How to Make a Rain Barrel System for Your Yard and Garden

rain barrels are tucked into landscape shrubs next to a building
An example of a home rain barrel system. Photo: Adobe Stock

The extreme heat and lack of precipitation this season have forced many people to get creative with finding a way to water their gardens. Rain barrels are a great addition to your outdoor space!

Rain barrels can be sophisticated with features like valves, hoses, etc., or they can be any type of container that holds water. Please remember that the container should be food-grade so that nothing toxic will leach out of the container and there should be a mesh screen/net over the top so that mosquitoes cannot enter to lay their eggs. 

green rain barrels
Example of a rain barrel system with a screened lid.

Stormwater runoff

Anytime precipitation flows across the land, it becomes runoff. Precipitation may infiltrate into the soil or run off into streams, bodies of water, drains, or evaporate back into the atmosphere. In nature, most precipitation is absorbed by trees and other plants, or it may permeate or “soak” into the ground, which results in recharging groundwater supplies and bodies of water. However, when there are impervious surfaces (pavement, buildings/roofs, and other structures and materials covering the soil), this precipitation can no longer soak into the soil and has to go somewhere else. When stormwater is not managed correctly, it can result in catastrophic consequences such as stream bank erosion, flooding, pollution, threats to human health, and tainted water supplies. The University of Maryland Extension provides more information on stormwater management in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed

Environmental Site Design practices from the Maryland Department of the Environment have changed the way residential stormwater is managed and recommend that homeowners address stormwater discharge at the individual level. Individuals can make a difference by reducing the quantity and improving the quality of any stormwater that is leaving their specific property. It is important to realize that activities on your property can adversely affect neighboring landscapes, as water does not follow property boundaries. Penn State’s Homeowners Guide to Stormwater Management is an awesome resource to help you investigate your property and see what changes you can make. With stormwater, you want to slow it down and let it soak into the soil and one of the ways that you can do this is by utilizing a container for rainwater collection. 

a row of green rain barrels
A rain barrel distribution in Garrett County was sponsored by Deep Creek Watershed Foundation in 2024. It has shared 190 free rain barrels with the community! 

Rainwater harvesting is when a device such as a barrel or cistern is used to catch natural precipitation. These containers are often positioned at the edge of a building drainage system, above or below the ground, and are examples of micro-scale stormwater management techniques to slow down a small amount of water and use it later when there is no precipitation. This allows the capture and re-use of rainwater to promote water conservation, reduce runoff volumes, and the discharge of pollutants downstream. 

Using stored rainwater can decrease municipal water usage (allowing this potable water for vital drinking) and provide a source of water that is free from chlorine, fluoride, etc. Water that is caught in a rain barrel is considered non-potable and not safe for human consumption— no bathing, no drinking, and no cooking. It can be used for watering plants and lawns, rinsing tools, adding to a compost pile, filling ornamental ponds and bird baths, washing vehicles, or even flushing toilets during a power outage. Please note that there is some special guidance for using rain barrel water to water a vegetable garden. The Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station has a great fact sheet that outlines some of the cautions and best practices and recommendations that include using bleach to reduce contaminants, using the water on the soil only, and not harvesting vegetables at the same time that you are watering. 

Preparing your site for rain barrel installation

Identify where you will be placing your rain barrel. Be sure to think about how you will use your rainwater and if you need to raise the barrel to get a watering can, bucket, etc., under the nozzle to empty the barrel. The site should be clean of debris and level. If it’s not level, build a platform out of rocks, pavers, stones, blocks, or even wood. You do not want the water barrel to tip over or fill up unevenly. Remember that a standard-size rain barrel is 55 gallons, which means it weighs more than 400 pounds when full of water! 

Installing the rain barrel

Most 55-gallon rain barrels will get full in a matter of minutes if a roof downspout is routed to fill the container, so it is very important to plan for the overflow once the barrel is full. Rain barrel or downspout diverters can be installed so that once the barrel is full, the water will then go back to following the original drainage path. There must be a plan in place to capture the excess water so that no damage is done to building foundations. Also, know that until the barrel catches water for the first time, it can be caught and blown by the wind, so it’s important to have something to weigh it down, either a brick, rock, or block. Do not add rain barrels or disconnect downspouts near septic systems or drinking wells or springs and be sure to avoid utilities such as electric, cable, internet, sewer, or gas lines. Always call Miss Utility before any digging or construction of any kind. 

Internet search results for rain barrel diverter
Search results for “rain barrel diverter.” These allow for cutting the downspout one time and installing a diverter. Once the rain barrel is filled from natural rainfall, the diverter routes the excess water back into the original drainage system. Photo: A. Bodkins

Maintaining your rain barrel 

You want to be sure that you are emptying and using the water that is stored in your rain barrel as soon as possible (at least every 5-7 days) to ensure that the water stays as fresh as possible. If you have extra water in the barrel and rain is in the forecast, just let it trickle into a nearby flowerbed or hook up a drip irrigation hose so that the stored water can slowly soak into the ground. Again, one benefit of the rain barrel is to slow down water during a precipitation event and allow it to sink into the soil later on. Having a darker-colored rain barrel can help slow algae growth; however, you might need to occasionally clean your barrel with a mild bleach solution. It is also very important to keep the screen free of debris/leaves/etc. and in good condition and the lid securely in place. In climates where snow and freezing temperatures occur, rain barrels will have to be drained, and downspouts reconnected to original drainage pathways in late fall. Barrels should be stored in an outbuilding/garage or simply turned upside down so that the barrel does not freeze solid and bust.   In Spring, barrels can then be reconnected and used again. 

Resources for building a rain barrel

Rain Barrels: How to Build Your Own, Part 1 | Rutgers New Jersey Extension

Rain Barrels:  Why, When, & How| University of Maryland Extension, Garrett County, archived webinar

Consider adding a rain barrel to your landscape today!

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland. Read more posts by Ashley.

All photos in this article, unless otherwise noted, were shared by participants in the rain barrel program supported by the Deep Creek Watershed Foundation.  


How to Protect Pollinators in the Fall

Did you know that how and when you cut back your perennials and tidy your landscape matters to pollinators?  

I just read a fact sheet from the Xerces Society that opened my eyes to more ways to help pollinators year-round, especially in the fall.   

I already make sure I have something blooming from April to frost, so pollen and nectar are always available. And I emphasize native plants that coevolved with pollinators to support them best.

But beyond flowers, there are many things we can do to provide shelter for nesting and overwintering pollinators. And we can start some of them in the fall. 

Pollinators and other insects shelter in stems and branches of trees, shrubs, and flowers. They also shelter in leaf litter, undisturbed or bare ground, dead wood, brush piles, and rock piles.  

Incorporating these features in your landscape – rather than cleaning them away – supports bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.   

So how can you make your garden more welcoming to pollinators this fall?

Start with the stems. Don’t cut back your perennials until late spring. Bees and other pollinators hibernate in the stems in winter. Only remove unhealthy plant stems to manage disease.  

But doesn’t that look a little unkempt? Yes, but messy is beautiful – and necessary for pollinators to survive and thrive.  

Master Gardener sign explaining why a messy garden is good for pollinators. Source: A. Cormany

The Master Gardeners and I believe this so strongly that signs in our teaching gardens say, “Excuse our mess, pollinators at rest,” to explain why we don’t cut back plants in the fall.

Next, leave some leaves. Most butterflies and moths use leaf litter to protect eggs, caterpillars, chrysalises, or adults over the winter. 

Wooly bear caterpillars tuck into leaf piles. Luna moths wrap their cocoons in leaves. Some butterflies lay eggs on fallen leaves. Queen bumble bees burrow into soil under leaves.  

A luna moth cocoon wrapped in leaves to wait out the winter.  
Photo:  M. Raupp

So pile some leaves around trees, shrubs, and perennials as a natural mulch. They will suppress weeds, hold moisture, and feed the soil. I chip some leaves but leave some whole.    

I often use leaf mulch in my vegetable garden, too. And when I had a larger landscape, I kept a 3-foot border of leaves against a stone wall to provide more shelter.   

Leaves aren’t litter: they’re habitat. Ideally, some leaves will become a permanent part of your landscape. Pick a corner, an edge, or a garden. I let leaves lie in a small woodland garden. 

But if you need to remove some of the leaves, try to leave them in place until mid-spring to give  overwintering pollinators a chance to emerge.  

This is really a glimpse of the many ways you can invite and support pollinators year-round. Learn more about Pollinator Gardens on the Home and Garden Information Center website.

Thanks for all you are doing to protect pollinators. It matters.  

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension.

This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media. Read more by Annette.

Q&A: What Causes Patchy Wilting?

Sometimes individual stems wilt on otherwise healthy perennials. Photo: C. Carignan, University of Maryland Extension

Q:  Why would my perennial Lobelia be only partially wilting? I keep an eye on watering so it doesn’t get too dry.

A:  This can often be the work of an infection or, less commonly, stem-boring insects. Since stem-boring insects in perennials are rarely a cause for concern, I’ll focus on the pathogens.

Sometimes it’s hard to diagnose the cause of wilting with certainty since distinctive symptoms identifying the culprit aren’t always visible; there’s a lot of symptom overlap. During summer, heat-loving fungi like Southern Blight can cause wilting because the pathogen kills the stem tissue close to the soil line, cutting the top growth off from its water supply and causing it to collapse. A wide variety of fungi and fungus-like “water molds” can cause above- or below-ground infections throughout the year, with some prospering in cool conditions while others need heat. Wilting when the soil isn’t dry can be a telltale sign of infection or physical stem or root damage.

To reduce vulnerability to diseases like Southern Blight, plant crowns need to get good airflow. (The crown is where stems emerge from the root system.) Avoid over-mulching, which covers up or crowds the crown and stem bases; nudge it a few inches away so it’s not piled against the stems. High humidity and dew are sometimes enough moisture for fungi to survive and begin infections, but over-watering plants by irrigating too often can make fungal outbreaks more likely. (This includes lawn grasses, if sprinklers are run frequently.)

Mycelium, which is the “body” of a fungus, is sometimes visible as white webbing or threads covering the infected part of the plant, but it’s not always prominent. (It is usually noticeable with Southern Blight.) Any wilting or collapsed stems need to be removed, since they will not recover. Prune them off and dispose of the debris; don’t compost it.

One or two wilted stems doesn’t necessarily doom the entire plant patch or garden bed, but keep an eye out for worsening symptoms like more rampant dieback. No fungicides can reverse this damage or eliminate spores from the soil permanently. Nor would you want to attempt chemical soil sterilization, as plenty of beneficial fungi, bacteria, and other organisms inhabit the soil. Many of them can out-compete, directly kill or consume, or otherwise stifle the development of pathogens like these. Fungicide impacts are not limited to the pathogens, and some could even have harmful consequences for pollinators.

If Southern Blight is responsible, you can dig out and dispose of the affected plant, plus remove a few inches of the surface soil with it. This is not because the plant’s roots are going to also be infected, but because plant regrowth could be infected again by the spores remaining on the soil surface, and you don’t want to give the fungus more fuel for expansion. If you dig out soil but don’t want to throw it out (soil is a precious resource, after all), just bury the layers with potential spore contamination to a depth of 6 inches or so, where the spores should not survive.

Southern Blight, as with many similar blight and rot diseases, have an extensive range of plants they are capable of infecting. Why, then, don’t we see rampant die-offs in cultivated and wild plants for such common and destructive fungi? Interactions between organisms are complex, and as with insect diversity, there are microbe species which are beneficial, especially in healthy soil that is not too compacted, oxygen-deprived, wet or poorly drained, or low in organic matter (all conditions that favor common pathogens).

By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.

Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask ExtensionOur horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.

Heat Waves Affect Pollination Too

Having grown up in the plains of Argentina, surrounded by large rivers, swamps, hot summers and humidity, I can attest that I am pretty “heat tolerant.” While others complain of the heat, I just enjoy the “embrace” that a hot day gives me. The heat in the last few weeks, however, was even too hot for me! And while I was trying to cool down, I was also worrying about what I was seeing outside: the plants, the insects, the soil… all suffering like me. And because I happen to work on some of these topics, I also knew that it wasn’t just that some plants were drying out; this heat wave (and drought) is also affecting the whole network of interactions that happen around us. So, today let me tell you a bit about how these extreme heat waves affect one of those interactions – pollination – and how what we do in our green spaces can help reduce some of those effects to the benefit of all.

Pollination is affected by heat in more ways than we usually think

Extreme heat waves and droughts such as those we have been experiencing recently affect not only us but also the ecosystems that are exposed to the heat. One of the most evident effects we may see is how much plants suffer. Just look outside and you will see hanging leaves, tiny flowers (if any), and a lot of dry material. As with all organisms, plants also have optimal temperatures at which they can survive; if the temperatures and water availability change, important body functions will not be able to be performed, and even some central parts of their bodies will fail.

In plants, one of those functions is photosynthesis, the process by which plants can make sugar using the energy of the sun, carbon dioxide (CO2), and water. This process is the way the vast majority of plants make their food. If the process is disturbed, the plant will have less energy available to survive, grow, and reproduce. It turns out that extreme heat and water needs affect the ability of plants to photosynthesize. The consequence of this is that, suddenly, the plant has less energy available, needing to enter a sort of “survival mode.” Along with this, the heat affects several protection systems that the plant has, especially those that protect the DNA (the genetic material), as well as the functioning of the machinery that literally “builds” the different parts of the plant. This inefficient protection leads to the DNA being damaged and the plant being poorly “built”, making that part or the whole plant start malforming.

plants with browing stems due to drought
During the heat waves, these beebalm plants had a rough time, with almost no flowers produced and a lot of the plant material simply drying out. Photo: A. Espíndola

In relation to pollination, we know that these changes explain why, under heat and water stress, plants become smaller in size, have tiny or no flowers, lose a lot of leaves and biomass in general, and have parts that start to look “funky.” The changes in the energy availability make the composition of some secretions change as well, such as with nectar, which tends to be less rich in sugars and less abundant (especially when drought is experienced).

a plant with smaller than usual yellow flowers
These black-eyed Susans were able to make flowers this year, but they are significantly smaller than usual! Photo: A. Espíndola

As said before, flowers tend to be small or absent, but even when they are present, the petals and reproductive organs are often misshapen, with the plant becoming unable to produce seeds and fruits. Finally, and super importantly for pollination, a major effect of this is that heat affects pollen quality, reducing the amount that is produced and often making the pollen inviable… meaning that even if the pollen was to land on a stigma, it would likely not germinate, and fertilization would not take place. This latter point is worrisome because it means that even plants that are not animal-pollinated (e.g., plants pollinated by wind or water) will be unable to produce seeds and fruits. 😱

Pollinators suffer the heat, and that affects their survival and pollination

Pollinating insects are also affected by the heat, and some of these effects are related to the same facts we mentioned for plants. On the one hand, like plants, pollinators also have their own DNA and “body-building” machinery that is disturbed by heat. Some of the major consequences of this are that their development can be either interrupted (the larvae or pupae die off) or interfered with. If the development is interfered with, we see malformations in different organs, such as the wings, legs and mouth parts, and particularly in males, of reproductive organs and sperm. Further, extreme heat appears to affect bee neurological abilities, with their behaviors and memory affected, as well as changes in the way they visit and manipulate flowers, which in turn makes pollination more difficult.

Along with these issues, because of the changes in nectar quality and quantity associated with plant heat stress that we mentioned earlier, the pollinators’ nutrition is also negatively impacted, which further amplifies the developmental, behavioral, and neurological problems mentioned above. Although all insects experience these types of effects when they are exposed to excessive heat, some of them are a bit better at protecting themselves from it. For example, it seems that social bees suffer less from excessive heat than solitary bees, while bees that nest in the ground or in stems tolerate it better than those that nest in cavities.

Here’s what you can do to help mitigate the effects of heat and drought

Although we can’t instantaneously reduce the heat, we can assist plants and insects to better tolerate these conditions. A very effective strategy is diversifying our green spaces, which can lead to local reductions of heat, either through the shade created by the plants and/or the reduction of the excessive presence of bare soil. In particular, this same plant diversification can also increase the amount and quality of foods available to pollinators during these heat events: more diverse plants mean more different types of possible nectar sources available to pollinators, which in turn would increase their chances of survival and boost their health.

If possible, one can also water plants in our green spaces. By doing this, the water stress will be reduced and at least part of the symptoms displayed by plants will also be mitigated. If one were to do this, it is important to water with a slow flow and for a longer period of time, so the water can properly enter the soil. Along with this, using mulch or letting the fallen leaves cover the ground will also help retain some of the soil humidity, all while also providing shelter to insects.

And besides diversifying and supporting our green spaces, it is thoroughly accepted that the current extreme heat and drought events we are seeing are a consequence of climate change. Starting to reduce our and our communities’ emissions is another way to help plants and pollinators, pollination, and at the end of the day, the production of many of the foods we depend on. You can check out this awesome website by Dr. Sara Via and learn about what we can all do, and even sign up for super informative seminars that help you become familiar with and start acting on some of these topics.

By Anahí Espíndola, Associate Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.

Anahí also writes an Extension Blog in Spanish! Check it out here, 
extensionesp.umd.edu, and please share and spread the word to your Spanish-speaking friends and colleagues in Maryland. ¡Bienvenidos a Extensión en Español!


The Ripeness is All (or Some)

As Dr. Spock famously said about parenting: “Trust yourself. You know more than you think you do.” This is equally true about gardening, even for beginners. People sometimes ask me when they should pick vegetables, as if it was a total mystery, and I generally reply that they’ll know it when they see it, especially if it’s a crop that’s commonly available in markets and grocery stores. If not, a quick online search or a look at the seed packet or catalog may enlighten you. Yours may not achieve the shiny perfection of the catalog models, but it’ll be recognizable. There are exceptions to this easy-to-tell model (melons are notoriously enigmatic) but mostly it’s not so hard.

Being ready to pick and eat, however, is not the same thing as being ripe, and this is a matter of great confusion among even some experienced gardeners, so I’ll plant a few ideas here that might help. Or make you more confused. I don’t know, I can’t think in this heat either.

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