How to Plant & Care for Bare-Root Shrubs

Annually, our State Forest Tree Nursery grows millions of native trees and shrubs for conservation, reforestation, and residential projects that are sold as bare-root seedlings. Bare-root plants are also commonly sold by online retailers, and available at local plant swaps. Why bare-root seedlings? Some key advantages are that they are less costly to store and transport, quicker to plant, and less likely to spread pests and diseases. Cons are the root systems need to be kept moist and they need to be planted within a short timeframe.

This week, Francis Smith from MD DNR’s State Forest Service helped us plant 140 native bare-root shrubs- (red chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia), black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa), and Canadian serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis) at the Central Maryland Research and Education Center in Clarksville. He shared best practices on how to plant and care for bare-root seedlings.

Storage tips: plant your seedlings within 7 days. Until then, keep the seedlings moist, cool, and dark. A garage or cooler maintained at 33-50 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. A packing or moisture gel such as Terra-Sorb is a convenient way to keep roots hydrated (Fig. 1). Submerging them in water seems intuitive, but is NOT recommended. Also, refrigerators are NOT recommended because they’ve dehumidifying properties that can damage seedlings. 

Photo of a young shrub out of the ground with its roots covered with moisture gel to keep them moist.
Fig. 1: Roots of a Canadian serviceberry seedling stored with a moisture gel

Field Handling & Planting Tips: keep seedlings in a cool, shaded area. Avoid pruning top growth if possible. Francis did recommend pruning roots that were longer than 3-5 inches (Figs. 2 & 3), so the roots will fit into the wedge and to encourage new root growth. You can use a shovel or a handy tool called a planting bar or a dibble bar (Fig 4.). Check out Francis’ 2-minute video ‘How to Plant a Bare Root Seedling’ for instructions on how to create a straight wedge, position roots in the wedge (straight down vs J-roots), and tamping the soil down to avoid air pockets. If mulching, be sure to leave a ring of bare soil around the seedling (Fig. 5), as some materials absorb nitrogen, depriving the seedling of nutrients.

A seedling shrub having its excessively long roots trimmed with garden shears.
Fig. 2: Seedling pre-trim
A seedling shrub showing the root system after trimming excessively long roots.
Fig. 3: Seedling post-trim
A person in a field planting a bare-root shrub seedling with a planting bar.
Fig. 4: Planting bar/dibble bar
Newly planted shrub seedling showing bare soil around the base and a wood chip mulch in a ring 6 inches from the bare soil.
Fig. 5: Bare earth ring around seedling

The beauty of working with bare-root seedlings is that they’re economical, quick to plant, and create minimal soil disturbance, decreasing weed seed brought to the surface. If you have a difficult site or have a large project in mind, this might be an especially good option for you. For more information, check out MD DNR’s ‘Bare Root Seedling Planting Guide.’

By Lisa Kuder, Native Plants and Landscapes Specialist, University of Maryland Extension. See more posts by Lisa.


Leave a Reply