Native Solitary Bees: Don’t Make Your Landscape Too Tidy This Fall

ground nesting bee on leaves
Cellophane Bee (Colletes thoracicus) is a solitary bee and valuable pollinator that nests in the ground. Photo by Hadel Go

Cooler evening temperatures might have you switching gears from planting and maintaining your landscape to fall decorating and garden cleanup chores. While cleaning up diseased and pest-infested plants in your yard and garden are important to prevent problems in the future, consider leaving healthy plants that could add visual interest this winter and provide nesting sites for many beneficial critters.

With more than 400 species of native bees in Maryland, these amazing little pollinators are a wonderful addition to your landscape. They are small and not aggressive. Some are specialists, which means they must have certain plants to feed on, while others are generalists and will visit a wide variety of plants. For amazing photos of native bees, check out the USGS Bee Monitoring Lab on Flickr.

As with all members of the animal kingdom, pollinators need food, water, and shelter in order to support life. Successful pollinator habitats include diverse flowering plants, food resources, and safe spaces for creating nests. As you begin cleaning up your yard and garden this fall, remember that these solitary bee species and many other beneficial critters rely on dead plant stems, fallen leaves, and other items that are often traditionally removed from the landscape.

dead plant stalks with new growth emerging at the base
Leave perennial plant stalks standing for the winter. Photo: C. Carignan

According to Colorado State University’s factsheet, Attracting Native Bees to Your Landscape, 90% of native bee species found around the world are solitary. Approximately 70% nest underground in the soil and about 30% nest inside hollow stems of plants and in tunnels left by other insects. Solitary female bees are responsible for collecting food, usually pollen, to include with each egg that she lays throughout the spring and summer. These eggs hatch into larva that spend the winter as pupa, which then turn into adults the following spring. Adult females die with the first fall frost. So in order to continue their life cycle, it is very important that their nesting sites are not destroyed in the fall.

To create friendly bee nesting habitats, provide dead wood like tree stumps or firewood for wood boring bees, plants with hollow stems (brambles and other perennials) for bees that need a tunnel-like structure, and areas of full sun, bare (un-mulched) soil, which ground nesting bees use for their nests.  Landscape fabric prevents ground-nesting bee’s ability to tunnel into the soil.

bee nesting box
Bee nesting box. Photo: Pixabay

Bee houses have gotten some attention in recent years and there are mixed messages about adding bee housing structures. Some evidence suggests that if not properly maintained, these well-intended additions could actually create a negative effect on populations. The houses provide a nice nesting area that results in large numbers of larva/pupa congregated close together, which could be easily targeted by predators, diseases, or parasites. For guidance on bee house maintenance check out this great factsheet from the Xerces Society.

Remember our unseen friends this fall and leave some of your plant materials in place to provide nesting and sheltering sites. Sit back, relax, and delay some of those cleanup chores until spring!

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland, edited by Christa Carignan, Coordinator, Home & Garden Information Center, University of Maryland Extension. See more posts by Ashley and Christa.

What’s the deal with butterfly bushes: Good or bad for pollinators?

The summer is slowly leaving us, with many of us starting to harvest the last wave of vegetables and enjoying the beautiful late summer flowers. At this time of the year, I like to review what happened in the peak of summer and consider what I may want to plant next year, based on what did and did not work this season. I enjoy thinking about how to help pollinators with their favorite plants. I invite you to join me today in exploring how our plant choices are important, using the famous butterfly bush as an example.

flowering butterfly bush
Butterfly bushes grow and flower extremely quickly, displaying beautiful and strongly- scented flowers. Photos: Ptelea

Butterfly bushes, a double-edge sword

You may have seen these plants with their blue-purple flower clusters poking out of the bush, and a ton of butterflies and bees visiting the flowers as soon as it gets warm and sunny. The butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii) is a plant species that originates in China. Given its beauty and ease of growth, it was popularized as an ornamental plant first in Europe and later on in other parts of the world.

Its popularity has real reasons: the plant grows fast, flowers very early on in its life cycle, and produces flowers throughout its life span of up to 30 years. The flowers smell good, are very showy and pretty, with large clusters that bloom for several days. Because their flowers need cross-pollination to produce seeds (see how this works in this post), these plants depend on pollinators for reproduction. In their natural habitat, pollination is done mostly by butterflies.

After reading this you may be wondering where I’m trying to go with this post. It seems that these plants are great, so there is not much more to say. If I am considering planting something that will be attractive to pollinators and that is easy to grow, this is a no-brainer, right? Well… maybe not; let me explain.

The problem with plants that are too good to be true is that they usually have a down side. The down side of the butterfly bush in our region is that they are so good that they can “take over” other native plants, which has a number of negative consequences.

Taking over native plants

First, let’s talk a little bit about what I mean by these plants “taking over.” Like all organisms, plants have specific needs to survive in a given place. These needs and abilities evolved over millions of years and are often an evolutionary response to the climatic and soil conditions and the identity of the other organisms living in that community (for example, pathogens, herbivores, pollinators, etc.).

When a foreign species arrives in a new region (like the butterfly bush being introduced in the USA), the fact that they have not evolved in that region can play against them, since they may not tolerate the climate or soils, or may be attacked by parasites or herbivores that they can’t properly defend against. This is why it is often hard to grow species that come from other regions.

Other times, however, not having evolved in the new area can help, especially when most other organisms are not adapted to the species. This means that the new species now does not have to deal with any parasites or herbivores, clearly giving them an advantage over the local species. These advantaged foreign species end up becoming invasive and problematic. Unfortunately, the beautiful butterfly bush is one of these invasive species.

invasive butterfly bush
Invasive plants such as the butterfly bush establish and spread quickly across the landscape. Photo: Forest and Kim Starr, Starr Environmental, Bugwood.org

After being introduced into the USA, the butterfly bush is today present and spreading in many regions, including Maryland. This species can reproduce so well, grows so fast, and importantly, has so few herbivores and diseases, that it is able to not only survive, but also spread into new areas at very high speed. Today, the species is listed by the USDA as a weed or noxious weed. It is displacing native flowers as well as agricultural and forest species.

swallowtail butterfly on flowers of butterfly bush
Butterfly bushes get their name for the very large number of butterflies they attract. Here a Pipevine Swallowtail is feeding on the attractive flowers. Photo: Quadell

Monopolizing pollinators

The butterfly bush not only displaces natives by physically occupying the space that native plants would need to survive. The displacement seems to also come in more indirect ways. Because butterfly bushes offer copious amounts of nectar, they become extremely attractive to pollinators, distracting them from other native co-flowering species, and reducing the native’s reproductive success which eventually also harms the native’s populations. This is something that seems to be happening at least in some parts of the USA, suggesting that by favoring this plant in our gardens, we may be indirectly harming the survival and successful reproduction of many of our dear native plants.

You may remember from my previous posts (What should I plant to help pollinators? and Why do pollinators visit flowers?) that plants support pollinators with resources like nectar and pollen. Although the butterfly bush offers abundant nectar to local pollinators, it has been argued that its nectar is too concentrated and could serve as “junk food.” This is likely inaccurate, since studies of nectar concentration in this species indicate that it falls within the usual concentrations seen in other plants preferred by butterflies (watch out for a future post on the super fun topic of nectar concentrations).
Along with this, many people worry that the pollen may not be as nutritious as that of native plants, and from that respect the butterfly bush may be doing more harm than good to the local pollinators. This is currently very much investigated, and even though it seems that the nutrients in its pollen are not equal to those of native plants, they do contain the essential elements the tested pollinators need.

As we covered in other posts, pollinators do not only consume pollen and nectar. In fact, caterpillars of moths and butterflies feed on other plant parts (e.g., the leaves). In our region, the butterfly bush has little to offer in that respect. Because it is not native to our area, few species of caterpillars can feed and develop on this plant. From this perspective, this plant species is not only physically displacing other native plants that are good hosts of local butterflies, it is also unable to provide the food the local caterpillars need… thus finally harming the butterfly population!

But I want a lot of butterflies… what should I plant?

Despite its name, if we want to benefit butterflies, opting out of the butterfly bush seems like the right thing to do. Instead, plant some of our many beautiful native species. A good place to start for that is my other post: What should I plant to help pollinators?

By Anahí Espíndola, Assistant Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.

Swarms, Swarms, and More Honeybee Swarms!

Swarm of bees on a branch
Photo by Anne Arundel County Master Gardener Beekeeping Project

On May 12, Nancy Allred, Interim Master Gardener Coordinator, Anne Arundel Co. called to say that one of the two Master Gardener Beekeeping Project hives at Hancock’s Resolution Park in Pasadena had swarmed. Swarming is the natural process that a honeybee colony uses to reproduce itself, so this is an exciting event. My husband and I packed up our bee jackets and drove to Hancock’s Resolution to check on the swarm.

Hancock’s Resolution is a historic farm park operated by the Friends of Hancock’s Resolution (FOHR) a 501(c) (3) non-profit organization. Under an agreement with Anne Arundel County Recreation and Parks, FOHR operates the farm and offers programming that interprets the site’s historical and agricultural significance. This remnant of a 410-acre middling plantation located in northern Anne Arundel County is on Bodkin Creek, near the mouth of the Patapsco River, and was once a well-situated market farm with close access to the Chesapeake Bay and the port towns of Baltimore and Annapolis.

Master Gardeners tend a demonstration garden and are on hand to discuss 18th-century farming practices, answer questions about plants, and invite visitors to participate in garden activities (however, activities and access are currently on hold due to COVID-19). Since 2009, Master Gardeners have tended the hives and provided pollinator educational programs that currently feature an observation hive that provides a view of the inner workings of a beehive.

Master Gardener beekeeper at Hancock's Resolution Park
Master Gardener beekeeper at Hancock’s Resolution Park – Photo courtesy historichancocksresolution.org

We were pleasantly surprised to see that the swarming bees had settled on the lower limb of a tree right next to the hives. Often swarms land just beyond the reach of your tallest ladder, so we were very lucky.

When swarming, the colony splits into two distinct colonies. The queen and about half of the workers (females) leave the hive in search of an appropriate site for their new home, often a large cavity in a tree. Typically the swarm temporarily settles on a tree or structure near the hive with the workers surrounding the queen in a cohesive “teardrop” of bees. Scouts fly off to find a suitable site for the colony, which might take a day or two or more. Once they identify a suitable site, the swarm takes to the air and follows the scouts to the new site. Meanwhile back in the original colony, the workers are busy raising several queens, one of which will become the new queen of the hive.

Tending the swarm
Photo by Anne Arundel County Master Gardener Beekeeping Project

In many cases, beekeepers are thrilled to see a swarm because if they can catch the swarm, they can add another colony to their apiary or replace a colony that died during the winter (in the last few years in Maryland, beekeepers have reported losing approximately half of all colonies each year — but that’s a topic for another article).

As Brian and I looked at the swarm that had settled next to the beehives at Hancock’s Resolution, we considered catching the swarm and setting up a new colony.  However, all of the Master Gardener hives at Hancock’s Resolution and Quiet Waters Park made it through the winter just fine, and our own colonies had also survived, so we had no place to install the new swarm. Unfortunately, you can’t just put the bees back into the hive that they came from since that hive is already down the path of raising a new queen.

Since we had nowhere to put the swarm, I called a fellow beekeeper, Charles DeBarber, to come collect the swarm. Charles has worked with John Conners and myself with the beekeepers at the Correctional Institution for Women in Jessup, including to help remove a swarm that had moved into an abandoned building there. Charles wears many hats, including maintaining about 20 hives at Filbert Street Community Garden in nearby Curtis Bay, and he sets up hives for other community gardens in the area. He was thrilled to have another colony to donate to a community garden.

Charles arrived at Hancock’s Resolution 20 minutes after I called him and a few minutes later had the bees in a small box called a nuc complete with frames of honey and honeycomb to make them feel at home. The swarm was very gentle and only focused on protecting the queen who was somewhere in the middle of the ball of bees. Charles was able to collect the swarm without protective gear (don’t try this at home!) and no one got stung during this process. When Charles left, he was headed to a community garden to move the “ladies” into their new home.

Tending the swarm
Photo by Anne Arundel County Master Gardener Beekeeping Project

But that wasn’t the end of this story. The next day Nancy called again to say that ANOTHER swarm had appeared in the same location. Was it from the other hive, the same hive, or another hive in the neighborhood? There’s no way to know, but we suspect that it was from the other hive. Once again, we made the trip out to Hancock’s Resolution, called Charles, and got the second swarm (which was even larger than the first) dropped into another box to be delivered to its new home.

But, still, there’s more to the story.On May 22, ten days after Nancy called about the first swarm, she called again reporting a THIRD swarm. Once again, Charles showed up and retrieved the swarm and took it to a local community garden that was grateful to have such hardworking pollinators near their garden plots.

In the meantime, the Master Gardener Beekeeping Project honeybees at Hancock’s Resolution and Quiet Waters Park are thriving, collecting lots of nectar and pollen, raising young, and making sure that the hives have enough honey and pollen to survive the next Maryland winter.

It is a wonderful thing to support and help pollinators thrive. The transfer of pollen from the male organ to the female organ of a flowering plant – is essential to life on earth, for without pollination most people and non-human animals would not have enough food. Over 90% of all known flowering plants, and almost all fruits, vegetables and grains, require pollination to produce crops. Happily, there is a pollinator volunteer workforce that includes bees that does this job for us.

If you find a swarm on your property, you can find a beekeeper via Maryland Beekeepers Association to come and save it.

Pam McFarland, Anne Arundel County Master Gardener, University of Maryland Extension. Edited by Dan Adler.

What should I plant to help pollinators?

bee on penstemon flowers
Bumblebees often can be seen feeding at the flowers of foxglove beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis), which blooms from late May through June. Photo: C. Carignan

We all want to protect pollinators and it seems that the best way to do that is to have a lot of flowers so they can feed on them. But if you’ve ever checked a seed catalog or visited a plant nursery, you may be overwhelmed by all the options. How do you choose what to plant? In today’s post we will chat a bit about the why’s of these choices and we’ll share some resources that may be useful next time you’re trying to make those decisions.

Each pollinator species is unique

As all species in the world, each pollinator species has unique reproductive, nutritional, and habitat requirements to survive. For example, a bee that nests in the early spring needs food and habitat that will be different from those of another bee that nests in the summer, or of a butterfly that emerges from its metamorphosis in late spring. For an early-spring bee it will be key that flowers are available early in the season. Those will be of no help to a summer bee. Likewise, a late spring butterfly will be able to enjoy the nectar from flowers that were not available to the early-spring bee.

Along with the timing of emergence, each pollinator is unique in its anatomy and sensorial abilities. For example, long-tongued bees can reach the nectar of flowers that may be too deep for short-tongued bees. Similarly, because of their extremely long mouth parts, hummingbirds and butterflies usually can access very tubular flowers that are just out of reach for other pollinators.

It’s not only the shape of the mouth parts of the pollinators that will play a role in what flowers they can feed on. Their general body shape and physical abilities will also define this. For instance, butterflies can’t regulate their flight as well as hoverflies or bees do, and because of this, when they visit flowers they need to have large surfaces on which to land, while bees and hoverflies may not really need them.

swallowtail butterfly on butterfly weed
Swallowtail butterfly on butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa). Photo: UME Home and Garden Information Center

Finally, different pollinators have different sensorial abilities, with some being able to see some parts of the light spectrum that others may not. On this, butterflies and hummingbirds can see many different colors including UV light, bats that pollinate are blind, and bees have a broad spectrum of light vision but can’t differentiate many of the colors we can.

So now you may be asking yourself why I am talking about all of this. How does this relate to the topic of this post: how to help pollinators with flowers? Bear with me, I’m getting there!

How should I choose what to plant to help pollinators?

As you may be guessing by now, because each pollinator has slightly different life requirements, if you want to help as many pollinators as possible, your best shot is trying to diversify your garden or flower bed. I like to think of this as if I were holding a dinner party at my house and I want to have as many of my friends enjoy the food.

If I know that some of my friends are vegan, lactose intolerant, or allergic to nuts, I will make sure that they find something to eat at my table. If I don’t have anything for them, they will be hungry and sad, and they will also probably decline any future dinner invitations from me (how sad is that!?). So, I like to think about these pollinator plantings as a party I am hosting for a whole season, and where I will make sure that all my little friends always have something to eat so they come back next time I invite them over!

pollinator garden
A diverse flower garden includes flowers of many different colors and shapes and will have different plants in flower throughout the season. Photo: Carol Norquist

The key to attract the most pollinators is diversifying our gardens! Ideally, the choice of plants should include different flower colors, shapes, and sizes available throughout the season. This means that there will be always several different types of flowers blooming at the same time, even though no one plant may be flowering throughout the season. Along with this, if one is trying to attract specific pollinators that have very specific food requirements (for example, oil-bees, monarchs), one would also have to make sure that the pollinators’ required food is also present (take a look at this recent post to learn more: Why do pollinators visit flowers?)

Another aspect to consider when deciding what to plant is the fact that native pollinators usually get appropriate nutrition at the right time of their life cycle if they feed on plant species that are also native to the area. For this reason, if one wants to help pollinators, native plant species are usually recommended, and in particular, avoiding invasive exotic species is key. In fact, invasive species, in addition to not providing ideal food for native pollinators may also displace native plant species, reducing even more the diversity of your flower bed and the pollinators who will visit it. Finally, this also means that a “good” flower mix for pollinators from Europe is probably not going to be ideal for Maryland pollinators.

perennial flower garden
This perennial flower garden includes a variety of species that bloom at different times throughout the growing season. Photo: C. Carignan


But then, what should I do?

There are so many things to think about! This is truly a brain twister, right? Luckily for you (and me) many biologists, ecologists, and conservation specialists have been thinking about this for a while. Today, floral mixes have been created that are appropriate to different regions of the United States. In the state of Maryland, the Department of Natural Resources has created a neat list of species you can plant depending on the conditions on your land. The Xerces Society has also put together a list for plants appropriate for different states. Alternatively, if you would like to just favor specific pollinators, you can target their preferred plants. For finding seeds and starts for these plants, take a look at this great resource the Maryland Native Plant Society has put together!

By Anahí Espíndola, Assistant Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.

Why Do Pollinators Visit Flowers? Hint: It’s Not Just for Nectar and Pollen

Other than because I think they are pretty, I love looking at plants and their flowers. In fact, one of my pastimes has become figuring where and what is the reward that pollinators get out of their visits to their favorite flowers. You may be now thinking that my pastime is a bit nonsensical, since it is pretty clear that pollinators get pollen and nectar from flowers, so why bother checking? Well, actually, that is only partially true; did you know there’s a myriad of rewards that pollinators can get from their flower visits?

In today’s post I want to tell you a bit about some of those other rewards; the ones that fascinate me so much. Let’s talk about special floral pollination rewards and where you can see them in real life!

We like essential oils, some pollinators like floral oils!

The first time I heard about floral oils my mind was blown in such a way that I became obsessed with them, to the point that now a large part of my research program focuses on them. Floral oils are a reward that many types of plants offer to their favorite pollinators: oil-bees.

But don’t let me get ahead of myself! Floral oils are a special type of oil – different from essential oils – that are produced and presented to pollinators on different parts of the flowers of some plants. Independently of what exactly they look like, all these plants are visited and pollinated in a very specialized way by oil-bees. Unlike honeybees, these oil-bees are solitary and make their nests in the ground. These oils help these bees line their nests to waterproof (!!) and strengthen them. Along with that, they also mix the oils with pollen and feed that ‘pollen ball’ to their larvae.

Macropis oil bee
The whorled yellow loosestrife (left; photo: Eli Sagor) is one of Maryland’s native plants that offers floral oils to their Macropis oil-bees (right; photo: Don Harvey). Note the shiny load of oils and pollen on the hind legs of this Macropis!

Oil flowers are present all around the globe. In our region, they are represented by several species of the yellow loosetrife plant genus Lysimachia. With their floral oil rewards, these loosestrifes sustain the rare oil-bees of the genus Macropis. At the level of the country, most oil-flowers (and their specialized pollinators) are restricted to the Southern USA, where they are visited by the large bee genus Centris. Some of these plants are the wild crapemyrtle, the prairie bur, and the purple pleatleaf.

Hungry? Please, help yourself!

Along with nectar, pollen, and floral oils, food for pollinators can come in many different shapes and forms. In fact, some flowers even offer parts of their flowers to their pollinators. In cases like this, flowers develop special structures – usually around their petals – with the only function of becoming food for pollinators. Flowers providing this type of reward are usually pollinated by beetles, who can use their strong mandibles to chew on and eat the special structures.

calycanthus
Sweet shrubs display nutritious structures to their pollinators, small sap-feeding beetles of the family Nitidulidae. Photo: Wikipedia commons.

One of the coolest examples of the use of this type of reward is our very own sweet shrub, Calycanthus floridus. This spring flowering plant (flowering right now in Maryland!) attracts small beetles that enter the flower and stay there for quite some time. To maintain and support them while they are helping the plant reproduce, the sweet shrub flowers englobes them during parts of their flowering (this is why sometimes these flowers seem to be opening and closing throughout the day) and present small extremely nutritious structures at the base of their petals. It is on these structures that the beetles can feed on to stay strong and healthy while they are on the flowers. If you have one of these flowers in your yard, or happen to see them in one of your walks, take a second to stop and check them; you may get to meet their little beetle friends! 

Need a hand taking care of the kids? Here I am!

Some other flowers have established even more intricate relationships with their pollinators, and what they provide is not just food, but also a house! Because in these plants the offered reward is a place for the larvae of these pollinators, these interactions are called ‘nursery pollination’. Here, the pollinator visits the plants, collects pollen, and sometimes even actively places pollen on the flower tip. By doing so, the pollinator makes sure that the plant seeds develop. This is important, because their larvae will need some of them to feed on throughout their development.

yucca moth
Joshua trees (left; photo: Shawn Kinkade) are some of the most iconic plants of the US Southwest. These plants offer a brood site to their super-specialized small moth pollinators (right; photo: Judy Gallagher).

Along with this being the reward we see in a plant we love to eat (figs!), one of the most spectacular examples of the use of this reward is found in an iconic plant of the deserts of the US Southwest, the Joshua tree. Indeed, Joshua trees produce flowers that are visited by a group of moths, the Yucca moths. These moths visit the flowers, collect their pollen, and then literally push it into the flower tip to actively pollinate it. Because the moths lay eggs on the flowers, this assures that the flower develops seeds so the larvae have something to feed on. What is fascinating, though, is that these larvae never eat all the seeds, so this really is a win-win relationship between the plant and the moth.

To see how this is done, take a look at this video!

yucca moth video
Larvae of the Yucca moths feed on a Joshua tree’s seeds. To make sure that there is something for their larvae to eat, these moths actively pollinate the plants, exchanging a brood site for pollination, and in the process display some of the most fascinating behaviors one can see in pollinators. Check out the video to see it for yourself! Video: University of Nebraska-Lincoln. 

By Anahí Espíndola, Assistant Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.

Carpenter bees are native pollinators

carpenter bee on redbud flowers
Carpenter bee (Xylocopa virginica) on an Eastern redbud tree. Photo: Allen Szalanski, Bugwood.org

A sure sign of spring is the emergence of carpenter bees. Have you seen the perfectly circular small holes that these bees chew into wood? I mean honestly, I have trouble drawing a perfect circle freehand, much less chewing one!  

Adult carpenter bees spend the winter hanging out in their nesting site, just waiting for the first signs of spring when they will emerge, find pollen for food, and mate. Nesting sites/holes are most often seen under the eaves of buildings, particularly on unpainted wood. Every spring, we have carpenter bees infesting the eaves of our barn.    

carpenter bee holes in wood
Holes made by carpenter bees. Photo: Ashley Bodkins

People often confuse carpenter bees for bumble bees, but there are some distinct differences between these two types of bees, including nesting locations. Bumble bees live in a social hive whereas carpenter bees are solitary, and a carpenter bee has an abdomen that is shiny black, not hairy.

Carpenter bees are native pollinators, are not aggressive, and are only noticeable in late spring-early summer. They are mostly found around structures made of wood, or around facia trim, beams, etc. 

Male carpenter bees often cause alarm when they dive-bomb and fly erratically around humans that approach nesting sites, but in actuality, these bees are bluffing as they lack a stinger and are harmless. They can be identified easily by the white spot on the front of their heads.

male carpenter bee
The male carpenter bee has a distinct whitish pattern between the eyes. Photo: David Stephens, Bugwood.org

Only female bees have a stinger, which is a modified egg-laying device (ovipositor). Female carpenter bees are docile and are reported to sting only if handled, but a female carpenter bee can sting more than once.

Carpenter bees do not consume wood, but they do create their nesting sites in wood. They feed on pollen and nectar and are important plant pollinators. Their large size allows them to pollinate some flowers that are unsuitable to smaller bees.

carpenter bee collecting pollen
Carpenter bees are important native pollinators. Note the shiny black abdomen, a characteristic that differentiates them from bumble bees. Photo: Ansel Oommen, Bugwood.org

Female carpenter bees use their strong jaws (mandibles) to chew a perfect circle entrance hole and make a small chamber that will become her home. The entrance is a little less than a half-inch wide, close to the same diameter as her body. These channels that she chews are perpendicular to the grain of the wood. Then they will turn about 90 degrees and excavate along the wood grain for 4 to 6 inches to create a gallery (tunnel). It takes approximately 6 days to bore one inch into the wood.  

Female carpenter bees build several cells within each tunnel and each cell contains one egg and enough food for the larva that will hatch. The food, called bee bread, is a mixture of pollen and plant nectar. She places the food into the tunnel, lays a single egg on it, and builds a partition in the tunnel with cemented wood particles.   Each tunnel contains 6 to 10 cells. 

Control of carpenter bees may be desired if there is significant damage to wooden structures. But be aware, carpenter bees do not cause major damage like termites, and again, they are important native pollinators.

If control is desired, you can apply a registered insecticide into the entrance holes. Then the holes should be sealed thoroughly with wood putty or caulking compound. If possible, filling the entire tunnel system with a sealant can also be effective. All exposed wood surfaces should be painted or varnished and sealed. When managing carpenter bees, it may be helpful to treat and seal entrance holes during the early morning or late evening when bees are less active. Additional management options are offered by West Virginia University Extension.

References and Resources

https://extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/pests/carpenter-bee

https://extension2.missouri.edu/g7424

https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-2074

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland, and Christa K. Carignan, Coordinator, Home and Garden Information Center, University of Maryland Extension. See more posts by Ashley and Christa.

Pawpaws: The tropical fruit from our forests

Spring is almost here and now we can start thinking about trees to plant if we did not get to that in the fall. Thinking about trees for my garden, I came back to one I have been considering for a while now — one that gives delicious fruit, is native, makes me think of tropical lands, and is not liked by deer! Today’s post is going to be about a little-known tree that’s native to our region, and whose fruits were apparently one of George Washington’s favorites: pawpaws!

What are pawpaws?

Pawpaws are trees that belong to the same plant family as chirimoyas and custard apples (Annonaceae, the soursoup family; Figure 1). From a botanical perspective, pawpaws are really special because they are the only member of their family adapted to growing outside of the tropics and able to survive our temperate climate.

pawpaw and related fruits
Figure 1 – Pawpaws (left), chirimoyas (top right) and custard apples (bottom right) are all in the same plant family, but pawpaws are the only group adapted to growing in temperate climates.

All pawpaws grow in southeastern North America, but the most common and widespread species is the common pawpaw, Asimina triloba, which is very abundant in our region. The common pawpaw is adapted to growing in well-drained and fertile habitats, such as those found in our forests. I promise you that if you ever walked in a forest in the area, you have seen hundreds of pawpaws growing in groves (Figure 2).

Pawpaw grove
Figure 2 – Pawpaws grow in well-drained fertile soils, and are common in our forests where they often grow in groves. Photo: Katja Schulz.

Why are pawpaws such a “thing”?

Besides being great native trees that grow well in our region, pawpaws have the most delicious fruits. They are considered the largest edible fruits indigenous to the continental United States. The fruits look a bit like a green mango from the outside, but are white/yellow and fleshy in the inside (Figure 3).

pawpaw fruit
Figure 3 – Pawpaw fruits are green on the outside and white and fleshy on the inside. Note the very large seeds. Photo: Elizabeth.

Their flavor is such a delicious one that I always relate it to tropical fruits. People more technical than I am in terms of flavor description say that it is a custard flavor, close to that of bananas, pineapples, and mangos. In any case, believe me when I tell you that these fruits are absolutely delightful and can be eaten fresh, in yogurts, in cakes, as jams, or frozen in ice cream!

Why didn’t I know about this before?

That was my very question the first time I tried them! It turns out that producing pawpaws for selling is not super simple. In fact, the fruits are fragile and thus can’t be transported long distances, which reduces their marketability. This means that pawpaws are usually produced and consumed locally. If you do not happen to know somebody with some trees on their land, you probably never got to try them.

Also, the pawpaw fruit season is relatively short (end of the summer), which means that one has to be in the right place at the right time to eat them. In season, pawpaws can be purchased at local farmers’ markets or on farms. You can also try to find them in the forests of the area, where you will be able to smell the sweet aroma of the fruits while you hike or bike. However, be sure to check property rules; harvesting plant materials from park lands is typically prohibited.

Why are you talking about this now? It’s not pawpaw season yet!

That is correct. However, it is pawpaw planting season now, and soon will be pawpaw pollination season, both needed to actually get the delicious fruits in the summer. So, how to plant and pollinate them?

Pawpaws can be grown from seed, but the simplest way to get one for your land is from a nursery. Several nurseries in the area sell pawpaw trees, and your best choices are those which grow trees that are adapted to your local conditions.

Pawpaws are not hard to grow and can be actually cultivated in your own back or front yard! Further, some counties and cities provide financial support to plant these native trees (see for example, Chesapeake Bay Trust and the Maryland Department of Natural Resources).

Pawpaw trees start producing fruit a couple years after planting. However, fruit production is a bit different from that of other fruits you may be growing. In fact, fruits will form only if there is cross-pollination (see this other post), since a pawpaw is not able to properly self-pollinate. This means that pawpaws need pollinators to produce fruit.

pawpaw flower
Figure 4 – Pawpaw flowers have evolved to attract and trick flies and beetles by looking dark and smelling like ripe fruits, the insects’ preferred food and egg-laying site. With this trick, the plant cross-pollinates their flowers without offering any reward to the pollinators. Photo: Judy Gallagher

Pawpaws are pollinated by flies and sometimes beetles, which the flowers attract with their maroon flowers and their ‘yeasty’ aromas (Figure 4). These scents are known to ‘trick’ the pollinators into visiting the flowers, mimicking the odor of ripe fruits that these insects prefer to feed on or lay their eggs. Flowers then attract these pollen dispersers, who, while visiting the flowers, will cross-pollinate them without their will.

You can imagine by now that having more than one pawpaw on your land or in the surroundings of your house will increase fruit production. It will then be more likely that the fooled pollinators will have visited another plant and thus carry pollen when they visit your tree.

Alternatively, if you would like to be absolutely sure to get a good pawpaw crop, you can cross-pollinate them by hand. To do that, get a small brush, pick pollen from the anthers of one flower (check the drawing here to find them), and transfer it to the stigma of another. That way you will get to live your best pollinator life! 😊

By Anahí Espíndola, Assistant Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.