Q&A: How Can I Get Wasps Out of My Compost?

Yellowjacket (Vespula sp.). Photo: M. Talabac

Q:  Wasps took up residence in my compost pile this year. I could avoid them for a while, but I’m hoping I can use the pile again next spring. How can I get them out of there?

A:  Ground-nesting yellowjackets are probably the culprit here, and the good news is that they will disappear on their own by winter. In our area, social wasps like hornets, yellowjackets, and paper wasps don’t reuse the same nest for more than one year. By late autumn or early winter, the old queen, workers, males, and any juveniles that did not have time to mature will all die. Only mated young queens survive, leaving the nest of their birth to disperse and overwinter in a sheltered spot by themselves. They seek out insulated spots like hollows under fallen logs and nooks in stone walls, go into the insect version of hibernation, and emerge in spring as it warms up, each flying off to find her own site to start a new nest. She does all the nest-building and larvae-feeding work by herself until the first generation of young matures, so she has a limited ability to defend it from disturbance.

Nest remnants left in the compost pile will be abandoned (or will at least contain dead wasps) during winter, when you can safely dig it out for removal or just leave it to compost with the rest of the pile contents. Wild animals can also tear apart abandoned wasp nests, looking for easy-access morsels to snack on, though this presumably happens more regularly with visible above-ground nests.

Preventing a new generation of wasps from choosing the same appealing nest site in a future year might be challenging unless you enclose the pile in insect mesh or something to discourage queen wasps from exploring it in spring. Regular turning of the pile – recommended to keep it well-oxygenated anyway – might disturb a new queen too much to allow her to successfully begin a new nest.

By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.

Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask ExtensionOur horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.

Composting and Climate Change

Composting is probably seen by most people as good for gardens and the environment. After all, compost helps make our soils and plants healthier and keeps green waste from our yards and kitchens out of landfills.

But is composting good in the context of our climate crisis? Doesn’t the composting process generate lots of carbon dioxide (CO2), the principal greenhouse gas (GHG) that traps heat in Earth’s atmosphere? Can composting also mitigate climate change and make our yards and landscapes more climate-resilient? The answer to both questions is YES. This article will show that composting, at the home, community, and municipal/commercial level, is an important global warming mitigation and adaptation tool. As we’ll see, the ways that humans manage this natural process and use the compost can affect the climate benefits.

Composting basics

We don’t make compost! Huge populations of microorganisms do most of the work and we humans manage the process for our benefit. It’s nature’s way of recycling anything that lives and dies, like plants, animals, and microbes.

The decomposition process produces lots of carbon dioxide (CO2), part of the world’s carbon cycling system shown in this graphic:

illustration of the carbon cycle - plants use carbon dioxide from the air and water from the soil to build carbohydrates
Plants exude carbohydrates through their roots to feed soil organisms. Those organisms release carbon dioxide through respiration. Illustration by Jocelyn Lavallee, Ph.D., Soil Scientist

This CO2 release is considered biogenic (happens through natural biological systems), not anthropogenic (people-made), and is not included in the calculations of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions that drive global warming and climate change.

The three primary GHGs are:

  • Carbon dioxide (CO2) — 300-1,000 year atmospheric lifetime; 86% of total GHG emissions
  • Methane (CH4) — 84X the global warming potential of CO2; 12 year atmospheric lifetime; 7% of total GHG emissions
  • Nitrous oxide (NO2) — 265X the global warming potential of CO2; 100 year atmospheric lifetime; 6% of total GHG emissions

There are many factors that determine the potential for composting to generate methane and nitrous oxide, like the mix of materials being composted, temperature, moisture, pile size and configuration, and aeration. Compost piles and windrows that are waterlogged and low in oxygen (anaerobic) are more likely to generate these GHGs. Composting is “climate-friendly” when it’s done in the presence of air (aerobic). Home and community composters turn piles by hand to keep them aerated and large-scale composting facilities use mechanical turners and force air into windrows with blowers. Well-managed composting at any scale releases very little methane or nitrous oxide into the atmosphere. 

Direct climate benefits of composting

  • Dumping food wastes and grass clippings in landfills generates large amounts of methane because the decomposition process is anaerobic. Landfills release about 17% of total U.S. anthropogenic methane emissions and food waste makes up 24% of landfill space. Burning organic wastes releases GHGs and toxins. Composting these organic wastes using best practices greatly reduces emissions.
  • Carbon sequestration: Compost continues to degrade after soil incorporation. Some of the carbon cycles through soil microorganisms and some is held tightly to clay particles, protected against decomposition, and becomes part of the long-term reserve of stored carbon.

Indirect climate benefits of composting

The mid-Atlantic climate is becoming wetter and warmer overall, punctuated by localized extreme weather events, like record-breaking rainfall and extreme drought and heat. Intense storms can cause soils and nutrients to wash away and warmer temperatures cause more rapid organic matter decomposition and turnover, especially if soils are tilled and uncovered.

Adding compost to soils makes them more resilient by:

  • Holding more water in the soil during periods of drought and extreme heat
  • Reducing erosion (washing away of soil during extreme rainfall) and nutrient run-off) due to improved soil structure (larger, more stable aggregates or crumbs)
  • Improving plant growth, by slow release of plant-available nutrients
  • Reducing the need for synthetic nitrogen fertilizers which require natural gas for their production
  • Reducing the need for potassium and phosphorous fertilizers (derived from mined mineral deposits that are dwindling worldwide)
  • Binding and degrading toxic metals and pollutants
  • Substituting compost for peat products can help reduce the release of CO2 from commercial peat extraction from wetlands 

Home composting

Managing and recycling as much yard waste as possible on-site is often the most climate-friendly approach because it reduces GHG emissions from transporting and processing or landfilling organic waste. You can do this by recycling grass clipping (“mow ‘em high and let ‘em lie”), mulch-mowing tree leaves and leaving them in place, or using them as mulch, composting yard and garden waste, and burying kitchen scraps. These practices help to recycle nutrients on-site and increase soil organic matter. Selecting or building a non-plastic composter can also help reduce GHG emissions.

Municipal/commercial composting

This is the next best option for organic wastes that cannot be managed on-site. Commercial and municipal composting operations do create GHG emissions from the trucks and equipment, powered by fossil fuels, that are used to collect, transport, and process organic waste and compost. The closer the source of organic waste to the facility the lower the emissions and the greater the benefits. On balance, composting on a large scale can also help mitigate climate change.

illustration showing that the carbon sequestration benefits of municipal composting outweigh the greenhouse gases generated by transportation, storage, and processing compost

To summarize: aerobic composting reduces GHG emissions compared to the landfilling and incineration of organic wastes. The resulting compost sequesters carbon when mixed into soils and improves soil health and resiliency. Composting at home and in your community is the most climate-friendly approach but commercial and municipal composting is another important tool that helps mitigate climate change.

References

By Jon Traunfeld, Extension Specialist, University of Maryland Extension, Home & Garden Information Center. Read more posts by Jon.

Starting a compost pile and planting cover crops – winding down the vegetable garden for the year

After a fun year of building support structures and growing really long squash, it was time to wind down the garden. Our first baby was born (thank you, thank you), and we had no further bandwidth or ambition to continue with cool-season crops, so I decided to pack up the support gear, rip out the remaining plants that were producing but slowing down, start a compost pile with the remains, and plant cover crops in the beds.

Packing it up

My big trellis used for the Tromboncino squash and the one made from part of a fencing panel used for tomatoes both folded up and packed away nicely in this outdoor storage area attached to my house. I’m happy with my designs, as I didn’t want permanent structures out in the garden getting weathered, and I didn’t want them to take up a lot of space in storage. These will be easy to set up next year again. The only thing I will do differently in the future is to use something stronger than twine to string on the trellis and hold up tomatoes with tomato clips. A lot of the twine that was under pressure from crops eventually snapped and needed replacing.

Rip it, chop it, bin it

We were going to have such a volume of garden waste this year, I decided to start a compost bin. This should give us a head start on the new layer of compost (previously all store-bought) we add to the raised beds each year. Pretty much all we have to do is throw this stuff in a bin and wait, as we are doing passive composting that is slow but requires very little attention.

I bought a cheap compost bin online; this one is just a sheet of black plastic with holes that you form into a vertical cylinder and throw your stuff into.

I ripped up our squash, watermelon, and tomato plants, wheelbarrowed ’em over to the compost bin in our back yard, stabbed at the pile with a shovel and buzzed it with my string trimmer for a while to chop it up a bit. Then I shoveled it all into the bin, attempting to mix up the types of plants in there somewhat uniformly.

Once leaves fall, I’ll drop some leaves that have been shredded by the mower into there as well.

I know you can drop food waste like fruit and vegetable scraps into compost, but I’m not sure we are going bother making the trip from the kitchen to backyard with a couple banana peels since that’s just not a lot of volume to make a difference for our intended purpose.

We will need to turn the pile a couple times in the next year to aid decomposition, but other than that, this is hands off. I’m looking forward to seeing what we get at the beginning of next growing season to start our summer vegetable garden again.

Cover crops for our raised bed garden to make it through the winter

I know it is good to protect my soil from erosion and add a layer of compostable material on the top over the winter. Last year, I had read that a layer of mulched leaves is good to place into raised beds, but when I did that, I found that much of it quickly blew away.

This year, I decided to plant crimson clover, a cover crop.

Cover crops, also known as green manures, are an excellent tool for vegetable gardeners, especially where manures and compost are unavailable. They lessen soil erosion during the winter, add organic material when turned under in the spring, improve soil quality, and add valuable nutrients.

HGIC page on cover crops

With a couple inexpensive packets of crimson clover, I sprinkled the seeds over the now empty raised beds, raked a bit to cover them lightly with soil, and then watered the soil most days. I could see sprouts in a week or so.

The clover will add a layer of protection over the winter, and then nitrogen and nutrients in April when I cut it down with a string trimmer and then turn over the soil.

Sounds easy enough. I’m all about lower-effort gardening!

Dan Adler
HGIC Web Support and Video Production

Lawn and Garden Tips and Tricks for November

Lawns

  • Typically, November is too late to broadcast lawn seed and expect it to survive the winter. Consider waiting until early spring.
  • This is still a good time to control wild garlic, clover, ground ivy, chickweed, and other difficult weeds with an herbicide if daytime temperatures remain in the sixties. Do not spray herbicides around ponds or on breezy days. Always read and closely follow all label instructions.
  • According to Maryland’s Lawn Fertilizer Law (PDF), the last application of fall fertilizer needs to be applied before November 15th.
  • Lawn info on HGIC

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