April 2020 – Maryland Grows

Gardens Create Beauty, Food, and Hope

April 24, 2020May 20, 2020Maryland GrowsLeave a comment

*Washington County Master Gardener Jessica Lantz tends a butterfly garden.*

Fresh air. Sunshine. The smell of warm earth. The feel of tender leaves. The honest sweat of work. The imagining of tastes, fragrance, and beauty to come.

How could gardening be anything but therapeutic?

We who delight in plunging our hands in the soil, tucking in seeds and plants and gently tending them know that gardening feeds the body and soul. And a little soul-feeding is just what we need right now.

Actress Helen Hayes said, “All through the long winter, I dream of my garden. On the first day of spring, I dig my fingers deep into the soft earth. I can feel its energy and my spirits soar.”

So if you’ve never planted a seed, grown flowers for your table, or eaten something you’ve grown, jump in. Now. You will feel better.

And if you’re an old hand – meaning experienced, not decrepit – get out there. Times a wastin’.

A new friend showed me her new raised beds with such pride this week. An old friend showed me his newly renovated raised beds with the same amount of pride. This is what we do. And it helps.

It’s a simple equation. Seeds plus soil plus sun and water equal plants. But there is something miraculous, nevertheless, in the alchemy of it all.

Every time I watch one of those time lapse videos of a lima bean sprouting, it is marvelous and I catch myself smiling. Go on, now. Go look one up.

Growth itself is a miracle that connects us. Man is a hunter-gatherer. Gardening is gathering, a means to harvest. So when we dip a trowel in the soil we are perpetuating a practice that dates back eons.

And we garden not just to feed ourselves, but to create beauty. A pond brimming with water lotus at the gardens at Chanticleer brought tears to my eyes as did Monet’s water lilies at Giverny.

But I take the same delight in the cottage garden of a friend, in the daffodils on my table, and in the wildflowers sprinkled along my favorite hiking trail. This beauty is a gift which I receive gratefully.

And when we consciously add beauty with flowers, meadows, trees, we are answering a deep need to create and contribute. Not just for ourselves, but for everyone who might see our gardens.

John Muir once said, “One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.”

When asked why he was planting small tree seedlings, an older gardener smiled and said, “These are for my children and my children’s children.”

That’s the other connection gardens give us: a connection to others. A garden shared is a true garden, whether you are sharing advice or bounty, seeds or seedlings, a plant or spontaneous garden tour.

In giving, we receive.

The best gardens are echoes of all the friends and family who contributed to them and took joy in them. Garden walks then become visits with those held dear, past and present.

So dig, plant, and share. It’s hope you are spreading and we need that most of all.

By Annette Cormany, Principal Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Washington County, University of Maryland Extension. This article was previously published by Herald-Mail Media.

Carpenter bees are native pollinators

April 22, 2020September 16, 2022Maryland Grows3 Comments

carpenter bee on redbud flowers — *Carpenter bee (Xylocopa virginica) on an Eastern redbud tree. Photo: Allen Szalanski, Bugwood.org*

A sure sign of spring is the emergence of carpenter bees. Have you seen the perfectly circular small holes that these bees chew into wood? I mean honestly, I have trouble drawing a perfect circle freehand, much less chewing one!

Adult carpenter bees spend the winter hanging out in their nesting site, just waiting for the first signs of spring when they will emerge, find pollen for food, and mate. Nesting sites/holes are most often seen under the eaves of buildings, particularly on unpainted wood. Every spring, we have carpenter bees infesting the eaves of our barn.

carpenter bee holes in wood — *Holes made by carpenter bees. Photo: Ashley Bodkins*

People often confuse carpenter bees for bumble bees, but there are some distinct differences between these two types of bees, including nesting locations. Bumble bees live in a social hive whereas carpenter bees are solitary, and a carpenter bee has an abdomen that is shiny black, not hairy.

Carpenter bees are native pollinators, are not aggressive, and are only noticeable in late spring-early summer. They are mostly found around structures made of wood, or around facia trim, beams, etc.

Male carpenter bees often cause alarm when they dive-bomb and fly erratically around humans that approach nesting sites, but in actuality, these bees are bluffing as they lack a stinger and are harmless. They can be identified easily by the white spot on the front of their heads.

Only female bees have a stinger, which is a modified egg-laying device (ovipositor). Female carpenter bees are docile and are reported to sting only if handled, but a female carpenter bee can sting more than once.

Carpenter bees do not consume wood, but they do create their nesting sites in wood. They feed on pollen and nectar and are important plant pollinators. Their large size allows them to pollinate some flowers that are unsuitable to smaller bees.

carpenter bee collecting pollen — *Carpenter bees are important native pollinators. Note the shiny black abdomen, a characteristic that differentiates them from bumble bees. Photo: Ansel Oommen, Bugwood.org*

Female carpenter bees use their strong jaws (mandibles) to chew a perfect circle entrance hole and make a small chamber that will become her home. The entrance is a little less than a half-inch wide, close to the same diameter as her body. These channels that she chews are perpendicular to the grain of the wood. Then they will turn about 90 degrees and excavate along the wood grain for 4 to 6 inches to create a gallery (tunnel). It takes approximately 6 days to bore one inch into the wood.

Female carpenter bees build several cells within each tunnel and each cell contains one egg and enough food for the larva that will hatch. The food, called bee bread, is a mixture of pollen and plant nectar. She places the food into the tunnel, lays a single egg on it, and builds a partition in the tunnel with cemented wood particles. Each tunnel contains 6 to 10 cells.

Control of carpenter bees may be desired if there is significant damage to wooden structures. But be aware, carpenter bees do not cause major damage like termites, and again, they are important native pollinators.

If control is desired, you can apply a registered insecticide into the entrance holes. Then the holes should be sealed thoroughly with wood putty or caulking compound. If possible, filling the entire tunnel system with a sealant can also be effective. All exposed wood surfaces should be painted or varnished and sealed. When managing carpenter bees, it may be helpful to treat and seal entrance holes during the early morning or late evening when bees are less active. Additional management options are offered by West Virginia University Extension.

References and Resources

https://extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/pests/carpenter-bee

https://extension2.missouri.edu/g7424

https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-2074

By Ashley Bodkins, Senior Agent Associate and Master Gardener Coordinator, Garrett County, Maryland, and Christa K. Carignan, Coordinator, Home and Garden Information Center, University of Maryland Extension. See more posts by Ashley and Christa.

Hey new vegetable gardener: some things you can expect…

April 17, 2020March 18, 2022Maryland Grows2 Comments

Welcome to the ranks of Maryland food gardeners. We live in every zip code and grow food in buckets on rooftops, in community garden plots, in front and back yards, and in large rural gardens. Rest assured, you will sweat and toil, learn a ton, have fun, and put delicious, fresh food on the table. You probably have hopes and dreams for your new garden, and that is great. But you also need to adjust your expectations to realities, notably Mother Nature.

For a variety of reasons, your crops will not always resemble those pictured in seed catalogs (you may even come to believe you are growing an entirely different plant species). You will learn that “doing everything right” doesn’t guarantee success with every crop, every year. Insect pests, diseases, or a little neglect at the wrong time, will reduce productivity, create teachable moments, and increase your respect for farmers.

Are there “best beginner crops”?

Bush bean, tomato, cucumber, pepper, summer squash, and leafy greens (lettuce, arugula, Swiss chard, kale, mustard, etc.) are good starter crops, although they have their share of pest problems. (You will need to grow or buy tomato and pepper transplants; seeds of the other crops can be planted directly in garden soil.) Other crops may be more challenging. For example, they may require more room, such as winter squash and sweet potato, or a more permanent space, like asparagus and horseradish (perennials that live year-to-year).

It is always a safe bet to start small and plant what you like to eat and have the space and time to grow.

What to expect in terms of appearance and growth?

First, learn about each crop you plan to grow- its appearance, mature size, growth habit, requirements for sunlight, water, and nutrients, and major pest problems. If you give your plants what they need you can match or exceed the per plant yields of nearby farmers!
In general, be prepared to accept some level of injury and imperfection. You will see leaves with some spots, holes, or brown edges, on even on the healthiest plants. That’s ok- you probably don’t need to worry or take action, other than continue to monitor plants.

Leaves with chewed holes — Beetles chewed holes in these bean leaves but the damage can be ignored; it will not reduce the harvest from these healthy plants.

Vegetable plant problems are often blamed on insects and diseases, but can more often be traced to weather extremes, compacted or infertile soil, weeds, human neglect, or lack of sunlight or room to grow. Improving the soil with 2-4 inches of compost will go a long way to ensuring healthy plants.
Variable spring weather (high wind, wide temperature swings, periods of cool, wet weather) can beat up tender seedlings, especially transplants that led a pampered early life in a greenhouse or basement. Healthy plants will grow out of the injury.

In March and April, you may also find that seeds don’t germinate or seedlings just “sit there” due to low soil temperature. Check the soil temperature requirements for your spring crops and enter your zip code in this app to see if your soil is warm enough.
Find out when to expect the last frost and first frost.
Unless you are very lucky (or live far away from other vegetable gardens and farms), expect to encounter an array of insect pests and disease problems. We have information and techniques to help you prevent problems, such as selecting disease-resistant cultivars, spacing plants for good air circulation, handpicking pest insects, planting to attract beneficial insects, and excluding pests with fences and floating row covers.

When do I start harvesting? When should I remove plants?

Most vegetable crops are either annuals or biennials. With annuals, like bean, tomato, and cucumber, seeds germinate, and plants grow, flower, fruit, and die during one growing season. Biennials, like beet, kale, and carrot, have a two-year life cycle but are treated as annuals in most Maryland gardens. In either case, even well-grown crops do not live and produce forever!

Chewed up kale — This productive Tuscan kale plant is showing the wear and tear of a long growing season. Caterpillars have chewed some holes and the oldest leaves are beginning to yellow and die.

HGIC has information on harvesting 33 different vegetables. For fruiting crops, like bean, cucumber, and eggplant, pick fruits before they reach full-size to encourage continued flower and fruit development. Allowing seeds to mature inside fruits will signal the plant that it has accomplished its reproductive mission and can slow down and die.

Some first-time gardeners are surprised and disappointed that their vegetable plants “play out” over time, declining in vigor, quality, and productivity over time. This is natural and varies by crop, cultivar, and growing conditions. For example, leaf lettuce from a single spring planting may be harvested for two weeks or so before it becomes bitter or starts to produce flower stalks.

Root crops, like radish, beet, and onion, are usually harvested just a few times, since one planting will mature at roughly the same time. Summer squash and cucumber fruits are typically harvested for 3-6 weeks before insect and disease problems reduce plant vigor and fruit production.

A 10 ft. row of bush beans will produce 4-8 lbs. of beans over a 2-3 week period. Pole beans require some type of support but can produce beans for many weeks, far out-yielding bush beans. Tomato, pepper, and eggplant produce fruits from mid-summer until the first frost, although fruit quality declines after September.

‘Fortex’ pole bean can produce high yields over a long harvesting season.

Pull out plants when they are declining due to age or significant injury by insect pests, diseases, storms, wildlife, etc. and re-plant the area. The same holds true for undersize plants that languish for weeks without making much growth. There is really no such thing as emergency plant care. Pull them out and try to figure out what happened and learn from it so you can succeed the next time.

Good luck, new gardening friends. We are here to help and take care of each other and our planet.

By Jon Traunfeld, Extension Specialist. Read more by Jon.

Gone With The Wind: A Look at Wind Pollination

April 13, 2020Maryland Grows4 Comments

The spring is here, and it seems that all the trees in my neighborhood have finally woken up and entered some sort of tree beauty contest. Some of them, like the cherries, crabapples, and Eastern redbuds have been showing off their beautiful flowers for a while now, and it’s true that they are impressive and that the pollinators are responding to the call. Others, like the oak trees in front of my house are a bit more “introvert” than their showy neighbors and have instead presented their own flowers in a different, less-spectacular but not less-efficient way.

Today’s post is going to be my small honor to the beauty of introverts. Join me in exploring how being low-key in the flower world can be a great strategy for reproducing, and how you can learn how a plant reproduces by paying attention to the shape of its flowers. Let’s talk about wind pollination!

flowering trees — Some of my neighborhood trees are very showy right now, like the crab apple and the redbuds (on the left) around my house, while some others seem to be more “introverted”, like my oak trees (on the right). Photos: crab apple and redbud: A. Espíndola; oak tree: D. Mullen.

What is wind pollination?

Even though when we think of pollination, we usually think of pretty flowers and cute pollinators who come get that sweet nectar, a very large number of plants do not use animal pollination to reproduce. In fact, they instead use wind to disperse their pollen and reach their female counterparts. (See more about how this works in my previous post about plant reproduction.)

In the vast majority of these plants, female and male flowers are either on different plants or on different parts of the same plant, with the male flowers usually grouped in hanging or “grape-like” structures (those catkins!). These elongated structures are extremely fit for their function. Being long and hanging, they are readily shaken by air currents, quickly releasing their pollen into the wind. Once in the air, that pollen will travel sometimes extremely long distances to reach the female flowers, which is facilitated by the pollen grain’s light weight.

oak catkin — *Oak catkins. Photo: Dan Mullen*

Even though this strategy is very efficient in dispersing a lot of pollen over very long distances and avoids the energy cost of having to produce special rewards to attract pollinators, it works best under specific circumstances. For instance, it works best in places that are drier than not (pollen won’t travel well if it rains all the time), and in places that are not so densely inhabited that there is no way for pollen to move or reach the right female flower (a female flower of the same species). These are in fact some of the reasons why wind pollination is so rare in tropical rain forests.

grass pollen — *Wind-pollinated plants can be recognized by their hanging anthers or flowers, like the grass in this photo. Photo H. Rose*

What plants use wind pollination?

This type of pollination mode is present in most conifers and grasses, and in many flowering plants. In fact, I invite you to just look around your house and pay attention to the plants surrounding it. I promise you that if you look carefully on your grasses you will see their tiny hanging anthers, or if you check any hazelnut, willow, birch, or oak tree close to your window or yard you will see the long catkins hanging from the branches. If you can reach them, you should even try gently shaking them and see for yourself how the most minimal movement makes the plant release all that pollen. Oh, and if you like pecan and walnut pies, know that the wonderful nuts these plants produce are actually formed thanks to wind pollination! (Check out my article from last Thanksgiving!)

Is this why all that yellow powder is all over the place in the spring?

Yes! You may have realized that during the spring months, any pond, lake, car, or other surface that is exposed gets completely covered in yellow powder. Virtually all this powder/pollen comes from these wind-pollinated plants. Unfortunately for the plant, the pollen you see will likely not reach a female flower. Luckily for the plants, they do produce a lot (and I mean A LOT) of pollen because pollen production in these plants has evolved to produce sufficient pollen so that enough of it reaches the females.

pollen on water in a rain barrel — *Pollen from wind-pollinated plants ends up on all surfaces, like here in my rain barrel. Note both the yellow layer on the water and on the side of the barrel in the background! Photo: A. Espíndola.*

If pollen is released mostly during the growing season, is this why pollen allergies are seasonal?

Again, yes! The plant species that produce seasonal allergies are wind-pollinated, and that is why you have allergies only during the time they are flowering. As a matter of fact, if you have pollen allergies, you may have realized that certain seasons are worse than others, and you may even know what species you are allergic to. Today, there are a lot of tools to know what species are flowering and when you would expect to start having seasonal allergies. For example, check out this online allergy map where you can see what species are releasing pollen in “real-time” across the country and close to your house.

By Anahí Espíndola, Assistant Professor, Department of Entomology, University of Maryland, College Park. See more posts by Anahí.

Orchid Care: Consistency Is Key

April 6, 2020October 26, 2022Maryland Grows3 Comments

Phalaenopsis — Creating an environment that mimics an orchid’s native habitat will ensure plentiful blooms. To thrive, each orchid needs the right spot. Check your orchid’s individual profile. Photo: Rachel Rhodes

My love affair with orchids began in college. It was the winter of 2007 while in Belize for a winter semester class “Tropical Agriculture, Conservation, and Ecosystems.” Sitting along the tranquil headwaters of the Bladen River, our guide detailed the dynamic relationship of the ecosystem that surrounded us.

In the heart of the rainforest, the delicate balance of our environment beats like a drum. As our guide described the four layers of the rainforest from the emergent layer, to the canopy layer, to the understory, and the forest floor, birds chirped and vivid blue morpho butterflies fluttered around. Our guide pointed above us to the most beautiful mesmerizing orchid I had ever seen; the black orchid.

The black orchid gently dangled off the leaning tree beside us, its greenish-yellow petals and sepals had the most beautiful purple blotches near the base. While the “lip” was shaped like the valve of a clamshell, it was deep purple to black and radiated with purple veins. I had never encountered such a fascinating flower.

After the class ended, I dove headfirst into all things orchids to absorb as much information as I could. The orchid family boasts some of the most extraordinary and diverse flowers in the plant kingdom, with around 30,000 species and 120,000 hybrids.

Generally, orchids are divided into two groups; epiphytic and terrestrial. Epiphytic orchids are usually the orchid we most frequently see (Phalaenopis and Cattleya). Epiphytic orchids use their tough roots to anchor themselves to trees. They receive nutrients from rainwater and leaf debris and they absorb moisture from the air. Terrestrial orchids grow with their roots in the ground. They are most commonly found in grasslands or boggy areas. Understanding the type of orchid you have, their growing conditions, light requirements and flowering season is integral in ensuring your success.

After much trial and error, I have learned a few things. With orchids, consistency is key. A majority of our orchids such as Phalaenopsis only bloom once a year in late winter through early spring (January to March). Getting them to rebloom is the ultimate prize as a gardener. The best way to encourage flowering is make sure that you have the proper lightening, ample water, and the right amount of food.

First, getting the light right is one of the most important factors. Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum like morning light from an east-facing window. This provides an orchid with a few hours of direct sunlight without hurting the plant. The sun can be very damaging to the leaves of an orchid, so the right placement is key. If you do not have an east-facing window, you can make other spots work by following these principals. North facing windows simply do not provide enough light to sustain the healthy growth of an orchid. If this is your only option, you will need a grow light to give your orchid the boost of light it needs. If your orchid is in a west-facing window put up a sheer curtain to protect it from the heat of the summer sun. Furthermore, if using a south facing window a sheer curtain is advisable year round. Unlike Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum, Cattleya like bright light from a south or west facing window.

applying water to orchid roots — Water your orchid once a week. Make sure that you take it out of its decorative pot, leaving it in its plastic container. Run water over the roots for a few minutes avoiding the leaves. Allow the plant to air out for a while before putting it back into its decorative container. Photo: Rachel Rhodes

Just as getting the right lighting is crucial so is watering. When watering your orchids, always water in the morning. This guarantees that the moisture has time to evaporate. If you water at night, it allows water to settle in the nooks of the bark, which promotes fungal growth. Avoid watering or misting the leaves. Misting tricks the guard cells on the leaves to think that the humidity is higher than it actually is. This can cause your orchid to dry out faster. Additionally it can lead to crown rot if water settles in the nooks of the leaves. Orchids love humidity. To increase humidity you can use a humidifier set at 40-50% or use a humidity tray.

mealybugs on orchid buds — Mealybugs are a common orchid pest, especially on moth orchids (Phalaenopsis).They are little white fluffy insects that are closely related to scale insects. They love new growth and flowers. Unlike scales, mealybugs wander in search of feeding places. They damage the overall vigor of the plant, weakening it and causing the loss of leaves, buds, and flowers. Photo: Rachel Rhodes

All plants require nutrients to grow and thrive. Epiphytic orchids like Phalaenopsis live in trees where they receive nutrients from rainwater and leaf debris. Pot-grown orchids depend on feedings to produce healthy leaves and beautiful blooms. With proper feedings, a well-fertilized orchid will keep their leaves longer and will produce more flowers. When feeding, it’s best to use orchid-specific fertilizers. Orchids also thrive from “weakly weekly” feedings when blooming by diluting fertilizer to ¼ strength rather than a full dose once a month.

By Rachel J. Rhodes, Master Gardener Coordinator, Queen Anne’s County, Maryland, University of Maryland Extension. Follow the Queen Anne’s County Master Gardeners on Facebook. Visit the UME Master Gardener webpage to find Master Gardener events and services in your county/city.

April Tips and Tasks

April 1, 2020October 19, 2022Maryland Grows1 Comment

Butterfly on Milkweed — Black Hill Butterfly Habitat

Plant a butterfly garden – Butterflies add beauty and help pollinate flowering plants. A variety of nectar plants for adult butterflies and host plants (food) for the caterpillars will attract them. Milkweed species is a popular nectar and host plant for the Monarch butterfly.

Lawn mowing season begins in April. The height and how frequently you mow your lawn is very important. Cool season grasses such as tall fescue and bluegrass should be maintained between 3 – 4 inches for most of the growing season and no more than 1/3rd of the leaf blade should be removed at each mowing.

Fungus gnats are small, harmless black flies that hover around, breed in and feed on moist growing media. Be careful not to over-water houseplants. Growing media should be allowed to dry out before watering again.

“Harden-off” transplants one week prior to transplanting to toughen the plants and ready them for outdoor conditions.

See more April Tips & Tasks on the HGIC website.

Maryland Grows

UMD Extension Home and Garden Information Center Blog

Month: April 2020