Wood-damaging insect pests are a concern for anyone who lives in a structure made of wood. So it’s not surprising that we get several samples of insects for identification at our county offices.
Pests can damage wood by eating, excavating, or using it for their homes or galleries. Damage to foundational components can be especially alarming and expensive to fix.
Q. What are some physical differences between a carpenter ant and a termite that can be seen with the naked eye?
Antennae – straight or elbowed?
Ants have elbowed antennae
Termites have straight antennae
Wing length – same length or is the front set longer?
Winged termites have wings that are much longer than the body and are of equal length
Winged ants have wings of different lengths
Pinched or narrow waist versus one long segment?
Ants have a narrow or pinched waist
Termites have bodies that are all the same width
Comparing a termite (top) to an ant (bottom). Diagram courtesy of USDA Forest Service Archive, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org
Black carpenter ant(Camponotus pennsylvanicus), winged queen. Photo: Jon Yuschock, Bugwood.org. Note the narrow or pinched “waist.”
Q. Is there a difference in the damage caused by carpenter ants and termites?
Yes. Both can compromise the structural integrity of a building but the actual damage is going to be different. Carpenter ants make galleries and excavate damp or moisture-compromised lumber to make their colonies. Termites eat the lumber and live in tunnels that they make.
Q. What are the similarities between termites and carpenter ants?
Both are social insects that live in large complex colonies.
Both carpenter ants and termites are attracted to moisture, so be sure to fix any drainage issues that would create a wet environment.
Q. Does landscape mulch lead to termites in your home?
The short answer is no; however, mulched areas may be more attractive to termite activity because of the increased moisture.
Try to prevent the wooden foundation from coming into direct contact with the soil. Also, prevent tree limbs from touching your roof, as this gives insects an easy pathway from the soil to your home.
Do not let moisture accumulate near the foundation. Divert drains and downspouts away from the foundation, as well as lawn sprinkler or other irrigation systems.
Reduce and eliminate excess moisture and humidity around the foundation of your home including both basements or crawl spaces.
Never store firewood or debris against foundations or inside the home.
Use mulch sparingly, especially up against the foundation.
Remember that both these insects can be nuisance pests when they invade your home or other buildings; however, in nature, they are responsible for helping to break down stumps, fallen trees, and other debris. They also serve as a valuable protein source for birds and other small carnivores. So when possible, appreciate the value that they bring to your local ecosystem and food web.
An example of a home rain barrel system. Photo: Adobe Stock
The extreme heat and lack of precipitation this season have forced many people to get creative with finding a way to water their gardens. Rain barrels are a great addition to your outdoor space!
Rain barrels can be sophisticated with features like valves, hoses, etc., or they can be any type of container that holds water. Please remember that the container should be food-grade so that nothing toxic will leach out of the container and there should be a mesh screen/net over the top so that mosquitoes cannot enter to lay their eggs.
Example of a rain barrel system with a screened lid.
Stormwater runoff
Anytime precipitation flows across the land, it becomes runoff. Precipitation may infiltrate into the soil or run off into streams, bodies of water, drains, or evaporate back into the atmosphere. In nature, most precipitation is absorbed by trees and other plants, or it may permeate or “soak” into the ground, which results in recharging groundwater supplies and bodies of water. However, when there are impervious surfaces (pavement, buildings/roofs, and other structures and materials covering the soil), this precipitation can no longer soak into the soil and has to go somewhere else. When stormwater is not managed correctly, it can result in catastrophic consequences such as stream bank erosion, flooding, pollution, threats to human health, and tainted water supplies. The University of Maryland Extension provides more information on stormwater management in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed.
Environmental Site Design practices from the Maryland Department of the Environment have changed the way residential stormwater is managed and recommend that homeowners address stormwater discharge at the individual level. Individuals can make a difference by reducing the quantity and improving the quality of any stormwater that is leaving their specific property. It is important to realize that activities on your property can adversely affect neighboring landscapes, as water does not follow property boundaries. Penn State’s Homeowners Guide to Stormwater Management is an awesome resource to help you investigate your property and see what changes you can make. With stormwater, you want to slow it down and let it soak into the soil and one of the ways that you can do this is by utilizing a container for rainwater collection.
A rain barrel distribution in Garrett County was sponsored by Deep Creek Watershed Foundation in 2024. It has shared 190 free rain barrels with the community!
Rainwater harvesting is when a device such as a barrel or cistern is used to catch natural precipitation. These containers are often positioned at the edge of a building drainage system, above or below the ground, and are examples of micro-scale stormwater management techniques to slow down a small amount of water and use it later when there is no precipitation. This allows the capture and re-use of rainwater to promote water conservation, reduce runoff volumes, and the discharge of pollutants downstream.
Using stored rainwater can decrease municipal water usage (allowing this potable water for vital drinking) and provide a source of water that is free from chlorine, fluoride, etc. Water that is caught in a rain barrel is considered non-potable and not safe for human consumption— no bathing, no drinking, and no cooking. It can be used for watering plants and lawns, rinsing tools, adding to a compost pile, filling ornamental ponds and bird baths, washing vehicles, or even flushing toilets during a power outage. Please note that there is some special guidance for using rain barrel water to water a vegetable garden. The Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station has a great fact sheet that outlines some of the cautions and best practices and recommendations that include using bleach to reduce contaminants, using the water on the soil only, and not harvesting vegetables at the same time that you are watering.
Preparing your site for rain barrel installation
Identify where you will be placing your rain barrel. Be sure to think about how you will use your rainwater and if you need to raise the barrel to get a watering can, bucket, etc., under the nozzle to empty the barrel. The site should be clean of debris and level. If it’s not level, build a platform out of rocks, pavers, stones, blocks, or even wood. You do not want the water barrel to tip over or fill up unevenly. Remember that a standard-size rain barrel is 55 gallons, which means it weighs more than 400 pounds when full of water!
Examples of how to raise the barrel up higher to make the lower spigot more accessible for a watering can or bucket.
Installing the rain barrel
Most 55-gallon rain barrels will get full in a matter of minutes if a roof downspout is routed to fill the container, so it is very important to plan for the overflow once the barrel is full. Rain barrel or downspout diverters can be installed so that once the barrel is full, the water will then go back to following the original drainage path. There must be a plan in place to capture the excess water so that no damage is done to building foundations. Also, know that until the barrel catches water for the first time, it can be caught and blown by the wind, so it’s important to have something to weigh it down, either a brick, rock, or block. Do not add rain barrels or disconnect downspouts near septic systems or drinking wells or springs and be sure to avoid utilities such as electric, cable, internet, sewer, or gas lines. Always call Miss Utility before any digging or construction of any kind.
Search results for “rain barrel diverter.” These allow for cutting the downspout one time and installing a diverter. Once the rain barrel is filled from natural rainfall, the diverter routes the excess water back into the original drainage system. Photo: A. Bodkins
Maintaining your rain barrel
You want to be sure that you are emptying and using the water that is stored in your rain barrel as soon as possible (at least every 5-7 days) to ensure that the water stays as fresh as possible. If you have extra water in the barrel and rain is in the forecast, just let it trickle into a nearby flowerbed or hook up a drip irrigation hose so that the stored water can slowly soak into the ground. Again, one benefit of the rain barrel is to slow down water during a precipitation event and allow it to sink into the soil later on. Having a darker-colored rain barrel can help slow algae growth; however, you might need to occasionally clean your barrel with a mild bleach solution. It is also very important to keep the screen free of debris/leaves/etc. and in good condition and the lid securely in place. In climates where snow and freezing temperatures occur, rain barrels will have to be drained, and downspouts reconnected to original drainage pathways in late fall. Barrels should be stored in an outbuilding/garage or simply turned upside down so that the barrel does not freeze solid and bust. In Spring, barrels can then be reconnected and used again.
Example of a painted rain barrel. A rain barrel raised on stone blocks. Photo: Adobe Stock
Consider adding a rain barrel to your landscape today!
By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.
All photos in this article, unless otherwise noted, were shared by participants in the rain barrel program supported by the Deep Creek Watershed Foundation.
Each year, the spring and summer seasons seem to go faster and faster, and 2024 is no exception. If you have a lilac shrub, you can probably still imagine the sweet fragrance and beautiful flowers from a few months ago. I get several questions each year about lilacs, so the blog today is going to answer some of those inquiries!
A few years ago, we decided to begin excavating for our new garage in late summer, and unfortunately, had to move a lilac shrub. The transplanting was not as high of a priority as it should have been, and the shrub suffered tremendously the following year. We gave it a season to see if it would recover, but ultimately, it was too damaged. At that point, we decided to try rejuvenation pruning and cut everything back to 6” above the soil line in hopes that the shrub would come back and have a better overall shape and appearance. We had nothing to lose as the plant was suffering, not growing, and not flowering.
A lilac that was transplanted at the wrong time of the year and damaged. Photo: A. Bodkins, UME
Question: What is rejuvenation pruning?
Answer: Lilac rejuvenation pruning involves cutting the entire woody shrub back to a few inches above the soil surface. This can be done if a shrub is really scraggly or if you want to change its shape entirely. Last summer, my parents had to do a construction project behind their very large, 20+-year-old white lilac, and they had to cut it back to the ground. It seems to be rebounding just fine, though!
March 8th: First sign of life on the rejuvenation pruning. Photo: A. Bodkins, UME
June 4th: Regrowth progress. Photo: A. Bodkins, UME
Question: My lilac has not bloomed for the last several years. What could be wrong? It used to be beautiful each spring!
Answer: Lilacs need full sun to bloom. Often in people’s landscapes, as trees mature, lilacs get less sun than they once did, leading shrubs that once produced abundant, full blooms to have limited to no blooms.
Question: Why did my lilac bloom in the fall?
Answer: Environmental stress can cause out of season blooming. Some examples include drought, excessive heat, defoliation from pests, heavy pruning, insects, or diseases.
Question: What time of year should I prune my lilac?
Answer: Many spring-blooming, woody shrubs will set the flower buds for the next season’s growth in late spring or early summer, so be sure to prune for shaping and maintenance purposes as soon as the shrub is finished blooming for the current growing season.
For more information on lilacs, see the Home and Garden Information Center’s page, Lilac: Identify and Manage Problems — particularly the sections on diseases, insect pests, and heat-tolerant and powdery mildew-resistant varieties.
Photo: C. Carignan, University of Maryland Extension (UME)
Plant identification is a taxing task for gardeners and outdoor enthusiasts. Whether the plant is a weed with an invasive tendency or a plant that is bringing something positive to the landscape/natural area, solving the mystery of the correct genus and species is the first step that must be completed correctly. A plan of action for control, further research, or even just being able to share the correct ID with friends and family is then possible.
How do you correctly determine a plant’s genus and species when you don’t know where to start?
Over the years, the tools available to identify plants have changed. Not so many years ago, you needed to be trained in botany or have a strong background or history of use with plants in order to easily identify specimens. At a young age, I relied on my family to share the common names of plants. The Horticulture Judging contest offered through my local 4-H club, was my first true opportunity to be taught scientific information about plants, and I was instantly hooked because of the time, personal interest, and previous experience that I already had from studying plants in my own landscape!
There are several books that can help you learn a plant’s identity by following a key and answering different questions about the specimen. The Maryland Native Plant Society’s Recommended Books for Plant Lovers is a nice list of plant identification books. The internet has unlimited information but navigating can be a little tricky. Lastly, we now have the opportunity to install plant photo ID applications (apps) on any mobile device, and anyone can instantly know the ID of any plant! This is just one example of how technological advances have greatly impacted our gardening world and made it easier for everyone to access information.
Examples of photo identification results from PictureThis. The right-hand photo is an example of the saved plants that are available for reference at any time. Photos: Ashley Bodkins, UME
Are all plant ID apps the same?
We are bombarded with constant options in our society and that is most certainly the case with plant photo ID apps. Just a quick search on my mobile device shows more than 10 options ready to download for easy and quick plant identification services. Some services are free and some require a payment.
In my experience, most apps will probably get you to the correct genus, and from there, you may have to resort to some of the other tools that you have used in the past. Having a high-quality, clear photo of a mature plant can help any app’s accuracy. Regardless of whatever service you are using, be sure to check the results for accuracy by cross-referencing other resources.
Rutgers analyzed the accuracy of photo identification applications based on tree species. Their study can be found on their website if you are interested in seeing how the results compare.
Many people use iNaturalist, a global social network with an application that can be added to your mobile device. It offers identification services and maps of where images were taken. This post, “Let’s find skipper butterflies in Maryland using iNaturalist!”, written by Dr. Anahí Espíndola, explains how this service works and how anyone can utilize the data. It’s a very interesting read that you should check out!
With or without a photo plant app, there are some good questions to remember when searching for a plant ID. Mature plants that are complete specimens are always going to be best for a positive identification.
Is the plant a monocot (grasses, lilies, rushes, sedges) or dicot (with two seedling leaves—many herbaceous plants are in this category)?
Remember that some plants require specific details to identify, especially monocot plants. Often monocots are keyed out in charts based on tiny features that are present or absent and use technical terminology like ligules, auricles, etc. Check out this guide from Penn State for more details.
Is it an isolated specimen, or are there several specimens of the same plant?
Is there a flower on the plant? Flowers can be very helpful with figuring out the correct plant ID.
Is the plant mature? Are the leaves complete? Remember, there are simple and compound leaves. Always look for the petiole, which is the structure/stalk that connects the leaf to the stem. Leaflets of a compound leaf will not have individual petioles.
Are there seeds/fruits/nuts? Underground plant structures like rhizomes, bulbs, or crowns?
The left photo is part one of a leaflet from a shagbark hickory (Carya ovata). The right photo is the complete leaf with all 5 individual leaflets. Photos: Ashley Bodkins, UME
Find an application that you are comfortable with using. Remember to snap clear photos of complete specimens and always include fruits or flowers in the photo when you can. Be sure to use a common-sense approach to obtaining results from any application and always cross-reference the results.
Lastly, I caution you not to get too reliant on apps and still use sources such as guide books and/or memory to keep your skills sharp. It is just too easy to snap a photo and get the identification instantly with no thought-provoking memory required. I don’t fully pay attention to the results or internalize the information. We live in a fast-paced world with constant information at our fingertips. I find it rewarding to go back to basics sometimes and just take a hike or garden walk and test my knowledge without technology.
Photo: C. Carignan, University of Maryland Extension
All gardeners have challenges in their landscapes and at some point you may turn to the internet for answers. While the internet is a great tool for researching home gardening questions, it can come with challenges. These tips are meant to help guide you through successful internet searches. Remember you can always reach out to your local University of Maryland Extension office or use Ask Extension to get answers to all your gardening questions.
The first step when I begin research is to outline the goals for what I’m trying to figure out. Are you just curious? Is the plant or pest something that you want to try and control? Are you looking for a new plant to add to your garden or landscape? Maybe you are looking for the answers to multiple questions.
Two tips for searching the internet for garden answers
Tip 1: Be specific and always add the word “Extension” or “search term + Extension + your state” to the search phrase. This is helpful for finding the best science- and research- based information. This tip can help eliminate products or services. If you know your state’s Land Grant Universities, add those names to the search box, especially when searching for garden/natural resources related issues.
For example, if you want to research “spring blooming purple trees” you might search those words and end up frustrated without any specific answers.
Search results for spring blooming purple trees
If you add the word(s) Extension, or UMD Extension as in the following example, you will get results from University of Maryland:
A search for spring blooming purple trees with “UMD Extension” added brings up content from the Univeresity of Maryland.
Tip 2: Focus on something unique about the specimen— whether it be a plant, insect, flower, seed, etc., such as colors, patterns, or antennae on an insect. Odd characteristics pinpoint search results and make searching easier and faster.
Example: If you just search the word “beetle” with no descriptor words, you will get just that, a general page about beetles.
Search results are general if you use a broad term like “beetles”.
If you add more detail like color, the results begin to get more refined:
Information about black beetles from university sources
Extra details with an oddity highlighted will get you even more specific results:
A more descriptive search about beetles with long antennae and using “+ Extension” brings up more specific results from university sources.
How to be a good garden detective?
Often, this goes back to being thorough and paying attention. Our landscapes and gardens often “whisper” and do not scream. If we ignore small signs, symptoms, and clues, that is when it appears that the problem happened overnight.
Plant identification is something that many people struggle with— maybe it’s a weed, maybe a plant with an invasive tendency, or maybe it’s a plant that is bringing something positive to your landscape/natural area. Knowing exactly what the plant is is very important. We could spend a lot of time and energy reviewing botany but these tips are meant to help you build good searching habits.
Non-native watercress (Nasturtium officinale) growing in a spring-fed drainage ditch. Photo: A. Bodkins
Next month, we will explore different plant apps for your mobile device, but ultimately with or without a plant app, correct plant identification often relies on mature plants that are intact/complete– including the reproductive structures (flowers, fruits, or seeds). Consider the photo above. There are plenty of healthy specimen plants. Questions you can use to help guide your internet searching are:
What environment is the plant growing in — sun, shade, wet, dry, etc.?
Is it an isolated specimen or are there several specimens of the same plant? Is it prolific and making a monoculture, as in the photo above?
Is there a flower on the plant? Flowers can be very helpful for figuring out the correct plant ID. Some keys and guides focus primarily on flowers to identify plants.
Is the plant mature? Are the leaves complete? Remember there are simple and compound leaves. Always look for the petiole, which is the structure/stalk that connects the leaf to the stem. Leaflets of a compound leaf will not have individual petioles.
Are there seeds/fruits/nuts? Underground plant structures, like rhizomes, bulbs, or crowns?
Plant ID apps can be helpful but might not be 100% correct all the time. More on this topic next month.
Here is another view of the drainage area full of watercress. No other plants are green yet in this photo, which is another unique fact that you could potentially use in an internet search. Often non-native plants will break dormancy and begin to grow sooner which can indicate that they do not belong in this location, as is the case here.
A drainage ditch filled with non-native watercress (Nasturtium officinale) Photo: A. Bodkins
For insect or arthropod identification:
What is the type of damage you’re seeing (chewed holes or tiny dots that indicate piercing/sucking?)
How many legs?
Is it an adult insect?
Are there many others present or just one specimen?
Is there more than one type of insect? Sometimes the most obvious is not the actual problem.
Are there visible wings? How many?
Interesting colors, patterns, etc.?
Tips for collecting specimens for photos or to take to your local Extension office:
Healthy and complete specimens are very important.
Photos are a great addition to a specimen, but they must be in focus.
Keep the specimen in the best condition that is possible. Digging the entire plant is a best practice, then wrap in a wet paper towel or newspaper and place in a plastic bag/container. Keeping the plants cool until you can get them to your Extension office or plant clinic is also helpful. If there is just one specimen and you are on public property, there is always a chance that it is exotic or protected. Please consider just taking photos in these instances.
Always note any flowers/fruiting structures.
Advice and suggestions from Extension professionals can only be as good as the information provided— please do your part to submit appropriate photos/specimens.
Taking photos:
Close up and complete specimens are needed.
If there are flowers or fruits, always get a photo.
Photos of the environment are helpful to gain a better understanding of the situation.
Remember, correct identification— whether plant, insect, tree, plant disease, etc.— is the key to managing landscapes sustainably! The most frustrating part of searching the internet is that you don’t know what you don’t know— so asking a specific question about a mystery is hard. The internet is full of wonderful information, but it also has misinformation especially when taken out of context and information may be incorrect for your specific location or growing zone. Once you begin applying some of the above tips you can streamline your search experience and have better success with finding answers from reputable sources.
By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.
Invasive Asian honeysuckle (Lonicera sp.). Photo: Rachel J. Rhodes, UME
Eliminating unwanted plants is often one of the most challenging chores that gardeners face. Not introducing invasive plants is the fastest and most economical way to make a positive impact, as once invasive plants are introduced to your garden, it can take many years to eliminate these invaders from your landscape.
Invasive plants propagate and spread by many different methods, which makes controlling them difficult and different for each species. Please learn feasible control tactics provided by land-grant universities or Extension factsheets/webpages before starting. Fact-based research is the absolute first step in getting ahead of plant invaders. Often invasive plants cannot be controlled 100% in just one growing season, but preventing the plant from making seeds or spreading is better than doing nothing at all.
Questions to guide your research:
Get proper plant identification! Use Ask Extension, Local Extension Professionals, and Master Gardener Plant Clinics. Smartphone plant ID apps can give you some idea, but you should follow up and confirm the correct identification. Apps may be limited by photo quality and geographic area.
Is the plant a woody perennial, herbaceous perennial, or annual?
Has the plant been a problem for several years in your landscape, or is it a relatively new concern?
You must know how it is reproducing/spreading in your particular situation. For example, if the plant reproduces from stem/root cuttings, the last action you want to take is to mow/weed-eat/till the roots, which would cause the plant to produce hundreds of new plants.
If controlling 100% is not a feasible option, determine how you can prevent the plants from spreading or allowing them to get stronger.
If you have an invasive plant in your landscape and you really enjoy it, learn how to prevent it from spreading. For example, the spread of some plants can be prevented by removing flowers/viable seeds so that wildlife does not consume and spread them, or so that wind/rain does not blow away the seeds.
Always include “MD Extension” with internet search engines to be sure that identification and control tactics specific to Maryland are being filtered to the top of your results.
Three basic control options are categorized below.
Mechanical control
Mechanical control options are often the first step that people take in controlling unwanted plants; however, these are by far the most physically demanding and often lead to a high level of site disturbance. Examples of mechanical control are:
Pulling and digging.
Suffocation or smothering with landscape fabric, mulch, cardboard, multiple layers of newspaper, anything to block the sunlight and prevent the plant from growing.
Solarization: laying plastic over the plants to “cook” live plants and viable seeds with the heat that builds up underneath.
Cutting, repeated cutting, or mowing in hopes of weakening stored nutrients so that the plants can not regenerate. This is also done to remove the flowering/seed structures.
Biological control
Biological control options utilize something else that is alive—insects, fungi, grazing livestock animals, etc. More and more of these options are being explored; however, sometimes the control agent may be 100% specific to the problem plant, or sometimes it may be able to feed on other plants too, which is the case with the Kudzu bug.
Kudzu bug (Megacopta cribraria). Photo: Russ Ottens, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org
Chemical control through herbicide application
Foliar Applications
Cut Stem or “Hack and Squirt” Treatments
Herbicides are a management tool that may be considered when other control measures have not been successful. Sometimes this control option provides the least amount of physical labor, low soil disturbance, and is more effective than other options. Pesticides can be overwhelming and intimidating, with misinformation and inaccurate “facts” being shared. If you would like to learn more about “mode of action” and how different herbicides are classified, check out this Herbicide Mode of Action link from Purdue.
A few questions that might help you determine if it’s time to explore herbicides as an option.
Have you tried mechanical or physical control options without success?
Would one application of herbicide save the soil on the site from being excavated, dug, or destroyed?
Always use the most appropriate chemical control option by finding the plant that you want to control on the product label and following the application instructions carefully.
Remember, with any pesticide (herbicide, insecticide, fungicide, rodenticide, etc.), the Label is the LAW! This is true even with organic pesticides.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is charged with approving, analyzing, and standing behind pesticides. Before approval, these herbicides are tested and labeled for use with specific instructions to minimize negative risk to yourself and the environment. Always use in accordance with the label and keep good records.
Herbicides that are commercially available to purchase have been tested to know the recommended rates and residual activity in soils and on micro/macro organisms. There are a lot of unknowns with homemade solutions, so homemade “remedies” are not recommended.
Invasive winged burning bush (Euonymus alatus). Photo: Rachel J. Rhodes, UME
Disposal of invasive plants
The last step in controlling invasive plants is proper disposal. Leftover plant materials can lead to potential accidental new infestations.
Proper disposal guidance:
Burn– If your county/city allows the burning of yard debris, be sure to follow all safety regulations and restrictions and do not breathe the smoke.
Pile– Fully dead/dried woody material that does not have seeds/fruits and is not covered in soil (which could allow it to sprout roots) can provide great nesting and shelter sites for wildlife- Read “The Value of a Pile of Sticks in Your Yard or Landscape”.
Dry or expose debris to intense heat– place debris in a black trash bag and let it “cook” for several weeks out in the hot sun, this will ensure that there are no viable seeds in the debris and all moisture is removed so that nothing can sprout. You can then add this to compost piles or dispose of it as you would “normal” landscape trimmings.
Check with your county/city government to find out if invasive plants should go in your yard waste or regular trash.
English ivy (Hedera helix)Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica)Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus)
Let the particular plant that you are trying to control guide your management plan, and research the plant before you begin. Start control strategies on a small scale to see what works best and remember that many of the characteristics that led people to begin planting these invasives are the exact reasons that they are hard to control— some examples: wildlife resistance, good at spreading, breaking dormancy before natives early in the season. Also, keep in mind that many invasive species are a long-term fight and will require perseverance and, for best results, will require the use of different control tactics.
Lastly, once you successfully control the problem species, have a clear plan of what you will do with this space in your landscape. Installing new plants or keeping the area mulched will help prevent soil erosion or new infestations of weeds. Here is a list of recommended native plants for Maryland.
Everyone can help in the fight against invasive plants! Check the University of Maryland Extension website for an Introduction to Invasive Plants in Maryland and more information on how to reduce them. The absolute best way is to just never plant or introduce them into your landscape.
By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.
In today’s post, I am going to focus on how to embrace low-till gardening systems, but first a quick refresher on soil.
The importance of soil
Soil is a living and complex natural covering of the Earth.
Soil acts as a sponge to absorb water, nutrients, pollutants, and carbon.
Many aspects of soil cannot be changed, but properties can be managed to provide the elements needed to grow desired plants and it is the pillar of plant life in your landscape/ecosystem.
Chemical, physical, and biological components make up the living soil.
Soil scientists are only beginning to understand the complex biological systems and how important they are to overall soil health.
Topsoil is the usable portion for gardeners. Thus, all management techniques should aim to protect and enhance this valuable layer.
What you might see in a traditional in-ground garden with soil tilled in between the rows of desired plants. Image by Nadezhda56 from Pixabay
Pros and cons of tilling garden soil
In-ground gardening techniques have long been the method of vegetable gardening used in large-scale production. This system focuses on the mechanical tilling of a section of the earth. This soil is prepared and then seeds or transplants are placed in rows. In between these rows of plants is the walkway, which is either tilled at regular intervals or mulched to prevent weeds from growing. This technique works well but results in high levels of soil disturbance. Mechanical tillers require the use of a motor or a large amount of physical labor/exertion if done by hand. Once the soil is tilled, it is more likely to suffer from soil compaction.
100% no-till gardening options
For alternative gardening methods that are 100% no-till, learn more by visiting these links:
Although tilling is the easiest and fastest way to create new planting areas and is also used as a weed control option, mechanical tilling of the soil (especially multiple times throughout the season) breaks down its structure and can reduce soil quality.
Negative effects of repeated mechanical tillage
Repeated tillage:
Breaks down organic matter. The more often you are churning the soil the more the natural structure can be degraded and compacted. It disturbs natural pathways for water flow and for soil macro- and microorganisms.
Reduces soil stability by breaking apart aggregates.
Exposes rocks and deeper layers of soil that are less developed.
Exposes the seed bank of the soil to light and allows new weed seeds to germinate.
Differences between conventional and low-till systems
Low-till gardening systems often look different than traditional gardening systems. Low-till management techniques focus more on installing permanent pathways that are not disturbed yearly. These pathways may be outlined with stones or other permanent items. In the actual planting bed, low tilling is done with a handheld tool to create the planting space. Often these tilled areas would be smaller in size.
Implement these practices slowly and expand as you have success.
Use a broadfork to loosen the topsoil, but do not dig deeper than necessary. This allows the natural pathways made by micro- and macroorganisms (earthworm tunnels) and plant roots to stay intact.
Keep the soil covered. Use mulch to prevent erosion. Mulch sourced from your landscape such as pine needles, grass clippings, clean straw, newspaper, cardboard, etc. can be used.
Mother Nature always wants the soil to be covered. If you disturb the soil and do not cover it with mulch or other weed barrier, plants, or seeds, then weeds will grow. Wind and rain can quickly dissipate topsoil— replacing one inch of natural topsoil can take 500-1000 years! If the soil is covered it should not be as easy to wash or blow away.
Add organic matter– whatever you have readily available. Mushroom compost, bagged cow manure, homemade compost, leaves, grass clippings, kitchen waste, etc.
Plant crops (cover crops, green manure) that will be cut down and left to decompose naturally in the soil or lightly turned in with a broadfork.
Malabar spinach growing with corn. Example of companion planting in a no-till garden. Image by MAURÍCIO UCHÔA Bruttos from Pixabay
More on low-till gardens
Low-till is part of some permaculture practices. Permaculture practices have a goal of creating “permanent” growing spaces that utilize natural self-sustaining systems. Some of these permaculture practices can be adapted and used in our landscapes, especially those that include native plant areas, perennial fruits, and herbs. Other terms that incorporate these ideas and principles are food forests or forest gardening.
Tillage is a good tool, just remember to use it at the right time and for the right purpose to capture the benefits. Good soil management practices may be open to interpretation based on your personal goals for your garden space and remember that what makes sense in your landscape doesn’t always have to match what others are doing. If you are seeing positive results, then keep trying new techniques.
I hope that this Spring finds you dreaming and excited about the upcoming growing season and making a positive impact in adding diversity to your landscape.
