Wood-damaging insect pests are a concern for anyone who lives in a structure made of wood. So it’s not surprising that we get several samples of insects for identification at our county offices.
Pests can damage wood by eating, excavating, or using it for their homes or galleries. Damage to foundational components can be especially alarming and expensive to fix.
Q. What are some physical differences between a carpenter ant and a termite that can be seen with the naked eye?
Antennae – straight or elbowed?
Ants have elbowed antennae
Termites have straight antennae
Wing length – same length or is the front set longer?
Winged termites have wings that are much longer than the body and are of equal length
Winged ants have wings of different lengths
Pinched or narrow waist versus one long segment?
Ants have a narrow or pinched waist
Termites have bodies that are all the same width
Comparing a termite (top) to an ant (bottom). Diagram courtesy of USDA Forest Service Archive, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org
Black carpenter ant(Camponotus pennsylvanicus), winged queen. Photo: Jon Yuschock, Bugwood.org. Note the narrow or pinched “waist.”
Q. Is there a difference in the damage caused by carpenter ants and termites?
Yes. Both can compromise the structural integrity of a building but the actual damage is going to be different. Carpenter ants make galleries and excavate damp or moisture-compromised lumber to make their colonies. Termites eat the lumber and live in tunnels that they make.
Q. What are the similarities between termites and carpenter ants?
Both are social insects that live in large complex colonies.
Both carpenter ants and termites are attracted to moisture, so be sure to fix any drainage issues that would create a wet environment.
Q. Does landscape mulch lead to termites in your home?
The short answer is no; however, mulched areas may be more attractive to termite activity because of the increased moisture.
Try to prevent the wooden foundation from coming into direct contact with the soil. Also, prevent tree limbs from touching your roof, as this gives insects an easy pathway from the soil to your home.
Do not let moisture accumulate near the foundation. Divert drains and downspouts away from the foundation, as well as lawn sprinkler or other irrigation systems.
Reduce and eliminate excess moisture and humidity around the foundation of your home including both basements or crawl spaces.
Never store firewood or debris against foundations or inside the home.
Use mulch sparingly, especially up against the foundation.
Remember that both these insects can be nuisance pests when they invade your home or other buildings; however, in nature, they are responsible for helping to break down stumps, fallen trees, and other debris. They also serve as a valuable protein source for birds and other small carnivores. So when possible, appreciate the value that they bring to your local ecosystem and food web.
Did you know that how and when you cut back your perennials and tidy your landscape matters to pollinators?
I just read a fact sheet from the Xerces Society that opened my eyes to more ways to help pollinators year-round, especially in the fall.
I already make sure I have something blooming from April to frost, so pollen and nectar are always available. And I emphasize native plants that coevolved with pollinators to support them best.
But beyond flowers, there are many things we can do to provide shelter for nesting and overwintering pollinators. And we can start some of them in the fall.
Pollinators and other insects shelter in stems and branches of trees, shrubs, and flowers. They also shelter in leaf litter, undisturbed or bare ground, dead wood, brush piles, and rock piles.
Incorporating these features in your landscape – rather than cleaning them away – supports bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.
So how can you make your garden more welcoming to pollinators this fall?
Start with the stems. Don’t cut back your perennials until late spring. Bees and other pollinators hibernate in the stems in winter. Only remove unhealthy plant stems to manage disease.
But doesn’t that look a little unkempt? Yes, but messy is beautiful – and necessary for pollinators to survive and thrive.
Master Gardener sign explaining why a messy garden is good for pollinators. Source: A. Cormany
The Master Gardeners and I believe this so strongly that signs in our teaching gardens say, “Excuse our mess, pollinators at rest,” to explain why we don’t cut back plants in the fall.
Next, leave some leaves. Most butterflies and moths use leaf litter to protect eggs, caterpillars, chrysalises, or adults over the winter.
Wooly bear caterpillars tuck into leaf piles. Luna moths wrap their cocoons in leaves. Some butterflies lay eggs on fallen leaves. Queen bumble bees burrow into soil under leaves.
A luna moth cocoon wrapped in leaves to wait out the winter. Photo: M. Raupp
So pile some leaves around trees, shrubs, and perennials as a natural mulch. They will suppress weeds, hold moisture, and feed the soil. I chip some leaves but leave some whole.
I often use leaf mulch in my vegetable garden, too. And when I had a larger landscape, I kept a 3-foot border of leaves against a stone wall to provide more shelter.
Leaves aren’t litter: they’re habitat. Ideally, some leaves will become a permanent part of your landscape. Pick a corner, an edge, or a garden. I let leaves lie in a small woodland garden.
But if you need to remove some of the leaves, try to leave them in place until mid-spring to give overwintering pollinators a chance to emerge.
This is really a glimpse of the many ways you can invite and support pollinators year-round. Learn more about Pollinator Gardens on the Home and Garden Information Center website.
Thanks for all you are doing to protect pollinators. It matters.
By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.
I know most folks don’t like creepy-crawlies. Bugs aren’t their thing. Mine, yes, but this is what I do – help people deal with garden pests and protect good bugs.
Some good guys do look scary, like something out of a sci-fi movie with spikes and fangs and ridges and crazy colors.
But looks aren’t everything. In most cases, these are good bugs – what we call beneficial insects – that help to control the few bad dudes in your garden.
Let me introduce you to a few bug friends that aren’t beauties but do a beautiful job of controlling harmful pests.
Assassin bugs get a bad rap simply because of their name. We’re talking James Bond, right?
Scary-looking assassin bugs are efficient predators. Photo: Photo: Johnny N. Dell, Bugwood.org
That’s a good thing. Assassin bugs are efficient predators, but boy, do they look scary. Battleship grey with spikes down their backs, they look like they’re wearing armor.
But the battle is mostly one-sided. Insects that cross an assassin bug’s path likely will get skewered by its lance-like mouthpart and slurped dry.
Stop shuddering. There’s an upside.
Assassin bugs eat almost any bug, making them ecological balancers that keep insect populations in check. Plus, they enjoy snacking on Japanese beetles, the scourge of many a garden.
Cute and beneficial, the ladybug lies at the other end of the beauty spectrum. But as youngsters, ladybugs resemble tiny orange and black alligators which often get squished because they look like they are Up To No Good.
Spiky ladybug larvae control aphids and other pests. Photo: Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org
Not true. These are good guys who consume even more aphids, spider mites, scales, and other baddies than adult ladybugs. In fact, one ladybug can eat over 5,000 aphids in its lifetime.
Many juvenile insects look nothing like their more familiar adult counterparts. So stop before you squish or spray. Snap a photo or bring a sample to your local Extension office. Most likely it’s an ally you want to protect.
You can find your Maryland Extension office on our website. Or reach out to the certified horticulturists at our Home & Garden Information Center for help. Send a photo or question to them at Ask Extension.
Wasps get a bad rap, too, with much swatting and shrieking and fear of The Stinger. Only females have those – they’re modified egg-laying organs – and they aren’t likely to use them unless threatened.
But most wasps are beneficial, preying on bad bugs or laying their eggs on them to feed their young. Plus, they are pollinators, protecting 1 in 3 bites of food we eat.
Scoliid wasps lay their eggs on Japanese beetle larva. Photo: Shanon Wolf
Spiders aren’t insects – they have 8 legs, not 6 – but they give many people the willies. But spiders also are beneficial, quietly and efficiently consuming many harmful insects.
Argiope spiders provide free pest control in the garden. Photo: Heather Lawhead
Beauty isn’t everything. An army of not-so-lovely-but-useful insects are your allies in the garden, protecting your plants from the 1 in 10 bugs that are actually harmful.
So think before you squish or spray. Get us a photo or sample. We’ll identify it and give you management tips that deal swiftly with bad bugs while protecting beneficial insects.
By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.
We tend to think about protecting our insects when and where we see them. This is perhaps why we may have a higher propensity to think about protecting pollinators we can see flying around rather than organisms that live in the darkness of the soil or hidden in the leaf litter. In today’s post, I would like to bring some attention to other groups of insects we may tend to forget about but which we can also help protect: insects that are active at night.
Don’t insects sleep at night?
Although many insects are generally less active at night due to the lower temperatures and their inability to move when the temperatures drop below a certain threshold, many insects are adapted to being active at night. For example, if they are pollinators of nocturnal or dusk-flowering plants such as several moth species are, they will be active when darkness falls. Other insects are active at night as predators, or at certain times of the season looking for mates and egg-laying sites. For all these insects, the absence or reduced presence of light is important for allowing them to take on what they need to do to survive and/or reproduce. For this reason, the presence of artificial night lighting in our outdoor spaces, especially in the warmer periods of the season, can interfere with these insects, leading to potentially very negative effects.
How can outdoor night lighting affect nocturnal insects?
Insects can be perturbed in different ways through outdoor night lighting. One of them is its potential interference with their temporal rhythms. In fact, like most animals, insects use light-darkness and the presence of certain night sky cues (e.g., full moon) to regulate their developmental cycles and perceive the progression of the season. The presence of supplementary lights during the night hours can lead to altered developmental cycles, making them longer or mismatching those of organisms belonging to the same species. This can lead to the insects missing their optimal mating times, losing their ability to forage on specific plants, or properly preparing for the arrival of colder nights as the season progresses.
The use of often non-essential lighting, such as light strings and other nocturnal accent lights in our spaces, can negatively affect the development, survival, and reproduction of many nocturnal insects. Photo: P. Danilyuk (CC)
Another issue that artificial nocturnal light can produce relates to the spatial disorientation of nocturnal insects. This can occur when insects are attracted to nocturnal light sources instead of moving towards their optimal habitat. This can lead to increased predation in those areas (the insects become more exposed to being seen), as well as their spending valuable energy by spending time in an inhospitable region. Further, disorientation can happen in a more indirect way by the light’s interference with the patterns present in the canopy. In fact, many insects have been shown to use the contrast pattern of the canopy and the sky to navigate and identify optimal habitats. The presence of nocturnal artificial lights can lead to the disappearance or a stark modification of that contrasting pattern, interfering with their ability to find their way in the ecosystem and decreasing their ability to find a proper habitat for their survival.
Some insects like fireflies use bioluminescence for inter-species recognition and mating. Photo: T. Ota (CC)
In some cases, the presence of nocturnal artificial light can interfere with mating and intraspecific recognition behaviors. Many groups of insects, such as fireflies and glow worms, use light cues to attract and recognize each other. In regions such as ours, where fireflies represent such an important part of our ecosystem, the use of outdoor nocturnal artificial lighting can interfere with the finding of mates and can potentially lead to much reduced abilities to reproduce and sustain populations.
What can we do to reduce this type of nocturnal pollution?
The obvious answer to this question is that if we want to reduce this type of pollution, our best bet is to turn off non-essential outdoor night lights, in particular during times of the year when insects are active. Doing this may actually save us some money, but also will allow us to support a higher diversity in our area, all while potentially letting us appreciate even more the nocturnal activity that may be present in our region. For example, doing this may make it easier to support fireflies and participate in their conservation, but can also support the reproduction of plant species that depend on nocturnal pollinators.
If leaving lights on is unavoidable, one should consider the intensity that is being used. Can the light be dimmed to a lower intensity? Could it be filtered to display a color that is less disruptive to insects? The Xerces Society has put together a really neat guide on this (Firefly-Friendly Lighting Practices – PDF), and I strongly encourage you to consult it if interested.
Finally, another way we can contribute to reducing unnecessary night lighting is by engaging in our communities. Initiatives such as DarkSky can help with this, both promoting best practices at the community level and engaging in conservation through community certification programs that are conservation-effective. You can learn more about these nocturnal conservation programs here.
By Anahí Espíndola, Associate Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.
Anahí also writes an Extension Blog in Spanish! Check it out here, extensionesp.umd.edu, and please share and spread the word to your Spanish-speaking friends and colleagues in Maryland. ¡Bienvenidos a Extensión en Español!
We may have all found ourselves in that situation in which we see an insect on a flower and we wonder whether it is a wasp or a bee, and we may have also seen people panic when they encounter a bee, thinking that it is indeed a wasp. Although the two groups are very distinct and there are several ways of telling them apart (check out this previous post to see how to do it), this difficulty is in part a signature of the shared evolutionary history that the two groups have. In today’s post, I want to tell you about the evolutionary origin of bees, how it is interwoven with that of wasps, and how evolutionary studies can help us understand and explain the diversity of our charismatic bees.
Evolutionary histories and the big family we are all part of
Before jumping into the main topic of this blog, please bear with me so I can give you a bit of context for what I’ll tell you, and so you can fully appreciate the power of the discoveries I will tell you about in just a second. One of the foundations of today’s biology and the way we understand life is that living organisms share a common ancestry and that evolutionary processes such as natural selection, mutations, dispersal, and random processes have led to the establishment of new lineages that can evolve into new species and new groups of organisms. What this means is that all the living organisms we know can be placed in a sort of genealogical tree, where more closely related species and groups appear placed on branches of the trees that are also closer to each other (we call these trees “phylogenies” or “phylogenetic trees”). Also, this means that if we were to take these trees, and we were to follow the evolutionary process “backward” (from the tips to the internal branches; that is, from the present into the past), we would be able to identify branching points, which represent the now extinct ancestors of species we know today.
A phylogeny can be compared to a genealogical tree we may want to build for our family. In this tree, the most closely related members of our family share recent ancestors (marked with diamonds), but are still connected with more distantly related members of the family with longer branches and other more ancient shared ancestors. In the same way, a phylogeny represents the relationships between species or groups of species, with branches connected by their shared ancestors. Image: University of Iowa
Although this may sound like a biological nerd moment of mine, I hope that you will appreciate the enormity of this principle. This simple concept indicates that each of us and all species that exist on the planet have shared ancestors at some point in our history. We are all related to each other, like a huge family… and as for all families, the study of our history can teach us fun and interesting things about who we are, helping us understand and explain things we observe today. Let me tell you what the study of these phylogenies has taught us about wasps and bees (and their shared history) and why this excuses us in part from not always being able to tell them apart 😉.
Bees and wasps, and the vegetarian wasp
As you may know, bees and wasps are both insects that belong to the order Hymenoptera. Despite the fact that people knew they were related but distinct from each other, it was not until relatively recently that people understood what that relationship was. In fact, because they share a lot of common traits, scientists were for a long time confused about what the most closely related group of Hymenoptera was for bees, wasps, and ants. Some years ago, with the development of new methods that allow for more detailed studies of phylogenies, researchers found strong evidence that ants are a group of organisms that is related but distinct from another group formed by bees and by a particular group of solitary and usually ground-nesting wasps called crabronids. Besides the taxonomic and purely conceptual importance of this discovery, what this meant biologically was on the one hand, that bees are evolutionarily extremely closely related to wasps, to the point that we could consider them “non-carnivorous wasps”. On the other hand, this discovery showed that all bees we know today would have evolved from a wasp-like ancestor that was solitary and ground-nesting, like the crabronids we know today.
In 2017, Branstetter and collaborators used phylogenies to demonstrate that all bees and a group of wasps (crabronids) shared a common ancestry, indicating that bees can be considered a type of “vegetarian” wasp. In the figure, the position of the common ancestors is shown with arrows and stars. The main groups are labeled on the left. Image: modified from Branstetter et al., 2017
If you’re like me and find this fun, keep reading because it gets even more fun! 😊 So, after this discovery, the people who work on these topics wanted to know more. For example, can phylogenies tell us more about how the transition from a meat-based diet (wasps are carnivores) to a pollen-based one (bees feed mostly on pollen and nectar) could have happened? To investigate this, researchers ran a similar analysis, but this time considering a lot more species of both bees and crabronids. Constructing phylogenies using genetic information, they figured that when the evolutionary relationships of these groups were studied, it appeared that bees were the most closely related to a particular group of crabronids that is known to predate on thrips (a family called Ammoplanidae).
Bees have been shown to be very closely related to a group of tiny wasps in the family Ammoplanidae which are known to hunt on thrips. Photo: CBG Photography Group (CC).
Besides confirming the discoveries of the previous study, this one provided a logical and interesting biological and ecological context for the transition from carnivory to pollinivory in bees. Thrips are a group of insects known to feed on plant materials, often found on flowers, where they feed on pollen. This new study proposed that a possible evolutionary opportunity may have appeared when a lineage of thrip-predating wasps evolved the ability to not only digest thrips meat but also the pollen they contained in their guts (!!). This transition could have set the evolutionary foundations to eventually transition to a diet fully based on pollen, which opened opportunities to the newly emerging lineage to feed on a new dietary resource not already in use by other wasps. If this is true, this transition would have provided an important evolutionary advantage (e.g., reduced competition for food), which would have led to the huge diversification of bees, leading to the extreme diversity we see today.
By Anahí Espíndola, Assistant Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.
Anahí also writes an Extension Blog in Spanish! Check it out here, extensionesp.umd.edu, and please share and spread the word to your Spanish-speaking friends and colleagues in Maryland. ¡Bienvenidos a Extensión en Español!
Adult Japanese beetle on a ripening raspberry cluster. Photo: Miri Talabac, University of Maryland Extension
Q: Japanese beetles have been ravaging my yard for a few summers now. I heard Milky Spore can be a natural way to treat them. Is that right?
A: Japanese beetle grubs feed underground on plant roots (often in lawns), and the adults feed on foliage and flower petals on perennials, shrubs, and trees. It’s possible only one of those two life stages will pose a problem for a gardener while the other does not, so you won’t necessarily have to tackle both. In fact, a lot of lawn grub treatments are unnecessary, because any grubs encountered are not abundant enough to create noticeable lawn damage, or someone mistakenly blamed grubs for turf dieback caused by other factors.
Milky Spore, the product name for a biological control agent for Japanese beetle grubs, is a naturally-occurring bacteria that infects the grubs and kills them. Unfortunately, University field trials have found it is not reliably effective. Microbial levels might require several years of build-up from annual applications of the product to reach populations sufficient to reduce grub numbers, which can be costly.
You do have other options; the adults of this species won’t be out for a month or so yet. Beneficial nematodes can be applied to a lawn where white grubs feed, which will parasitize them and kill them. Weather conditions need to be just right during application because they are very perishable, but once nematodes get settled in, they appear to be a more promising solution.
Lower-toxicity insecticides can be used as a last resort, though check with local government rules about applications to turf since some areas restrict pesticide use on home lawns. It may be best (or necessary, for certain ingredients) to hire a certified pesticide applicator to make such treatments.
Residents who have a lawn dominated by tall fescue will rarely have any serious Japanese beetle grub issues, because this is not the turf type they prefer. (Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass are those at risk.)
Adult beetles are simpler to deal with. Simply hand-picking them off of shrubs is an immediately effective tactic. Knock them into a container of soapy water to kill them, since they drop readily when disturbed. These beetles like to congregate, so removing them in the morning, before they can produce a waft of aggregation pheromone to attract others to the banquet, means that you can easily reduce the plant’s risk of damage.
It’s not necessary to nab every last beetle or prevent all chewing damage. Birds, lizards, predatory insects, and other natural helpers will help keep populations suppressed as well.
Although hanging trap bags use a pheromone lure, they attract more beetles than they capture, and the incoming beetles might still eat plants before heading to their doom, so you might as well skip that approach and just intervene by hand.
Don’t worry too much if damage sneaks up on you: even heavily-chewed shrubs may surprise you by rebounding well on their own, once the adult beetle activity has ended later in the summer. More information about their life cycle and management options can be found on our White Grub Management on Lawns and Japanese Beetles on Trees, Shrubs, and Flowers pages.
By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.
Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.
With warmer temperatures and spring blossoms we are likely ready to get back into our gardens. Before we get our hands dirty, let’s learn how to support the beneficial insects in our landscapes that are and will be emerging from their overwintering sites. In today’s post we will review some information and tips on how we can support, and not disrupt, the life cycles of beneficial insects like our native bees, when we do any spring garden cleanup or prep.
Plant stems, leaves, and other debris can be home to many beneficial insects during the winter months that are waiting on warmer days before they emerge this spring. Wait as long as you can before removing any plant materials. Photo: M.E. Potter, University of Maryland Extension
Overwintering beneficial insects
Some insects migrate (e.g. Monarch butterfly) to avoid the cold temperatures, but there are many insect species that overwinter (spend the winter months in one of their life stages- egg, larva, nymph, pupae, or adult) in Maryland. Insects like luna moths (Actias luna) who overwinter in the pupal stage in cocoons within leaf litter (see photo below), the great spangled fritillary (Speyeria cybele) who overwinters as caterpillar larvae in leaf litter, bumble bee (Bombus spp.) queens who can overwinter as adults underground, small carpenters bees like Ceratina strenuawho overwinter as adults in plant stems, and praying mantids like the Carolina mantis (Stagmomantis carolina) who overwinter in the egg stage as ootheca (an egg case) laid on woody plant stems and other structures. All these examples are of beneficial insects, who provide services like pollination and pest control during their active life stages. This goes to show, even in the cold and quiet winter months, your garden can be full of life!
Luna moths overwinter as pupae in cocoons made of fallen leaves and silk. In late spring the insect will emerge as an adult moth. Photo: M.J. Raupp, UMD
When is too early for spring cleaning?
Generally, the longer you can wait the better! Insects do not all emerge at the same time. There are some native bee species that emerge from their overwintering sites as early as March (e.g. some Colletes spp.) and some that typically do not emerge until late May (e.g. Blue-green sweat bees). Due to the changing climate and the diversity of insect life cycles, we unfortunately cannot point to a specific date on the calendar to know all the overwintering insects have emerged from our green spaces. We can look for different cues in our environment to hint at insect emergence.
Before last frost and consecutive warm days
Once we are out of risk of evening frosts and daytime temperatures are consistently above 50°F for several days in a row, many insects will begin to emerge. Otherwise leaf litter and other plant debris are vital for overwintering insects to survive the cooler temperatures. With climate change, and the chances for more drastic temperature changes, fallen plant material becomes even more important for protecting overwintering insect populations. Think of a fallen leaf as a blanket for our beneficial insects!
Looking for spring blooming trees like cherry, peach, or eastern redbuds can clue us in on this year’s seasonal changes and timing when it comes to insect emergence. Once fruit trees have finished blooming, many of our overwintering bees and beneficial insects have likely emerged. Photo: Nancy Lee Adamson, Wild Bee Plantings
Before fruit trees bloom
Many of our fruit trees (along with natives like Eastern redbud and red maple) bloom in early spring, providing nectar and pollen for our early riser pollinators; check out the figure below on native bee and orchard bloom phenology. If you wait for any garden cleanup until these trees have finished blooming (around mid-May), many of our insects will have likely emerged by then. Since phenology (seasonal changes in a plant’s life cycle, such as the timing of bloom) can shift with changing climate conditions, always keep an eye on the trees and blooms around you. A great excuse to get outside and get to know your local plant life.
A generalized look at native bee emergence and fruit tree bloom period for the eastern U.S.; this timing can vary based on your latitude and microclimate. Observe the fruit trees around you and utilize the end of their bloom period as a sign many of our native bees have emerged. Chart: From Wild Pollinators of Eastern Apple Orchards and How to Conserve Them, used with permission from The Xerces Society
Before consistent lawn/turf growth
Noticing consistent lawn/turf growth in your area? Cool-season grasses begin their spring growth once soil temperatures are between 50° and 65°F. A general guideline is once lawns need to be mowed it is a good sign it has been warm enough for many of our overwintering insects to emerge. If you have lots of lawn in your space, consider reducing and replacing the lawn with beneficial insect friendly native plants! If you are wondering what you could plant instead, check out Lawn Alternatives. And if you have heard of No-Mow May, check out the Pros and Cons of the No-Mow May Movement and the Controversy Surrounding No Mow May, by Dr. Gail Langellotto.
Sometimes less is more
Less garden cleanup can have a positive impact on beneficial insect populations! Rethink removing plant debris in certain areas of your landscape. Unless the plant debris comes from a diseased or pest infested plant, leaves, stems, sticks and more can be left, relocated, or reused as wildlife habitat. Your plant debris is some animal’s home! Preliminary data from a study conducted by Max Ferlauto, PhD student in the Burghardt lab, at the University of Maryland, Department of Entomology, shows the number of emerging moths and butterflies are reduced by approximately 67 percent in areas where leaves are removed. If you are removing any plant material, consider relocating the materials to an unmanaged, “habitat area”, or to a compost pile after late spring.
Help fight climate change’s impact on beneficial insects by providing shelter to help insects withstand adverse conditions. Consider leaving and/or adding one or more of the following sources of habitat in your green space this spring!
Leaves
Flower stalks/plant stems
Fallen/removed twigs
Wooden logs
Rocks/rock piles
From “messy” to sustainable
If you are worried about your space looking messy from less spring cleaning, there are ways to get creative to transform your and the public’s view of your conservation areas. An opportunity to personalize your green space with unique and practical “signs of care” (also known as “cues to care”).
Signage
A sign in your green space can not only enhance the look but also help educate others. Why are you leaving the leaves? Let others know by adding a sign about how leaves support native wildlife. Look to local artists and organizations to find a sign that works for your space and could convey a science-based message. You can earn a sign from our Bay-Wise Master Gardener program once your landscape is Bay-Wise certified. To learn more, check out our Bay-Wise program page.
Fencing or edging
Even a short fence or edging can make a space look purposeful and cared for. Edging can be made out of repurposed materials (pebbles, stones, sticks, even glass bottles) or can be purchased from most gardening centers or hardware stores. Think of it as putting a frame around the artwork and beauty that is your garden. For ideas check out, Edging Makes Landscape Beds Pretty, Easy to Keep or Landscape Edging Materials.
Fencing or edging around your garden beds or green spaces can help make areas look more cared for and attractive. Ensure any nearby pathways are clear, creating accessible green spaces for all. Photo: M.E. Potter, University of Maryland Extension
Tidy, accessible paths
Ensure any pathways, especially areas around public sidewalks, are clear so all can access and enjoy the space and surrounding area. Cut back overgrown plants that may be blocking or obstructing pathways. If you are working in a community garden, consider the accessibility of your landscape so we may create more inclusive green spaces for all. To learn more about accessible green spaces, check out these pages, Create an Accessible Garden for Those of all Physical Abilities and Gardens Are For Everyone: Ideas for Accessible Gardening.
