Post-Labor Day, you may be packing up your beach gear and saying an unofficial goodbye to summer, but at least one of the season’s staples is sure to stick around—mosquitoes. With the hottest days of the year behind us, and pleasant autumn temperatures ahead, you may find yourself spending even more time outdoors with mosquitoes than before.
Adult female mosquitoes can generally continue their activities—flying, feeding, laying eggs—in temperatures above 50˚F. The average September temperature here in Maryland over the past five years (2020–2024) was 70.4˚F. You could even continue to be bitten into October, as the recent five-year average temperature was 59.6˚F. It may not be until November, which had an average temperature of 49.1˚F over the past five years, that you will be rid of mosquitoes for the season.
There are many popular methods to repel mosquitoes, often marketed by stores or trending online, that claim to be supported by science, but that don’t really work. Many of these involve plants, and may be especially tempting for gardeners. Before you succumb to the hype, let’s take a look at some common mosquito repellent myths.
Aromatic plants
There are thousands of articles for gardeners that advise planting basil, beebalm, catnip, fennel, garlic, geraniums, lavender, lemon balm, lemongrass, marigolds, mint, rosemary, sage, and more to keep your yard mosquito-free. The idea is that, because mosquitoes use olfactory cues to find you, a heavily perfumed garden will mask your scent and prevent mosquitoes from detecting your presence. Yet, I have been bitten while watering my lemon balm, which is between my catnip and mint.
This myth persists based on assertions that these plants have been proven to repel mosquitoes—but there is a huge caveat. Scientific studies of the repellency of these plants test essential oils applied directly to the skin, not human proximity to a whole plant. Essential oils, the compounds that give the plant its scent, are extracted through pressing, boiling, distilling, filtering, and/or using solvents on the leaves, and are therefore more potent than the scent of a whole, untouched leaf on a live plant. I have searched and have yet to find a single scientific study that tests the efficacy of plants at repelling mosquitoes simply by growing nearby. Personal experience tells me the scent is not strong enough to mask my presence, especially since mosquitoes use additional cues like carbon dioxide exhalation, heat, and movement.
Essential oils
Many plant essential oils do demonstrate repellency when applied directly to human skin, but not as effectively as EPA-approved repellents containing DEET, picaridin, or oil of lemon eucalyptus (which is actually not an essential oil, but an extract that has been refined and enriched for its active ingredient). This is because mosquitoes have multiple chemical receptors that they use to find you, and essential oils block fewer of those receptors and for a shorter amount of time than DEET, picaridin, or oil of lemon eucalyptus. For example, one study found that participants using DEET did not get a single mosquito bite for six hours, while the complete protection time (no bites) of citronella oil was only 10.5 minutes and that of fennel oil was 8.4 minutes. Though the essential oils continued to show some repellency for a couple hours (fewer bites than using no repellent at all), you have to ask yourself if your goal is to be bitten less, or to not be bitten at all. Be warned that repellents containing only essential oils are not regulated the same way by the EPA, and manufacturers may tout the incomplete protection time on the bottles. One study that tested some commercially available repellents containing cedar, citronella, lemongrass, geranium, and peppermint essential oils found that the complete protection times were all below 20 minutes.
Citronella candles
Speaking of citronella, candles promising to repel mosquitoes rely on the same premise as above: the citronella smell will mask your own. This means the same limitations apply: not all of the mosquitoes’ chemical receptors will be blocked, and cues such as carbon dioxide, heat, and movement will still be available. Perhaps that is why one study found that citronella candles had no effect on mosquito attraction to human test subjects.
So, how to enjoy your time outdoors as the weather cools down? Scientifically-backed methods include wearing loose clothing and/or thicker fabrics that cover your arms, legs, and feet, so that mosquitoes can’t reach your skin; applying EPA-approved repellents; and sitting in the path of a fan, as mosquitoes are not very strong fliers and will be blown off-course by the moving air. The American Mosquito Control Association also recommends mosquito coils and Therma-cell devices that release a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide into the air, which can offer a radius of protection so long as it’s not windy; don’t use these in conjunction with a fan, or you will blow your protection away. Ideally, you will pair these repelling tactics with source reduction to prevent large populations of mosquitoes from sharing your outdoor space in the first place.
By Sarah Rothman, Postdoctoral Fellow and Adjunct Faculty in the Department of Environmental Science and Technology at the University of Maryland. Read more by Sarah.
Soldier beetle on the bloom of a golden aster. Photo: Miri Talabac
Q:There are many insects visiting my pollinator garden that look like yellow-orange versions of a firefly. Some of the petals are missing on those flowers. How do I keep them from chewing my plants?
A: These beetles are innocent bystanders and are not the cause of damage, even though that’s where you see them most. These are soldier beetles, and although beetles have chewing mouthparts, soldier beetles are primarily pollinators as adults and predators as larvae.
The pollen and nectar in the blooms of plants in the aster, carrot, and milkweed families are favored, and where you’ll often find them, dining solo or mating. Adults can also eat soft-bodied insects, which include aphids and caterpillars.
Occasionally, you may find a soldier beetle clinging to a flower head by its jaws and dangling with wings spread, dead. This is a work of an entomopathogenic (insect-infecting) fungus, an example of how natural factors impact insect populations, both for species we consider pests and those we consider beneficial.
Soldier beetle larvae hatch from eggs laid in the soil and feed on the eggs and larvae of other insects they encounter. Their prey can include grasshoppers and caterpillars, and these garden helpers are great for suppressing pests like cutworms, corn earworms, and cucumber beetles. The larvae overwinter underground. To provide hunting grounds and shelter from the weather, do not remove the protective blanket of leaf litter and avoid tilling the soil.
Velvety soldier beetle larvae eat many ground and plant-dwelling pests.
If flower petals go missing, another culprit is to blame – probably a chewing insect like Japanese Beetles or Asiatic Garden Beetles, but in some cases, a slug or snail. (Deer and rabbits tend to eat the entire flower head, so their damage tends to be more extensive than just nibbling around the edges.)
Missing its petals doesn’t necessarily ruin a flower’s wildlife value. Tolerate the damage if you can, or find a chemical-free way to discourage feeding. For example, flowers grown for cutting (like dahlias or mums) could be enclosed individually in small mesh bags before they open fully to exclude pests. However, that would deny pollinators access, too.
By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.
Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.
If you thought growing tropical plants like ginger couldn’t be successful in Maryland, think again! Ginger (Zingiber officinale) can be grown throughout the state, including Garrett County! Although it takes a long season to grow, starting it indoors and moving it outside will allow you to have a plentiful supply of ginger to use in savory dishes, baked goods, sweets, and beverages!
Ginger is a tropical plant that requires warmth, humidity, and a growing season of 8 to 10 months. Since winters are too cold and ginger dies below 50°F., it needs to be treated as an annual, and gardeners have even successfully overwintered the plant indoors.
To start growing ginger, make sure you are choosing the correct ginger, culinary ginger rhizomes. They can be purchased from a nursery or grocery store. However, some ginger can be treated with a growth inhibitor at the grocery store. When purchasing the rhizomes, look for nodules along the rhizome where the root is actively trying to grow shoots.
After purchasing the correct ginger, sprout the rhizomes indoors in late winter or early spring. This time period is around 6-8 weeks before the last frost. However, I have found that starting earlier and using a grow light will allow the plant to mature faster. To sprout the rhizomes, soak them overnight in a shallow tray and then place them in a shallow tray or pot with loose, well-draining soil in a warm (70-80°F.) area. Using a warming mat helps speed up the propagation process. Once the ginger has sprouted, transplant it into a large container, at least 12 inches deep. Ginger rhizomes grow horizontally, so the width of the pot is more important than the depth. Using 5-10 gallon grow bags has been very successful in my garden throughout the years I have grown it!
Visible eyes sprouted after several weeks. These will now move into a deeper container under a grow light. Photo credit: Sarah Llewellyn Shoots started in late winter, growing with help from a grow light until warmer weather arrives. Photo credit: Sarah Llewellyn
Once all threats of frost have passed, slowly acclimate the ginger to outdoor conditions. The ginger can remain in the pot, allowing for a longer season because you can move the plant indoors in the fall on cooler days. You can also plant directly in the soil. However, using pots or grow bags does make harvesting the rhizomes much easier at the end of the season.
Throughout the season, keep the soil moist but not soggy and fertilize with a balanced fertilizer (contains roughly equal percentages of nitrogen, Phosphorus, and potassium) monthly. Ginger grows slowly, but you will be able to see leafy growth throughout the summer. It will likely not have a long enough season to flower, but the plant will still produce usable rhizomes. Ginger can be kept at room temperature for a few days, or it can be kept in the refrigerator unpeeled for a month or more. It can be frozen whole, sliced, or minced for long-term storage. It can also be dehydrated for extended storage.
Ginger at season’s end, attempting to grow flowers as it dies off due to cold weather in late October. Photo credit: Sarah Llewellyn
Harvest usually occurs in the fall before frost, typically in late October in Allegany Co. To harvest, use a garden fork to gently lift the plant to separate the rhizomes. If the plant is in a pot, turn it over to remove the whole plant and spray off excess soil. Plants can be overwintered inside, but will become dormant. During dormancy, keep the soil moist and maintain temperatures around 70 degrees. During this dormant period, the plant may lose its leaves, or you can cut them back to the soil level. Growth should resume in early spring when you move the plant back outside after the last frost. Ginger harvested from the garden in late October. These were grown in a 5-gallon grow bag. Photo credit: Sarah Llewellyn
Overall, ginger is a long-season crop, but it can be grown throughout the state with early-season sprouting and can also be prolonged in a greenhouse or brought inside. So, the only thing left is to decide what recipe you will want to use with your fresh ginger!
By Sarah Llewellyn, Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Allegany County, University of Maryland Extension.
Q: I found a group of caterpillars on my blueberry plants. Some branches were completely stripped of leaves. I have several plants around my yard such as milkweed so hope to ID these before taking action to eradicate.
Yellownecked caterpillars feeding on a blueberry bush. Photo credit: Ask Extension
A: These are Yellownecked caterpillars, a native species that can feed on azalea and various other host plants. They won’t cause severe damage to the plant, even if it’s defoliated, by chewing leaves this late into the growing season. However, if you want to remove them, just pluck them off by hand or knock them into a container of soapy water to kill them. (Or, just knock them off into a dry container and toss them elsewhere for birds and other animals to eat. Yellownecked caterpillars are preyed upon by various insects and other animals, so some will be eaten before they mature.
No pesticide is needed in this case, but if they cause problems in a future year, young, smaller caterpillars can be treated with Btk (Bacillus thuringiensis variety kurstaki), a derivative of naturally- occurring soil bacteria that kills caterpillars without harming other insects. Older caterpillars are not as vulnerable to Btk, so if you miss that life stage and only find them when they’re larger (as pictured here), they can be managed with a spinosad application instead. Spinosad is a relatively low-risk insecticide derived from a soil microorganism and approved for use in organic farming. Follow all product label directions for use, and ensure the chosen product can be used on edible plants.
By Miri Talabac, Horticulturist, University of Maryland Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Miri writes the Garden Q&A for The Baltimore Sun and Washington Gardener Magazine. Read more by Miri.
Have a plant or insect question? The University of Maryland Extension has answers! Send your questions and photos to Ask Extension. Our horticulturists are available to answer your questions online, year-round.
If the dog days of summer are making you want to howl at the heat, humidity and lack of rain, you are not alone. Take steps to protect yourself and your plants as you tackle your to-do list.
Your plants are depending on you, so self-care is important. Drink plenty of water. Wear sunscreen and a hat. Work in the early morning if you can and certainly not for too long. Garden in the shade when you can. I’m a human sundial, working around the patches of shade in my yard. And I take frequent breaks to stand, stretch, and hydrate.
I’m mastering the 15-minute garden raid. Water! Weed! Harvest! Deadhead! Your plants need water, too. I can’t say enough about the benefits of good, deep soaks rather than sprinkles. Did you know a mature tomato plant needs 2 to 3 gallons of water weekly? Enough said.
What else needs doing in your garden? Regular harvesting keeps plants productive and avoids the dreaded five-pound zucchini. Harvest tomatoes when they first change color and let them finish ripening indoors to avoid cracking, splitting, and insect and disease problems. Herbs are best harvested before they bloom. My basil is starting to flower, so I’ve begun my annual pesto-making frenzy.
Basil flowers provide nectar and pollen for bees and other beneficial insects. Removing flower heads and pinching off stems above a leaf node stimulates new tender stems and leaves. Gardening is full of tradeoffs! Photo-credit: Jon Traunfeld
There is still time to plant crops like kale, collards, and leafy greens. Use our planting calendar to guide your timing. As you remove crops, consider planting cover crops to cover and improve the soil. Crimson clover, winter rye, and spring oats can be planted from late summer to early fall. Order now to get the best bulbs for fall planting and beat the rush. That also goes for garlic and all those spring flowers we love for their color and cheer.
Mature collard greens in mid-summer. Plants seeds now for a light fall harvest. Protect plants with a row cover over winter and they will re-grow in spring. Photo credit: UME, HGIC
Tidy your plants for appearance and health. Look for browning from drought or disease or the inevitable fungal leaf spots caused by high heat and humidity. Remove affected leaves to reduce the amount of fungal spores. This slows the progression of diseases and reduces the chance of diseases returning next year. Keep removing fallen fruits from under your trees, vines, bushes and vegetables. They can harbor disease and insect pests.
Did you know compost can help suppress soilborne diseases while building healthy soil and helping it hold water? It truly is a five-star soil amendment. To keep your compost pile cooking, add both juicy greens and dry browns. Pile on nitrogen-rich, untreated grass clippings and garden trimmings. Then toss in the carbon-rich leaves falling prematurely in all this heat. Take all the gifts nature gives and recycle them into your soil.
Garden smart in the heat. Be good to yourself. Keep harvesting, watering, planting, tidying, composting, and learning. Then pour something tall and cool and enjoy.
By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. Read more by Annette.
Last year, I accidentally introduced bacterial leaf spot into the pepper beds in my own community garden plot and the Derwood Demo Garden, probably through infected seed. BLS is a common disease of peppers that spreads quickly in warm, humid weather (a.k.a. our summers) and can be devastating to an entire crop, especially in small gardens. Lesions on leaves expand until the foliage drops; lesions on fruits make them unattractive though still edible. Cooler, drier weather (the kind we mostly don’t get) can slow or even stop the disease, but otherwise, the only solution once it really gets going is to pull the plants. Trash them, don’t compost them, because while the disease doesn’t linger long in soil, it can last quite a while in plant debris. This also means that garden cleanup is important. Read more about BLS and how to prevent and manage it here.
People gathered in a field at night around a white sheet illuminated by lights, observing moths and other nocturnal insects. Photo by Madeline E. Potter.
What is mothing, you may ask? Mothing is a form of wildlife observation where you head outside, usually at night, with a light source to attract and observe moths. While it may sound simple, after spending several evenings mothing with family, friends, and colleagues this past week, I was reminded of how joyful and awe-inspiring it can be to slow down and truly notice the natural world around us. A quiet peace comes with tuning into nature at night, and a renewed appreciation for the many species, especially nocturnal ones, that often go unseen in our daily lives.
Pausing for the Small Things: What We Can Find When We Slow Down
If you had told my teenage self I would one day study and teach about insects for a living, I probably would have laughed. Like many people, I did not always see insects as fascinating. As a kid, my parents often took me camping across Maryland, exploring nature trails near our home and hiking through nearby parks. I would spend hours using aquatic nets to find crayfish and dragonfly larvae, snapping photos of ant trails and spider webs, holding cicadas and scarab beetles, and catching butterflies with an insect net.
But as I grew older, that childlike curiosity faded, gradually replaced by fear, likely shaped by the societal norms around me. I learned to scream at spiders in my room and reflexively swat at bees or flies outside. Insects became little more than a nuisance.
Then, passionate educators rekindled that spark during a college course on insect pests of ornamentals and turf. I began to appreciate insects again, this time through the lens of their ecological roles, intricate life cycles, and astonishing morphologies. I will never forget seeing moth and butterfly wings under a microscope for the first time, each scale revealing a world of unexpected beauty and detail. I felt lucky to have access to a lab with microscopes where I could spend many quiet moments observing pinned insects of all kinds under magnification. A part of the course involved creating an insect collection. I found that once you start intentionally looking for different insects around you, you begin to notice them everywhere! These moments and this course brought me full circle, transforming what once seemed hidden and scary into something deeply meaningful and exciting. It was so profound that it set me on a path toward a career in entomology and inspired a personal mission to help others connect with the insect world through positive, safe, and empowering experiences.
Beyond the ecological sciences, I also learned a more personal lesson: sometimes it takes a moment of stillness to notice the tiny wonders that have been there all along. I continue to remind myself of it, especially amid the busyness and chaos of everyday life. I hope you can take a moment today or sometime this weekend to observe a new animal or insect. And if you are feeling curious, take it a step further by using a field guide or online resource to identify what you saw and learn about its biology. You will find that every insect and animal has a story to tell, an evolutionary history, a unique life cycle, complex relationships with plants and animals, and even connections to human culture.
A photo of a geometrid moth on top of a magnified image of one of its front wings, showing intricate details of scales and fine hairs. Photos by Madeline E. Potter.
Mothing: Observing Nighttime Activity and Wildlife
Is mothing the new birding? Mothing is a great way to peer into the world of nocturnal insects and animals. After hosting a couple mothing events this past week with friends, family, and colleagues, I discovered you see much more than moths at night, attracted to artificial lights including scarab beetles, weevils, plant hoppers, rove beetles, parasitic wasps, mayflies, stoneflies, lacewings, caddisflies, and more (depending on the time of year and where you are). This can be a great way to attract and observe these animals up close, especially with magnification like hand lenses or magnifying glasses. For people who are hesitant around insects, it can be a great environment to interact with insects at their own pace (with the forewarning that getting close to a light source at night may result in insects flying around you or landing on you, but headnets and backing away from the light can be helpful).
There is something about going outside at night when things appear to have slowed down, and pausing to see these lesser-seen nighttime animals in action. It can be a great way to discover life in your gardens and green spaces, recording your local diversity. Observing what is present or not present can also help inform your gardening, clueing you into what plants you may want to add to support the present life and the native species that may not be present. Of course, mothing or light traps are not a perfect or complete way to know all that is present in your space, but can be a great place to start, especially since we may only be currently observing daytime (diurnal) life in our gardens.
One of my mothing nights this week was in my parents’ fenced backyard with only ~200 square feet of green space, in a suburban neighborhood with lots of light pollution (see photo below). Even in this space, we observed many different moths, beetles, flies, spiders, and even slugs (great food for immature/larval fireflies). This shows you can observe nocturnal insects just about anywhere, on your apartment balcony, on your porch, in your wooded backyard, you name it. Local parks and groups have also been hosting different mothing events. If you want to look for events around you, they may be listed on the National Moth Week website event map.
Madeline Potter standing beside a light and a white sheet draped over a fence in a suburban backyard at night, set up for observing moths. Photo by Michael J. Potter.
Tips for Mothing
I am not a mothing aficionado, but below are some general tips based on my experiences. The National Moth Week website also has some great mothing 101 tips and video guides for setting up your own mothing station.
Protect Yourself
Wear long sleeves, long pants, long socks, and tall shoes/boots to protect yourself from mosquitoes, ticks, and other biting insects. This also includes wearing insect repellent like Deet, Picaridin, or lemon eucalyptus (age dependent; be sure to read the product label for application directions and safety precautions). A hat, bandana, or head covering can help keep flying insects from landing on your head or getting caught up in your hair. Sometimes the insect activity can be dense near the light source or sheet, so you could also bring nose plugs, ear plugs, and/or headnets for extra protection. Remember to hydrate and bring water and snacks if you will be out for long periods.
Find or Bring a Light
Depending on where you choose to go mothing, you can bring your portable light or find an existing outdoor light source. Be sure you have permission to moth in the area you choose. You do not need a particular light to attract moths (any bright light will do), but research has shown that moths are preferentially attracted to short-wave radiation. Black Light (UV-A; 315-400nm) is preferred among mothing hobbyists and attracts the most insects. I hung up some Black Light bulbs and strips (9-10W, 385-400nm) that attracted lots of different moths and insects.
Hang up a white or light colored sheet
Hanging a white or light-colored sheet near your light source can act as a landing site for moths and provide an excellent, typically contrasting background for moth photography. A sheet can be draped over a sturdy tree branch, fencing, clothes drying rack, photo studio backdrop frame, and more. Be sure to secure your sheet and frame, especially if it is windy.
Sometimes the Later the Better
Different moth and insect species are out at various times of night. Some species specialize in being out only at twilight (dawn or dusk; known as crepuscular species). You can try mothing at any time of night, but if you wish to see a lot of different nighttime species, typically the later into the night you go out, the better. I went out around 11 pm or midnight the past couple mothing trips (July). Of course, this depends on the time of year and your location but be prepared to see different species and amounts of insects at various times of night. If you can set up your mothing station and periodically check on it throughout the night, that could be a tactic. It all depends on your preferences. Another option is to set up a “moth hotel” (filling a box with egg cartons, placing a funnel over the mouth of the box, and then putting a light on top of that), something you can put out all night and check to see what moth guests you have in the morning. Remember to release your moths before the hotel becomes a buffet for daytime wildlife.
Respect the Space and the Animals
As with any wildlife observation, we want to respect the animals. With moths, their wings are delicate and are covered in powdery scales. As fuzzy as they may seem, you should avoid poking or touching moths, particularly their wings. If you discover any nearby caterpillars, avoid touching them as some have stinging hairs that can be quite painful and sometimes lead to allergic reactions. I have heard a saying: “If it’s fuzzy, no touchy!” We can get close to moths, as it can be fun to spot their coiled “tongue” (proboscis) that will sometimes be unraveled and probe the sheet or surface they are on. Consider bringing extra lights, flashlights, magnifying glasses, and hand lenses for a closer look. There will also likely be many other tiny insects near the light source or on the sheet, particularly small parasitic wasps, beetles, plant hoppers, and more. An excellent time for an up-close look at a tiny world!
If you are in a space that is not your own, remember to clean up after you are done mothing, and respect the other rules the space may have (regarding noise, prohibited areas, prohibited items, etc.). As the saying goes, “leave it [the space] better than you found it.” Remember to turn off any lights you brought so that attracted moths and animals can carry on. One dilemma I have found is getting moths and other insects off the sheet when done observing them, as some will cling on. You can either leave the sheet out until morning, as many insects will typically carry on once your light is off and the sun rises, or you can grab a peer and both take either ends of the sheet, shake off, and encourage insects to fly away. Be mindful of insects that may have found their way between folds in the sheet.
If you have any mothing tips, please let us know in the comments below!
A graphic featuring six labeled photos of different moth species observed by Madeline Potter during a July 2025 mothing event in Maryland. Photos by Madeline E. Potter.
Maryland’s Moths: Identification, Participatory Science, and Colorful Species
Maryland is home to over 2,600 moth species. That is over 17 times the number of butterfly species in Maryland (~150+)! With all this diversity, there are some unique and colorful species to discover while mothing. Moth identification is not always easy, as some identifications require looking at vein patterns in their wings, but luckily, a large community of experts can help. After taking moth photos, you can upload them to a participatory science project or data sharing website like iNaturalist.org. On iNaturalist, artificial intelligence (A.I.) can provide starting identification suggestions, and real people can comment on your photo with their moth identification. I find it fun to see what the iNaturalist A.I. suggests and then dive into my copy of Peterson Field Guide to Moths of Northeastern America to check the identification. Sometimes we can only identify the moth to a broader group (vs. a particular species) based on the features seen in the photo(s). There are many resources online for tips on nighttime moth photography if you want to learn more. I have had some decent results for some basic photos using a flashlight and my cell phone. As long as the photo is not too blurry, your moth photos are valuable data on local moth diversity! For iNaturalist, photos can be uploaded on a computer, through their website, or one of their smartphone apps.
To combat the notion that moths are drab or boring, I have put together some example colorful moth species graphics that can be found in Maryland (grouped by moth family); find these graphics linked here or on our Facebook or Instagram pages. Do you have a favorite moth species?
Supporting Moths and Nocturnal Insects
There are many ways to support our local moths and other beneficial insects, including: Reducing outdoor chemical use (pesticides, herbicides, fungicides) Planting a diversity of native plant speciesappropriate for your region and the planting space (sun, soil, and water conditions) Prioritizing keystone plant species (plant species that are especially important for supporting wildlife), including native oaks, maples, willows, birches, poplars, pines, and wild cherry trees Intentionally selecting plant species that support our specialist moths and their caterpillars (can only feed on one or a small group of plant species), such as the native milkweed tussock moth (Euchaetes egle) whose caterpillars only feed on milkweed (Asclepias spp) or dogbane (Apocynum spp.) plants. Including nighttime blooming flowers in our pollinator gardens, like common evening primrose (Oenothera biennis). Opting for motion-activated or dimmed outdoor nighttime lights to reduce light pollution that can disorient and negatively impacts moths and other nocturnal animals Avoiding outdoor bug zappers (electric traps) that have been shown by researchers, Timothy Frick and Douglas Talamy, to not effectively manage biting insects but instead kill many beneficial moths, beetles, and more. Leave the leaves each fall through late spring as many native moths, butterflies, parasitic wasps and more will spend the winter (in one of their life stages– pupal stage, caterpillar stage, etc.) in leaf litter to survive the harsh climate and emerge the following spring. See this recent research paper to learn more about the impacts of removing leaves in residential yards. Spreading the word by teaching our peers the importance of moths and other insects and the many sustainable actions we can take to support them and the vital services they provide us (pollination, nutrient cycling, decomposition, natural pest control, and food provision for other animals). A Luna moth cocoon nestled in leaf litter, constructed from leaves and other materials. Photo by M.J. Raupp.
Let’s shine a light on moths this week and beyond, to better support and understand these important animals! Happy Mothing!
By Madeline E. Potter, M.S., Faculty Specialist for Entomology and Integrated Pest Management, University of Maryland Extension
