Proper Care Extends the Beauty of Holiday Plants

red poinsettia plants
Well-kept poinsettias can bloom for up to 8 weeks.

Poinsettias and amaryllis and paperwhites, oh my. These holiday beauties add grace to our homes but need proper care to keep up their show. 

Caring for Poinsettias

Poinsettias are the divas of holiday decor. Their colorful bracts – modified leaves that change color – deliver an instant “wow” factor. But like all divas, they can be challenging.  

They like bright, not direct, light and prefer daytime temps between 60 and 70 degrees and nighttime temps in the mid-fifties. They hate drafts, so keep them away from heat vents, fireplaces, doors, and windows.   

Water them only when the soil is dry. Let the water run through the bottom of the pot. Good drainage is crucial.  

Foil wraps are pretty but problematic. So poke a hole in the foil for drainage and set your poinsettias on a pretty plate or tray. A well-kept poinsettia will bloom for six to eight weeks.  

I toss my poinsettias at the end of the season (cue the gasps), but determined, thrifty, or thrill-seeking gardeners keep them going from year to year. Here’s how it’s done.

Cut back your poinsettias in early May to 3 inches and repot them into a soilless potting mix. 

Move them outdoors after all danger of frost has passed, usually mid-May. Start them out in the shade and introduce more sun over several weeks. When the new growth is 2 inches tall, start fertilizing every month.  

Pinch or prune out the tips of branches when the new growth reaches 4 inches and again after the new growth reaches 2 or 3 inches. Stop pinching in early September.

Bring your poinsettias inside in late September before the nighttime temperatures dip below 60 degrees. Cut back on fertilizer and put the plants in bright light.  

Now comes the fun part.  

Poinsettias need a period of darkness since shorter days trigger their “flowering.” So, put yours in a dark closet or box for at least 14 hours every day until Thanksgiving. 5:00 p.m. to 7:00 a.m. works well.   

Next, bring your poinsettias back into full-time light and get ready to enjoy another show.  

Caring for Paperwhites

Another holiday favorite, paperwhites deliver a sweet perfume from dozens of white shooting star-like blooms for a month or two. 

If you received paperwhite bulbs as a gift, choose a shallow pot for forcing them into bloom. Put an inch of sterile potting mix or gravel in the pot. They grow well in both. 

Tuck the bulbs in tight, pointed ends up. Add soil or gravel until half the bulbs are covered. Water thoroughly and often to keep the bulbs moist.  

Put them in a cool, well-lit room until the shoots are an inch tall. Then move them to a warmer spot.  If their stems topple, support them with thin stakes or chopsticks tied with raffia or ribbon.  

Paperwhites bloom only once, so toss the bulbs after you’ve enjoyed their show. Sorry, no encores.

Amaryllis

Amaryllis is another holiday bulb that delivers drama. For tips on planting and care, snag our fact sheet.

red and white amaryllis flowers
Amaryllis delivers drama with clusters of colorful flowers up to 6 inches across. 

Enjoy all your holiday plants and time spent with friends and family in this most special time of year.   

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Celebrate a Gardener’s Holiday

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum sp.) is a pleasure to watch unfold.

Celebrate your green thumb this holiday season with everything from décor to gifts.

Bring the garden indoors with plants, plants, and more plants. Start some amaryllis bulbs or paperwhites. Bank poinsettias in a bay window. 

Top a delicate cyclamen with a gardening cloche or delight in the blooms of a Christmas cactus or orchid. These plants will add beauty and satisfy your need to play in the dirt.

Moth orchid (Phalaenopsis sp.). Photo: Pixabay

To keep your plants lush and lovely throughout the holiday season, check out the care tips in our Home and Garden Information Center fact sheets. Here are a few to get you started:

Go natural for decorations. Snip some holly or evergreen boughs and stuff them in baskets and pots. Add some winterberry or curly willow branches for flair. Fill a pottery bowl with pinecones.  

Native winterberry jazzes up holiday arrangements.
Photo: M. Talabac

Jazz up outside containers with evergreens and colorful branches for some welcoming eye candy.  

Weave yarrow, baby’s breath, statice, hydrangea blossoms, and other dried flowers into wreaths, swags, and arrangements. Stuff an antique pitcher with an armful of Lunaria’s silvery seed pods.  

Take a walk through a meadow with your clippers and a big basket and discover an abundance of interesting grasses, seed pods, and natural forms to enhance your holiday decorating.  

Leave them natural or dust them lightly with a bit of gold or silver spray paint for a bit of holiday sparkle.  

Next, add a few purchased decorations that mirror your passion for gardening. Tie tiny copper watering can ornaments onto your tree. Use zinc or copper plant markers as gift tags.  

And just for fun, decorate a child’s holiday tree with brightly colored kids’ gardening gloves and tools you can later donate to a school garden.

Gifts for gardeners are a breeze. Give hand-softening soaps and lotions. Wrap a bunch of fresh holly in festive tissue. Pot an amaryllis bulb or other plant in a handsome pot.  

Look for classic garden jewelry with blossoms cast in silver or gold. Or give a gift from your garden such as homemade pesto, a rooted houseplant cutting, or seeds collected from a favorite plant.   

Are you crafty? Indulge your artistic side to create homemade gifts with a gardener’s touch. 

Lavender sachets made from homegrown lavender make lovely gifts. 

I give friends tins filled with lavender cookies made with lavender from my garden. I delight in friends’ gifts of hand-stitched sachets, dried flower bunches, and potted herbs.  

I can hear the guys out there saying, “Enough with the girly stuff, whatcha got for me?” Tools, dudes.  And yes, we gals like tools, too. 

Check out your local garden centers, then hit the catalogs. Two of my favorites are Lee Valley and Gardener’s Supply. Both have quality tools and other garden gear.  

And in my book, you simply cannot go wrong with a gardening book. New or used, your favorite reads and references will help to grow your gardening friends’ libraries and know-how. 

Whether yours is a homemade or store-bought holiday, make your home and gifts a beautiful reflection of your passion for gardening.  

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

A Forgetful Gardener Makes Notes for Next Year

I’m a forgetful gardener. I always think I’ll remember next year what I put where, what varieties of tomatoes I loved, and what plant needed extra water. But I don’t.  

I’ve reached that glorious age where I forget where my glasses are (on top of my head) or where I left my hand pruners. (God knows.) 

As Dr. Seuss’ Grinch said, “I puzzled and puzzled till my puzzler was sore.” 

So this year – right now – I’m making more than mental notes and investing in a few doodads to make next year’s gardening a bit easier. 

I’ve started by breaking out my garden maps. These rough pencil sketches on graph paper tell me what I planted in each garden bed.  

I start out with grand intentions in the spring, but end up adding things willy-nilly that I forget – or am too busy – to write down.  

Now’s the time to catch up. So, I’m updating my maps and making notes because I know I won’t remember everything by the time spring rolls around.  

For further motivation, I’m starting a brand-spanking new garden journal to note what worked and what didn’t.  

A garden journal lets you note what worked and didn’t.  

What are some of my notes for 2023?

My two butternut squash plants made a grand total of – drumroll, please – two squash, so I will try yellow summer squash instead next year. I missed the peak crop of persimmons, so I’ll check them more often and earlier.

Heirloom yellow pear tomatoes produce gangbusters and are very tasty.  

I loved the taste of my yellow pear tomatoes and they produced gangbusters, so I’ll plant them again. My zinnias bloomed their heads off and are still attracting bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, so they are must-haves.

pink zinnia flower
Colorful zinnias bloom for a long time and attract pollinators. 

My bee balm got powdery mildew, so I’ll be more careful to water at the base of the plants only. One pot of annuals was always thirsty, so I’ll move that pot elsewhere. 

Make your journal your wish list, too. Jot down anything you want to add next year. I want to try strawberries, add more native plants and groundcovers, and plant a tree for privacy.

I finally got the zinc plant labels from last year’s wish list and I love them. You can write on them with a pencil and they last and last and blend well. I won’t mark everything, just key plants that help me find everything else. 

Also note in your journal any tools that would help you such as a garden kneeler, self-watering container, ratcheting pruners, or lightweight wheelbarrow. Christmas is coming, after all.  

Your journal also can be your rip-and-replace list. I’ve already banished non-native vinca from one bed and am putting together a list of native replacements. What do you want to change? 

I hope these ideas inspire you to make some notes, start a journal, and label some plants so you can start off your next garden season with less head-scratching and more action.  

Now where did I lay down my trowel?  

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Grow It Eat It 2023

This is a follow-up to my May article, Grow It Eat It Celebrates 15 Years of Teaching and Promoting Food Gardening! I visited a number of amazing Grow It Eat It (GIEI) projects and activities in 2023 that demonstrate its essential role in helping Maryland residents and communities become more food secure. 

So far in 2023, University of Maryland Extension (UME) Master Gardener Volunteers from 18 counties and Baltimore City worked 7,544 hours on GIEI projects, educating 10,125 residents! Here are some snapshots from the growing season.

Teaching the Public

List of Grow It Eat It classes offered in spring 2023

Master Gardener (MG) Volunteers and field faculty teach lots of classes and workshops each year. Carroll County has a popular series of in-person classes that are taught each spring.

Master Gardener teaching how to test soil texture.

Esther Iglich, UME Master Gardener, Carroll County, teaches students how to perform the “ribbon test” to estimate soil texture.

Teaching Master Gardeners

Master Gardener teaching a class about drip irrigation

Robert Cook, UME Master Gardener, Baltimore City, leads a hands-on drip irrigation continuing education event at the Maryland State Fairgrounds.

Master Gardeners went into the MG Learning Garden to use what they learned to help re-install the drip system.

gardeners on tour of the raised bed garden set up on University of Maryland campus

Meg Smolinski, Coordinator for the UMD Arboretum, leads a Master Gardener tour of the Community Learning Garden in front of the School of Public Health. 

gardeners taking a tour of container gardens

Deb Mayfield, UME Master Gardener, St. Mary’s Co., leads a learning tour of the GIEI container garden at their Fairgrounds.

vegetables growing in containers

The container garden is a popular stop during the county fair, demonstrating low-cost methods, like using repurposed containers for growing food in small spaces.

Community Gardens

people holding up a sign that says Farm  Unity at a community garden

UME MGs and field faculty provided technical assistance to the new Farm Unity Community Garden at the Crofton Public Library. This is a communal garden with the harvest distributed to people in need of food. The garden was initiated by Jitendra Rathod (second from left).

three gardeners at an information table for the Prince George's County Community Garden Summit

Esther Mitchell, UME Master Gardener Coordinator, with MG Volunteers Linda Campbell, and Betty Gittings at the Prince George’s County Community Garden Summit. Master Gardeners have helped start five community gardens in the county!

Demonstration Gardens

insect netting placed over a row of kale

GIEI demonstration plots and gardens allow for hands-on learning about new sustainable techniques. MG Volunteers in Montgomery County used “micro-mesh” insect netting to exclude insect pests, making insecticides (synthetic or organic) unnecessary.

potted plants and flowers in a demonstration garden

Visitors and classes also learned how to use drip irrigation with a simple timer to water container plants automatically.

a sign that says Building Your Raised Bed

Signage at the Master Gardener Learning Garden at the State Fair helps new and experienced gardeners make informed decisions. MGs from Baltimore City and 12 counties had 3,617 direct educational contacts during the State Fair.

sweet potato plants growing in a container

2023 is the Year of the Sweet Potato for GIEI. Master Gardener Volunteers demonstrated how to grow sweet potato plants on a trellis and in containers in the MG Learning Garden.

Home, school, and community gardens are essential parts of local food systems. Food gardeners collectively produce enormous amounts of produce, much of which is shared and donated. GIEI projects, classes, and demo gardens teach science-based information and practices, help connect gardeners to resources, and facilitate a shared, respectful learning environment. 

I have no doubt that more great work will be happening in 2024!

By Jon Traunfeld, Extension Specialist, University of Maryland Extension, Home & Garden Information Center. Read more posts by Jon.

September To-do Lists Nudge Gardeners

Winter squash is ready for harvest now.  Photo:  Home & Garden Information Center

I know. I know. You’re tired after a long season of gardening. Especially with all that heat we had. But there are still a few things to tick off your fall to-do list.

Have you planted your garlic yet? Now’s the time. Nestle cloves into the soil through the end of October for harvest next July. Get tips here: Growing Garlic in a Home Garden.

Even if your vegetable garden is looking ragged, keep harvesting. My cucumbers finally gave up the ghost, but I’m still getting enough tomatoes and basil for Caprese salads.

I just harvested butternut squash, too. The rind was finally hard enough not to dent with my fingernail, so they were ready. I’ll cure them for a week in a warmer room, then store them in my cooler basement. Learn more: Growing Winter Squash in a Home Garden.

And yes, I’ve started to remove spent and scruffy vegetable plants, clearing the bed of fallen fruits, leaves, and stems. And no, it’s not just because I’m a neatnik.

Soilborne diseases are the most common cause of vegetable problems. Those plant bits can harbor fungal spores which can reinfect plants year after year. 

So I’m ruthless in removing plant debris. I compost healthy plant parts, but bag and trash anything that has had disease issues.

After cleanup, I add compost. It feeds the soil, adds organic matter, improves drainage, holds nutrients, attracts earthworms, and suppresses disease. What’s not to love?

Buy compost or make your own. Mix leaves, grass clippings, kitchen scraps, and other organic materials into a pile. Stir it now and then, water it when it’s dry, and let it cook down into the best soil food ever. Learn: How to Make Compost at Home.

a gardener working on a compost bin
Master Gardener Gary Stallings turns compost in a teaching garden. Photo:  Shanon Wolf

This year I’ll top off my vegetable beds with an inch or two of compost to improve the soil and act as a winter mulch and weed blocker.  

Yes, weeds grow in winter. Winter annuals such as chickweed, henbit, and speedwell love bare soil, germinating in late summer and fall and returning vigorously in spring.

Don’t let them get a toehold. Cover bare soil with compost, mulch, or a cover crop.

Cover crops are all the rage, a classic farming technique that’s discovered new life in gardening circles. Sown from seed, they block weeds and slow erosion.

Best of all, cover crops feed and improve soil. Their deep roots mine nutrients and their leaves, stems and roots break down to add organic matter when they are turned into the soil in spring.

Many cover crops can be planted in the fall. Which is best for your garden? Find out here: Cover Crops for Gardens.

crimson clover
Crimson clover is an attractive cover crop that improves soil. Photo:  Home & Garden Information Center

After I tend to my vegetable beds, I dig and divide perennials. Most perennials should be divided every 3 years. Just lift a clump, cut it into sections, and transplant and water well.

Resist the urge to cut back your perennials in the fall. They provide crucial overwintering sites for pollinators and food for birds and other wildlife. Only cut back plants that had serious disease or insect issues.

Fall is a time to put a tidy bow on the gardening season, to lay to rest your beds after you squeeze out the last harvests. Feel the change in the air, breathe deeply, and enjoy the delicious ache of a job well done.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

  

What to Know Before Applying Pesticides in Your Garden

a man inside of a hardware store reading a pesticide label
Before using a pesticide, read the label. Photo: Oregon Department of Agriculture, CC.

You have a pest problem in your garden – maybe it is hungry insects feeding on your vegetables, or stubborn weeds taking over your flower patch, or fungal diseases killing your lawn. You might consider using pesticides (which include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides), especially if the problem seems widespread or severe. How do you choose the right pesticides and apply them correctly to support a healthy and thriving garden? How do you ensure your food plants remain safe for consumption and adverse impacts on beneficial species and soil health remain minimal?

Choosing the right pesticide

Home gardeners can generally choose between two types of pesticides: general use pesticides and minimum risk pesticides. Both pesticide types come with labels that explain how to safely handle, use, and dispose of the products. The labels of general use pesticides are reviewed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and will have an EPA registration number (highlighted by the blue rectangle on Figure 1), typically on the back panel. The labels of minimum risk pesticides are less extensive and are not reviewed by the EPA as they pose minimal risks to humans and the environment. Since these labels lack an EPA registration number, you can verify the product’s authenticity by contacting the Maryland Department of Agriculture’s State Chemist Section (410-841-2721). Alternatively, you can check out this list of approved minimum risk pesticide substances (PDF).

an example of a pesticide label for Houseplant and Garden Insect Killer
Figure 1: First representative label (back panel)

Regardless of the pesticide type, it is important to select a pesticide that has a narrow activity range. If your pest is an insect, you would ideally want a pesticide that targets insects. It would be even better if you could narrow down your insect pest – is it a caterpillar, beetle, or aphid? Some pesticides are more effective against certain pest insects (for example, see the product in Figure 2) and are therefore less likely to harm non-target insects. If you are unable to identify your pest, you can submit questions and photos to the University of Maryland’s Ask Extension service. Ask Extension will help identify the pest and recommend a course of action. 

Another important criterion for pesticide selection is human safety, which can be determined from the signal words on the front panel of the label (see the purple rectangle highlighted in Figure 2). Danger signifies high toxicity, warning signifies moderate toxicity, and caution signifies low toxicity. A pesticide that is virtually non-toxic may have no signal word. Ease of use and application frequency can also help make your choice, as it may not always be feasible to measure and mix or frequently apply the product. This information is typically part of the section on directions for use, often found by peeling open the entire label (see the black rectangle highlighted in Figure 1).

a sample label from a biological insecticide called Monterey B.t. - the caution word on the label is highlighted
Figure 2: Second representative label (front panel)

What else to look for on the pesticide label

Labels also include the following information on the front panel (see Figure 2): product brand name, ingredients, and the statement “Keep out of reach of children”. Other information found typically on the back panel (see Figure 1, which includes the label peel) are precautionary and other hazard statements, first aid, and storage and disposal sections. It is important to read all these sections properly, including the entirety of the directions for use, prior to the use of the pesticide. 

  • The precautionary statement typically includes personal protective equipment that needs to be worn during pesticide applications (for example, full-length clothes, gloves, and eye protection) and informs the period of time during which one must not enter or come into contact with the treated area. The signal words are repeated in this section. 
  • Hazard statements warn of potential hazards to the environment, including soil, water, air, wildlife, and nontarget plants. An example warning statement is “This product is highly toxic to bees”. This section may also include possible fire, chemical, or explosion hazards posed by the product.
  • First aid section recommends steps to be taken in case of accidental exposure or poisoning. The instructions vary in accordance with the route of pesticide exposure (swallowing, inhaling, contact, and eye), and include statements like “sip a glass of water if able to swallow”, and “take off contaminated clothing and rinse skin with water for 15-20 minutes”. Often, there is information on who to contact in case of a medical emergency. If you need to visit an emergency health provider, remember to take the pesticide label with you. 
  • Storage and disposal section provides information on how to store the product (for example, “store in the original container in a cool and dry place” and “protect from freezing”) and dispose of it (for example, “triple rinse the empty container” or “place the empty container in the trash”). The Maryland Department of Agriculture has often had an annual program where one could recycle an empty pesticide container for free. If you would like to dispose of unused pesticides, follow the instructions in the disposal section. Never dispose of pesticides down any indoor or outdoor drain. Many Maryland counties offer options to safely recycle or dispose of household hazardous waste, including lawn and garden pesticides. Current or retired farmers and producers can also avail of a free pesticide disposal program offered by the Maryland Department of Agriculture.
  • Directions of use section instructs how to properly use the product. This section typically includes a description of intended uses, mixing and application methods, use rates, and sites where the product may be used. It can also include application restrictions – this consists of statements like “do not apply if rain is predicted within the next 48 hours” or “do not apply when bees are actively foraging”. In many labels, application restrictions are also found within the hazard statements section. 

Why is it important to follow the label?

A pesticide is any substance that prevents, destroys, repels, or mitigates pests. Thus, by nature, pesticides negatively impact living organisms. Federal law states that the EPA must ensure that pesticides entering the marketplace do not cause “unreasonable adverse effects to humans or the environment”. To carry out this mandate, the EPA assesses a variety of factors, including data on the pesticide’s chemistry, human health effects, environmental effects, etc. These data help inform the label language ̶ if the label is appropriately followed, the pesticide product should not cause unreasonable adverse effects to humans or the environment. For example, if a pesticide is highly toxic to fish, the hazard statement of the label would include a sentence like “Do not allow pesticide to enter or run off into storm drains, drainage ditches, gutters, or surface waters”. Applicators can be protected from unreasonable adverse effects by complying with precautionary statements like “Avoid contact with eyes” and “Wear chemical-resistant gloves”. Pesticide use/application rates are set to prevent hazardous quantities from entering the environment, including the infested plants you would like to consume. 

Given the label’s critical role in minimizing a pesticide’s negative impacts, it is little wonder that the label is the law. Remember, if you use pesticides improperly, you are legally responsible for any consequences that may occur!

References:

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Label Review Manual. https://www.epa.gov/pesticide-registration/label-review-manual

American Association of Pesticide Control Officials. FIFRA Minimum Risk Pesticides – 25(b) Product Label Guidance. https://aapco.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/fifra-minimum-risk-pesticides-label-guidance-3-12.pdf

By Niranjana Krishnan, Assistant Professor, Department of Entomology, and Maryland Pesticide Safety Education Program Coordinator

Are Baldfaced Hornets Friends or Foes?

Distinctive white marks on their heads give baldfaced hornets their name.
Photo:  Johnny N. Dell, Bugwood

It’s been a good year for baldfaced hornets. Many people have contacted me to report their grey papery nests in trees or hanging from the eaves of their homes.

So, are they good guys or bad guys? Do they need to be controlled? It’s a matter of making an informed choice. So here are the facts.

First, baldfaced hornets aren’t hornets at all. They’re black and white yellowjackets that nest in trees, shrubs, and on buildings. Since they kill many harmful pests, they are considered beneficial.

It’s only when their nests are nearby that they pose a potential threat from stinging. Left alone, they tend to be benign. They usually only sting to defend their nests. I’ve had several walk up and down my arm peaceably. 

The white marks on their head earn them their “baldfaced” moniker. Workers measure about three-quarters of an inch long and queens are slightly larger.

In the spring, overwintering queens emerge from tree bark, stumps, logs, rock piles, and other protected spots. Each queen builds a small nest with a few brood cells, lays eggs, and gathers insects to feed the growing workers.

When those workers become adults, they take over the housekeeping duties, building and taking care of the nest, foraging for food, and tending to the growing family from eggs laid by the queen.

Baldfaced hornets’ football-shaped nest is an engineering marvel. To that first handful of paper cells, workers add layer upon layer of hexagonal combs similar to those of the honey bee.

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