Maryland Grows

Create a Stunning Boxwood Tree for Holiday Decor

December 20, 2025December 22, 2025Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

Boxwoods have graced gardens for thousands of years and become part of our holiday traditions. Native to Europe and Asia, boxwoods were used in Egyptian gardens as early as 4,000 BC. Ancient Romans and Greeks used the fine-grained wood to carve intricate combs, utensils, flutes, and, yes, boxes.

Boxwoods came to the Americas in the 1600s with European colonists. Today boxwood joins holly as an evergreen symbol of the holidays. What better way to honor its rich tradition than creating your own tabletop boxwood tree. It’s easier than you think.

You’ll need:

boxwood cuttings
pruners
floral foam block (the kind that absorbs water)
a knife
shallow waterproof container (which fits the end of the foam block snugly)
wire or floral picks
Your choice of decorations

Instructions:

When you’re ready to go, assemble all your supplies on a waterproof surface.

Soak your floral foam in a bucket for a few hours to a day before you make your tree.
Use your pruners to fill a bucket with boxwood cuttings, resting their stems in a few inches of water. When you make your tree, you’ll re-cut those stems into four- to six-inch lengths.
Cut your boxwood the day before you make your tree to let the cut stems drink heavily. And yes, I said the stems, not you! Okay, a little cider is fine. Or mulled wine!
- No – you aren’t harming your boxwoods by pruning them now. A late fall or winter pruning helps to shape them for next year. Just go easy, cutting no more than a third of the plant.
Cut the sides of one end of a block of floral foam at an angle to create a tree shape, leaving a flat top at the peak. Put the wider uncut side of the floral foam into your container.
Starting at the bottom, push cut boxwood stems into the foam in a circle around the base. Work your way up the foam, using shorter pieces as you go. Some find it easier to establish the base and top, then fill in.
- Push stems into the foam only once. Moving them damages the foam. Stripping off some leaves at the base of stems helps them to go in more easily.

Tip: Stand back often as you work to look at the shape. Perfection is overrated, but it should have an overall tree shape. Fill in any gaps. When you’re done, no green foam should show.

Voila! You’ve just made your first boxwood tree.

Now comes the fun part: decorating it!

Use floral picks or wire to attach ribbons and bows, pinecones and picks, balls, beads, birds, or other baubles. My last tree wore vintage lace, star anise, berries, and strands of pearls. When you’re done – and smiling, no doubt – water your boxwood tree. Put your finger in the container and slowly water from the top until you feel water on your finger. A well-watered tree can last for a month or two.

A decorated and fully assembled boxwood tree featuring a red cardinal at the top. — Holiday boxwood trees are unique, long-lasting holiday decorations.

I tip my hat to Master Gardener Dusty Graham for teaching me how to make boxwood trees, so I could now teach you. Thanks, Dusty!

I hope you’ll try your hand at making a boxwood tree or two. They add elegance to your holiday home and make wonderful gifts.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. Read more by Annette.

Okra is Summer

December 12, 2025December 10, 2025Maryland Grows4 Comments

As I write this, it’s a cold rainy day in early December, and I’m thinking about okra.

This sounds bonkers. You can’t even buy okra in grocery stores right now, and the only crop I’m harvesting from my garden is turnips. But I firmly believe that we should think about summer vegetables in the winter, at least for purposes of garden planning. The time to consider your okra seed purchase is not August, or July, or even June, when you might want to be planting it. If you’re ordering from a seed catalog (and you will get a far better choice of varieties that way, since stores usually offer one or possibly two kinds of okra seed), you need to plan ahead. Okay, maybe not as early as December. I’ve been thinking about okra because I plan to feature it in my own community garden plot next year, and I’ll also be in charge of a bed at the Derwood Demo Garden.

Frankly, we’ve underserved okra at Derwood in the past. We tend to think of it late in the planning process, or maybe not at all, and stick in about three plants in some less-than-ideal location. Okra will not be productive if it doesn’t get enough space to grow, or enough sun, and even under better conditions three plants are not sufficient for a decent harvest. Give it what it needs, however, and it will thrive. Okra is one of those rare crops that truly loves our hot, humid summers.

The other thing okra needs, that we’ve found hard to provide at the demo garden, is frequent harvesting. The pods grow fast and turn hard and inedible, and picking once a week is definitely not enough; we end up composting half our crop. We’ll need to get to the garden more often, but I doubt it’ll be more than twice a week, so as I’m looking at varieties to order seed, I’m concentrating on those that claim pods are tender even at larger sizes.

Not everyone loves okra (more on that below) but if you do, it is worth growing your own. Here are some things to think about as you peruse the seed catalogs and plan your garden:

Some catalogs also only have two sorts of okra available. That’s okay, they are probably well-tested ones (Clemson Spineless and Red Burgundy, I’m looking at you). But if you want to have a broader choice, check out catalogs that feature heirloom varieties, or that originate in the south, where okra is a beloved crop.
Read the descriptions carefully. Some varieties are meant for small gardens or container growing, and max out at two or three feet; some will be eight feet tall and three feet wide. Most are in the middle. The pods also vary considerably in length and thickness. Colors vary as well (green, red (anywhere from burgundy to orange), or green with red highlights).
You can start seeds either in pots or directly in the garden, but read up on seed scarification. Okra seeds are tough and will need to be soaked and/or nicked or roughened up before they will germinate.
Okra likes it hot, so wait until late May or early June to put it in the garden. Or later, if you’re pulling out a spring crop and have bed space available. Check days to maturity to figure out how late you can start a variety; you’ll want to start harvesting at least by mid-August, so for a 60 day crop, plant by mid-June.
Give the plants full sun and plenty of space (about 18 inches apart for larger varieties). They are fairly drought-resistant when full-grown, but of course they need watering well as seedlings.
Okra flowers are gorgeous, by the way, so make sure you enjoy them!
Harvest frequently. Every other day is ideal. You can save up the pods for a few days in the fridge and cook them all at once. If I’m not certain whether a pod is too tough to eat, I give it a squeeze; if it makes a cracking sound, it goes in the compost.

All right, but isn’t okra slimy? Or, to use a perhaps even less attractive word, mucilaginous? It certainly can be, if it’s not treated right. Maybe in soups and stews that’s okay, especially in whatever favorite okra dish you may have grown up with, but if the sliminess turns you off, here are some ways to mitigate the mucus.

Young okra is great eaten raw in a salad, with dips, or as a snack while standing in the garden, and it’s fresh and crunchy and not slimy at all.
Traditional breaded and fried okra is terrific and if there is slime, you don’t notice it. Probably you don’t want to eat it this way every day, but it’s a fantastic treat. You can also use an air fryer to avoid all that oil.
If you’re frying okra without a crisp coating to distract you, here’s a secret: keep it dry. Wash it and then rub it thoroughly in a dish towel to get rid of any moisture. Make sure the cutting board and the knife are dry before cutting into the okra. You can either toss it in oil and seasonings before putting it in the pan, or place it in an oiled pan and season there, but make sure no water-based liquid touches it. The slime doesn’t develop in its absence. Air fryers work here too.

I hope you’ll join me in thinking about okra for next summer!

By Erica Smith, Montgomery County Master Gardener. Read more posts by Erica.

Gardeners Give Thanks for a Garden’s Gifts

November 18, 2025Maryland Grows7 Comments

Gardeners are a grateful lot. Why? We toss a handful of seeds in the soil and up come all manner of flowers and food. The sticks we plant turn into roses. Acorns become oak trees. It’s all quite miraculous. Granted, in between there’s a bit of work. We water and weed, hoe and mulch, and spend an inordinate amount of time on our knees. Perhaps it’s that prayerful stance that graces our harvests.

Perhaps it also helps us to accept the vagaries of wind and weather, rain and frost that would make lesser humans weep. We know, somehow, not to toss in the trowel when things go wrong. It’s character building, I’m told. Tomorrow the sun will shine. The frost will nip only the outer buds. The torrential rains eventually end. When disaster departs and we are left with dew-dazzled leaves, the warmth of the sun, and the smell of musty earth, we are grateful. It could have been worse.

A close-up image of a bee on a sunflower flower feeding on nectar and covered with pollen grains. — A bee dusts itself with pollen as it feeds on nectar in a sunflower
Photo credit: Joan Willoughby

So, we celebrate the first handful of fresh peas, the juicy tang of a tomato. We savor the wine-tinged nectar of a grape and the heavenly scent and squish of the first strawberry. My, but there is so much to give thanks for that feeds both body and soul. Beauty abounds in a garden. It stirs the breeze with a butterfly’s wing. It hums with a pollen-dusted honeybee. It sings in birdsong and glows in a lemon-yellow tulip. As gardeners, we are front row center to all this loveliness.

A close-up of a monarch butterfly feeding on the nectar of a milkweed plant. — A monarch butterfly sips on a native plant at the Boonsboro Library pollinator planting.
Photo credit: Jackie Schwab

And we appreciate the mental and physical workout that gardening provides. Bending and stretching to pull weeds, tie up vines, and turn compost is good exercise. No gym can compete with the fresh air and sunshine we get in tending our plots. We also value the lessons learned. What’s that bug? What caused those spots? What tree would work best there? What shrub? We look it up, phone a friend, or Ask Extension. We never stop learning.

A smiling woman working in a garden. — UME Master Gardener Tracy Barlup helps with a restoration planting at Kiwanis Park’s Monarch Waystation. Photo credit: Ann Aldrich

Gardening friends are a godsend. They bring a sympathetic ear, a scrap of advice, a tender cutting, and abundant camaraderie. Most of my closest friends are gardeners, and I value them dearly. Together we live the seasons. Spring brings rain. Summer brings heat. And fall brings the avalanche of harvest. Bushels of potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and squash fill our larders and set our canners boiling. We gladly share our bounty with friends and family.

A carton of chicken eggs and harvested vegetables, including carrots, tomatoes, and butternut squash, on a table outdoors. — A celebrated harvest at the Master Gardener
demonstration garden. Photo credit: Ann Aldrich

Who among us is able to get through a holiday season without giving a few gifts from the garden? Jars of jam, tins of lavender cookies, homemade applesauce, and herbal liquors are wrapped with care. We give of ourselves and our gardens. So, in this season of thankfulness, we gardeners are especially grateful. For we touch the earth and it gives back so much. Food. Beauty. Knowledge. The fellowship of gardening friends. We grow with our gardens and count ourselves richly blessed.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. Read more by Annette.

Root Crops in the Fall

November 7, 2025November 6, 2025Maryland Grows4 Comments

*Radish, golden beets, and white turnip*

If you’re seeing all kinds of lovely root vegetables at farmer’s markets this time of year, start planning now so you can grow them yourself next fall! I am so glad I decided to put in seeds for beets, turnips, and radishes back in August. These are all super-easy crops to grow, if you follow a few simple guidelines.

Here are the steps from thought to harvest:

Plan ahead! Buy your seeds for fall planting when you get the ones for spring and summer, because they may be hard to find later on. (Autumn root crops are usually grown from seed; buying plants is a waste of money since you only get one root per plant.) Radishes, beets, turnips, and carrots are all good choices.
Make space. Allowing room for fall crops can be difficult in a small garden. If some of your summer crops are not looking too great, take them out and prepare the bed for fall seeding. Or plant a bed with a summer cover crop or a quick-growing crop you know you’ll be removing soon, such as bush beans.
Prepare your soil. Root crops like a loose soil – try inserting a trowel into the soil, and if you have to force it in, you will not get a great root harvest. Add some compost! Raised beds provide the ideal environment, since the soil seldom gets compacted. Make sure your planting area gets plenty of sun.
Know how long your root crops will take to mature. It’s disappointing to not get edible roots because you didn’t allow enough time. Check HGIC’s planting guides for general information on timing, and also check the seed packet which will give you specifics for the variety you’re growing. Root crops are hardy and will tolerate frosts, so you can plan harvest for anytime from early October to late November, but the later you start the seeds, the slower the plants will grow. (This has more to do with the amount of sun than the temperature.) For a crop that lists 60 days to maturity from seeding, plant in mid-August (you’re allowing an extra week or two for the fall slowdown). Quicker crops like radishes can be planted in succession from late August to late September. Most root crops will sit in the ground just fine in cool weather, so you can harvest them as you need them.
Plant as directed. Don’t worry too much about spacing since you will be thinning later on.
Keep paying attention as the plants grow. Water regularly if it doesn’t rain, and take out weeds as soon as you can recognize which are the desirable plants. If your soil is low in phosphorus or potassium (which is unlikely), you may need to fertilize, but regular additions of compost through the year usually do the trick with these quick-growing crops. Thin the seedlings when they are several inches high – this means pulling out the plants in between a final set that are several inches apart. Think about what the roots will look like in maturity (what they look like when you buy them), and allow that much room plus a bit extra between plants. I find it easier to thin in two stages, taking out bunches when the plants are small and then a few more as they mature. You can eat the thinnings in salads, if you wish; they’re all edible and delicious.
Harvest when ready! All of these root crops will show some of the root portion above the soil, so you can check on size without pulling them out.

In practice, I’m often not on top of thinning, and it was hard to water enough this year with our persistent drought. So some of my root crops, especially the beets, are smaller than they should be. (On the other hand, some of the radishes are enormous.) But even with mistakes I manage to get good results! Try root crops next year and harvest some treasure from underground.

By Erica Smith, Montgomery County Master Gardener. Read more posts by Erica.

Little Beetles Are All Over My House!

October 31, 2025Maryland Grows2 Comments

Q: What should I do about Asian beetles? There are hundreds of them on my house.

Multicolored Asian lady beetles (Harmonia axyridis) vary in color and the number of spots.
Photo: Gyorgy Csoka, Hungary Forest Research Institute, Bugwood.org

A: There are multiple species of insects in our area that are native to Asia. The ones on your house are Multicolored Asian Lady Beetles (ladybugs). These beneficial insects are looking for a sheltered place to spend the winter. For this insect, or any other insect trying to enter on chilly nights, all you need to do is seal any gaps, cracks, or other access points. There is no effective repellent, and while the insects won’t harm people or damage the home itself, they can be a nuisance when they find their way in, since they are trying to find shelter for the winter. Check the window screening for tears that need to be repaired, and the door weather stripping for any gaps or worn-out pieces that require replacement.

By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.

Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.

Q&A: Why Do My Boxwoods Look Off-Color?

October 24, 2025Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

Boxwood leaves that are yellowish and blistered due to Boxwood Leafminer feeding. — Yellowing of boxwood leaves caused by Boxwood Leafminer feeding. Photo credit: Miri Talabac

Q: I have a low hedge of boxwoods that are looking somewhat orange-tinted and less dense than usual. What might be causing this?

A: Boxwood Leafminer is my primary suspect, and I have recently seen boxwoods looking just like you describe, which had high populations of this common insect pest.

With only one generation per year, this species of fly is currently in its larval (juvenile) stage inside the leaves. Since larvae feed on tissues between the upper and lower leaf layers, you need to peel the leaf apart to find them to confirm their presence. Outwardly, affected leaves will become blistered-looking and have a blotchy yellow or orange-yellow color. Leafminer damage can also cause the shrubs to shed some leaves prematurely, so the branches will have more sparse growth towards the plant’s interior than a healthy shrub would have.

Boxwood Leafminer larvae are tiny orange-yellow legless maggots, only a few millimeters long. However, they are readily visible if you open a leaf and examine it with a hand lens, since the rest of the leaf interior will be light green. They will pause feeding as winter approaches and overwinter in a state of suspended development, resuming more voracious feeding in early spring. Larvae pupate and transform into orange gnat-like adults by late April or early May (depending on temperature trends).

Boxwood leaf tissue has been cut away to reveal Boxwood Leafminer larvae feeding between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Photo credit: John Davidson, Ph.D., UMD

Some boxwood cultivars have greater resistance to leafminer (as well as to fungal diseases) than others. When the insects are too abundant for their damage to be tolerable, prune out the infested branch tips or, as a last resort, consider using an insecticide to reduce their numbers. Keep in mind, though, that insecticide use can have unintended consequences: it might facilitate an increase in boxwood spider mites (by killing mite predators); harm pollinators visiting the boxwood’s flowers; or harm insect or spider predators wandering its foliage that would be eating pests.

You can learn more about leafminer as well as other common boxwood ailments on Extension’s boxwood diagnostic web page (go.umd.edu/boxwood]).

Meet the “Earth Almond,” aka Yellow Nutsedge

October 21, 2025Maryland Grows1 Comment

You may have suddenly noticed yellow nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus) crowding into your mulched garden beds or lawn in late summer/early fall. Also known as “chufa sedge, tiger nut, or earth almond,” this charismatic and fascinating plant was one of humanity’s earliest cultivated plants. It is still cultivated and considered a culinary treat in North and West Africa, western Europe, and China for its nutritious nut-like tubers attached to underground stems known as “rhizomes.”

Yellow Nutsedge (*Cyperus esculentus*) can quickly colonize bare spots in a mulched planting bed. Photo credit: Stacy Small-Lorenz | UMD

Yellow nutsedge can be identified by its yellowish coloration, stiff triangular stem, and three long leaf bracts at the base of a puffy brown flower. It tends to thrive in sunny areas with moist, disturbed soils. While similar in appearance to straw-colored flatsedge (Cyperus strigosus), it can be distinguished by its small, nut-like tubers. One yellow nutsedge plant can produce thousands of tubers, which allows it to produce more vegetation in the spring. Yellow nutsedge flowers in late summer and early fall and is a wind-pollinated plant that cannot self-pollinate.

Yellow Nutsedge (*Cyperus esculentus*) tubers and rhizomes. Tubers distinguish it from
Straw-colored Flatsedge (*Cyperus strigosus*). Photo credit: Stacy Small-Lorenz | UMD

Yellow nutsedge colonized North America before Europeans did, so it is considered native here by some sources. In Maryland, it is most abundant in the Piedmont and Coastal Plain ecoregions. It is often treated as an aggressive agricultural and lawn weed across the U.S. because it can quickly take over disturbed areas and may outcompete lawn or garden plants. It tends to thrive in mulched beds and lawns that are overwatered or mowed too short.

To remove yellow nutsedge manually, you’ll have more success starting early in the season, when the plants have fewer than five small leaves. If you’re pulling in late summer or early fall, once flowers have developed, you might leave tubers and rhizomes behind in the soil that will only multiply. So, if you’re trying to manage its spread, try to remove as much of the underground plant material as possible, then stay on top of pulling it early when it emerges again next summer. You might also consider re-planting the area densely with a variety of native plants suited for sunny, moist conditions, then stay on top of weeding in spring.

If you choose to make peace with yellow nutsedge as part of your landscape, however, you can take comfort in knowing that its large underground biomass contributes organic matter and aeration to clay soils, improving water infiltration and soil structure for enhanced plant growth. It also makes a greater contribution to biodiversity than turfgrass – it’s a food source for Wild Turkeys and a wide variety of mammals that root up the tubers, and it is noted by the Maryland Biodiversity Project to be a larval host plant for the Dun Skipper (Euphyes vestris).

The Dun Skipper (*Euphyes* *vestris)* uses Yellow Nutsedge as its larval host plant.
Photo Credit: Katie Woods | iNaturalist CC BY-NC

By Stacy Small-Lorenz, Ph.D., Residential Landscape Ecology Specialist, University of Maryland Extension. Read more posts by Stacy.