How to Make a Rain Barrel System for Your Yard and Garden

rain barrels are tucked into landscape shrubs next to a building
An example of a home rain barrel system. Photo: Adobe Stock

The extreme heat and lack of precipitation this season have forced many people to get creative with finding a way to water their gardens. Rain barrels are a great addition to your outdoor space!

Rain barrels can be sophisticated with features like valves, hoses, etc., or they can be any type of container that holds water. Please remember that the container should be food-grade so that nothing toxic will leach out of the container and there should be a mesh screen/net over the top so that mosquitoes cannot enter to lay their eggs. 

green rain barrels
Example of a rain barrel system with a screened lid.

Stormwater runoff

Anytime precipitation flows across the land, it becomes runoff. Precipitation may infiltrate into the soil or run off into streams, bodies of water, drains, or evaporate back into the atmosphere. In nature, most precipitation is absorbed by trees and other plants, or it may permeate or “soak” into the ground, which results in recharging groundwater supplies and bodies of water. However, when there are impervious surfaces (pavement, buildings/roofs, and other structures and materials covering the soil), this precipitation can no longer soak into the soil and has to go somewhere else. When stormwater is not managed correctly, it can result in catastrophic consequences such as stream bank erosion, flooding, pollution, threats to human health, and tainted water supplies. The University of Maryland Extension provides more information on stormwater management in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed

Environmental Site Design practices from the Maryland Department of the Environment have changed the way residential stormwater is managed and recommend that homeowners address stormwater discharge at the individual level. Individuals can make a difference by reducing the quantity and improving the quality of any stormwater that is leaving their specific property. It is important to realize that activities on your property can adversely affect neighboring landscapes, as water does not follow property boundaries. Penn State’s Homeowners Guide to Stormwater Management is an awesome resource to help you investigate your property and see what changes you can make. With stormwater, you want to slow it down and let it soak into the soil and one of the ways that you can do this is by utilizing a container for rainwater collection. 

a row of green rain barrels
A rain barrel distribution in Garrett County was sponsored by Deep Creek Watershed Foundation in 2024. It has shared 190 free rain barrels with the community! 

Rainwater harvesting is when a device such as a barrel or cistern is used to catch natural precipitation. These containers are often positioned at the edge of a building drainage system, above or below the ground, and are examples of micro-scale stormwater management techniques to slow down a small amount of water and use it later when there is no precipitation. This allows the capture and re-use of rainwater to promote water conservation, reduce runoff volumes, and the discharge of pollutants downstream. 

Using stored rainwater can decrease municipal water usage (allowing this potable water for vital drinking) and provide a source of water that is free from chlorine, fluoride, etc. Water that is caught in a rain barrel is considered non-potable and not safe for human consumption— no bathing, no drinking, and no cooking. It can be used for watering plants and lawns, rinsing tools, adding to a compost pile, filling ornamental ponds and bird baths, washing vehicles, or even flushing toilets during a power outage. Please note that there is some special guidance for using rain barrel water to water a vegetable garden. The Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station has a great fact sheet that outlines some of the cautions and best practices and recommendations that include using bleach to reduce contaminants, using the water on the soil only, and not harvesting vegetables at the same time that you are watering. 

Preparing your site for rain barrel installation

Identify where you will be placing your rain barrel. Be sure to think about how you will use your rainwater and if you need to raise the barrel to get a watering can, bucket, etc., under the nozzle to empty the barrel. The site should be clean of debris and level. If it’s not level, build a platform out of rocks, pavers, stones, blocks, or even wood. You do not want the water barrel to tip over or fill up unevenly. Remember that a standard-size rain barrel is 55 gallons, which means it weighs more than 400 pounds when full of water! 

Installing the rain barrel

Most 55-gallon rain barrels will get full in a matter of minutes if a roof downspout is routed to fill the container, so it is very important to plan for the overflow once the barrel is full. Rain barrel or downspout diverters can be installed so that once the barrel is full, the water will then go back to following the original drainage path. There must be a plan in place to capture the excess water so that no damage is done to building foundations. Also, know that until the barrel catches water for the first time, it can be caught and blown by the wind, so it’s important to have something to weigh it down, either a brick, rock, or block. Do not add rain barrels or disconnect downspouts near septic systems or drinking wells or springs and be sure to avoid utilities such as electric, cable, internet, sewer, or gas lines. Always call Miss Utility before any digging or construction of any kind. 

Internet search results for rain barrel diverter
Search results for “rain barrel diverter.” These allow for cutting the downspout one time and installing a diverter. Once the rain barrel is filled from natural rainfall, the diverter routes the excess water back into the original drainage system. Photo: A. Bodkins

Maintaining your rain barrel 

You want to be sure that you are emptying and using the water that is stored in your rain barrel as soon as possible (at least every 5-7 days) to ensure that the water stays as fresh as possible. If you have extra water in the barrel and rain is in the forecast, just let it trickle into a nearby flowerbed or hook up a drip irrigation hose so that the stored water can slowly soak into the ground. Again, one benefit of the rain barrel is to slow down water during a precipitation event and allow it to sink into the soil later on. Having a darker-colored rain barrel can help slow algae growth; however, you might need to occasionally clean your barrel with a mild bleach solution. It is also very important to keep the screen free of debris/leaves/etc. and in good condition and the lid securely in place. In climates where snow and freezing temperatures occur, rain barrels will have to be drained, and downspouts reconnected to original drainage pathways in late fall. Barrels should be stored in an outbuilding/garage or simply turned upside down so that the barrel does not freeze solid and bust.   In Spring, barrels can then be reconnected and used again. 

Resources for building a rain barrel

Rain Barrels: How to Build Your Own, Part 1 | Rutgers New Jersey Extension

Rain Barrels:  Why, When, & How| University of Maryland Extension, Garrett County, archived webinar

Consider adding a rain barrel to your landscape today!

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.

All photos in this article, unless otherwise noted, were shared by participants in the rain barrel program supported by the Deep Creek Watershed Foundation.  


Smart Watering Helps Plants Beat the Heat

Cole Porter was right. It’s too darn hot. 

As we watch the high temps stubbornly refuse to budge, it’s tempting to hunker down indoors and let our gardens go. Don’t. Those plants really need us now.

The best thing you can do to help is to water well. That means watering deeply less often.  

a show of water from a hose - watering a garde plant
Water at the base of plants to soak the roots.
Photo: Miri Talabac, UME

Daily sprinkles do more harm than good, stimulating shallow roots, which have a harder time drawing up the water plants need.  

Light watering also encourages tomatoes and peppers to develop black, leathery blossom end rot

So water vegetable plants deeply twice a week. Dial it back to once a week when things cool down.   

Watering in the morning is best as is directing water to the base of plants.  

If you planted new trees or shrubs this year, water them slowly and deeply at least once a week to soak the root ball. Use a soaker hose, a 5-gallon bucket with a few nail holes, or a hose on a slow trickle. 

a green tree bag placed around the trunk of a tree
Tree bags help to keep trees and shrubs well watered. 
Photo:  Joe Murray, Bugwood.org

And no, rain is not enough. Here are a few more tips on watering trees and shrubs.

If you’re growing anything in containers, check those pots daily. Most need to be watered every day.  And do some supplemental watering in your perennial beds. Everything is dry, dry, dry.

Smart tools make watering easier and use less water.

Soaker hoses – made from recycled tires – water plants slowly at the base of plants so you don’t lose water to evaporation.  

Drip irrigation does the same and lets you customize water zones. I can’t say enough good things about the drip irrigation system on a timer in my vegetable beds.  

a drip irrigation system set up in a raised bed garden
Drip irrigation saves time and money.
Photo:  Robert Cook

Rain barrels are a godsend. An eighth of an inch of rain on the average roof fills a 50-gallon barrel.  That’s free water, folks. I have four rain barrels and plan to add two more.  

a rain barrel next to a garden
Rain barrels capture rain from roofs to reduce water bills. 
Photo:  Rutgers University

Avoid watering with sprinklers. Overhead watering can promote disease and cause the loss of up to 80 percent of water to evaporation. 

Here are some more tips on conserving water and using smart tools. 

In addition to boosting plants’ water needs, heat zaps plants in other ways. 

Have you noticed flowers falling off your tomato plants? Sustained high temps prevent pollination, causing plants to jettison their blooms. Don’t worry. Flowering and fruiting will restart when it cools.

Trees react to high heat, too. Many are raining down leaves. This is a natural stress reaction. In fact, trees don’t need all their leaves. They’re just shedding some to cut down on maintenance. 

Unless the leaf loss is dramatic, those trees will be just fine.  

Lawns are feeling the heat as well, browning here, there, and everywhere. They are not – I repeat not – dead. Lawns naturally go dormant in high heat and will spring back with rains. Only new lawns need to be watered.

If you’d like to boost your landscape’s resistance to heat and drought – and the need for supplemental watering – add some water-wise plants.  

Deep-rooted, well-adapted native plants are a great choice. So are plants with fleshy leaves or roots, blue leaves, skinny or fuzzy leaves – all natural adaptations that mean these plants need less water. Think sedum, iris, lavender, threadleaf coreopsis, and lamb’s ear. 

Here are some tips for creating a more climate-resilient landscape.

Watering wisely and picking the right plants will help you build a more heat-resilient landscape that can not only beat the heat but look good doing it.     

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.