Root Crops in the Fall

Radish, golden beets, and white turnip

If you’re seeing all kinds of lovely root vegetables at farmer’s markets this time of year, start planning now so you can grow them yourself next fall! I am so glad I decided to put in seeds for beets, turnips, and radishes back in August. These are all super-easy crops to grow, if you follow a few simple guidelines.

Here are the steps from thought to harvest:

  • Plan ahead! Buy your seeds for fall planting when you get the ones for spring and summer, because they may be hard to find later on. (Autumn root crops are usually grown from seed; buying plants is a waste of money since you only get one root per plant.) Radishes, beets, turnips, and carrots are all good choices.
  • Make space. Allowing room for fall crops can be difficult in a small garden. If some of your summer crops are not looking too great, take them out and prepare the bed for fall seeding. Or plant a bed with a summer cover crop or a quick-growing crop you know you’ll be removing soon, such as bush beans.
  • Prepare your soil. Root crops like a loose soil – try inserting a trowel into the soil, and if you have to force it in, you will not get a great root harvest. Add some compost! Raised beds provide the ideal environment, since the soil seldom gets compacted. Make sure your planting area gets plenty of sun.
  • Know how long your root crops will take to mature. It’s disappointing to not get edible roots because you didn’t allow enough time. Check HGIC’s planting guides for general information on timing, and also check the seed packet which will give you specifics for the variety you’re growing. Root crops are hardy and will tolerate frosts, so you can plan harvest for anytime from early October to late November, but the later you start the seeds, the slower the plants will grow. (This has more to do with the amount of sun than the temperature.) For a crop that lists 60 days to maturity from seeding, plant in mid-August (you’re allowing an extra week or two for the fall slowdown). Quicker crops like radishes can be planted in succession from late August to late September. Most root crops will sit in the ground just fine in cool weather, so you can harvest them as you need them.
  • Plant as directed. Don’t worry too much about spacing since you will be thinning later on.
  • Keep paying attention as the plants grow. Water regularly if it doesn’t rain, and take out weeds as soon as you can recognize which are the desirable plants. If your soil is low in phosphorus or potassium (which is unlikely), you may need to fertilize, but regular additions of compost through the year usually do the trick with these quick-growing crops. Thin the seedlings when they are several inches high – this means pulling out the plants in between a final set that are several inches apart. Think about what the roots will look like in maturity (what they look like when you buy them), and allow that much room plus a bit extra between plants. I find it easier to thin in two stages, taking out bunches when the plants are small and then a few more as they mature. You can eat the thinnings in salads, if you wish; they’re all edible and delicious.
  • Harvest when ready! All of these root crops will show some of the root portion above the soil, so you can check on size without pulling them out.

In practice, I’m often not on top of thinning, and it was hard to water enough this year with our persistent drought. So some of my root crops, especially the beets, are smaller than they should be. (On the other hand, some of the radishes are enormous.) But even with mistakes I manage to get good results! Try root crops next year and harvest some treasure from underground.

By Erica Smith, Montgomery County Master Gardener. Read more posts by Erica.

How many plants to plant (in vegetable and herb gardens)

One of the most common questions asked by novice vegetable and herb gardeners is “How many?” That is, how many of each plant to put in, so that the harvest will be enough to make dinner but not so much that you’re frantically trying to find homes for a major surplus. When you plan an ornamental border, there are design guidelines that talk about groups and masses and specimen plants, but food gardens (although they can be beautiful) are not planted with aesthetics primarily in mind. So how to make these choices?

You can find plenty of guides online for, say, planning a garden for a family of four. These tend to assume that your garden is large and that you want to supply all or most of your needs from it. Which is great if that’s your goal, but I don’t find that many of the busy urban and suburban gardeners I talk to mean to skip the supermarket produce section entirely. The online guides will also measure the planting in feet of row; if you grow in the square footage of raised beds, you’ll have to do some recalculation. Growing in these kinds of high volumes probably also requires food preservation, whether by freezing, canning, or some other method.

Your garden does not need to be planted in long, long rows to be productive

Most of us find the answer to “How many?” through trial and error, and frankly you probably can’t avoid that entirely. You’ll err on the side of not enough for some plants, and too much for others, and will serve some salads featuring a handful of lettuce or one small cucumber, or get to know your neighbors when you have tons of extra tomatoes. But there are ways to plan.

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