Q: I need to reduce the height of an arborvitae…. I might take around 5 feet off the top because it’s too big. When should I prune?
A: While late winter or early spring is generally a good time to prune conifers (needled evergreens), in this case timing won’t matter much, because the amount you want to remove is more than the plant can handle. Instead, it may be better to replace the plant with a smaller-growing option.
Most conifers, including arborvitae, do not regrow foliage when it’s lost due to heavy pruning, deer browsing, or crowding from being planted too close together or too close to a wall or fence. Unlike broadleaf evergreens (boxwood, holly, euonymus, etc.), they don’t have dormant buds along the older stems, lying in wait to grow if the branch or foliage beyond them is removed.
Once the foliage is gone and bare wood is visible, it’s not coming back on that part of the plant. This is the reason why deer-browsed arborvitae are easy to spot, developing a shape sort of like a stemmed flute glass, because the parts the deer can reach become stripped of foliage and never fill back in again, even as the out-of-reach tops get wider.
As conifers age, it’s perfectly normal for the innermost branches to become quite bare, as those older leaves shed over time. They are deliberately jettisoned by the plant because they are being progressively shaded by the outer shell of live growth, so they cost the plant more to keep alive than the meager photosynthesis energy they get back. This will be exacerbated if the plant is sheared, where the foliage tips are lightly trimmed to give the plant a more manicured look, because that makes the layer of foliage casting shade on the plant’s interior even denser.
Pruning cuts that take off that outer layer or shell of younger growth on the branch tips will result in permanent bare areas. Once the foliage is gone from that inner wood, it will not regrow, even if sunlight now reaches the interior due to pruning cuts. This also applies to the main leaders. Reducing the height of a tall arborvitae will stunt the top growth and give it a permanent gap or flat-looking top. If this isn’t really visible from where you typically view the plant, then it’s not necessarily a problem (assuming the pruning cuts seal-over well and don’t develop wood decay). Otherwise, nothing will give the plant its former shape back.
Fortunately, there are lots of compact and dwarf conifer varieties on the market these days. A couple conifer types, like yews, will be able to rejuvenate after heavy pruning. Even so, it’s still best practice to select a plant that should fit in a given space in the yard without relying on pruning to make it fit.
I acknowledge that there are many gardeners that inherit poorly-chosen plants in their new yards, but if or when it comes time to replace them, research your options to make sure you won’t run into the same problem down the road. Plants never really stop growing, though older specimens can slow down. Due to a reduced growth rate, dwarf and miniature cultivars will stay much smaller over the same amount of time as their full-size counterparts, even though some dwarf cultivars can also get larger than you’d expect a few decades after planting.
By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.
Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.
