be beautiful each spring! 

Answer: Lilacs need full sun to bloom. Often in people’s landscapes, as trees mature, lilacs get less sun than they once did, leading shrubs that once produced abundant, full blooms to have limited to no blooms.

Question: Why did my lilac bloom in the fall?

Answer: Environmental stress can cause out of season blooming. Some examples include drought, excessive heat, defoliation from pests, heavy pruning, insects, or diseases. 

Question: What time of year should I prune my lilac?

Answer: Many spring-blooming, woody shrubs will set the flower buds for the next season’s growth in late spring or early summer, so be sure to prune for shaping and maintenance purposes as soon as the shrub is finished blooming for the current growing season.

For more information on lilacs, see the Home and Garden Information Center’s page, Lilac: Identify and Manage Problems — particularly the sections on diseases, insect pests, and heat-tolerant and powdery mildew-resistant varieties. 

Remember, you can always contact your local University of Maryland Extension office or use Ask Extension to get answers to all your gardening questions.

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.

 

Q&A: When Should I Prune Shrub Roses?

Shrub rose pruned back in early March. Photo: M. Talabac

Q:  When do I prune shrub roses? Is now okay? How far back do I cut?

A:  Although you probably won’t kill a plant by doing it now (November) it’s best to wait until late winter or early spring (late February to early March time frame for central Maryland). Pruning before the dormant season might reduce some winter hardiness, potentially contributing to stem dieback. If you pruned in fall and a drastic cold snap were to cause plant tissue damage during the winter, then the second trimming to remove the dead wood would shorten the stem even more, as opposed to delaying trimming until the worst of winter is past and only making one trim at the height you prefer.

The height to reduce the stems depends on personal preference, and recommendations vary, but one convention is to cut shrub rose stems down to about 15 or 18 inches off the ground, though you could go lower to 12 inches or higher to 24 inches. Roses bloom on new growth (except for many climbing roses that also flower on old growth), so pruning at the end of winter will not remove flower buds. If you delay pruning into April or so, though, you might postpone when those first flowers of the season appear.

If a rose is so rangy that it’s just in the way, like arching over a sidewalk or blocking a hose spigot, you can compromise and make a light trim now to tidy it up so the thorns don’t catch people and then do the main pruning in several months.

By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.

Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask ExtensionOur horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.

Japanese Maples in Maryland Landscapes: Plant Location & Care Are Keys to Success

Japanese maple leaves
Japanese maple. Photo: Pixabay

The group of small ornamental shade trees lumped under the name Japanese maples, Acer palmatum and A. japonicum, and their many hybrids, are very popular with gardeners and plant enthusiasts. Most of the questions we receive about problems with Japanese maples are horticulturally related to poor growing conditions and maintenance rather than insects or diseases. The causes of these problems are usually root or trunk-related issues. So, let’s start with a look at the planting conditions Japanese maples need in order to thrive.  Continue reading