Avoid the Holiday Plant Blues

A cluster of red and white blooms display on Amaryllis stalks.
Amaryllis sport large lily-like flower clusters.
Photo:  Home & Garden Information Center

There should be a support group for those determined to keep holiday plants like poinsettias and cyclamen looking fabulous long past the holidays. We’ll call it the Post-Holiday Plant Blues Club.


Okay, some holiday plants like Christmas cactus are pretty easy. Others, not so
much. But if you’re willing to give it a go, I’m happy to give you the low-down on what each needs.

Poinsettias

red poinsettia plants
Rich red poinsettias are a classic holiday plant.
Photo: Home and Garden Information Center


Poinsettias are tropical plants, so they like it warm and moist. Put them in bright
– but not direct – light with no drafts. Water when the soil feels dry. If your plant is
wrapped in foil, ditch the foil and set the plant in a pot so water can drain. Or poke holes
in the foil and set it in a saucer. You’ll get several weeks of blooms, maybe more if you
speak sweetly to it.

Amaryllis

Two Amaryllis bulbs dipped in wax. One is pink and the other is pink glitter.

Amaryllis bulbs often come dipped in wax for an instant gift that does not need soil or water. Typically, they bloom quickly like this. If planting, you would carefully remove the wax coating by peeling it off.
Photo: Miri Talabac, UMD Extension – HGIC

Amaryllis sends up clusters of large lily-like blooms on thick stems. If you received an amaryllis in bud or bloom, put it in a sunny spot in a room that stays 60 degrees or warmer. Water when the top of the soil is dry. If you got an amaryllis bulb as a gift, plant it in potting soil in a container just larger than the bulb. Allow a third of the bulb to stick up above the soil, with its pointed tip – amusingly called the nose – up. Water thoroughly and move it to a sunny spot when it sprouts. Amaryllis bloom about four weeks after they sprout and keep blooming for
about a month.

Cyclamen

 A Cyclamen with pink delicate frilly blooms atop variegated leaves.

Cyclamen hold their delicate red, white or pink blooms high above their leaves like fistfuls of scarves fluttering in the breeze.
Unfortunately, they are more than a little fussy. They like temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees and very bright light, conditions that are rare in most homes. Water them like a violet, from the bottom with room-temperature water. I love this plant, but we rarely have a long-term relationship. A gorgeous pink one blooms on my windowsill, mocking me with its fickleness. I look great! I flop. I perk up! I flop. Such a drama queen. But a half-price sale lured me into trying once again.

Photo: Annette Cormany, UMD Extension

Christmas Cactus


At the other end of the care spectrum are oh-so-easy Christmas cactus. They like
bright, indirect light but need more water than their desert cousins. In fact, they are
tropical epiphytes that grow in trees in their natural habitat. I water mine weekly.
Christmas cactus also wins the top prize for longevity among holiday plants. I know
many people who have had them for years, generously sharing cuttings.
I once flew Christmas cactus cuttings home in my luggage, stumping everyone at
the airport security scan. What is that?! I did a little show and tell, and they let me keep
my treasure.

A lush Christmas cactus displaying colorful magenta blooms, sitting in a bright window.
A windowsill is a good place for Christmas cactus to live as long as its not too drafty. Photo: Wilma Holdway


Unlike Christmas cactus, most holiday plants are fickle. Yes, poinsettias,
amaryllis and cyclamen can be kept year-round and forced to bloom again after varying
periods of darkness and dormancy. But honestly, I never bother.

It’s just too much trouble to track X hours of darkness for Y weeks at Z
temperatures. Plants are supposed to be fun. So, my holiday plants are just that: holiday
plants that add color and beauty to the season. I just chucked my poinsettia. Don’t judge.

However, if you love a challenge and want to try to keep these plants going, here
are some links with care tips for maximizing their beauty long-term.

Happy nurturing!

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. Read more by Annette.

Q&A: How can I fix flowering issues with my Christmas cactus?

Christmas Cactus with a few dark pink blooms near a window.
This Christmas cactus may be struggling to bloom due its location in the home with lower light conditions.
Photo: Ask Extension, UMD HGIC.

Q: This year, I am again having problems with the flowers on my Christmas Cactus. The plant gets an abundance of flower buds, but most of the ones that flower do not flower completely. Many partially flower, but then start drooping before fully blooming and opening. Also, many of the buds fall off before blooming. I am careful not overwater, and the plant is in a window facing the east.

A: It can be difficult to know for sure what is causing the symptoms, but possibilities include low ambient humidity (these cacti are native to jungle environments, where they grow as epiphytes on the trees like orchids do), temperature fluctuations, under-watering, and possibly exposure to ethylene gas, which can come from a group of ripe fruit and leaks in gas appliances.

When watering, make sure the potting mix is thoroughly rehydrated, and excess water freely drains out of the bottom drain holes. To boost humidity, consider using a humidifier (misting foliage will not be effective).

An east-facing window doesn’t give the plant much light (especially this time of year and if the plant isn’t directly in front of the pane), so if you have an option to grow it in a west- or south-facing window, that may help with growth and vigor overall, even if it may not change much with regards to flower bud dropping. In fact, that may need to wait until after the flowering period, as Iowa State notes that “to avoid flower bud drop, do not move the plant during flower bud development,” though it can be moved once flowers are opening. Michigan State mentions a couple of other causes, such as exposing the plant to light that interrupts its required 13 hours of darkness (a seasonal trigger for flowering) and exposing the plant to temperature swings (drafts), particularly below about 50 degrees. The linked page has more details about the darkness period.

You can also refer to a blog post from a few years back for some further reading: Christmas cacti make lovely gifts and decor by Annette Cormany.

A lush Christmas cactus displaying colorful magenta blooms, sitting in a bright window.
Heavy blooms are a hallmark of Christmas cactus and its cousin, the Thanksgiving cactus.
Photo credit: Washington County Master Gardener Wilma Holdway.

By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.