DIY garden structures with materials you have on hand

I had a lot of goals for improving my garden since last year’s adventure which meant new things to build! However, with the current prices of lumber and materials, plus my only basic carpentry skills, I didn’t want to go all out creating beautiful, sturdy, perfect designs and structures from new materials purchased specifically for these builds.

I wanted to quickly build tomato support, floating row cover, a large trellis for climbing plants, deer fence, and a garden gate all without spending too much at the hardware store or spending a ton of time planning. That meant largely using scrap wood I had laying around or cheap materials like PVC, and going for it.

MEGA TRELLIS

I’m trying tromboncino squash this year which really climbs, and I also wanted to allow cucumbers to climb, so I thought I’d build some sort of large support object. I had a bunch of 2×2, 10 ft long lengths of wood left from contractor work in my basement and thought that would be good material. I wanted something tall that I could walk under and pluck vegetables from. Plus, I wanted it to be non-permanent.

I decided to make this ladder-like structure with a hinge at the top so that I can collapse it and store it in the garage without taking up a lot of space. I bought a metal threaded rod, drilled holes through the wood at the ends that would make the apex of the structure, and ran the rod through those holes to make a hinge. The rest is built with wood screws. Metal eyelets were screwed into the wood so that I could run twine crisscrossed through the structure to allow plants to climb.

The structure was a bit wobbly on its own since it is so tall and not wide, so I worried about it getting blown over during a storm — especially with leafy plants acting as sails. I tied rope to two cinder blocks that pull down and away to give it more stability.

Fence panel tomato hangers

I saw these cool tomato clips online; you can have some sort of structure to hang a string from, then use these clips to fasten joints of the tomato plant to the string to hold it up. With these, all I would have to do for tomato support is to make some sort of triangle or tripod with a high point I could tie string to. It seemed like a simple way to build something. Also, I liked the way my trellis folded flat for storage.

Again, leftover from contractor work, I had some parts of wood fencing from a recently replaced segment of fence I had done. I took off a bunch of the boards, leaving the two outside ones connected by the horizontal segments, and connected two of the removed boards to the others via hinges at the top. I added more horizontal support at the top and bottom, then added eyelets at the top crossbar to tie rope to. This fits right in my 4’x4′ tomato bed. The strings hang down and with the clips, hold up the tomatoes.

Easy PVC piping structures

I went to the hardware store and picked up several lengths of 5 ft white PVC pipe and a handful of T connectors. I didn’t have an exact plan, and I probably should have bought a bit more of everything, but I was able to start with building floating row cover for some of my squash, and then when that wasn’t needed, I reconfigured it into support for my tomatoes.

Collapsed tomato structure
Collapsed tomatoes

I cut the pipes: some in a third and 2/3 lengths. Connecting them with the T connectors, bending, and wedging the ends of the pipes into the corners of the raised beds, I was able to make an archway over my 4ft square section of raised bed. For floating row cover on squash, I draped row cover fabric over it and pinned it down with bricks around the edges. For tomato support, I drilled a few holes, screwed eyelet hardware in, attached twine, and used tomato clips to hold up tomatoes.

The 1/2in pipe is a little flimsy, and I ran out of enough pipe to make as much support as I wanted.

I left on vacation for a week and came back to totally collapsed tomatoes. No big surprise there. This design is good for row cover, but not for tomatoes beyond a certain point. I need stronger materials for this one.

After the PVC failure, I wanted a quick way to build something that would hold up the tomatoes. I’m running low on quality materials, so I made this unimpressive support out of two fence panel boards, and the other longest piece of scrap wood I had around. Two wood screws connect them at the top. I don’t think I will keep this for next year as it isn’t collapsible, isn’t that sturdy, and I would hope to make something better if I need something next season. Clips were used again to hold up the plants.

Micro deer fence

I’ve got one 4’x4′ raised bed segment with corn in it that got devastated last year, presumably by deer. Originally this year, I was planning on building a tall deer fence around my entire garden area, similar to this one. I understood that the fence doesn’t need to be particularly strong – just tall enough they couldn’t jump it.

Then I had the idea, “Dan, you clever guy – why don’t you fence ONLY the corn and save a lot of effort!” So I decided to make a tall, twine fence around just the corn.

Again, with leftover fencing boards, I just screwed four of the boards vertically to the walls of the raised beds, tapped some nails in them for string, and wove twine around the whole thing.

It was soon after I finished stringing this thing up that I realized the error in my logic (most readers here were probably yelling at their screens): yeah, a deer cannot jump into my corn field, but they sure could stick their snouts through the gaps in the twine and much fairly unhindered.

I mused about stapling a segment of the rodent fence material used for the outer fence around the four boards, but in the end, laziness and the sense of experimentation helped me decide to leave it as-is and see what happened. Perhaps the deer would be weirded-out enough by the twine to leave it alone.

As of this writing, we are beginning to harvest corn, and it hasn’t been touched which is further than we got last year. Fingers crossed this trend continues.

Building is fun

It’s been fun building. I’ve done this all without breaking out a ruler or tape measure! Mostly, it’s hammer, nails, wood screws, drill, and string that I’m using. Nothing fancy. Luckily, produce does not care if all corners are square, and good enough is generally good enough if you don’t have to support more than a couple plants.

The last item I’ll mention is a little gate panel built from the absolute last pieces of the 2×2 wood. I didn’t even have enough to make a diagonal cross piece that went from corner to corner. I stapled a bit of wire fencing onto it and put a slide bolt to shut it. My wife was tired of having to hop the wire fence to get into the garden, so this was the solution. Again, not strong or beautiful, but it works.

Vegetab

Feel free to take a look at my posts from last year’s growing season.

– Dan Adler
HGIC Web Support and Video Production

Semi-novice Gardener – Raised Bed Vegetable Garden Adventure (vol. 3)

Hi all!  It’s time for check-in #3 on my summer gardening efforts.  Overall, things are going well, but there have been big ups and downs.

The new raised bed we built is doing well.  Krysten planted corn in the center one, and a couple cucumber seedlings in the rightmost one.  The cucumbers have been slow to develop and grow.  I think this is because of the extreme heat.  In the last week or two, one’s growth has accelerated and it’s finally growing one nice cucumber.  I may harvest it and slice it up to use as an ingredient in a nice summer cocktail drink tonight (It’s Friday as I write this draft!). Do a web search for “porch swing” cocktail recipes.

Since we got the fencing up that encloses the whole space, we have had 0 evidence of animals munching our crops!  Huzzah!  However, we DID see one deer in our yard and it was eating our hostas elsewhere on our property (and has continued to; the hostas are mostly gone now).  So, we DO have deer, but they haven’t been interested in our vegetables (yet).  I wonder if they don’t like walking on the gravel we have down?

Tomatoes

We have been harvesting a lot of tomatoes! One of our plants grew very large and tall and ended up flopping over the tomato cages we built in the last update.  We needed something taller!  We were worried that the tropical storm in the first week of August was about to topple the biggest one completely, so we hurriedly built an extension.  We found some scrap wood in the garage, attached it vertically to the sides of the raised bed, and strung twine around nails in the boards back and forth from board to board.  This seems to hold it up well and while the tropical storm wasn’t too bad here, there was no damage afterward.  We need to do the same for our second largest one this weekend.

Taller tomato support
Taller tomato support

The early blight issue I spoke about in the last update has seemed to be controlled by pruning more heavily and keeping air flowing.  However, our smaller tomato plant has been slow to fruit and has some holes/spots on the leaves.  After perusing the HGIC site, my guess was that it was Septoria leaf spot which is a fungal disease, however as a couple knowledgeable HGIC coworkers proof-read this post, they said it was actually most likely from flea beetles. It may sound like I’ve got the inside connection with experts, but everyone can send in questions to our Certified Professional Horticulturists for help like this!

Septoria leaf spot on my tomato plant
Flea beetle damage on my tomato plant

There are prevention and control directions on the HGIC page for flea beetles, but since the damage isn’t large at the moment, I think we’ll leave it as-is now, and plan to clean up and remove garden debris to reduce overwintering sites for the beetles when we wind down the growing season this year.

Overall though, we’ve been harvesting more tomatoes than we know what to do with, so we’re happy with our tomato efforts here! I’m considering making a whole lot of sauce.

Tomato harvest
Tomato harvest

Squash and zucchini

In the last update, I mentioned I suspected squash vine borer larvae to be killing my zucchini plant from the inside.  I did the surgery and discovered I was right.

Squash vine borer larvae in zucchini plant
See the white larvae in the center, lower third of the image?

I remember reading on the HGIC site at some point that in general with cucurbits, you can cover parts of the plant that grow above the soil with soil, and they will begin to root.  I cut the plant to disconnect the borer-infested segment (which was pretty much down into the roots) from the good parts.  I ripped out the roots and infested stuff, then planted the remaining stuff back in, mounding soil over it.

For a few weeks, things seemed promising.  Most of the large leaves did not make it, but some younger and new leaf sprouts were growing strong, and a small fruit started growing.  This suggested to me that after some time, we’d likely have this zucchini plant back from the dead and producing again.  However, that little fruit died and rotted, and the leaves and stems suddenly showed damage.

Our squash had been doing great.  It kept producing great fruit at a rapid pace, and kept expanding.  It was healthy; not showing damage from squash vine borers or cucumber beetles like the zucchini had.  It expanded outside of the raised bed and sometimes those leaves would appear wilted.  We assumed it was because of the extra heat from the gravel and the hot sun.

All was going well until a few days ago – it began wilting everywhere and wasn’t recovering.  Fruit production stopped.  We took a closer look, and we’re seeing the same squash vine borer type damage we saw with the zucchini!  Noooo!  It looked pervasive.  I wasn’t about to do more larvae extraction (it was gross, and squash isn’t my favorite vegetable).

So, we called it on both the zucchini and the squash plants.  2:35 pm, Friday, August 10th, 2020.  We ripped them out and tossed them far from the garden.  We’re making space for some sort of cooler season crops (the planning hasn’t started yet).

Next year, we are absolutely taking the following prevention steps (taken from the HGIC page on squash vine borers):

  • To prevent egg-laying, wrap a collar of aluminum foil around lower stems or dust or spray lower stems with spinosad or pyrethrum.
  • Cover plants with floating row cover until flowering.
  • Plant early to lessen injury. Use transplants instead of seeds. Or, plant squash seed mid-June.
  • Butternut and cushaw are resistant; yellow crookneck less susceptible than zucchini.

Green beans

We’ve been harvesting a few green beans from the mature plants that survived the rodent massacres that happened before we got the fence up, but it wasn’t enough to make a meal out of.  Several weeks ago, I planted more seeds to replace the eaten ones and those have grown and should be fruiting soon.  I hope that we can have some dinners with roasted green beans soon; they are my favorite of our garden veggies after tomatoes (and since tomatoes are fruit, I could say that green beans are my favorite veggies).

The zinnia we planted in the center of the green beans has gotten large and is crowding them.  We will likely try to tie it up to keep it more vertical than horizontal.

There are a couple bean leaves with holes munched out of them from some insect, but nothing to be too concerned about yet.

Moving forward

We’re still having fun with the garden.  It’s great to be done building for the most part.  Krysten has been adding a few pots on the outskirts with flowers in them which makes the space look nice.  I think in the next season, we’ll probably add more flowers in pots and save the beds for the vegetables.  The flowers have overcrowded vegetables in some instances in the raised beds, and we should be able to attract pollinators close enough to the vegetables via potted flowers.

I’m looking forward to more tomatoes and our first meal with green beans.  Perhaps in the next update, I may present our plan for cool-season crops.

View previous updates:

– Dan Adler
HGIC Web and Communications Manager

Resisting Mosaic Viruses in Cucurbits

I grow most of my vegetables in a community garden plot: sunny, cheerful, with soil I’ve been improving with free compost for years now. It’s a good situation, but while community gardeners can share labor, tools, plants and seeds, they also end up sharing pests and diseases. Our garden has been suffering from a problem I never encountered at home or in the Derwood demo garden: mosaic virus on cucumbers and squash. Mostly I have dealt with this problem by the highly scientific method designated Not Even Trying, but this year I really want to succeed. So, some research!

Potyvirus infection of pumpkin
Potyvirus infection of pumpkin
credit Dr. Gerald Brust, UME

Continue reading

Squash Family Pest Problem Tips

CucumberThe squash plant family (Cucurbitaceae) includes many garden favorites- cucumber, summer and winter squash, pumpkin, muskmelon, and watermelon. Unfortunately, it’s a family vulnerable to some of the most consequential insect pest and disease problems. The names squash bug, cucumber beetle, squash vine borer, downy mildew, and bacterial wilt strike fear in a gardener’s heart. And those just represent the starting team. The legion of potential pest problems is sufficient to bring the toughest gardener to his knees sobbing in anguish.

But there’s hope for the human animals competing against insects, mites, and pathogens for these valued food resources. There are many ways to prevent and manage these problems and these are covered in detail on the HGIC website. Here are a few strategies that I think are less widely used. Give them a try in your pursuit of higher yields with fewer tears!

  1. Select disease resistant cultivars. Cornell University’s Vegetable MD Online website has a matrix for each vegetable crop that lists all major diseases and cultivars with resistance claims. They even include seed companies that sell the seeds! Special note: ‘County Fair’ cucumber is resistant to bacterial wilt; butternut and ‘Tromboncino’ squash are fairly resistant to squash vine borer.
  2. Apply floating row covers when seedlings emerge or transplants go in. The material excludes all critters. Remove the cover when plants start to bloom.
  3. Plant around insect pests by planting healthy transplants as soon as conditions allow or waiting until mid-June to plant seeds. Plant pumpkin and winter squash from late June to July 4th.
  4. Keep planting. Cucumber and summer squash can be sown several times, 2-3 weeks apart.
  5. Scout your plants for signs and symptoms of problems and take action early!

Continue reading

The Three Sisters Garden

IMG_3946
Our planting in July

This year at the Derwood Demo Garden we acquired some new planting space, which I decided to use for a growing technique we just haven’t had the square footage for in many years: a Three Sisters garden. Growing corn, beans, and squash together in this symbiotic way is an innovation of several Native American peoples, particularly the Haudenosaunee or Iroquois. Each of the sisters has a role: the corn, grown in small groups in separate hills, creates a tall structure; the beans twine up the corn and stay high up for picking; the squash spreads out to suppress weeds and deter animals. Continue reading