My transition from traditional, large, in-ground, tilled vegetable gardening to container gardening happened out of necessity. In 2015, my husband and I moved from Western Howard County, where we had lived on a large lot with full sun, to the Eastern Shore, with just under an acre and lots of shade/part shade throughout the yard. Most of our full sun and open space was in the front and side yard, both visible from the road. Additionally, we needed to install a sand mound septic system in the limited space we had. This would add further restrictions on what and how we could plant because deep-rooted plantings/tilling are restricted.  We decided that raised beds would be a solution because they would be aesthetically more attractive and could also provide protection from roots interfering with the septic system. 

Installing Raised Beds

Raised beds can be custom-built or purchased as a kit to assemble. We chose to build our own. We started with 4 plots measuring 8’x 5.5’ feet and approximately 1’ deep. The first beds were built using pressure-treated wood. The building material you decide on is a personal choice; they all have their pros and cons. New pressure-treated wood no longer contains arsenic, but we chose to change building materials when adding additional plots. A neighbor had Trex boards from a deck remodel, and we were able to recycle those for the additional plots. We filled the boxes with a mixture of compost (home-grown), leaf pro, horse manure (we live near Assateague), and existing soil. Although our first harvest was slightly disappointing, each year the soil quality improved, as did our vegetable yields. Each year, we typically add compost and manure, but a recent soil test revealed that this practice is creating an imbalance in the soil (too much phosphorus). Annual soil testing of each bed is a beneficial practice for us, and will hopefully improve the quality and quantity of our harvest. Typically, yearly testing isn’t necessary, though.

Adding Containers

After the first year, I realized I wanted more space for herbs and edible flowers, preferably planted closer to the house. We designed 2-foot-high long containers that would surround the existing concrete patio, closing it in. A gate and fire pit completed the design, resulting in the additional benefit of keeping young children and dogs safely away from the water. Because the boxes were so much higher, a barrier was needed to separate the top (1 foot of soil) from the bottom (empty). Our first mistake was not laying landscape fabric on the shelf to prevent the soil from running through the boards when watered. Once we corrected that, the soil remained in place, and the boxes retained water more efficiently. These boxes are beautiful and easily accessible. Because they are so close to the house, they are somewhat protected from winter winds and frost, often allowing greens such as kale, chard, parsley and collards to winter over. Additionally, the height of these gardens prevents animal “snacking” and makes planting and weeding more comfortable. 

Watering

All of the beds require more water than traditional in-ground gardens. We have still not figured out an easy soaker system, but my husband loves to water, so we monitor the beds closely and water as needed. Our goal this summer is to install soaker hoses on the first two beds, utilizing water from a rain barrel nearby. We have added a few more raised beds along the property line where we have access to maximum sunlight but are far from a water source. One contains asparagus plants that require little water (because harvested early in the spring) and the others are used for root vegetables. Eventually, we will try to find a better way of getting water to those gardens as well. 

Limited Space Solutions

The most consistent challenge of container gardening for me has been limited space. Working as a volunteer in a local community garden has allowed me to learn tricks on how to maximize yields by observing the gardening practices of others. I noticed many different ways my fellow gardeners added structures to allow vines to climb. I loved the idea of an arch that would provide a shady pathway through the garden. My husband constructed a 10’ archway using heavy reinforcement wire that was secured to the outer boards of 2 parallel beds. The resulting design was successful! Last year’s cucumber, butternut squash and spaghetti squash plants found their way up and over the arch, producing fruit that dangled from above. Harvesting was made easy and the display was beautiful. 

Container gardens are beneficial in many ways. They can be placed in a variety of spaces throughout the yard and can be dismantled and moved if growing conditions change (increasing shade, for example). Because of the limited square footage in each, weeds are much easier to control. No tilling necessary. If animals are taking too much of your harvest, raised gardens can easily be fenced or built higher to keep plants out of reach. Container gardens can be incorporated into already existing or planned flower beds, creating interest and beauty, as well as expanding pollinator habitat. Although I continue to learn gardening tricks and practices, I have found container gardening to be an ideal solution to growing vegetables year-round here on the eastern shore.  

By: Joan LaHayne, Master Gardener in Worcester County, Maryland.