Use De-Icing Salts With a Grain of Salt

Winter Wonderlands are pretty to watch and enjoy with a lot of waterproof and warm clothes, but they also have their little challenges. For example, lots of snow can lead to a lot of compacted snow, that turns into ice, making Winter Wonderlands turn into Winter Slipperylands with all the accidents and issues that ensue. A common practice to reduce ice and its dangers is the use of de-icing salts. In this post, I want to talk about de-icing salts and how their excessive use can lead to unwanted consequences in our natural spaces and the organisms that inhabit them.

What are de-icing salts?

De-icing salts are most commonly sodium chloride salts, a non-food-grade version of the salts we use in our kitchens. Because high concentrations of sodium chloride in the soil lead to many environmental issues, alternatives exist, including potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, and calcium magnesium acetate (CMA). Note, however, that although these alternatives are considered more environmentally friendly, they are just less environmentally harmful than sodium chloride.

All these salts generally reduce the freezing temperature of water, leading to water (ice) melting at temperatures at which it would have been frozen in the absence of the salt. Although this is a very simple and effective way of reducing or preventing ice formation, the intense use of salts leads to accumulation in the soil and water table, which is worrisome in many ways.

Photo of a large bag of de-icing salt on a walkway ready to be applied.
De-icing salts can degrade ecosystems when misapplied or applied unnecessarily. Photo: J. Jönsson (CC).

What happens if salts accumulate in the soil and water?

As we apply salts, they eventually dissolve in the water we are trying to de-ice, in moisture in the soil, and/or with precipitation. This salt then accumulates in the soil and in the water bodies into which the area drains. Both these processes can have strong effects on the health of the environment and the survival of many species.

Soils with high salt content are generally more toxic for plants (herbaceous and woody) that are not otherwise adapted to salty environments, leading to a negative effect on plant health and survival in regions where salts are applied intensely and regularly. For example, high salt content in the soil reduces the ability of plants to capture water and other nutrients and to tolerate low temperatures and drought. Further, when exposed to these high concentrations, plant tissues can also become enriched in salts, which can lead to cell dehydration and an inability to perform photosynthesis.

Reductions in plant diversity and health can also lead to other, more indirect effects. They can affect the ability of insects or other animals to find appropriate host plants to develop on and nest in and can lead to an increase in pest outbreaks, which are associated with reductions in the general diversity of the plant communities.

Besides accumulating in the soil, salts can also dissolve in the water and end up in the water bodies close to where the salts were applied. When salt use is very intense, it can lead to a significant accumulation of salts in lakes, streams, and rivers, which has demonstrated negative impacts on their organisms. Fishes, amphibians, insects, aquatic plants, and microorganisms display specific ranges of salt tolerance, and given that freshwater is not normally enriched in salts, the rise in its concentration leads to an inability for these organisms to survive under those conditions. Further, because some of the de-icing salts have phosphates, their runoff into the Chesapeake Bay can increase phosphate pollution and its negative effects on the survival of Bay ecosystems. Finally, it has been shown that high salt concentrations in water promote the survival of salt-tolerant organisms, one of which is mosquitoes. This can lead to larger mosquito populations in areas where there is intense and regular use of de-icing salts.

Does this mean that I can’t use de-icing salts anymore?

No, this means that because salts are not neutral to our environment, we should use them thoughtfully and cautiously. For example, shoveling or plowing snow before it becomes packed and icy is a great way to maintain ice- and salt-free spaces. Also, only applying salts when you’re sure that a storm will arrive is another way to reduce salt applications and its negative effects on the environment. Finally, if salts are needed, a good strategy is to apply them lightly and only to high-traffic areas. Don’t treat areas where there is no traffic. It has been shown that de-icing salt grains spaced 3 inches apart can readily and efficiently remove ice. Applying salts more heavily does not improve the de-icing action but increases salt concentration in the soil and water bodies.

Image: Lake Superior Streams Regional Stormwater Protection Team.

Finally, if you do need to use salts on a regular basis, consider planting native salt-tolerant plants. For ideas, refer to this Salt-Tolerant Native Plants page from Virginia Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners in Northern VA. These plants will grow in Maryland, increase the biodiversity of your green space, and, in some cases, capture some of the salts in the soil, further reducing salt runoff.

To learn more:

By Anahí Espíndola, Associate Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.

Anahí also writes an Extension Blog in Spanish! Check it out here, 
extensionesp.umd.edu, and please share and spread the word to your Spanish-speaking friends and colleagues in Maryland. ¡Bienvenidos a Extensión en Español!

10 Ways to Repurpose Your Christmas Tree

Photo of a live Christmas tree in a natural setting, adorned with beads and ornaments.
Christmas trees can shelter and feed wildlife long after the holidays.  

Ping. Ping. Ping. As the needles fall from your Christmas tree are you wondering if you can repurpose it somehow?  Well, here are a few environmentally smart, garden-friendly ideas. 

  1. Make it a living birdfeeder.  Leave your tree in its stand or put it into a large pot or bucket weighted with rocks.  Put it on your deck or patio where you can see it or lean it against a fence. 
  2. Next, have fun decorating it with food for birds and other animals.  Try apple or orange slices or halves, suet cakes, dried fruit, mini bagels, bunches of dried seed heads or berries or whole sunflower heads.
  3. Spread a peanut butter and cornmeal mixture onto pinecones, then roll them in birdseed and hang.  String popcorn for a festive garland. 
  4. Protect wildlife by using natural materials like raffia, jute or cotton string for hangers.
  5. Create shelter.  Lay down your tree in the corner of your property or at the edge of your woods or meadow to give birds and other small animals cover from predators and nasty weather.  This is a gift that keeps giving.  As it decays in the coming years, your former Christmas tree’s wood will feed many living creatures and the soil. 
  6. Make mulch. Break out your shredder or join with neighbors in renting a shredder to chip branches for mulch. 
  7. Create compost.  Shredded wood can also be added to your compost pile.  And no, the conifer needles will not acidify a compost pile. 
  8. Winterize your perennials.  Cut branches from your tree and lay them over your perennials to protect them from snow and reduce frost heaving.  Remove the branches in early spring. 
  9. Feed your fire pit.  Cut boughs can be used to feed your fire pit.  Evergreens tend to have an abundance of sap, so only use their branches as fire starters and fuel in outdoor fire pits, not indoor fireplaces or stoves.
  10. Beautify containers. Fill your outside containers with cut branches. Add colorful winterberries, dried seed heads, and a bow for an attractive winter look. 
  11. Build garden edging.  Dried and sliced 2-inch trunk rounds can be set on end in a shallow trench to make a natural border for garden beds. 
  12. Get crafty.  Let the wood dry for several months, then slice the trunk and branches into rounds for crafting.  A quick online search on “repurposing Christmas trees” yields many craft options from trivets and coasters to napkin rings and ornaments.  
  13. Donate your tree.  Towns and counties often collect Christmas trees to chip and use as mulch.  Check with your town or county offices to learn more. 

Your Christmas tree can live on in a dozen different ways after the holidays.  I hope this year you’ll be creative in giving those boughs new life. 

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Q&A: Are These Red Leaves Too Stressed?

Photo of several plants in a terrarium. The focus of the photo is a plant with oval leaves that are red with white veins. This plant is Dischidia ovata, commonly called watermelon dischidia or hoya.
Photo credit:  Miri Talabac
Photo caption:  Dischidia ovata in a terrarium under intense light.

Q:  I have a Hoya whose leaves have turned quite red. While pretty, I want to make sure I’m not stressing the plant too much. How can I tell?

A:  If growth is progressing normally and there aren’t any other concerning symptoms (like leaf drop beyond the typical shedding of old leaves, or stunted growth), then I would say you’re at a tolerable level of stress for the plant. Reddening foliage is sometimes referred to as “sun stress” by houseplant growers, and it’s the plant’s natural response to intense light by generating sunscreen pigments to protect the leaf tissues.

Some species or cultivars of Hoya and their Dischidia cousins can turn ruby-red or rose-blushed if grown in bright light. I’ve grown cuttings propagated from a single Watermelon Dischidia, Dischidia ovata, in different light levels, and some will stay green in lower light and others turn varying degrees of red in higher light. In one case, under a bright spotlight over a terrarium, the plant turned completely ruby on every surface exposed to light. Even across a single leaf, areas in shadow can remain green while the rest blush red, as they did when I peeked beneath one leaf that was partially covered by another.

I have a ‘Sunrise’ cultivar of Hoya in a pot hanging underneath the edge of LED grow lights. The half of the plant growing close to the lights is red, and the half receiving much less light on that outer half is green. If anything, I’d say that the redder side grows more vigorously.

Other houseplants can also redden if grown at the higher end of their light level preferences, such as certain begonias and bromeliads. In other cases, over-lit foliage bleaches to a paler or yellower color, so not every indoor plant can adapt to stronger light.

Sometimes you just might need to experiment to see how a plant reacts, and keep in mind that other factors (nutrient availability, soil moisture level, ambient temperature and humidity) which might be causing plant stress can complicate your assessment of how a plant is faring based on light level.

By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.

Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask ExtensionOur horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.

How to Pay for a Pollinator or Native Plant Garden?

We hear a lot about the importance of establishing native and pollinator gardens. Indeed, these spaces provide many ecological services, from providing food resources and shelter for biodiversity to improving the quality of our soils and reducing water runoff. However, establishing these spaces requires at least some funds, which may or may not be available to many. In this post, I want to share some resources that can provide either funding or materials to establish such spaces in our properties.

Grants and rebates for native gardens and more

In our region, several grants exist that can provide funding to partially or completely cover expenses associated with the establishment of pollinator and native gardens. Some of these are state- or region-wide, while others are county or city-based. Below I share some of these, but because many of these grants are local, if you don’t happen to be in the regions where these are active, do a quick search on your favorite web search engine and I am pretty sure you’ll find one that applies to you relatively easily.

State-wide grant:

Logo for the Chesapeake Bay Trust organization. The logo shows a heron, sun, water, and plants. The tag line is Empowering people Restoring nature.

The Chesapeake Bay Trust has a state-wide program of mini grants which can be used to fund pollinator and rain gardens, among others. These grants provide up to $5,000 of funding for projects of different sizes, and the submission deadline is on a rolling basis. Applicants can be many different types of organizations, but it’s best is to check their current guidelines to know all the specifics about each year’s rules (these can be found directly on the grant website).

County-based programs:

Log for Prince George's County. It says Prince George's County Maryland Proud. Get to Know Us.

The Rain Check Rebate Program is offered by Prince George’s County and includes monetary support to establish rain gardens (which can also act as pollinator gardens) and other features (e.g., rain barrels, permeable driveways) that will increase water retention and reduce water runoff. Through this program, private property owners receive up to $6,000, and commercial properties, associations, and non-profits receive up to $20,000. The application process is relatively straightforward and simple, and the reimbursements are processed relatively quickly.

The non-profit Unity Gardens provides grants to fund the planting of native gardens (including rain and pollinator gardens) in Anne Arundel County. These grants are open to the public and range from $1,000 to $3,000 (depending on the type of project). Applications open in the fall and spring, but the documentation and guidelines for applications are accessible all year round. Check the website to learn more.

City-based grants:

The city of Ocean City, MD offers mini-grants for local property owners. These grants aim to support the establishment of pollinator gardens and other native plant gardens within the boundaries of the city. The grants provide up to $5,000 of funding, and applications for some of these projects are open year-round, while others have specific deadlines. Check the grants website to learn the specifics about each of these programs.

Free plants to establish gardens

Not every organization or institution has funds to establish grants such as those presented above. However, many cities and other non-profits give away plants at different times of the year. Generally, these giveaways happen in the spring and the fall, when plantings are the most likely to succeed. Below, I’ve included some examples for you. However, note that many local events happen everywhere, so if you’re interested in these giveaways, I strongly recommend that you search or keep an eye out for announcements in your area by the end of the winter or the summer. 

Free native garden kits and plants:

Logo for Nature Forward. The tag line is Connecting people and nature in the Capital Region.

The organization Nature Forward provides free native garden kits which include garden designs and the actual plants that go with them! Because this is directly associated with the Anacostia watershed, the geographical range of this program is restricted (check the map on their website). The sign-up is currently full, but you can still add yourself to the waitlist.

Sometimes, native plant nurseries decide to organize such giveaways. This is the case of Bona Terra in Friendship, MD, which created a “plant grant,” basically a registration-based plant giveaway. The giveaway can be for individuals or groups, and registration is required to receive either individual plants or trays. Check out their website to learn more and access the forms.

City-based plant giveaways:
Several cities provide free plants to their residents. An example is the City of College Park, which has been giving away native plants that support pollinators throughout the year at markets and public events. Check with your city or local government to see if such programs are available to you… and if they are not, you can always ask for them to be established!!

By Anahí Espíndola, Associate Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.

Anahí also writes an Extension Blog in Spanish! Check it out here, 
extensionesp.umd.edu, and please share and spread the word to your Spanish-speaking friends and colleagues in Maryland. ¡Bienvenidos a Extensión en Español!

Gardeners Wrap Up the Gardening Season

Okay, gardeners. We can see the finish line. It’s been a busy gardening season, but we are almost ready to wrap things up for the year. Almost.

October and November are the wrap it up, clean it up months. Now’s the time to give the last of your withering vegetable plants the heave-ho.  

I know there is still one tomato out there, but it’s a brick. Let it go. Toss healthy plants on the compost pile and bag and trash the rest.  

Are you one of those garden daredevils who cheat the season with late plantings of cool weather crops? Good for you. Just be ready with frost protection such as floating row covers or a deep layer of straw.

vegetable plant with a row cover
Floating row covers extend the growing season. Photo: UME/HGIC

Cut back any perennials that had serious disease or insect problems, but leave the rest standing to provide food and shelter for birds and overwintering pollinators and beneficial insects.  

Mums have sensitive crowns – the part where the roots and stems meet– so treat them gently. After their fall show, leave them standing to increase their chances of coming back. Not all hardy mums are hardy. 

Use leaves as mulch around trees and shrubs and in your vegetable and flower beds. Use a fine layer on your lawn and toss the rest in your compost pile. 

Collect fallen branches to start a brush pile for wildlife. Put larger pieces on the bottom and smaller ones on the top to create cover and resting places for creatures great and small. 

Yes, you can still sneak in some bulbs. Remember to plant them three times as deep as they are wide. In other words, a 1-inch daffodil bulb goes into a 3-inch hole.  

You can plant trees and shrubs until the ground is frozen, too. Earlier is better to give roots a chance to get established. Just make sure you water them deeply every week. 

red leaves on a tree
There’s still time to plant trees such as this native black gum (Nyssa sylvatica) with brilliant fall color. Photo: T. David Sydnor, Bugwood

Here’s a fact sheet that tells you how to plant trees and shrubs and lists plants that are best planted in the spring. 

Also deep water any tree or shrub you planted earlier this year to send them into the winter well-hydrated. Water until we get a ground-penetrating frost, usually around Thanksgiving.   

Water any newly planted trees and shrubs to help them overwinter. Photo: M. Talabac, UME

Want a live Christmas tree? Save yourself some colorful language by digging the planting hole now before the ground freezes. Drop in a few unopened bags of mulch to avoid losing Bowser or any holiday guests in there. 

We’re almost to the cuddle up with cocoa season. Taking care of these few last-minute garden tasks will let us smile and sigh under the afghan, reveling in a job well done.  

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Leave the Leaves, All While Not Making Your Neighbors Mad

With the fall season we are starting to see a lot of articles talking about the massive ecological and soil quality benefits of leaving leaves, stems, and sticks in our green spaces. As a biologist, I understand why doing so is indeed the right thing to do, but I often face pushback on this topic from people I mention this to through my Extension work or just in my neighborhood. There are of course many barriers to adopting such practices that I have heard people mention, but one that comes up often is the one that involves social or peer pressure. In other words, how to adopt this without making your neighbors mad? In today’s blog, I want to give some pointers to avoid conflict with (and maybe even convince) neighbors who may be less convinced than you on these practices.

Some fall practices that we know are good for biodiversity and your soil

I do not want to talk yet again in depth about these practices (you can read more about it in these other articles if you want to know more):

But I want to just quickly state some of them, so you know what I am referring to throughout this article. I feel that there are three major types of practices that can be adopted for protecting pollinators and other insects during the winter: leaving the fallen leaves on the ground, not pruning certain pithy stems to the ground until the Spring, and making branches and stick piles in sections of your green spaces.

For all these practices, common sense should be used when deciding whether to adopt them or not (e.g., if you are in a fire-prone area, perhaps making huge wood piles is not a good idea), remembering that these are indeed all practices that have been shown to improve biodiversity in our green spaces.

Fallen tree leaves have been spread about fours inches deep in a wide circle around the base of a very large tree in a backyard.  Stones are used to create the circular perimeter and contain the leaves.
Piling the leaves around trees is a good way to retain them in the green space, all while giving an impression of “tidiness” to the yard. Photo: D. Mizejewski.

How to avoid “leaving the leaves” look messy?

So, you want to participate in the ”leave the leaves” action, but you still want to make clear that somebody is actually taking care of it. What to do?

  • If you have the option to ignore others’ opinions, you can just leave the leaves where they fell and go on with your life. 😊 That said, this may or not apply to most people.
  • You can pick certain areas of your green space to leave the leaves, but rake other areas. Perhaps you want to have the areas that are less exposed to people’s eyes be those selected for leaving the leaves. This will show that your leaving the leaves is purposeful and not just a lack of care.
  • If you have trees on your space, you can also decide to pile up the leaves around trees. This will provide shelter to insects and other small critters, provide mulch for the tree, and sign active care of your space.
  • A problem I sometimes hear about is leaves blowing over to another person’s yard or space. To avoid this, you can use plants to line/fence your green space. These plantings will have the positive effects of both allowing your leaves to stay on the ground, while minimizing “spill overs”.
  • Explain what you are doing. You can tell your neighbors about what is going on, and even put a sign up to clarify what is happening (if you want to go “fancy”, the Xerces Society has a neat one).
  • A thing NOT to do if you would like to retain arthropod diversity but also make the leaves look “tidier”, is mow them over. This has been shown to kill the insects that were preparing to overwinter in them. ☹
A "Pollinator Habitat" sign is visible in this part of the landscape where fallen tree leaves are spread about four inches deep in a garden bed. The sign explains that the leaves help overwintering pollinators survive the winter.
Displaying a sign that explains that some activities in our green spaces are creating pollinator habitat can go a long way. Photo: C. Corner.

How to leave the stems without issues

Another practice shown to support stem-nesting insects (including several bees) is not trimming pithy stems all the way down during the fall.

  • If you have the option to ignore others’ opinions, you can just leave the stems and go on with your life. 😊 That said, this may or not apply to most people.
  • As for the leaves, you can select sections of your space where you decide to implement this. An extension of this idea is that perhaps you can reconsider where your plantings are, so you have the pithy plants (e.g., brambles) in areas that you know are not going to be looked at all the time.
  • You can also decide to trim the plants down to some extent (about 2-3 ft from the ground) but not completely. This will show that you are taking care of the plants, but that you actively decided not to trim them all the way down.
  • Letting people know what is going on is always a good thing. You can add a little sign to tell people about what you’re doing and why, and/or you can talk to your neighbors to let them know.
2 foot to 3 foot lengths of tree branches and sticks are piled together in an out-of-the way spot in the yard to provide habitat for insects and other small critters. The pile is surrounded and held up four medium-size sticks stuck in the ground vertically at the corners of the pile.
Make your wood and stick piles look “organized” by defining spaces in your yard that you allocate to creating those biodiversity habitats. Photo: Natural History Museum.

Making a pile of sticks and wood without scaring people

Making stick piles is a very good practice to retain biodiversity in green spaces. That said, people can feel like a pile can look untidy, and even some cities may have some regulations about what type of pile may be OK versus not.

  • If you have the option to ignore others’ opinions, you can just make a pile and go on with your life. 😊 That said, this may or not apply to most people.
  • You can restrict the pile clearly to a specific area of your space, and make clear that you have actively decided to make one and are taking care of it. This is to sign that this is not just some brush you left around after you trimmed some plants, but actually a specific green space feature you are trying to build.
  • You can make it look cute. Check out this other blog, A Brilliant Fall Banquet, where some ideas are given.
  • Information, information, information. Let people know what this is and why you are doing it. And also, if there are some afraid of snakes or fires, make sure that the area you live is not known for its high fire or venomous snake danger (you can inform yourself about these topics online or ask an Extension agent; e.g., Venomous Snakes of Maryland.

By Anahí Espíndola, Associate Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.

Anahí also writes an Extension Blog in Spanish! Check it out here, 
extensionesp.umd.edu, and please share and spread the word to your Spanish-speaking friends and colleagues in Maryland. ¡Bienvenidos a Extensión en Español!

A Brilliant Fall Banquet for Birds, Butterflies, and Bees

It’s that most glorious time of year in Maryland, peak autumn, a time of constant change where every day brings new explosions of color. Beyond leaf peeping along our morning commutes, changes large and small are detectable in exquisite detail, if we only pause to step out in nature to look, listen, and smell the fragrance of the season in the air. 

Right now, migratory birds are coming and going, shrubs are blooming and berrying, bees of all stripes are scrambling for the last drops of nectar as fall flowers fade. With some surprisingly low-cost, low-maintenance strategies, you can begin right away to transform your local landscape into a brilliant fall banquet for birds, bees, and butterflies.


At this time of year, wintering birds are beginning to arrive from the north, while some summer visitors linger to enjoy the bounty of fall. Dark-eyed Juncos (Junco hyemalis) are already returning from their northern breeding grounds. I spotted my first juncos of the season flitting about the raised garden beds on Halloween right outside of the Anne Arundel County Extension office. 

cabbage white butterfly
Cabbage White (Pieris rapae) butterflies were introduced to North America and are common across Maryland. Their larvae are considered to be crop pests. They typically reach the end of their adult life cycles toward late October. Photo: S. Small-Lorenz

On the same day, Cabbage White butterflies were still mobbing blooming New York asters in the brilliant noon sunlight on a day of record-breaking late October heat. The viburnum berries had already been plucked, possibly by the Northern Mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos) singing nearby, and its outermost foliage had turned a deep Cabernet red on a chillier night. I suspect that mockingbird has now staked out the American holly berries ripening nearby, as he seeks to maximize his energy intake before winter sets in.

Northern Mockingbird. Photo: Matt MacGillivray, CC BY 4.0

At Howard County Conservancy the day before, I noticed winterberry shrubs loaded with ripening berries, where another singing mockingbird steadfastly stood guard. Native honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is flowering and berrying simultaneously, gracing the trellis archway into the native plant garden, and the common witch-hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) is blooming, our only witch-hazel to bloom in the fall. 

Taking cues like this from nature can be an excellent strategy for planning our conservation landscaping for year-round color. Planting native berrying shrubs and evergreens not only extends our color palette, it provides natural sources of food and shelter for songbirds like Gray Catbirds (Dumetella carolinensis), Northern Mockingbirds, Cedar Waxwings (Bombycilla cedrorum), Eastern Bluebirds (Sialia sialis), Yellow-rumped Warblers (Setophaga coronata), Ruby-crowned Kinglets (Corthylio calendula), and thrushes as temperatures cool and extra energy is required to fuel up before, during and after migration. 

Depending on your specific location and site conditions, consider planting Maryland native berrying shrubs to enhance your fall bird banquet. These could include northern bayberry, maple leaf viburnum, red osier dogwood, native honeysuckle, black elderberry, native hollies (American, inkberry, and winterberry), huckleberries, and red chokeberry

Leaving fall seed heads standing into winter also provides resources for a whole array of seed-eating birds like sparrows and finches. Even as flowers begin to wilt and fade, they still provide essential nectar resources to native insects that are beneficial for their pollination and pest control services, not to mention as songbird prey. 

So if you are considering what you can do right now for nature and the environment in your own neighborhood, here are a few low- to no-cost fall strategies to get you started right away:

  1. Map out one or more locations that you would like to dedicate to a native shrub planting area. Make note of conditions (wet/dry, sunny/shady, soil type) so that you can select the right plants for your site when the time comes. It isn’t too late to plant native shrubs in most parts of Maryland, but if you choose to wait for spring, you can still start preparing the bed and browsing for fall-berrying shrubs now (see #5)! If you don’t know your soil type, this is the perfect time to do some home soil analysis. Observe where stormwater flows off of your property, and consider planting a mulched stormwater buffer using arborist wood chips and native plants to absorb rainwater which can both help reduce downstream flooding and improve water quality while beautifying your landscape. 
  1. Pledge to leave the leaves this fall. Raking a thick layer of leaves into your designated shrub planting bed will almost immediately start to create habitat, retain soil moisture, and build rich living soils. I call this “Raking by Design.” Think about this – who rakes the leaves in the forest? Towhees, sparrows, jays, bats, squirrels, deer, and many more wild residents…a reminder that leaf “litter” is an important habitat component for many creatures, and it puts essential nutrients back into the soil as the leaves decompose. If you’re concerned about leaves blowing around, it’s fairly easy to contain whole leaves with low garden border fencing, but it isn’t entirely necessary. Consider designating a portion of your yard a ‘no-rake’ wild zone, where you leave the leaves undisturbed, right where they fall.
leaves piled in a garden with a leave the leaves sign
Leave the leaves for healthy soil and habitat. Photo: S. Small-Lorenz
  1. Leave your native flowers standing well into winter, beyond peak bloom. Birds, bees, and butterflies will benefit from the stems and seed heads well into fall and early winter. 
  1. Use fall prunings, cuttings, logs or stumps to create shelter for overwintering birds, bees, and other wildlife. Recycling your “yard waste” is one of the easiest, low cost ways to start building healthy soil and creating habitat to benefit biodiversity in your local landscape. This can take the form of a brush pile, wood pile (situated well away from your home’s foundation), leaving a natural stump instead of stump-grinding, or building a simple “bug snug” like the one pictured here.
sticks piled into a pyramid to make a bug snug shelter for insects
A “bug snug” made with cut woody stems, seed heads, and leaves will provide a shelter for overwintering insects, stem-nesting bees, and birds. Photo: C. Carignan
  1. Browse options for native berrying shrubs to plant this fall or next spring that would be right for the conditions in your yard. While browsing native plant resources like Alliance for Chesapeake Bay’s Native Plant Center, also make note of whether the shrubs you choose are dioecious or not, meaning that you may need to consider planting female and male plants near one another in order for flowers to be fertilized and berries to form. Finding native plants locally right when you want them can be a bit challenging when getting started, so take some time to familiarize yourself with Maryland native plant material sources via Maryland Native Plant Society’s native plant shopping resources

Which of these low-cost, low-maintenance strategies are you planning to try to enhance your fall living landscape? Which berrying shrubs might you consider adding to your fall banquet? Leave us a comment below, and don’t forget to let us know which wild visitors are enjoying the fall feast in your neighborhood!

By Stacy Small-Lorenz, Agent, Residential Landscape Ecology, University of Maryland Extension. Read more posts by Stacy.