soil improvement – Maryland Grows

What is Low-Till Gardening?

March 4, 2024March 4, 2024Maryland Grows1 Comment

In today’s post, I am going to focus on how to embrace low-till gardening systems, but first a quick refresher on soil.

The importance of soil

Soil is a living and complex natural covering of the Earth.
Soil acts as a sponge to absorb water, nutrients, pollutants, and carbon.
Many aspects of soil cannot be changed, but properties can be managed to provide the elements needed to grow desired plants and it is the pillar of plant life in your landscape/ecosystem.
1. Chemical, physical, and biological components make up the living soil.
2. Soil scientists are only beginning to understand the complex biological systems and how important they are to overall soil health.
Topsoil is the usable portion for gardeners. Thus, all management techniques should aim to protect and enhance this valuable layer.

Pros and cons of tilling garden soil

In-ground gardening techniques have long been the method of vegetable gardening used in large-scale production. This system focuses on the mechanical tilling of a section of the earth. This soil is prepared and then seeds or transplants are placed in rows. In between these rows of plants is the walkway, which is either tilled at regular intervals or mulched to prevent weeds from growing. This technique works well but results in high levels of soil disturbance. Mechanical tillers require the use of a motor or a large amount of physical labor/exertion if done by hand. Once the soil is tilled, it is more likely to suffer from soil compaction.

100% no-till gardening options

For alternative gardening methods that are 100% no-till, learn more by visiting these links:

Growing in Containers– University of Maryland Extension

Raised Beds– University of Maryland Extension

Lasagna Gardening or Sheet Mulching– Oregon State University Extension

Although tilling is the easiest and fastest way to create new planting areas and is also used as a weed control option, mechanical tilling of the soil (especially multiple times throughout the season) breaks down its structure and can reduce soil quality.

Negative effects of repeated mechanical tillage

Repeated tillage:

Breaks down organic matter. The more often you are churning the soil the more the natural structure can be degraded and compacted. It disturbs natural pathways for water flow and for soil macro- and microorganisms.
Reduces soil stability by breaking apart aggregates.
Exposes rocks and deeper layers of soil that are less developed.
Exposes the seed bank of the soil to light and allows new weed seeds to germinate.

an an exapleof a no-till garden with grassy paths between plantings — Image by Stéphane CHADOURNE from Pixabay

Differences between conventional and low-till systems

Low-till gardening systems often look different than traditional gardening systems. Low-till management techniques focus more on installing permanent pathways that are not disturbed yearly. These pathways may be outlined with stones or other permanent items. In the actual planting bed, low tilling is done with a handheld tool to create the planting space. Often these tilled areas would be smaller in size.

Implement these practices slowly and expand as you have success.

Use a broadfork to loosen the topsoil, but do not dig deeper than necessary. This allows the natural pathways made by micro- and macroorganisms (earthworm tunnels) and plant roots to stay intact.
Keep the soil covered. Use mulch to prevent erosion. Mulch sourced from your landscape such as pine needles, grass clippings, clean straw, newspaper, cardboard, etc. can be used.
1. Mother Nature always wants the soil to be covered. If you disturb the soil and do not cover it with mulch or other weed barrier, plants, or seeds, then weeds will grow. Wind and rain can quickly dissipate topsoil— replacing one inch of natural topsoil can take 500-1000 years! If the soil is covered it should not be as easy to wash or blow away.
2. Add organic matter– whatever you have readily available. Mushroom compost, bagged cow manure, homemade compost, leaves, grass clippings, kitchen waste, etc.
3. Plant crops (cover crops, green manure) that will be cut down and left to decompose naturally in the soil or lightly turned in with a broadfork.
  1. Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) and other plants can provide large amounts of nutrients when used as mulch.
Fertilize and amend the soil based on analysis results. Test your soil every 3 years.
1. Add fertilizer sources through amendments.
Till or disturb the soil as close to planting time as possible. This helps to minimize the time when no plant roots are helping to stabilize the soil.

More details on improving soil structure can be found in the blog post: How Can You Improve Your Soil?

bean plants growing in a no-till garden — Malabar spinach growing with corn. Example of companion planting in a no-till garden. Image by MAURÍCIO UCHÔA Bruttos from Pixabay

More on low-till gardens

Low-till is part of some permaculture practices. Permaculture practices have a goal of creating “permanent” growing spaces that utilize natural self-sustaining systems. Some of these permaculture practices can be adapted and used in our landscapes, especially those that include native plant areas, perennial fruits, and herbs. Other terms that incorporate these ideas and principles are food forests or forest gardening.

Tillage is a good tool, just remember to use it at the right time and for the right purpose to capture the benefits. Good soil management practices may be open to interpretation based on your personal goals for your garden space and remember that what makes sense in your landscape doesn’t always have to match what others are doing. If you are seeing positive results, then keep trying new techniques.

I hope that this Spring finds you dreaming and excited about the upcoming growing season and making a positive impact in adding diversity to your landscape.

Resources for more information

Soil management in home gardens and landscapes | Penn State University

No-till gardening keeps soil — and plants — healthy | Oregon State University

Low and no-till gardening | University of New Hampshire

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.

Buckwheat: Pollinator Friend and More

July 26, 2023August 4, 2023Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

buckwheat flowers with a pollinators — Buckwheat flowers.

Where I grew up, we did not have a county fair, but instead a “Buckwheat Festival” which celebrated buckwheat pancakes. I’ve often heard stories about “old timers” planting buckwheat because it could thrive in poor soils. Buckwheat is not as well known or common as it was several years ago; however, it does have the potential to be a great addition to your landscape and would be a wonderful summer cover crop, which is just one way to help improve soils for a more climate- resilient garden.

Positives about buckwheat include that it matures quickly, is easily seeded by broadcasting, is relatively inexpensive to purchase by seed, is not “fussy” about where it grows, and germinates quickly. It does not mind low-pH soils and can even out-compete weeds! It has shallow roots and is easily terminated — so planting a new crop after it is no problem — or, if it is still growing in the fall of the year, a frost will kill it. Lastly, it is a wonderful nectar and pollen source for a wide variety of insects.

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What is so special about legumes?

August 24, 2022August 30, 2022Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

a collage of three photos shows alfalfa plants growing in a high tunnel — Alfalfa (a legume) with nasturtium growing at the edge of a high tunnel. Photo: A. Bodkins

There is a whole group of plants in the Leguminosae (a.k.a Fabaceae) plant family and are referred to as legumes, a word that many people may have heard but may not know the special details about. Have you ever heard that legumes make their own nitrogen or that they are plants that never need nitrogen fertilizer? Well, both those statements are true!

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How can you improve your soil?

July 27, 2022September 8, 2023Maryland Grows5 Comments

a sloping landscape partially planted with cover crops — *A cover crop of spring seeded oats is included on this slope with grass and trees. Photo: A. Bodkins*

Healthy soil can sustain plant growth, prevent environmental damage, mitigate stormwater runoff, and help recharge and clean groundwater.

Soil type is probably not something that people consider when they move to a new property, so it reminds me of the statement “you get what you get and you don’t throw a fit”. However, it is no secret that soils are not all created equally in their ability to grow plants. To make matters worse, the soil is constantly being manipulated to accommodate our needs. When infrastructure like roads and buildings are constructed soil is moved and in many instances, there may not be any native soil profiles still intact on the property. Often a small layer of topsoil is put back onto the landscape after construction and regrading of the land, but there is no guarantee that it was the topsoil found there before construction began. Once the excavation is completed there is no going back. This article from Penn State Extension, Can Disturbed Soils Grow Healthy Landscape? is a great read. If you suspect that the soil you are planting vegetables into has been hauled in from another location, it is wise to get the soil tested for lead content. Some labs also test for heavy metals like arsenic (As), cadmium (Cd), and chromium (Cr), which can be found in soils on old industrial sites.

Soil is the gift that can keep giving, but there are some management practices that can help improve all soils. The physical, chemical and biological processes of soil are all interconnected. If you want to learn more about your own soil, I recommend the Kansas State publication that walks you through the steps to Estimate Soil Texture by Feel. Knowing the soil texture in your garden is one piece of the soil puzzle.

Soil organic matter increases water holding capacity, improves water infiltration, serves as a source of micro and macronutrients, and provides large particles for micro and macroorganisms to break down. Soils that are high in clay or sand can benefit from the addition of organic matter, which comes from anything that was once alive. Macro and microorganisms help to break down organic matter and release nutrients into the soil. There are many forms of organic matter that include compost, plant material, livestock waste, humus or leaf litter.

dark soil is rich in organic matter — *A cross-section of healthy soil. Photo: USDA*

Cover crops are another way to improve your soil because they capture excess nutrients that are left over from the growing season and prevent the nutrients from becoming environmental pollutants. Cover crops also prevent soil erosion from wind and rain during the late fall, winter, and early spring seasons when weather is not appropriate for most vegetable or agricultural crops. Once cover crops are terminated they can be plowed into the soil and add organic matter. This is called green manure. I’ve found that in my own garden, cover crops can also help prevent weeds from growing. Some cover crops like forage radishes die and create natural pathways through the soil for water to flow.

buckwheat cover crop planted over a vegetable garden soil — Buckwheat that I planted as an early season spring crop to help reduce weed germination in my vegetable garden. I had planned to terminate it and plant a late crop of cucurbits, but changed my mind after it was growing so beautifully and I saw all the insects that were visiting it daily.

Other management practices to help your soil include regular soil testing to monitor any changes and keep the soil pH in the correct range for your desired plants. Limit soil compaction by keeping vehicles, equipment, and even people from walking through gardens, especially when the soil is wet. At the very least, I think the best practice for improving and keeping your soil healthy is to leave it alone as much as possible, keep it covered with plants that are not invasive, and let the natural processes of the Earth work together to benefit the soil.

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.

This year, the University of Maryland Extension Master Gardener Grow It Eat It Program celebrates the resource that supports all life on earth – soil! Look for soil education programs offered by your local Master Gardener program, and visit the Home & Garden Information Center website for more information about soil health.

did you know soil is a natural resource and a living ecosystem

Are you looking at my soil?

April 27, 2022May 11, 2022Maryland Grows3 Comments

As a first-year college student studying horticulture (and later agronomy) I had no idea what I was in for when I signed up for that first Introduction to Soil Science course. Growing up, gardening and working on my family’s dairy farm, soil was something that we often talked about, mainly if it was wet or dry, rocky or smooth, and of course to stay out of the garden when it was wet; however, I really didn’t understand how important managing it was or how many different parts could be studied!

The technical definition of soil is the natural body composed of solids, liquids, gasses, and living matter that is capable of supporting plant life and has properties resulting from the five factors of soil formation. Wow! A mouthful of words, but a key point from this definition is the word NATURAL— soil is what covers the earth naturally and helps to absorb and disperse solar radiation and precipitation. It also provides an anchor for plant life. With harsh treatment, this living portion can be damaged and thus can take many years to build back. It is important to know too that healthy soils help to mitigate climate change as they store a huge amount of carbon in the form of carbon dioxide (CO2) and organic matter.

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Building healthy soil is the key to healthy plants

February 26, 2021February 16, 2021Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

Healthy soil grows healthy plants. If you want a vigorous, productive garden, protect and improve your soil.

Soil is made up of minerals, air, water, and organic matter. This skin of the Earth anchors and grows our food, filters our water, and recycles vital nutrients like carbon.

How do you build healthier soil? You feed it.

Compost, chipped leaves, untreated grass clippings, and other organic amendments can be turned in or used as mulch. Cover crops can be planted in the fall and turned into the soil in spring.

This organic matter lightens heavy clay soils. It improves soil structure. It helps the soil hold water and nutrients. It helps to suppress disease and feeds beneficial soil organisms.

Yes, soil is alive. An intricate community of microbes, fungi, beneficial insects, worms and more lives beneath your feet. Keeping this gang happy helps your plants growing their best.

That’s why we discourage tilling. When you till, you disturb the soil community, literally turning their world upside down. You also damage soil structure and bring weed seeds to the surface.

So till less or not at all. Instead, use a garden fork or broadfork to gently loosen soil, if needed. Broadforks are simply wide forks you rock to aerate soil.

How else can you improve your soil? Get a soil test. For $10 to $15 you can find out just what fertilizer your soil needs – and doesn’t need.

Soil tests can save you time and money and keep excess fertilizers out of our waterways.

Getting a soil test is easy. Download everything you need at the Home & Garden Information Center website.

Next, go deep. Scoop a few soil samples in your garden, going at least 6 inches down. Mix the sample and let it dry. Scoop a cup or two into the bag, box it up, and mail it to a lab.

You’ll have your results in a week or two. The test will tell you your soil’s pH, nutrient levels, and percent of organic matter. You’ll also get specific fertilizer recommendations for what you’re growing.

You can also help keep soil healthy by not walking on it, especially when it’s wet. That causes compaction. Air, water, nutrients, and roots have a tough time moving through dense soil.

Instead, create paths or strategically place stepping stones so you can walk between rows of plants.

I know you’re eager to garden, but don’t work wet soil. This also causes compaction.

To test if your soil is dry enough to work, grab a handful of and squeeze it into a ball. Now, bounce it gently. If it stays intact, your soil is too wet to work. If it crumbles it’s ready.

And never, ever till wet soil. That wrecks its structure and the soil community. Think Armageddon.

Great gardens grow from the bottom up. Protect and improve your soil to ensure it rewards you with year after year of productive plantings.

Photo of ornamental garden — Well-tended soil yields beautiful results such as the flowers at the Washington County Master Gardeners’ Boonsboro Library garden.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Garden cleanup and soil improvement

October 16, 2020May 11, 2023Maryland Grows2 Comments

Food gardens are in transition in October. Cool-season crops hit their stride and cover crops replace tired warm-season crops. Rather than put the entire garden to bed we may decide to coax more food from the ground with row covers, cold frames, and over-wintering crops. Either way, fall cleanup (“garden sanitation”) and soil protection and improvement this fall help ensure a healthy and productive garden next year.

Cleanup Tips:

Remove stakes, trellises, hoses, temporary fences, plant labels, and other gardening materials.

Clean up and remove all above-ground plant residues. Many diseases can survive over the winter on small pieces of leaves and stems. Some pest insects will hunker down under protective layers of dead weeds and crop debris. Either bag up and dispose of these plant wastes or compost them. All parts of the bin or pile must heat up to >140⁰ F. to kill plant pathogens and weed seeds. (Japanese stiltgrass should be bagged up with regular trash for landfill disposal.)

Empty the growing media from container gardens and store it in a trash can or heavy-duty trash bags. Soil-less growing media and compost lose nutrients and break down physically over time. Mix last year’s growing media 50:50 with fresh growing media and/or compost next year.

Soil Protection and Improvement Tips:

Instead of pulling plants out of the ground, cut them off at ground level leaving the root system intact. This reduces soil disturbance while adding organic matter.

Don’t leave the soil bare. Cover it with shredded leaves or some other type of mulch to prevent erosion. Rake leaves into a loose pile and mow over them with a lawnmower to cut them up. They will be much less likely to blow away if they are broken up. The leaves will reduce weed growth and can be retained as mulch next spring.

It’s getting late for planting cover crops. If you have seed, you can take a chance on sowing before the end of October. The soil temperature should be at least 45⁰ F. to 50⁰ F. for germination of cover crop seed. You can enter your zip code to learn the approximate temperature of soil in your area.

Bury plant-based food scraps in garden soil. This keeps them out of the landfill and recycles plant nutrients in the root zone. Unfenced gardens may attract wildlife.
As much as possible, use organic matter generated from your yard and household. Organic matter brought in from outside sources carries potential risks. Manure, straw, and hay may be contaminated with long-residual phenoxy herbicides or troublesome weed species.

Invasive jumping worms have been appearing more frequently in gardens and landscapes. They are spread by the movement of soil and organic matter like mulches.

Asian jumping worm — Invasive jumping worm removed from a deep layer of garden leaf mulch.

Test your soil. For $15-$20 you can have an accredited lab test your soil. You’ll get some important baseline information on soil pH, nutrient levels, and organic matter. Lead testing is included with some basic soil tests (e.g., University of Delaware). Most vegetable and fruit crops grow best in 6.0 to 6.8 pH soils. If your pH is too high or too low some nutrients may become unavailable to plants, causing deficiency symptoms, or overly abundant, causing toxicity symptoms. If recommended by the lab, you can apply lime or sulfur to your soil this fall so they can start changing soil pH.

By Jon Traunfeld, Extension Specialist. Read more posts by Jon.